Key stuck in ignition - Chevy SSR Forum
 3Likes
  • 1 Post By birdmans
  • 2 Post By Sebastian21
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sebastian21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 151


Key stuck in ignition

2004 SSR. Can not remove key. Restart a few times and key will sometime come out other times no. Throwing code P2761, P0758, P0740, P0785, P0753. Runs and shifts perfect. Ignition switch changed 3 years ago. Could this be a bad ignition switch?
Sebastian21 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 03:32 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Belvidere, New Jersey
Posts: 5,218


My SSR:
Sadly sold '03 RED vin1337, '06(lastoneinblack) vin 24107..Sadly sold '04UV,'05SILVER,'06PACBLU FPR
Try moving the shifter out of and back into park with the truck not running, while turning the key back to off position.
But more than likely it is the ignition switch again.
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Bl...ansmission.pdf
ssrtruck is offline  
post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sebastian21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 151


I let SSR sit for two weeks while I had heart surgery Battey ran down. Put battey tender on it and truck started fine. Wife drove to work check engine light came showing above codes. Jiggled shift handle and key came out. Wife drove it today and key came out first time. Restarted and could not remove key. Drove around yard and key came out.
Sebastian21 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:11 PM
Member
 
hotroddodd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: WINTER GARDEN FLORIDA, JUST BEHIND DISNEY WORLD
Posts: 430


My SSR:
2004 SMOKIN' ASPHALT
Garage
If your battery is low the Key will not come out I think is correct too
hotroddodd is offline  
post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:24 PM
Super Road Rocket Pilot
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Dragon2U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 5,643


My SSR:
Empty Garage - Previous 03 04 05 owner - on hunt for next one ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroddodd View Post
If your battery is low the Key will not come out I think is correct too
I think I agree with this analogy. The key will get stuck with a low battery. Sounds like if there is a battery tender on it or a long drive it is okay but short distance or sitting in garage is an issue. If battery is over 4 years old I would swap it out or at least have it tested properly. If it tests good then start more troubleshooting.

Add your location on Fanatic PINMAP and locate others
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Dragon2U is offline  
post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:31 PM
ONE OWNER !!!!
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
James Dean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Kittanning,Pa
Posts: 34,632


My SSR:
2004 Smokin' Asphalt #11150
Garage
I agree weak battery or loose connection on the battery cables !!!!!!!!

Jim & Sherrie

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
James Dean & Misstadoo
"Blessings can be big or small, but be sure to count them all”
James Dean is online now  
post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:37 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,383


My SSR:
2003/red
I have been reading all of the IGN SWITCH posts for over 3 years. Burnt connections in the switch seems to be the problem????????? I assume why the switch [was] changed and up graded........IMWO It is starting the truck with less than proper current???? I keep a very inexpensive meter in the Cig. socket. Meter sells on ebay and other sites for $4 to $6 dollars and also has an inside temp guage in [C]. If the gauge reads less than 12 volts I charge the battery before starting the truck. A bad ground could also make a low voltage problem? You really want the meter to read 12.5 or higher......? Most of the time the truck is hooked up to a tender.......The trucks will probably start down to aprox.......10 + volts........But I think that is what is damaging the IGN. switches????????? I also have a 2002 Chey Avalanche. Aprox the same set-up. The truck is still on the original switch. I keep one of the inexpensive meters in the Avalanche. Much easier to buy the inexpensive meter than have the problem and keep changing Ign. Switches..........

