Chevy SSR wonít start - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Chevy SSR wonít start

I havenít checked my ignition switch but from all that I have read I have another problem aside of just cranking and not starting, if the truck is running 1 why would it died while driving and 2 on park while Iím vacuum my R?

The first time my R didnít start I was parked on the street and asked my friends to push me to a parking lot of the restaurant I work for. I figure Iím out of gas since I have received through my T-Mobile sync up and drive device
This code (February 2)
ďP0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction".
-img_5943.jpg
I didnít pay attention to it until April 5 when it didnít start at 3am. That night I took a ride with a friend to come back in the following morning with 3 gallons of gas, for my surprise I try to start the truck again before pouring the gas, and it worked I was driving again!
I added the 3 gallons of gas and went home (3.1 miles) came back and again trying to get home the truck didnít start for the second time. Let me mention that the first time the truck didnít start I was a little over 1/4 of gas it made sense of the above code. I went back to the restaurant grab a hammer and hit the gas tank, checked some fuses and nothing I waited tried again and nothing went back to the restaurant came back out tried again and it worked turn it off turn it on turn off turn on and it was working again, then I decided to go to a hand car wash, it was 6 oíclock and they didnít except me since they were closing and I was literally the last car, I drove away took their alley and thatís The first time my R died on me while driving, luckily there was a vacant lot and push my R out of way. Six minute away the closest gas station ended up pouring 9 gallons to the tank with no luck, Paid a tow truck and go it home.
Next morning check more fuses everything looked fine but I have never checked the voltage ďI will be doing it in the next hour after posting thisĒ
Somehow it worked again, went for a spin
Came back and everything back to normal.

I parked and didnít use my R until yesterday and went to another car wash, came back home and started vacuuming my R and the engine was running and it died again 2pm.
Tried at again at 5pm and nothing, battery is ok just cranks for more than five seconds automatically (sorry I donít keep count) I keep trying for five minutes and I donít want to kill my battery and left everything alone.
Went back to the garage at midnight and it fire right up.
At this point I donít feel comfortable driving my R, do you guys think at this point it still the ignition switch?




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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 03:06 PM
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My SSR:
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I see you have posted this issue in multiple locations, which makes thing confusing.

You said fuses LOOKED ok. Please refer to my post in the following thread regarding testing for fuse box issue using a voltmeter or test light. Also @Mike in AZ respond using a hair dryer.
You MUST test at Underhood fuse box when the truck WONT start.

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/index.php?page=active_topics

I further believe fuse box issue because the green highlighted fuse power the evap purge solenoid, the throttle control actuator. AND the relay 42 that the shuts down with a bad wire in the fuse box is the PCM/ECM power relay. That ground circuit is turned on and off by the ECM. If it see o bolts when not commanded on it will set this code. Well if the wire in fuse box failed this will result in 0 volts on that wire.

I don't believe it's the ignition switch because ECM is staying awake and recognizing these other problems.

I been wrong before and will be wrong again in the future. Just ask Marie!
But testing for a fuse box or relay 42 failure is simple enough with the correct tools. ANDit wont cost anything except a few minutes of your time. Less time than replacing the switch and if my test proves correct you will have confidence the fuse box repair restored reliabilty.
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:22 PM
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If it is cranking and not starting intermittently and dies while driving then I would suspect the fuel pump or the connector to the fuel pump. If the engine is starved of fuel and dies it could set off all those other codes.
First find and pull the connector for the fuel pump/sender and clean all the connections, flush out with a contact cleaner and re-connect and try it, the connector has been a source of Fuel pump issues.
You can also get you fuel pump tested to see it is weak or failing. Replacement requires dropping the fuel tank and you should replace both the pump and sender while its out.

I think I replied to this on your other post, so forgive me!

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thatís my next shot I just disassemble the ignition switch and cleaned it thank you all for all for help


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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 07:58 AM
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OK - I was wrong about what causes P0689 to set. The ECM monitors the switched side of the relay not the control side!
It sets based on 0 volts from the "switched" side of the relay.

I still say the problem is most likely the fuse box or relay 42. See the attached document compiled from Service manual regarding the codes that were reset.

I wonder if others that had fuse box problems ever checked codes and found this code ?????

This seems to be the first time I can recall somebody actually provided codes from a 05-06 with an intermittent stall/no start.
To me it seems that if this code was retrieved in this situation fuse box would be prime candidate.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoprof View Post
I see you have posted this issue in multiple locations, which makes thing confusing.

