HVAC Stuck in Defrost Mode - Page 2 - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #31 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 02:46 PM
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Wow, sounds kind of scary to me! You're cruising at 70 mph or so traffic all around you and all of the sudden you hear the top trying to open? Scareeeee!!!!!!

Dave
Yes, exactly what happened on many occasions until I removed it and installed a different model. Odd, some people had no problems with it and some like me had tons. Just power and ground wires .... I tried shielding the wires and unit, moved the location, etc to no avail.

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Originally Posted by Joshvette View Post
Is there any chance that removing and reinstalling the lower dash could bump the Mode Actuator?
No, those actuators are encased in plastic, are hard to get to, and are a long distance from where you are working. If you hear a constant clicking from under the dash area it would mean a broken tooth in the motor, but to have the unit cycle as normal during self test and not work during normal operation is just really odd.
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post #32 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 02:49 PM
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post #33 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, exactly what happened on many occasions until I removed it and installed a different model. Odd, some people had no problems with it and some like me had tons. Just power and ground wires .... I tried shielding the wires and unit, moved the location, etc to no avail.


No, those actuators are encased in plastic, are hard to get to, and are a long distance from where you are working. If you hear a constant clicking from under the dash area it would mean a broken tooth in the motor, but to have the unit cycle as normal during self test and not work during normal operation is just really odd.
I still have the OEM bulbs and just for kicks I will reinstall the one that is messing up just to see if it changes back to normal?

I just don't want to solder too many times on the same connection.

If by some freak deal it's the LED's I'll definitely lower the one and try it again. I'll update you guys tonight or tomorrow.

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post #34 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:28 PM
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I think it would only happen once with me! You've got nerves of steel!

Dave
Well, it was very intermittent, it did not occur until after a few weeks after installation. Then when I figured it out I tried to correct the problem, I would think I fixed it until a few days or weeks later when it reoccured.

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Originally Posted by Joshvette View Post
I just don't want to solder too many times on the same connection.
Agreed, usually not a problem if you have a controlled heat source but using an iron sometimes puts a little too much in there. Just snip off the tall one, and see what happens, no need for the iron. If you can snip off or unsolder just one leg of the lower one I would do that too. You can always reconnect the leg with a dab of solder, you just want to prevent the electrical path so it does not turn on and test the theory.
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post #35 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:37 PM
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You changed OEM bulbs for LED, right.

Does LED change the resistance to the Electronic Alfa Ramiro Control Circuit??

Just a question.

Dicktator
I believe that it's part of the turbo incabulator and should not effect the Alfa Ramiro control.


Sorry couldn't resist.
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post #36 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Agreed, usually not a problem if you have a controlled heat source but using an iron sometimes puts a little too much in there. Just snip off the tall one, and see what happens, no need for the iron. If you can snip off or unsolder just one leg of the lower one I would do that too. You can always reconnect the leg with a dab of solder, you just want to prevent the electrical path so it does not turn on and test the theory.
Ok, so I just desoldered the LED completely and tried to reinstall the OEM bulb however I couldn't get it perfectly smooth for the socket to seat on the connection well enough so I don't think it even lit up, or it was just too dim to be noticed (which is probably the case)

So with the OEM bulb it still did the exact same thing, so I think that rules out the LED theory. Thanks for the input though, I'll just wait on Greg's (Texasbaehr) spare HVAC module and plug it in next and that should tell us everything we need to know.

Now that I'm listening there's a very faint very rapid knocking noise coming from the far right of the dash, but it doesn't sound like somethings wrong just like a the system is turning on and it doesn't last more then a second or two I think.

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post #37 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 08:08 PM
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I agree with dragon, the u shaped stand offs look like they could be a hall effect type magnetic switch. Depending on which combination of the three was on versus off would provide for 8 different inputs that is interpreted by the processor as to desired mode selection.

Does a part of the rotating assembly slide inside the "u" that would trigger the switch?
And is it possible something is reassembled out of phase?
Like 180 or 120 degrees off.?
Again, I never disassembled one so I don't know if all components are indexed. Just a wild and guess.??????
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post #38 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with dragon, the u shaped stand offs look like they could be a hall effect type magnetic switch. Depending on which combination of the three was on versus off would provide for 8 different inputs that is interpreted by the processor as to desired mode selection.

Does a part of the rotating assembly slide inside the "u" that would trigger the switch?
And is it possible something is reassembled out of phase?
Like 180 or 120 degrees off.?
Again, I never disassembled one so I don't know if all components are indexed. Just a wild and guess.??????
Yes, it's slides inside that U but it's got stops so can't really get it out of phase. I'm about 99% sure it's in the correct order.

It's hard to describe how it works (because of my lack of background in this area) but its' not too crazy complicated when you see how it works.

(I'll attempt to explain, here goes)

The black sleeve fits around the outside of the white cylindrical shaped dial.

The black twin tower sensor has that U shaped divide in the middle which is where the dial fits into. The dial also clips into the circuit board planting it.