BIRD............Old but not done yet?
flamminnanner06 likes this.
birdmans is offline  
post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 09:11 AM
SSR Pit Crew
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
flamminnanner06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Hickory, NC
Posts: 106


My SSR:
2006 Slingshot Yellow 3SS Born 12/16/2005 #189
Garage
Meter

Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmans View Post
I have been reading all of the IGN SWITCH posts for over 3 years. Burnt connections in the switch seems to be the problem????????? I assume why the switch [was] changed and up graded........IMWO It is starting the truck with less than proper current???? I keep a very inexpensive meter in the Cig. socket. Meter sells on ebay and other sites for $4 to $6 dollars and also has an inside temp guage in [C]. If the gauge reads less than 12 volts I charge the battery before starting the truck. A bad ground could also make a low voltage problem? You really want the meter to read 12.5 or higher......? Most of the time the truck is hooked up to a tender.......The trucks will probably start down to aprox.......10 + volts........But I think that is what is damaging the IGN. switches????????? I also have a 2002 Chey Avalanche. Aprox the same set-up. The truck is still on the original switch. I keep one of the inexpensive meters in the Avalanche. Much easier to buy the inexpensive meter than have the problem and keep changing Ign. Switches..........

BIRD............Old but not done yet?
Bird, the meter sounds like a great idea....could we get a little more info....nomenclature...thx...an ole grunt

flamminnanner06
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
flamminnanner06 is offline  
post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sebastian21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 151


Checked voltage of battery, it is 12.5. Would trying to start when the battey was dead damaged the ignitation switch. I installed a ignitation switch 3 years ago when I put in a new battery.
Sebastian21 is offline  
post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 11:57 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Belvidere, New Jersey
Posts: 5,218


My SSR:
Sadly sold '03 RED vin1337, '06(lastoneinblack) vin 24107..Sadly sold '04UV,'05SILVER,'06PACBLU FPR
After checking the usual ground connections ( frame rail near battery, also corrosion at battery terminals), and the one under driver door(on frame rail) , I would have the battery tested (cca,ca, state of health) and look into getting another ignition switch.
Time, you say 3 years, really has nothing to do with the switch. How often it was cycled, and what current was feeding it, over that period, may have burned the contacts inside.
These codes it has seem to follow poor voltage to the TCM. Ignition switch is cheap enough to change and rule out as culprit.( I know, I know, it sounds like a parts changer statement and not a clinical diagnostic procedure).
ssrtruck is offline  
post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sebastian21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 151


I agree that new ignitation switch is a cheap try so I am going to change it out.
Sebastian21 is offline  
post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 12:52 PM
Super Road Rocket Pilot
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Dragon2U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 5,643


My SSR:
Empty Garage - Previous 03 04 05 owner - on hunt for next one ;)
Volts are important but you need to worry about amps for battery too. I would have it stress tested but there are obviously other things to check as well.

Add your location on Fanatic PINMAP and locate others
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Dragon2U is offline  
post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 02:14 PM
SSR Pit Crew
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Dicktator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Clearwater, Fl
Posts: 11,244


My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Ignition switch MUST see 9volts for everything to work properly. EVERYTHING goes thru ignition switch.

I change battery/ignition switch every 4 yrs if I need to or not.

Once battery runs down, yes, can and usually does cause damage to switch.

Like said above, check grounds, change switch and I would put in NEW battery.

SSR How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

1. FIVE points on switch, like our old distributor points that "Burn", we would file, gap and try again.
2. Make sure switch has one WHITE cover. A/C DELCO D1426D There are CHEAP switches out there.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	267474d1440973917-ingition-switch-really-only-mechanical-img_1326.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	171.8 KB
ID:	395769   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_6543.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	88.9 KB
ID:	395777  


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Dicktator is online now  
post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sebastian21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 151


Thanks to all fo the information. I have a 24 year old Engeering student coming over tomorrow to change it out. I had heart surgery three weeks ago and my doctor will not even let me sit in the car. Lost a lot of weight but I can not recommend heart surgery as a diet. What I do recommend is life line screening to prevent heart attacks as these bypasses are not fun.
Sebastian21 is offline  
post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 08:24 PM
SSR Pit Crew
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
nj6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Forney tx
Posts: 2,965


My SSR:
2006 #107 of 199 Smokin Asphalt FPR's bought 6-18-2014; Kathy's '04 Ultra Violet Bought 2-1-'17
Garage
Good luck, and hope you get yourself back in shape soon!

