How to rewire power outlets to key power easily - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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How to rewire power outlets to key power easily

I grew tired of removing my TPMS from my under dash power outlet every time I parked my truck, and then having to fish it out from under seat to plug it back in. So I spent some time with the wiring diagram and came up with an easy way to switch the two under dash outlets to a acessory/run power (shuts off when key is off)

Picture #1
I obtained a fuse tap for mini fuses from advance auto. I used my bench grinder to narrow the male spade terminal of a solderless connector so that it would fit into the fuse box.

Picture #2
I then cut off the solderless connector that came with add on tap. Crimped on the modified male connector and installed a 7.5amp fuse to the top slot only.
I prefer to error on the side of caution -- I only use these two outlets for the TPMS reader (0.015Amps) and phone charging -- 7.5 is probably still more than I need. The circuits I am working with in the fuse box are 15 and 20 amp circuits so I could go even higher.

Picture #3
I removed the 20amp Accessory power outlet fuse in rear fuse box (fuse #46) I did my research and this fuse is used only for these two outlets. The cigarette lighter is a separate fuse and the circuit needs to be power at all times from the source because it also supplies power to operate a scan tool at the Data Link Connector, the power outlet in the rear is also a different circuit! I plugged in the fuse tap with the attached wire pointing to my right (front of truck). I then connected the male connector to the left side of the empty slot #29. (03 and 04 this is not used, 05-06 automatics will have a fuse here for the transmission control module) I chose this because it will have power in accessory AND run. Anybody with an 05-06 automatic that want to do this you will only find a tap with power on in run only - not accessory! right side of #44 or #48 or left side #??. NOTE I EDITED THIS, BECAUSE IT SHOULD BE FUSE #52 NOT #49.

Picture #4
My TPMS reader can now stay plugged in. It comes on when I turn key to accssory/run and shuts off when I park my truck -- this picture is after a somewhat longer test drive. Tires were 36 PSI when I pulled out of driveway.

Picture #5
This shows the connections superimposed onto the fusebox diagram

YES the fuse box cover still fits just fine!

WHY didn't I think of doing this before!

Next on the electrical modifications agenda
Make a plug in jumper harness that will switch DRL operation to the fog lights. Its going to require more time and a trip to the pick and pull for a 10 pin connector with wires from a trailblazer so I can make a harness that will just plug in series to our existing harness 10 pin connector -- no splicing of wires and easy to remove.
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 06:14 PM
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Clever. Nice, simple solution to having to remember to disconnect plug in items.

I backfeed through either of the underdash PowerPoints for use with my Battery Tender. This mod unfortunately would preclude my being able to do this any longer. Correct?

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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by VI Ken View Post
Clever. Nice, simple solution to having to remember to disconnect plug in items.

I backfeed through either of the underdash PowerPoints for use with my Battery Tender. This mod unfortunately would preclude my being able to do this any longer. Correct?
You are correct, however you could still use cigarette lighter in ashtray or the power out in the bed to power up battery tender. It just depends what works best for you.
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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 07:23 PM
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Dang your good. I was using my plug in phone charger in one of those and was always unplugging and plugging it back in. I don't like to leave things plugged in. Don't know why, I just don't.


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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 08:33 PM
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Great idea!
Putting that on my to do list, thanks for the info.
GM makes their outlets live all the time, our 59 Impala and HHR are like that. Our Toyota Celica and my daughters VW are all key operated. Turn off and remove key outlets have no power. Probably most cars are that way?
I guess GM have their reasons to be different. When they were actually cigarette lighters would seem logical.
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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoprof View Post
I grew tired of removing my TPMS from my under dash power outlet every time I parked my truck, and then having to fish it out from under seat to plug it back in. So I spent some time with the wiring diagram and came up with an easy way to switch the two under dash outlets to a acessory/run power (shuts off when key is off)

Picture #1
I obtained a fuse tap for mini fuses from advance auto. I used my bench grinder to narrow the male spade terminal of a solderless connector so that it would fit into the fuse box.

Picture #2
I then cut off the solderless connector that came with add on tap. Crimped on the modified male connector and installed a 7.5amp fuse to the top slot only.
I prefer to error on the side of caution -- I only use these two outlets for the TPMS reader (0.015Amps) and phone charging -- 7.5 is probably still more than I need. The circuits I am working with in the fuse box are 15 and 20 amp circuits so I could go even higher.

Picture #3
I removed the 20amp Accessory power outlet fuse in rear fuse box (fuse #46) I did my research and this fuse is used only for these two outlets. The cigarette lighter is a separate fuse and the circuit needs to be power at all times from the source because it also supplies power to operate a scan tool at the Data Link Connector, the power outlet in the rear is also a different circuit! I plugged in the fuse tap with the attached wire pointing to my right (front of truck). I then connected the male connector to the left side of the empty slot #29. (03 and 04 this is not used, 05-06 automatics will have a fuse here for the transmission control module) I chose this because it will have power in accessory AND run. Anybody with an 05-06 automatic that want to do this you will only find a tap with power on in run only - not accessory! right side of #44 or #48 or left side #49.