The dial is stationary covering the inner tower sensor while the sleeve slides around the outside of the dial as you turn the knob and it somehow passes inside of the outer tower sensor which I assume communicates to get hot or cold, speed up or down, or select the different modes.

There are also stops in the box that only allow the sleeve to go so far in each direction and the sleeves are specific to each dial. For example the Mode sleeve will not work properly with the Temperature sleeve. So if you put the wrong sleeve with the wrong dials it won't work properly..... don't ask me how I figure that part out.... But I've got them on correctly.

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post #39 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 10:18 PM
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Josh
Just a thought I had driving home from my night class.
Should have known you tried various combinations.
Thought it would be worth a shot.
I'm done, best of luck. I believe other module will bring back normal operation but I was always one to want to know why, what failed. Whenever possible.

I'm sure you will keep us informed.

Incidently I like the look you have been able to achieve so far.
Too cool!
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post #40 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Josh
Just a thought I had driving home from my night class.
Should have known you tried various combinations.
Thought it would be worth a shot.
I'm done, best of luck. I believe other module will bring back normal operation but I was always one to want to know why, what failed. Whenever possible.

I'm sure you will keep us informed.

Incidently I like the look you have been able to achieve so far.
Too cool!
Thanks, I love to be different and make my R my own. When I saw how cool the dash looked after the new stepper motors went in and LED's I said I have to do it all this way now....

Thanks for all your input. One thing Dicktator and Texasbaehr mentioned was some circuit boards possibly using light bulbs as a resistor and swapping to LED's which are one directional with built in resistors could possibly effect things.... I hope not cause I've done this in everything now but the steering wheel with no issues so I really hope it's just something I bumped and damaged to be honest.

I see this going down 1 or 2 ways. The new control module will work fine and I'll have to pony up and swap it and decide if I want to chance swapping the lights again.... or the issue really is the Mode Actuator and I have a big dash pulling party.....

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post #41 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 01:05 AM
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Gotta pay your dues if you wanna show the blues
You know it don't come easy
Shouldn’t bother to shout, or curse about
You can't display them easy.

That desire of yours keeps growing
And you know it don't come easy
Think of how the dash will be glowing
You can even display them pleasy

Here it is within your reach now
If you're smart enough to figure out how
Gotta pay your dues just to show the blues
And you know it don't come easy.
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post #42 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 04:47 AM
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Good luck Josh.

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post #43 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 05:58 AM
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Thanks for all your input. One thing Dicktator and Texasbaehr mentioned was some circuit boards possibly using light bulbs as a resistor and swapping to LED's which are one directional with built in resistors could possibly effect things....
I really cannot see how the lighting circuit would have anything to do with the control of anything else on the board but stranger things have happened. There are quire a few IC chips on the board, so maybe one of them has a cracked connection, dirt of flux making contact where it should not, or maybe another set of LEDs is causing issues. Should not be a static grounding issue for the ICs while handling but then again......

I can totally understand the desire to make replacement lighting bright but I am not so sure about using those 3 COB LED boards in there. Using a normal flat top or other type of epoxied bulb LED should put out enough light for use in that area.

If swapping out the controllers work, as mentioned earlier, I would snip a leg off of all the LEDs you installed so that none of them can light and see what happens. I kind of hope the new controller does not help, that way you can keep the LEDs and move your attention to the doors. Wish you good luck in the solution, I can't offer much more being so far away....


Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
Gotta pay your dues if you wanna show the blues
You know it don't come easy
Shouldn’t bother to shout, or curse about
You can't display them easy.

That desire of yours keeps growing
And you know it don't come easy
Think of how the dash will be glowing
You can even display them pleasy

Here it is within your reach now
If you're smart enough to figure out how
Gotta pay your dues just to show the blues
And you know it don't come easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guzzi Guy View Post
"I fell in to a burning ring of fire, I went down down down and the flames went higher and it burns burns burns that ring of fire, that ring of fire". LOL

Good luck Josh.

Dave
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post #44 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 06:08 AM
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There are also stops in the box that only allow the sleeve to go so far in each direction and the sleeves are specific to each dial. For example the Mode sleeve will not work properly with the Temperature sleeve. So if you put the wrong sleeve with the wrong dials it won't work properly..... don't ask me how I figure that part out.... But I've got them on correctly.
Josh
SORRY to bother with a Another wild thought driving back in for my morning class. I am now thinking and questioning out loud
The sleeves may only work on each dial but can they be installed upside down - looked at dicktator's PP on removal of control module and the top of each sleeve looks different - I could not tell from his pictures or yours how the sleeves go on.
I'll be the first to admit that I have installed things the way I thought they went only to find out something weird was happening after repair (a toothed ring between crank gears for cam belt and balance shaft belt on a 2.4 hyundai can go either way - engine will run lots, of power - but ping. I know! )

