Are The Heated Seats Powered Even With The Key Off? Battery Died & Seat Was On... - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Are The Heated Seats Powered Even With The Key Off? Battery Died & Seat Was On...

Hi again...

While repairing top rattles I had my passenger seatbelt latched (with no one in it) to keep it from rattling against the loop on the seat while I test drove it.

In the meantime, I was drying the passenger side carpet and pad due to my top weatherstripping/A-pillar water leak, and I must have bumped the seat heater on.

The next day, the battery was completely dead.

I always assumed the seats would not power on without the key. I know the passenger seat heater will only work if the seatbelt is latched, which it was.

But, the truck sat overnight with the switch on "Lo" and the new 1 month old battery was completely dead.

Can anyone confirm that the seat heaters do NOT shut off when you turn the key off?

Thanks!
Jeff
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggoat!!! View Post
Hi again...

While repairing top rattles I had my passenger seatbelt latched (with no one in it) to keep it from rattling against the loop on the seat while I test drove it.

In the meantime, I was drying the passenger side carpet and pad due to my top weatherstripping/A-pillar water leak, and I must have bumped the seat heater on.

The next day, the battery was completely dead.

I always assumed the seats would not power on without the key. I know the passenger seat heater will only work if the seatbelt is latched, which it was.

But, the truck sat overnight with the switch on "Lo" and the new 1 month old battery was completely dead.

Can anyone confirm that the seat heaters do NOT shut off when you turn the key off?

Thanks!
Jeff

I've accidently bumped the switch on the drivers side more than once. But never had a battery problem as a result. I do think the power to the seat heaters are switched and would be shut down with the key off.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:06 AM
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Away from desktop or office today so no wiring diagrams. But they are controlled by BCM and should shut off with key.
I would check to make sure power seat switch does not stick. You probably moved seat during this process and may have stuck trying to move. This would drain battery overnight easily. There is a circuit breaker that may cause it to shut down momentarily to prevent overloading circuit. But after it cools while shut down it will reset and draw current again.

Just a thought, not sure what its worth.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggoat!!! View Post
Hi again...

While repairing top rattles I had my passenger seatbelt latched (with no one in it) to keep it from rattling against the loop on the seat while I test drove it.

In the meantime, I was drying the passenger side carpet and pad due to my top weatherstripping/A-pillar water leak, and I must have bumped the seat heater on.

The next day, the battery was completely dead.

I always assumed the seats would not power on without the key. I know the passenger seat heater will only work if the seatbelt is latched, which it was.

But, the truck sat overnight with the switch on "Lo" and the new 1 month old battery was completely dead.

Can anyone confirm that the seat heaters do NOT shut off when you turn the key off?

Thanks!
Jeff
Dead Battery, from past experience, without the key in the ignition just touch your ignition switch slightly forward and see if the battery light comes on. I had a switch and you could just touch the steering wheel just hey little or shutting the door and ignition switch energize itself. If it does replace ignition switch. Just a helpful hint.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:56 AM
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You do not need to replace the switch, just reposition the tooth on the switch one notch. This was a Fuji fix and the switch is still working fine. .02
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:43 PM
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there is a pressure sensitive switching device in the seat bottom. these can be broken by kneeling on the seat as the knee is stressing the switch more than it was designed to take. I know it's a PITA to walk around to reach something, but as more plastic and electronics invaded our cars... they no longer squeek and rattle.... just go Cheap, cheap,cheap... Even if the switch is left ON, it should de activate when the key is Off.
The ign switch would be the first place to start and see if it IS one tooth off...


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:56 PM
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I've viewed enough posts that end up the problem is a failure with the ignition switch. But are some of you saying it can "jump" off by one tooth on it's own or due to wear.

I don't see here that he installed a new ign. switch whereby he might have installed it off by a tooth. ?????
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moscooter View Post

I've viewed enough posts that end up the problem is a failure with the ignition switch. But are some of you saying it can "jump" off by one tooth on it's own or due to wear.

I don't see here that he installed a new ign. switch whereby he might have installed it off by a tooth. ?????
the springs that hold the switch into the mast shaft are Not the best. I have turned the key Off hard enough for it to Skip a Tooth. Thank goodness it was when installing a new switch. just say'n... chit happens... ya never know...


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3yello View Post
You do not need to replace the switch, just reposition the tooth on the switch one notch. This was a Fuji fix and the switch is still working fine. .02[IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrinjester.gif[/IMG]
Disagree, if it is the original switch it needs replaced.
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