Picture #4
My TPMS reader can now stay plugged in. It comes on when I turn key to accssory/run and shuts off when I park my truck -- this picture is after a somewhat longer test drive. Tires were 36 PSI when I pulled out of driveway.

Picture #5
This shows the connections superimposed onto the fusebox diagram

YES the fuse box cover still fits just fine!

WHY didn't I think of doing this before!

Next on the electrical modifications agenda
Make a plug in jumper harness that will switch DRL operation to the fog lights. Its going to require more time and a trip to the pick and pull for a 10 pin connector with wires from a trailblazer so I can make a harness that will just plug in series to our existing harness 10 pin connector -- no splicing of wires and easy to remove.

Curious as to if your monitors are external or internal. I have an external set on my Harley, but not sure I would like the size of those sticking out on my truck wheels. What brand of monitoring system did you use and if external, could you show a pic.
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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by moscooter View Post

Curious as to if your monitors are external or internal. I have an external set on my Harley, but not sure I would like the size of those sticking out on my truck wheels. What brand of monitoring system did you use and if external, could you show a pic.
It is external - yes the valve caps are a little large. I did not want to go to the trouble to re-road force balance my tires with the internal ones. I might switch to that style when I replace the tires but i am good with what I have for now. I have won some trophies with these big caps - nobody really seems to notice. I don't really have a problem with the looks. I worry more about tire pressure without a spare then the looks! I also wanted them for my trip to Maggie Valley last year and didn't have much time so went the quick route.

I found myself not plugging it for short trips -- but I could just as easily pick up a screw or something on a short trip and ruin a tire as I could on a long trip. Now I can leave it plugged in and it is always there for me.

Not sure of the manufacturer - They were less than $100 on Amazon. Cannot read screen in sunlight - but hiding it under dash provides for some shade to read when driving topless.
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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 12:29 PM
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I can't think of why I'm want those outlets hot in acc, so it would work great for me. Just have to remember not to plug the tire pump in there.
Great solution to an ongoing pain in the butt that even the most strident must-be-stock fans can use. Thank you, Sir.
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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 12:58 PM
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Nice mod that many of us thought about but never put in the effort to work, great job!!!!!


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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoprof View Post
It is external - yes the valve caps are a little large. I did not want to go to the trouble to re-road force balance my tires with the internal ones. I might switch to that style when I replace the tires but i am good with what I have for now. I have won some trophies with these big caps - nobody really seems to notice. I don't really have a problem with the looks. I worry more about tire pressure without a spare then the looks! I also wanted them for my trip to Maggie Valley last year and didn't have much time so went the quick route.

I found myself not plugging it for short trips -- but I could just as easily pick up a screw or something on a short trip and ruin a tire as I could on a long trip. Now I can leave it plugged in and it is always there for me.

Not sure of the manufacturer - They were less than $100 on Amazon. Cannot read screen in sunlight - but hiding it under dash provides for some shade to read when driving topless.

Those don't look to be as large as the ones on my Harley. I'll have to remove one from the bike and screw it onto a wheel and see how it looks. Yours do not look out of place nor too large to me.
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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 01:35 PM
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I think I will make that fuse box "mod" myself. With my speedo out of whack due to gear swap, I have been running with my Garmin GPS on the windshield to track MPH data. I also run with a radar detector in that other slot. So I end up pulling both "slightly" out when stopped so as to cut power to them.

This trick will avoid that need.
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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 01:49 PM
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Great write up! I did pretty much the same thing but used an in-line fuse with low profile 90 connectors. This allows the full amperage (most fuse taps are 10a max) which I need since Iím using it for ecm, tcm, and gauge ignition signals and some switches. The in-line fuses are also half the price of the taps at most places.
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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 03:35 PM
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Also want to note, on this truck fuse 49 is NOT a 12v switched signal. It powers on in run but itís not 12v, looks more like a data signal. This may be due to the wiring changes Iíve done but worth confirming on your truck for future reference.
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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 07:31 PM
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I would like that done to mine on a tech day
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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypherDesign View Post
Also want to note, on this truck fuse 49 is NOT a 12v switched signal. It powers on in run but itís not 12v, looks more like a data signal. This may be due to the wiring changes Iíve done but worth confirming on your truck for future reference.
Thanks __ you are correct -- I am not sure what it actually connects to ( I have not found circuit 2218 as shown on diagram I used) I trans posed to the fuse location diagram from this one off one I will edit previous post it should be FUSE#52! circuit 300 on diagram shown
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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 02:29 PM
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Mini Fuses and (other) Mini Fuses



I was hot to make this mod and thought no sweat, I've added a mini tap before. Stopped at Advanced Auto yesterday and grabbed one off the rack. Today, I had already ground down the male connector to fit and added it to my new mini tap.