Nick
nj6969 is online now  
post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 07:09 AM
SSR Pit Crew
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Dicktator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Clearwater, Fl
Posts: 11,244


My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian21 View Post
Thanks to all fo the information. I have a 24 year old Engeering student coming over tomorrow to change it out. I had heart surgery three weeks ago and my doctor will not even let me sit in the car. Lost a lot of weight but I can not recommend heart surgery as a diet. What I do recommend is life line screening to prevent heart attacks as these bypasses are not fun.
I am going in for Open Heart Surgery soon. If we ever get paper work done.

Calcified Valve but Heart is very strong and is not laboring.

They caught it early.

Dicktator


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Dicktator is online now  
post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 12:45 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Belvidere, New Jersey
Posts: 5,218


My SSR:
Sadly sold '03 RED vin1337, '06(lastoneinblack) vin 24107..Sadly sold '04UV,'05SILVER,'06PACBLU FPR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
I am going in for Open Heart Surgery soon. If we ever get paper work done.

Calcified Valve but Heart is very strong and is not laboring.

They caught it early.

Dicktator
Ice cream and Capt' Jack , good for the ticker.
ssrtruck is offline  
post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sebastian21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 151


I will bring it up to my doctor but I think he may disagree a Thank you
Sebastian21 is offline  
post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 04:26 PM
Daily Driver
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
xoxoxoBruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: DelCo, PA
Posts: 8,658


My SSR:
'06- Silver/Copper- 121421
With wives and doctors it's easier to get forgiveness than permission.

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
xoxoxoBruce is offline  
post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sebastian21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 151


When the battery goes dead it affects the igination switch. Changed the ignitation switch and no more codes. Every thing came to life. So problem solved.
James Dean and Foodman like this.
Sebastian21 is offline  
post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:35 PM
ONE OWNER !!!!
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
James Dean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Kittanning,Pa
Posts: 34,632


My SSR:
2004 Smokin' Asphalt #11150
Garage
Great News!!!!!!!!

Jim & Sherrie

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
James Dean & Misstadoo
"Blessings can be big or small, but be sure to count them all”
James Dean is online now  
post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 12:42 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: 25 miles NW of BangBangBaltimore, a wide spot in the road called Finksburg.
Posts: 21


My SSR:
SlingShot Yellow, 2005, Six Speed, Unmolested!
Garage
Thank you, again, for all the good and useful info...
Two quick questions (for now):
Where can I get a new ignition switch for my 2005 SSR 6 speed and what model Termec trans do I have.
I'm learning to live with the "heart beat" under the dash caused by a missing tooth.
I leave the AC circulation on and the fan switch at 1.
But thanks to ya'll I at least know what the problem is.
Thanks again...
Brian
BoxerCup is offline  
post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 01:20 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Belvidere, New Jersey
Posts: 5,218


My SSR:
Sadly sold '03 RED vin1337, '06(lastoneinblack) vin 24107..Sadly sold '04UV,'05SILVER,'06PACBLU FPR
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxerCup View Post
Thank you, again, for all the good and useful info...
Two quick questions (for now):
Where can I get a new ignition switch for my 2005 SSR 6 speed and what model Termec trans do I have.
I'm learning to live with the "heart beat" under the dash caused by a missing tooth.
I leave the AC circulation on and the fan switch at 1.
But thanks to ya'll I at least know what the problem is.
Thanks again...
Brian
The ignition switch that should be used is AC DELCO D1426D. They can be purchased through a GM dealer, or Rock Auto. Dicktator also has them available. Cost should be about $30. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432206&jsn=607
Only use this brand and number. The new switch has to have a grey cover with the part number on it. If it is all black, it is the older version, and should NOT be used.
The SSR transmission is T56, but is beefed up with a larger output shaft than the one used in Camaros.
Here is some info posted by TOPSPIN regarding our T56...https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/6...pgrades-51552/
ssrtruck is offline  
post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 03:16 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 58


My SSR:
Jinx 2006 Pacific Blue
Just got my 2006 a month or so ago, and have been working through a few issues. One is a key that will not always come out. The R starts strong, so I am pretty sure no battery issues. Sometimes the key will decide to come out, but I have removed the bottom of the steering column to get at the magic bronze button to release it if really stuck. I have had success jiggling the shifter, so I am suspecting the park solenoid. It seems like a real PIA to change, thinking if it could be the ignition switch, this is much easier to pay for and install.

