Gages Going Crazy - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Gages Going Crazy

Hi All,

Recently my gages have been going haywire and the dealer is at a loss as to what could be causing it. One minute my speedo is fine and the next minute the car is going 10 miles an hour faster than speedo reading. Yesterday the 3 auxiliary gages were all redlined and stayed that way until i got to my destination. Once I shut the car off and turned it back on they were fine. Today the speed-o was at 10 mph while sitting in my garage. Any ideas?

Thanks
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 04:08 PM
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Do a search on this Forum for "Stepper Motors".

I'm assuming you're talking about an SSR? Let us know some more about you & your truck so we can better help.

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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, guess I should have provided a bit more background. I own a 2005 Asphalt SSR with 50K miles. Based in the southeast US, the car is garage kept and gets out 1-2 times a week for short rides most of the time. Gets a few long rides each year hauling my motorcycles for rides and car/bike shows. Have had issues in the past with the Security Light coming on and staying on, but the dealer said it was most likely a loose fuse and not to worry. Recent issues with all the gages tells me its something a little more involved.
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 05:21 PM
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The dealer is really off and should know better. Early 2000 GM trucks, SUV and cars are well known for bad stepper motor design. The steppers are the parts that move the needles. The parts are around $15 for a full replacement and I charge $10 to put them in. If you want me to do it please send a PM and I will provide my address, you will also need to pay return shipping and any insurance if desired. If you are in the southeast you might be close to me in GA.

If you don't want to ship there are many places that will replace them for you, commercial places are normally around $100 or so.

It is not a fuse and will not get better. They are often intermittent and then just fail all the way. Turning the engine on and off a few times might help get the needle to display properly for that particular session.

Other things that happen to 05-06 are fuse box issues and brake issues. The fuse box may or may not have a bad copper trace that controls some main power. After it warms up the truck will just stop running, when it cools it will work fine again.... until it warms up again. Same issue with Vettes and Trailblazers but the problem surfaces in different areas for them. The brake module is located under the driver seat and well known for having poor solder joints. Again, happens on our trucks and many other GM trucks, vans and SUVs no matter where it is installed.

No need to repair these 2 areas now, but just be aware that they are the 2 other most common trouble issues for 05-06 owners. There are places that will repair the brake but none for the fuse. If you are handy there are tons of posts here on the forum as well as pictures that show and walk you through how to repair them yourself. I offer $10 repair for each item plus return shipping. I open the fuse box and replace the copper trace with the same like item, and resolder the brake with older solder that is of higher quality. The brake work is not a 100% cure, I think I have had 3 that I could not repair with resoldering.

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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 07:33 PM
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Good suggestions Dragon 2U. GGB try giving some more info as to where you are just saying your based in the Southeast isn't to helpful, had my stepper motors go and was able to get them fixed by contacting an SSR member here, I am sure there is someone close to you that can direct you in the right direction and maybe even help you remove and replace them. I would try anything before I would let a dealer try and fix it, I even have bumper to bumper coverage and didn't take it to a dealer. The guys here in the Fanatics are a great group of people who help each other out in any way they can, although we like to bust each others butts once in awhile, but its all in fun. Well we really only pick on the guys with the "Yellow" taxi colored ones most of the time.
If you check this forum out you should find and be able to get almost any problem that happens to your R on here. Welcome aboard.
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon2U View Post
The dealer is really off and should know better. Early 2000 GM trucks, SUV and cars are well known for bad stepper motor design. The steppers are the parts that move the needles. The parts are around $15 for a full replacement and I charge $10 to put them in. If you want me to do it please send a PM and I will provide my address, you will also need to pay return shipping and any insurance if desired. If you are in the southeast you might be close to me in GA.

If you don't want to ship there are many places that will replace them for you, commercial places are normally around $100 or so.

It is not a fuse and will not get better. They are often intermittent and then just fail all the way. Turning the engine on and off a few times might help get the needle to display properly for that particular session.

Other things that happen to 05-06 are fuse box issues and brake issues. The fuse box may or may not have a bad copper trace that controls some main power. After it warms up the truck will just stop running, when it cools it will work fine again.... until it warms up again. Same issue with Vettes and Trailblazers but the problem surfaces in different areas for them. The brake module is located under the driver seat and well known for having poor solder joints. Again, happens on our trucks and many other GM trucks, vans and SUVs no matter where it is installed.