Plugged in a mini 7.5 fuse and started to plug it all in where the 20 amp circuit was. Would not go in the slot.

Took a harder look and could easily see why it would not go in.........

Note the label on left box versus right box. I never knew there were multiple sizes of "mini" fuses.
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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 02:52 PM
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My SSR:
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So which should we get the mini(right) or mini low profile(left) ?
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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moscooter View Post


I was hot to make this mod and thought no sweat, I've added a mini tap before. Stopped at Advanced Auto yesterday and grabbed one off the rack. Today, I had already ground down the male connector to fit and added it to my new mini tap.

Plugged in a mini 7.5 fuse and started to plug it all in where the 20 amp circuit was. Would not go in the slot.

Took a harder look and could easily see why it would not go in.........

Note the label on left box versus right box. I never knew there were multiple sizes of "mini" fuses.
Sorry, ran out of picture to post the box. Also note there are now low profile DUAL fuses. A single center inlet and outlets on each side. So three prongs, two fused circuits ONE fuse body.
What will they think of next to save a few bucks.

I hope it worked to your satisfaction after you got the correct fuse tap.
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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
So which should we get the mini(right) or mini low profile(left) ?
You want an ATM fuse (right)
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:42 PM
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You want an ATM fuse (right)
They are labeled "Low Profile Mini" and "Mini", what is ATM?
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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:43 PM
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You want an ATM fuse (right)
They are labeled "Low Profile Mini" and "Mini", what is ATM?

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
They are labeled "Low Profile Mini" and "Mini", what is ATM?
It’s the fuse type. Those are technically both ATM style with the low profile sometimes being labeled ATM-LP, but you want the normal mini (not low profile).
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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
So which should we get the mini(right) or mini low profile(left) ?

Bruce,

As I believe confirmed, you do NOT want the (low profile)...........You want the what I would consider the "normal" (mini) which is the one on the right side of my picture.
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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moscooter View Post


I was hot to make this mod and thought no sweat, I've added a mini tap before. Stopped at Advanced Auto yesterday and grabbed one off the rack. Today, I had already ground down the male connector to fit and added it to my new mini tap.

Plugged in a mini 7.5 fuse and started to plug it all in where the 20 amp circuit was. Would not go in the slot.

Took a harder look and could easily see why it would not go in.........

Note the label on left box versus right box. I never knew there were multiple sizes of "mini" fuses.
SO now that you got the correct size fuse tap, does it work to your satisfaction?
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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoprof View Post
SO now that you got the correct size fuse tap, does it work to your satisfaction?


Yup, it works just fine. Cut the ignition switch and my GPS on windshield and my Radar detector also on windshield both shut down.

Thanks for the tip.
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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 07:22 PM
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My SSR:
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I'd like to make this mod on our 2005 R but after reading all of the posts I'm still not quite clear if or how it can be done. If so, if anyone has a diagram and/or photo of an '05 modified this way, that would be terrific.

TIA!
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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
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I'd like to make this mod on our 2005 R but after reading all of the posts I'm still not quite clear if or how it can be done. If so, if anyone has a diagram and/or photo of an '05 modified this way, that would be terrific.

TIA!

I gotta get mine out to wash after the jaunt to Maggie V. Gotta get 'er done before it gets into the 90's today.

I'll try and snap a pic of my fuse box and give you the specific slots that I used. Get to the Auto Store and pick up a mini tap as shown in above posts.
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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:31 AM
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My SSR:
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On my SSR HOW TO LIBRARY: By Ed Borland

Step by Step: May help with install.

https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?...ue&app=WordPdf

HOW TO LIBRARY:

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

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Remember 03/04 wiring/software is "Different" from 05/06. Engine fuse boxes are not interchangeable.


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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:49 AM
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How I followed Autoprofs advice



Don't get confused cause you see three different fuse "taps" in this picture. Simply turn the fuse box door so you can follow the diagram on the back side of the door.

That diagram will show you exactly where fuse #46 is located, take the 7.5 amp fuse that (came with the tap package) and put it into the top slot. As he said, be sure to have the tap wire exiting to the front and then run that wire (with the "modified"/ground down to fit) male stud and plug that into the right hand side of #44.

Now, you should have "switched" power to those two outlets instead of always being "hot".
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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moscooter View Post


Don't get confused cause you see three different fuse "taps" in this picture. Simply turn the fuse box door so you can follow the diagram on the back side of the door.

That diagram will show you exactly where fuse #46 is located, pull that fuse out and put it into the bottom slot of fuse tap and take the 7.5 amp fuse that (came with the tap package) and put it into the top slot. As he said, be sure to have the tap wire exiting to the front and then run that wire (with the "modified"/ground down to fit) male stud and plug that into the right hand side of #44.

Now, you should have "switched" power to those two outlets instead of always being "hot".
That's awesome for us "visual learner" types!

So just to be sure I got this, here are a couple of DIY images. If I've finally gotten it through my thick head, I'm off to the auto parts store (again)!
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