Looking for some thoughts on a better way to debug it, or just replace the ignition switch as a starting point?

As a newbie, many thanks to Dicktator for his awesome efforts in putting how toos out there!
StLDave is offline  
post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:28 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 58


My SSR:
Jinx 2006 Pacific Blue
Quick update, hey I need the post count!

I bought an ignition switch to replace mine, waiting for some warmer weather to do it. In the meantime, I have had NO issues with my key sticking. Must know what is going on!
StLDave is offline  
post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 07:47 AM
SSR Pit Crew
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Dicktator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Clearwater, Fl
Posts: 11,244


My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
There are two subject here.

1. Ignition Switch MUST see 9 volts for everything to work correctly, 12 volt battery leaves ONLY 3 volt margin to cause problem.
Suggest you always run engine when operating roof, takes 13 amps to run roof, draws down battery quickly.
Battery goes bad, burns points on ignition switch (5 sets), NEW Battery, NEW Ignition switch, be sure you buy/get ACDelco D1426D. There are "Knock-offs" out there. One BLACK cover, One GREY cover means it is the UP GRADED GM switch. Original Ignition switches had poor contact material, they were ALL failing. GM change point material to tungsten and all is good. Still do have problem when your Battery goes BAD! I change Battery AND ignition switch every 4 years to avoid a problem. My 04 is 13 years OLD last month with 126,000 miles.

2. Key won't always come out is usually caused by battery dead or below 9 volts.
Three things to start R, Key in ignition, Press Brake, Shift in Park.
The Shift Lever "pushes" plastic linkage to activate Park Release Actuator, IF and it has happened many times, plastic linkage becomes "worn" it will not "Push" release far enough to complete the series to get out of PARK.
If your R won't start and now you can't get key out, can't get out of Park to tow, pull up shift lever cover and reach down, passengers side, press in silver BUTTON to release from Park. Key should come out. OR, to just release Key, remove bottom half of steering column, push Brass button to release Key.

On my SSR How to Library.
https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Just some information that my be helpful.

Dicktator

1. Ignition switch showing 5 sets of points.
2. Brass button to push to release key.
3. Plastic/nylon linkage to release Shifter from PARK
4. Remove shift cover, passengers side, reach down push IN Park Actuator Silver Button to release from PARK.
5. Chip Foose likes my SSR.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	267474d1440973917-ingition-switch-really-only-mechanical-img_1326.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	171.8 KB
ID:	400570   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_6536.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	106.6 KB
ID:	400578   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_6779.jpg
Views:	186
Size:	151.7 KB
ID:	400586   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_6764.jpg
Views:	173
Size:	94.1 KB
ID:	400594   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3797.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	128.5 KB
ID:	400602  



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Dicktator is online now  
post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 09:24 AM
SSR Pit Crew
Supporting Member
 
carlbush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Atlantic Beach, FL
Posts: 791


My SSR:
2005 Ricochet Silver
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by StLDave View Post
Just got my 2006 a month or so ago, and have been working through a few issues. One is a key that will not always come out. The R starts strong, so I am pretty sure no battery issues. Sometimes the key will decide to come out, but I have removed the bottom of the steering column to get at the magic bronze button to release it if really stuck. I have had success jiggling the shifter, so I am suspecting the park solenoid. It seems like a real PIA to change, thinking if it could be the ignition switch, this is much easier to pay for and install.

Looking for some thoughts on a better way to debug it, or just replace the ignition switch as a starting point?

As a newbie, many thanks to Dicktator for his awesome efforts in putting how toos out there!
StLDave, replacing the shifter solenoid is not as much a PITA as you might think. I replaced mine and only had to remove the shifter cover to access the compartment. I documented the process here.

Good luck, Carl
carlbush is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Chevy SSR Forum > SSR Discussion > SSR Technical Discussion

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy SSR Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome