Cable - Cargo Bed Light - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
2004 Ultra Violet
Cable - Cargo Bed Light

The light in my bed cover has never worked since I purchased the vehicle earlier this year. Nice day today so thought I'd investigate. Discovered what would have been obvious to an experienced owner is the cable running up into the carpeted cover is missing (see picture). Further investigation, the ERK option for the bed cover wasn't an option for my truck. I assume the previous owner added it after the fact. Oddly enough, there was a 15amp fuse in slot 40, which I have pulled, but assume he neglected to add or run the cable.

Questions:
1) I read somewhere that the cable exists for all SSRs, is hidden in the vehicle for those w/o the option???
2) Alternatively, could I run my own wiring from the source up to the light???
3) Final question, where would I find the source if I elect to run my own wire???

Information, suggestions and recommendations welcomed.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 04:27 PM
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2004 in Black and now 2005 in Black, what a pair
1) I read the same thing but my 04 did not have a carpet kit in it from the factory, and it did not have the wires for the light either. When I got my carpet kit I got the wire harness with it.
2) It might be possible with new terminal ends. I think I took pictures of the harness before I put it in my truck. I will see if I can find them.
3) The wires go to the drivers side rear bumper area, not easy to get to. I pulled the rear inner wheel well plastic and it was still not easy to get to. It would be easy if you removed the rear bumper cover but I was not going to do that. There are 3 torques screws that hold the box in place and you have to loosen them to get the box out away from the body to pull the wires through.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 04:33 PM
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Cargo Lamp Harness

SSRs without the ERK option (carpeted bed liner) do have an electrical harness that runs from the left lid hinge bracket to a connector located adjacent to the bed actuator release mechanism box behind the left rear fender. That harness contains green and black wires for the switch that indicates whether or not a bed cover is present and a red/black wire to indicate whether the bed cover is ajar. A modified version of this harness exists for SSRs with the ERK carpeted bed option. The modified version of this harness adds the orange power feed for the bed cover lamp as well as an additional pin for this power feed to the harness connector near the bed actuator box. The chassis side harness connector contains four pins to provide connectivity for all these functions.

In order to make a seamless connection to the factory bed lamp, the round AMP/CRC connector with three pins would be required and wired/spliced into a non-ERK harness. Through some research I have found distributors for these types of connectors but have not pursued an inquiry on the availability or price of the specific three-pin size and configuration required to match the factory AMP/CRC connector.

So it would be possible to modify the non-ERK harness to work but the AMP connector is a limiting factor. Modifying the bed lamp connector at the lid to accept a different and more commonly available three-pin connector like a Weatherpack would be an option should you choose to go that route.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snomuncher View Post
SSRs without the ERK option (carpeted bed liner) do have an electrical harness that runs from the left lid hinge bracket to a connector located adjacent to the bed actuator release mechanism box behind the left rear fender. That harness contains green and black wires for the switch that indicates whether or not a bed cover is present and a red/black wire to indicate whether the bed cover is ajar. A modified version of this harness exists for SSRs with the ERK carpeted bed option. The modified version of this harness adds the orange power feed for the bed cover lamp as well as an additional pin for this power feed to the harness connector near the bed actuator box. The chassis side harness connector contains four pins to provide connectivity for all these functions.

In order to make a seamless connection to the factory bed lamp, the round AMP/CRC connector with three pins would be required and wired/spliced into a non-ERK harness. Through some research I have found distributors for these types of connectors but have not pursued an inquiry on the availability or price of the specific three-pin size and configuration required to match the factory AMP/CRC connector.