Maybe I should turn my radio up louder while I drive to and from work - then maybe I wouldn't come up with these wild ideas --
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post #45 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Josh
SORRY to bother with a Another wild thought driving back in for my morning class. I am now thinking and questioning out loud
The sleeves may only work on each dial but can they be installed upside down - looked at dicktator's PP on removal of control module and the top of each sleeve looks different - I could not tell from his pictures or yours how the sleeves go on.
I'll be the first to admit that I have installed things the way I thought they went only to find out something weird was happening after repair (a toothed ring between crank gears for cam belt and balance shaft belt on a 2.4 hyundai can go either way - engine will run lots, of power - but ping. I know! )

Maybe I should turn my radio up louder while I drive to and from work - then maybe I wouldn't come up with these wild ideas --

No they can't go on upside down. Next time you turn your knobs notice how you feel little bumps or clicks, that's due to a nodule and tiny depressions in the floor of the box and there's only one side of the sleeve that has that tiny nodule that rubs over those depressions causing it to bump into place like when you turn the speed up from 1-5 five. There's five little depressions that nodule rubs over to keep it on that number.

So no can't really install it upside down and have it fit or work.

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post #46 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
Gotta pay your dues if you wanna show the blues
You know it don't come easy
Shouldn’t bother to shout, or curse about
You can't display them easy.

That desire of yours keeps growing
And you know it don't come easy
Think of how the dash will be glowing
You can even display them pleasy

Here it is within your reach now
If you're smart enough to figure out how
Gotta pay your dues just to show the blues
And you know it don't come easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guzzi Guy View Post
"I fell in to a burning ring of fire, I went down down down and the flames went higher and it burns burns burns that ring of fire, that ring of fire". LOL

Good luck Josh.

Dave



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post #47 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE!!! FIXED!!!!

Thanks very much to Texasbaehr for mailing me your spare HVAC control module.

So I figured out what the problem is, fixed it and now it's running perfect as it always has. All the air is blowing out of all the vents and all the dials work as designed. No more defrost mode.

So the issue was (drum roll).................. ME.

When I was testing to find the positive connections I'm 95% sure I bumped something that I should not have and I do remember a tiny tiny tiny little spark that I wasn't sure was even a spark or the LED's flickering as I touch them to the connectors and I'm pretty sure that I fried something that communicates to the Mode Actuator or something related.

Anyways, since I already know where all the positive connections are I went ahead and chanced installing the blue LED's and white push button LED's. I just love the way they look too much to not chance it. They all work perfect. Very happy I did. It's definitely easier when you know where the positive and negative connections are.

Thanks everyone for everything.

Josh

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post #48 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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Now i just have the steering wheel buttons left and I'll be officially finished with the full interior color conversion.


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post #49 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 03:05 AM
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Great job, looks fantastic.
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post #50 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 05:49 AM
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looking good glad you got it fixed also
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post #51 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 08:14 AM
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Very Nice!----very persistent! Thats hanging in there!!

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post #52 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Great job, looks fantastic.
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looking good glad you got it fixed also
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Very Nice!----very persistent! Thats hanging in there!!

Nick
Thanks everyone. It was a project that's for sure.

Glad it's back up and running normal.

Do what's right not what's easy....
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post #53 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:09 PM
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Joshvette,

Now that you got it down pat, let me know when I can drop mine off and when I can pick it up. lol


Dave
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post #54 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Joshvette,

Now that you got it down pat, let me know when I can drop mine off and when I can pick it up. lol


Dave
Right on, I've actually thought of offering this as a service for SSR's. Not sure how much interest there might be though considering all the parts have to be removed and mailed back and forth.

They have more colors too, the LED lights come in bright white, ice blue, dark blue (mine), red, green, yellow, pink and I think purple.

Wouldn't know what to charge either?? Was thinking like $10 per light maybe, I don't know?

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post #55 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 07:19 PM
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Sooooooooo, what are you gonna do for its first birthday?
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post #56 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Sooooooooo, what are you gonna do for its first birthday?
Umm.... nothing, it's just a car....


Just teasing, I don't know, maybe take her to get dyno'd or something fun like that.

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post #57 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:32 PM
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Umm.... nothing, it's just a car....


Just teasing, I don't know, maybe take her to get dyno'd or something fun like that.

Now, I think you do need to change the radio
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post #58 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 09:50 PM
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I think she's due a day off after all she's been through.
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post #59 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 08:12 PM
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I'm getting a little desperate, since I can't afford a big bill right now - Help - I have the heater diverter door motor clicking problem, and need to replace the motor, OR, I wonder if there is a way to just disable it, other than not setting your fan speed to zero? i.e., disconnect something, cut a wire...?
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post #60 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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I'm getting a little desperate, since I can't afford a big bill right now - Help - I have the heater diverter door motor clicking problem, and need to replace the motor, OR, I wonder if there is a way to just disable it, other than not setting your fan speed to zero? i.e., disconnect something, cut a wire...?
William, if you start a separate thread with the problems you're having you'll probably get a better response. Try that, I'm sure everyone will be glad to help you out.


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