You said fuses LOOKED ok. Please refer to my post in the following thread regarding testing for fuse box issue using a voltmeter or test light. Also @Mike in AZ respond using a hair dryer.
You MUST test at Underhood fuse box when the truck WONT start.

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/index.php?page=active_topics

I further believe fuse box issue because the green highlighted fuse power the evap purge solenoid, the throttle control actuator. AND the relay 42 that the shuts down with a bad wire in the fuse box is the PCM/ECM power relay. That ground circuit is turned on and off by the ECM. If it see o bolts when not commanded on it will set this code. Well if the wire in fuse box failed this will result in 0 volts on that wire.

I don't believe it's the ignition switch because ECM is staying awake and recognizing these other problems.

I been wrong before and will be wrong again in the future. Just ask Marie!
But testing for a fuse box or relay 42 failure is simple enough with the correct tools. ANDit wont cost anything except a few minutes of your time. Less time than replacing the switch and if my test proves correct you will have confidence the fuse box repair restored reliabilty.


The problem persists ground cable has been tightened, I checked the fuse box with my voltmeter no wire crack and just finish checking fuel pressure The reading was 60 PSI it came down once I took my phone out for The picture
with the voltmeter I Checked all circuits in the third picture you can find corrosion and was cleaned
I was hoping to be one of the ignition coils and started messing with them
The next step is to check for any gas or air leaks.
I almost forgot I wasnít able to see the other thread from Mike in Arizona when he mentioned the hair dryer and if someone can call me right now (please) to verify that I did a good job on the fuse box since my R just died again, it takes epistemically 28 to 35 minutes to shut off
847-609-7420


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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 06:40 AM
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My SSR:
04 Redline #9973
Sorry
I did not see this last night, too late eastern time.
I just found out link did not work, Had I known sooner I would have reposted a different link

here is another try

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/...-issue-248543/

Basically you need to test the fuses I discuss in post #7 when the truck wont start.
Possibly Dicktator picture will give you a better idea of where to examine closer for a failure -- the crack may look like a scratch! If you gently lift that same wire out of the box in this area you should see the break.

It looks like you are trying to check the wires in fuse box using an ohmmeter --and by sight. The crack (broken wire) is hard to see.And an ohmmeter will check to see if the circuit will carry less than 2v and only a few amps. Plus the problem only occurs when the wire is hot - your wire has cooled off and can carry the small current your ohmmeter uses but it cannot carry the current required to operate the circuits. This is why you test with your voltmeter when the problem is occurring. You need to test it when hot and with the proper current and voltage trying to work the circuit.

To do this place your meter in volts dc (I see you do not have an auto ranging meter so set it to somewhere near 20V DC). Connect your black lead to a good ground (the alternator case or bracket should be a good ground and is nearby) Now with the key on touch the red lead to BOTH sides of ALL of the fuses in the under hood fuse box.
Note your voltage readings on the fuses --- in particular the one highlighted in green on the attached document

If the green highlighted fuses DO NOT have close to 12 volts on both sides you have a bad fuse box, relay or circuit wiring to the fuse box. The fuse box is the most common for the complaint.

Below is a link to a you tube video explaining the test procedure for the fuses --- not an SSR but it is the same principle
Because we are actually checking the circuit at the fuse and not for a problem with the fuse - ignore the last part using diode test.


If you don't read 12 volts on any fuse you do not have your black lead connected to a good ground - move the black lead and try again!

AGAIN YOU MUST PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE WHEN THE CAR WILL NOT START AND WITH THE KEY TURNED TO RUN POSITION!


I will be in class until after 12:00 eastern time - I will try to call after that
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Just died on me again, checked fuses were ok before it died, (not after wards) dc voltage was 0. Fuse box is now open and trying to find the problem


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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:52 AM
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My SSR:
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I read through the thread but couldn't tell if you had the fuse box repaired or replaced yet. Doesn't say what year either. I am assuming it is an 05. Sounds intermittent and when it rests it re-starts. That is typical of fuse box failure. I personally don't know but I have seen on here that the repair folks say you can't see the failure unless you have a magnifying glass. The break is evidently very small and hard to see and only rears it's ugly head when warm or driven a little. Good luck.


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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:59 AM
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My SSR:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DjElPaiza View Post
Just died on me again, checked fuses were ok before it died, (not after wards) dc voltage was 0. Fuse box is now open and trying to find the problem


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GREAT JOB! Now we have confirmed it is electrical and most likely the fuse box


The pictures of your fuse box does not appear like you are looking at the portion of the fuse box where the weak wire is

Please place a picture of all views of fuse box and maybe somebody that has actually repaired these can respond with where the wire normally has a problem.

You can also check here to make one of the emergency jumper wires

If you do this --- DON"T leave it plugged in too long -- As ED points out this jumper will increase the current flow through the ignition switch and could create problems with that component.

https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?...app=PowerPoint
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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1st pic

2nd pic

2nd pic with angled view

2nd with angled view top

3rd pic

3rd pic with angled view

3rd pic angled view top

4th pic side view left

4th pic side view right

I hope I donít get anybody confused


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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the mistake now I just remove all the fuses and Iím in the other side
1
2
3
4
5
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9
10
11


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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 12:56 PM
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My SSR:
04 Redline #9973
I don't believe you have taken the fuse box apart ALL the way
He mentions removing all fuses, and his picture looks like the terminals the fuse actually plugs into.

I believe your picture is NOT on the fuse side of the box. -- because one of your picture still shows the fuses installed.

HELP from somebody that has repaired the fuse box -- @Dicktator , @Dragon2U or @Mike in AZ .


I believe you have to remove all the fuses and relays (take a picture to reinstall everything properly)

then after carefully drilling out retainer as shown in Dicktator one drive
Open the opposite side of the fuse box. I THINK the wire in question is on the fuse side of the box.

Please review his one drive power point a little more carefully
Maybe somebody will respond to verify my statements - I know some are on a road trip.
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Found it!



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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Can I Solder?


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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Can I solder? -img_6460.jpg


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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:22 PM
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
NO! Don't solder!!

Replace wire with 22 gage, Mark connectors with black marker, remove wire, cut new one 8" long, strip if coated and replace.

Test with meter.

SSR How to Library: Look up FUSE BOX REPAIR

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5


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I did 3 this week.


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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:22 PM
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There appears to be a lot of nasty corrosion also that is not good !!!!!!!!

Jim & Sherrie

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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanx! I want to do all lines now, should I?


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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:39 PM
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My SSR:
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Originally Posted by DjElPaiza View Post
Found it!



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GREAT JOB!!!!!

Listen to Dicktaor DO NOT SOLDER

replace wire
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:40 PM
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Thanx! I want to do all lines now, should I?


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Spray with Eclectic Cleaner, brush with tooth brush all good.

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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Can find 22 gauge solid copper wire just tried Menards Home Depot and autozonen, can you suggest another place?


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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 02:29 PM
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My SSR:
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Can find 22 gauge solid copper wire just tried Menards Home Depot and autozonen, can you suggest another place?


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I order by spool but try electronic store, Hobby Shop.

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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 03:02 PM
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Also I think in Dick's Library, he REROUTES the replacement wire to eliminate some of the bends. Click on the red link in his post #17 !!

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 03:07 PM
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Also I think in Dick's Library, he REROUTES the replacement wire to eliminate some of the bends.

Nick
Indeed. Here's before and after.

Wonder why they built them that way? Does not seem intuitive. Made more work for them.
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 03:44 PM
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Indeed. Here's before and after.

Wonder why they built them that way? Does not seem intuitive. Made more work for them.
I often wonder this same thing while servicing other makes and models.
Toyota door panel clips are like the clips used on SSR interior panels (seat hoops, front spear etc.) Clips hold tighter than the strength of component. I had an opportunity to speak to a Toyota interior engineer and asked why did DC oor panels sometimes break when removing door panel. He said clips were made so the don't rattle. I replied why aren't door panels made with more yield strength. He replied Because it would cost more and we don't worry about door panels breaking during disassembly because we don't have to do it under warranty.

I have to believe wires prebent before assembly and multiple GM lines used this fuse basic configuration and they designed this around other configurations.
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 03:52 PM
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Can find 22 gauge solid copper wire just tried Menards Home Depot and autozonen, can you suggest another place?


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Kind of suspected it was the wire gremlin all along. Hope that fixes it.


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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 04:11 PM
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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54 min and counting
-img_6462.jpg couldnít find 22awg but I got a lil creative

Itís just a test donít kill me for this
I will be ordering the right awg since I donít know for shire is the one I installed was the correct one
Left side was too thick, middle is the broken one and the right side was the one installed
Thanx!!!! 1:03 min and counting!!!


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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Test wire only


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