So it would be possible to modify the non-ERK harness to work but the AMP connector is a limiting factor. Modifying the bed lamp connector at the lid to accept a different and more commonly available three-pin connector like a Weatherpack would be an option should you choose to go that route.
Thanks for the very detailed description of the circuitry and the issue with attempting to utilize the existing non-ERK cable. I'll give all of this some thought, but my initial idea is to install a separate limit switch to capture lid open status, possibly picking up power from the right rear outlet (assuming that is alive when the key is off?) and route that up to the light. Another idea might be to utilize the current limit switch, but I'm hesitant to muck with existing circuitry.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by People Eater View Post
Thanks for the very detailed description of the circuitry and the issue with attempting to utilize the existing non-ERK cable. I'll give all of this some thought, but my initial idea is to install a separate limit switch to capture lid open status, possibly picking up power from the right rear outlet (assuming that is alive when the key is off?) and route that up to the light. Another idea might be to utilize the current limit switch, but I'm hesitant to muck with existing circuitry.
remember it is npt just the light but the RDM that needs to know when the bed cover is ajar so you cannot open the top and have interference/damage.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:42 PM
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Although it is not on my web site yet, I have finished the repair kit for the burned-up connector and circuit board. When I get a few built up and identify my exact costs, I will have a price for the kit. Part of that kit is a connector and wiring......

If you need a connector, pins and wires, just let me know and Iíll help you out. I have about 30 of the connectors on hand and will be putting the kits together in the coming week......

When done, Iíll be announcing the kit formally on the forum and have it on my web site. If you want to get a connector set from me, Just contact me at [email protected]

Regards,

Mike

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by People Eater View Post
Thanks for the very detailed description of the circuitry and the issue with attempting to utilize the existing non-ERK cable. I'll give all of this some thought, but my initial idea is to install a separate limit switch to capture lid open status, possibly picking up power from the right rear outlet (assuming that is alive when the key is off?) and route that up to the light. Another idea might be to utilize the current limit switch, but I'm hesitant to muck with existing circuitry.
If you plan to use a separate power source for the light, you might want to also consider a much simpler solution that does not utilize the existing factory light circuitry at all. Adapt and install a different LED light to the cavity in the bed cover, along with a tilt switch, that is both fused to your power source and grounded, just like many previous generations of auto and truck underhood lights that operate only when the hood is raised. With a solution like this you do not need to disturb the existing factory harness. Because of the constant live 12 volt feed you will not have the shutoff feature of retained accessory power available with this solution.

The 12 volt power outlet in the right rear of the bed is live with the key off.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by snomuncher View Post
If you plan to use a separate power source for the light, you might want to also consider a much simpler solution that does not utilize the existing factory light circuitry at all. Adapt and install a different LED light to the cavity in the bed cover, along with a tilt switch, thathe t is both fused to your power source and grounded, just like many previous generations of auto and truck underhood lights that operate only when the hood is raised. With a solution like this you do not need to disturb the existing factory harness. Because of the constant live 12 volt feed you will not have the shutoff feature of retained accessory power available with this solution.
The 12 volt power outlet in the right rear of the bed is live with the key off.
snomuncher, excellent idea, a mercury switch will eliminate a lot of hassle of adding a limit switch as I was thinking. A far more subtle, out of the way solution, I like it. Pondering now a cable housing to run from the bed up into the cover. Would need to be flexible, yet firm enough to stay out of the way of the hinges, etc. Thanks again, a tilt switch is an ideal solution. Jerry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
Although it is not on my web site yet, I have finished the repair kit for the burned-up connector and circuit board. When I get a few built up and identify my exact costs, I will have a price for the kit. Part of that kit is a connector and wiring......

If you need a connector, pins and wires, just let me know and I’ll help you out. I have about 30 of the connectors on hand and will be putting the kits together in the coming week......

When done, I’ll be announcing the kit formally on the forum and have it on my web site. If you want to get a connector set from me, Just contact me at [email protected]

Regards, Mike
Mike, I've traded emails with you a couple of times, never met, but I picture you wearing a cape. I'm going to do some further investigation, right now my thinking is running a separate power source up into the cover might be the simplest solution. I'll play around with that, but might be back to you. Thanks for always (it seems) having a solution to our problems. Jerry
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 10:04 AM
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Mike, I've traded emails with you a couple of times, never met, but I picture you wearing a cape. Jerry
Yes, you are correct, he has a cape but we rarely see it since the dearth of phone booths these days.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:55 AM
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Cable Conduit

Pondering now a cable housing to run from the bed up into the cover. Would need to be flexible, yet firm enough to stay out of the way of the hinges, etc.

Flexible cable conduit like that shown in the attached link would work well in your proposed application.



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