Super Road Rocket Pilot
Join Date: Jul 2005
Empty Garage - Previous 03 04 05 owner - on hunt for next one ;)
I seriously doubt parts replaced 15 years ago have anything to do with your current problem. Is the truck 100% stock or has there been some aftermarket equipment installed anywhere? Could be a ton of things that can cause this. Everyone that has mentioned a part is correct, it could be that part or this part. The problem is, if the dealer cannot replicate the draw on the system you will be hard pressed to find the underlying cause. You can start replacing parts until the cows come home and spend a ton of money on it but you need to pinpoint the problem to repair it effectively. Door switches, computer, tailgate, glovebox door light, key switch, sensor a, sensor b, etc.....
If the battery is new then I would write that one off. They need to start, stop, open and shut doors and tailgate, turn radio on play with ignition switch, etc all the time recording the amperage draw on the battery when things are turned off. The one thing that is shut off that leaves a draw on the system is the culprit. If the dealer cannot properly troubleshoot it you need to either go to another dealer or find someone who is willing to spend time on it to figure things out.
If you have some time and a few dollars you can likely pinpoint the problem as well. Get a good voltmeter with an amps setting or just get an ampmeter. Take off your red battery cable from the red box in the truck engine bay. Connect one end of the tester to the cable and the other to the other wire it was connected to. If you get a high draw right away then you can start pulling fuses until the meter shows no more draw on the system. The system that is related to the fuse you pull to release the draw is related to your problem. Fuse boxes in engine bay and behind passenger seat. You can then start to eliminate things from there. If there is no draw ......
Take a reading with the truck completely shut down with all doors closed for 30 minutes, tell us what it is.
Open a door, shut a door, take a reading. Do it for all doors several times. Record when you shut door and after a few minutes after system should be asleep.
Turn the key off, wiggle the key in the switch, what does the meter read?
Press the brake pedal and release, take a reading
Open the tailgate and close it, take a reading.
Something you close or actuate will leave a lot of amps on the system after it is closed or shut off. You need to find it by testing over and over again until you get it to repeat.
The dealer will likely not take the time to do it correctly unless the tech spends a lot of time playing around with it. It will likely be costly if it is a very intermittent issue. If you can get it to replicate every time you drive it but they cannot, you must be doing something different then they are. Closing a door lighter, leaving keys in ignition, etc.......