No need to repair these 2 areas now, but just be aware that they are the 2 other most common trouble issues for 05-06 owners. There are places that will repair the brake but none for the fuse. If you are handy there are tons of posts here on the forum as well as pictures that show and walk you through how to repair them yourself. I offer $10 repair for each item plus return shipping. I open the fuse box and replace the copper trace with the same like item, and resolder the brake with older solder that is of higher quality. The brake work is not a 100% cure, I think I have had 3 that I could not repair with resoldering.
Nice! I was afraid it was just me, glad to know there is a root cause. I live near Augusta, Georgia and will travel if you can do the repair for $25. Let me know the best way to get in touch with you.

Thanks,
Mark, AKA GGB
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 05:58 AM
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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 10:01 AM
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While we are on of subject of gauges, I have a crazy tachometer. After firing up the motor the tach was stuck at 7,000 RPM's. Turned off and refired several times, still stuck. A couple days later was stuck at 4,000 rpm and this time it moved up but off throttle returned to 4,000. This went on for about a week and then yesterday stared acting normal. This same thing occurred about a year ago with the same action. Any thoughts or advice on this...thx..an ole grunt

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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flamminnanner06 View Post
While we are on of subject of gauges, I have a crazy tachometer. After firing up the motor the tach was stuck at 7,000 RPM's. Turned off and refired several times, still stuck. A couple days later was stuck at 4,000 rpm and this time it moved up but off throttle returned to 4,000. This went on for about a week and then yesterday stared acting normal. This same thing occurred about a year ago with the same action. Any thoughts or advice on this...thx..an ole grunt
Tach stepper motor most likely is on its' last legs. Will get worse over time and you'll most likely start having issues with the other gauges soon. Replace ALL 5 with genuine Switec Juken x27.168 (current replacement stepper motor) when you repair. Also, not keen on modifying the front dash cover. You can R&R the cluster without completely removing the front dash cover if done on a warm (hot) day. If you do decide to remove the front dash cover (on warm/hot day), better off considering permanently removing upper passenger air bag nuts than cutting dash cover corner(s).
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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 11:42 AM
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Kind of a related problem.....went to drive my R the other day and nothing worked in the dash section, no gauges, no idiot lights, etc. So I continued to where I was going and all of a sudden everything started working. My first thought was the ignition switch, but then I went under the hood and cleaned and tightened the ground at the firewall. Have not had an issue since.
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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 02:59 PM
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My SSR:
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We did 3 Cluster/Stepper Motors yesterday at Dicktator's Garage.

They were all the 0EM C5-168 and we are replacing them with the latest X27-168, these are the upgraded stepper motors.

Had to replace some bulbs also.

Check SSR How to Library;

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look up Cluster change and Grounds.

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1. Did Bronze 2004. Very nice.
2. Also Red 2004.
3. Jim Greeley changing the Clusters and we did his 05 6 speed.
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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flamminnanner06 View Post
While we are on of subject of gauges, I have a crazy tachometer. After firing up the motor the tach was stuck at 7,000 RPM's. Turned off and refired several times, still stuck. A couple days later was stuck at 4,000 rpm and this time it moved up but off throttle returned to 4,000. This went on for about a week and then yesterday stared acting normal. This same thing occurred about a year ago with the same action. Any thoughts or advice on this...thx..an ole grunt
Steppers ......................

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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 04:10 PM
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Dicktator-
That's a great looking neighborhood!
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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 11:53 AM
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You guys look like a great group of fun lovers with the SSR's. I appreciate all of your threads. By the way, that hood on the red one look very interesting. Who makes that? Thanks in advance.
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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 12:11 PM
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You guys look like a great group of fun lovers with the SSR's. I appreciate all of your threads. By the way, that hood on the red one look very interesting. Who makes that? Thanks in advance.
Check out MPD1 on the internet. Eric from this forum makes all kinds of parts and hoods, tail gates, front and rear spoilers etc. for our SSR's. Check it out.


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post #16 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Bad news. I ran out to the post office yesterday and while driving the top tried to put itself down. I was in traffic jam on a bridge so there was no where to pull over. By the time I got free and found a place to pull over my cab smelled like the motor for the top had burned up. I lost control of windows, door locks and trunk release. I tried starting & turning off the ignition multiple time, but the motor for the top was still running. Eventually it stopped and I had no choice, but to quickly get it up to the dealer. Probably will hear something from them tomorrow.
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post #17 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dragon2U View Post
Sent you a Private Message (PM)
I am too new to PM people, but saw your message. Recent developments may make gage issue a non factor. Will get back to you after I hear from the dealer. Thanks
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post #18 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGB View Post
Bad news. I ran out to the post office yesterday and while driving the top tried to put itself down. I was in traffic jam on a bridge so there was no where to pull over. By the time I got free and found a place to pull over my cab smelled like the motor for the top had burned up. I lost control of windows, door locks and trunk release. I tried starting & turning off the ignition multiple time, but the motor for the top was still running. Eventually it stopped and I had no choice, but to quickly get it up to the dealer. Probably will hear something from them tomorrow.
You have ground issue.

Dealer can fix, you will probably need RDM, BCM and roof pump motor.

Been there, done that.

Dicktator


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post #19 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
You have ground issue.

Dealer can fix, you will probably need RDM, BCM and roof pump motor.

Been there, done that.

Dicktator
Any idea what I should expect from the dealer from a cost standpoint to do those repairs?
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post #20 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 07:31 AM
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Any idea what I should expect from the dealer from a cost standpoint to do those repairs?
Depends on what he finds and if he knows what to do.

I would expect a grand or so.

Where do you live, may have some help in your area.

Dicktator


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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Depends on what he finds and if he knows what to do.

I would expect a grand or so.

Where do you live, may have some help in your area.

Dicktator
Ugh, Not what I needed to hear right now. I live just east of Augusta, GA.
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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 02:39 PM
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Ugh, Not what I needed to hear right now. I live just east of Augusta, GA.
PM Mike at ssroe Site Name.

He may be able to help you.

He lives in Ga.

Dicktator


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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
PM Mike at ssroe Site Name.

He may be able to help you.

He lives in Ga.

Dicktator
Unfortunately I don't have PM privileges as of yet. I heard from the dealer this morning that the module that controls the top burnt out and the switch burnt out also. My over the phone quote to replace them was $1,600!! I asked for a full written estimate with my out the door price and will post here once I get it.

Would appreciate a sanity check for the cost of the work.
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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Here is a copy of the estimate. Reasonable or can I do better elsewhere? Thanks.

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post #25 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Depends on what he finds and if he knows what to do.

I would expect a grand or so.

Where do you live, may have some help in your area.

Dicktator
Also, per their quote do you think that is all that needs to be addressed if you think it was a ground issue?
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post #26 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 08:12 AM
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Sorry to see your problems escalate. From memory, RDMs (roof door modules) are around $100 and used pumps are around $300 or so. All can be found on here on the forum or EBay given time. Switch is an uncommon problem so would need to see what was going on with it but a used console plate is around $200 or so. Not knowing what the code is in the dash, hard to tell what the issue is there but could just be the RDM problem being displayed.

RDM is an easy replacement, 10-20 minutes tops. The pump will take a little time, maybe 2-3 hours, then you will need some fresh oil and bleed it properly. Switch plate is a 10-20 minute job as well at most. If you decide to have the dealer do the work, demand that all removed parts be returned to you. The switch plate and pump have good parts on them that can be reused.

Diagnosing the problem is hard to do long distance. Could be a ground issue, could be something else. Maybe the RDM decided to just wreck havoc. I know when I installed a bluetooth unit in my truck I had all sorts of uncommanded roof movement until I removed it and installed a different brand. If there was any recent work on the truck or installation of a stereo it could cause the issue, these trucks are VERY sensitive to small electrical variances. I think there should have been more shielded cable used and a better grounding system but issues do not pop up in every truck. Was your trucks previous life near the ocean or up north? Grounds seem to have more issues in those climates.

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post #27 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon2U View Post
Sorry to see your problems escalate. From memory, RDMs (rood door modules) are around $100 and used pumps are around $300 or so. All can be found on here on the forum or EBay given time. Switch is an uncommon problem so would need to see what was going on with it but a used console plate is around $200 or so. Not knowing what the code is in the dash, hard to tell what the issue is there but could just be the RDM problem being displayed.

RDM is an easy replacement, 10-20 minutes tops. The pump will take a little time, maybe 2-3 hours, then you will need some fresh oil and bleed it properly. Switch plate is a 10-20 minute job as well at most. If you decide to have the dealer do the work, demand that all removed parts be returned to you. The switch plate and pump have good parts on them that can be reused.

Diagnosing the problem is hard to do long distance. Could be a ground issue, could be something else. Maybe the RDM decided to just wreck havoc. I know when I installed a bluetooth unit in my truck I had all sorts of uncommanded roof movement until I removed it and installed a different brand. If there was any recent work on the truck or installation of a stereo it could cause the issue, these trucks are VERY sensitive to small electrical variances. I think there should have been more shielded cable used and a better grounding system but issues do not pop up in every truck. Was your trucks previous life near the ocean or up north? Grounds seem to have more issues in those climates.
Thanks. The truck is totally stock and has always been garage kept here in the south. So their marking things up a bit, but the quote is not totally out of line?
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post #28 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon2U View Post
Sorry to see your problems escalate. From memory, RDMs (rood door modules) are around $100 and used pumps are around $300 or so. All can be found on here on the forum or EBay given time. Switch is an uncommon problem so would need to see what was going on with it but a used console plate is around $200 or so. Not knowing what the code is in the dash, hard to tell what the issue is there but could just be the RDM problem being displayed.

RDM is an easy replacement, 10-20 minutes tops. The pump will take a little time, maybe 2-3 hours, then you will need some fresh oil and bleed it properly. Switch plate is a 10-20 minute job as well at most. If you decide to have the dealer do the work, demand that all removed parts be returned to you. The switch plate and pump have good parts on them that can be reused.

Diagnosing the problem is hard to do long distance. Could be a ground issue, could be something else. Maybe the RDM decided to just wreck havoc. I know when I installed a bluetooth unit in my truck I had all sorts of uncommanded roof movement until I removed it and installed a different brand. If there was any recent work on the truck or installation of a stereo it could cause the issue, these trucks are VERY sensitive to small electrical variances. I think there should have been more shielded cable used and a better grounding system but issues do not pop up in every truck. Was your trucks previous life near the ocean or up north? Grounds seem to have more issues in those climates.
I don't believe I saw a pump listed in the estimate - only the module -- I would have some doubts about diagnostics. I also don't think this would have an effect on the gauges problem you had earlier. I would be afraid of the next phone call " Well the work we did accomplished ? however you still ........ we need $$$$$$"+

"Diagnosis the problem is hard to do long distance"

you live near Augusta! -- We might be able to work a deal.
I will find a way down there next weekend with my TECH 2 and some diag tools and will diagnosis in exchange for two tickets to the Masters PGA tournament on the final Sunday???
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post #29 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 12:06 PM
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Thanks. The truck is totally stock and has always been garage kept here in the south. So their marking things up a bit, but the quote is not totally out of line?
Well, the top lne in quote is for the RDM only and not for pump. 4 hous to drop top by pulling 2 cables and spend 10 mins is way out of line to me. That is $350 too much.

Second line to swap out switches is way out too. 10 mins job but you are paying min hour rate.

I agree with prof, I think they are addressing only top level issues and not underlying cause. If you want to start with the rdm and switch we can do it here and look at a few things. Worst case is you pull fuse to get home and have them test again with good parts since I do not have a Tech 2.
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post #30 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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2005 Midnight
Thanks I asked about the pump and this was the response.

My tech has informed me that we can not communicate with the roof pump motor due to the control module being burned up. This is where we need to start in order to get your vehicle right so we can check the roof pump motor.

We need to replace these 2 parts in order to figure out if the roof pump is burned up as well.

I will need to order these parts, so the sooner we get them ordered, the sooner we can get the vehicle working right. let me know.

One other thing, on the phone call with dealer I asked if it was safe to drive, he said no. Dragon if it is safe to drive and you can do the work I would be ecstatic and can bring it any day except Friday.
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