No Low beams - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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No Low beams

Hi folks, I've been searching all day and have not found the answer I'm needing so I'll post it here.

My DLR's work fine as do my High beams. But when I turn on my headlights, the light's stay in the dimmed DLR low light output. I cannot see the roadway at night at all unless I use high beams. I've checked all of the fuses, replaced the low beam bulbs but the problem persists.

TIA,
Dano
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 10:02 PM
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Do the fog lights work. They only function with the low beams powered up so, without chasing the circuits, I would say if they work then the problem is near the lights or a relay which is not involved in the fog light circuit. Maybe @Autoprof has researched the Low beam and fog light circuits and has some input.


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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 10:06 PM
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My two cents....

Hey Dino,

The low beams are fed by the “HDM” fuse (fuse #14) then through the “HDM Relay” (relay #47). The HDM relay is pulled in by a 12vdc signal from the Body Control Module. Ground for the HDM relay is G101 on the schematic.

Take a look at your underhood fuse box and locate relay #47. There is probably a second relay in the fuse box with the same part number on its case...... if so, swap them to see if it fixes your problem.

If the relay and fuse are good, you may have a problem with the multi-function switch or wiring to the Body Control Module. The multi-function switch failure would be rare and a problem with the BCM Evan more rare..... let’s see what you find in the fuse box before we jump off the building.

Regards,

Mike
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
Hey Dino,

The low beams are fed by the “HDM” fuse (fuse #14) then through the “HDM Relay” (relay #47). The HDM relay is pulled in by a 12vdc signal from the Body Control Module. Ground for the HDM relay is G101 on the schematic.

Take a look at your underhood fuse box and locate relay #47. There is probably a second relay in the fuse box with the same part number on its case...... if so, swap them to see if it fixes your problem.

Regards,

Mike
I've replaced my HDM relay twice when the low beams went out and the drls did not work either when the relay went out. Its very odd that the drls would still function if bothe low beams are non op.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:16 AM
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What happens when the light sensor in the dash fails, would that prevent the lights from changing from DRL to low beam?

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak View Post
Do the fog lights work. They only function with the low beams powered up so, without chasing the circuits, I would say if they work then the problem is near the lights or a relay which is not involved in the fog light circuit. Maybe @Autoprof has researched the Low beam and fog light circuits and has some input.
Yes, the fog lights function just fine. Only the low beams don't transition from DRL to low beam.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
Hey Dino,

The low beams are fed by the “HDM” fuse (fuse #14) then through the “HDM Relay” (relay #47). The HDM relay is pulled in by a 12vdc signal from the Body Control Module. Ground for the HDM relay is G101 on the schematic.

Take a look at your underhood fuse box and locate relay #47. There is probably a second relay in the fuse box with the same part number on its case...... if so, swap them to see if it fixes your problem.

If the relay and fuse are good, you may have a problem with the multi-function switch or wiring to the Body Control Module. The multi-function switch failure would be rare and a problem with the BCM Evan more rare..... let’s see what you find in the fuse box before we jump off the building.

Regards,

Mike
Very good suggestions - test fuse and then relay. Unfortunately this relay is an oddball and there is no other one like it that I am aware of. See Picture #1
I will try to explain and show how to test the circuit - keep reading) Advance autoparts has it list as Low beam relay part #R6100 and is $29.99 -- fuse box labels it HDM relay. I believe its odd and pricey because it is a solid state relay and uses a transistor not a normal set of contacts. I think it is because of fuse box design and on the trailblazer this relay is modulated to provide a reduced current for DRL operation and they had a lot of problems and even a recall on trailblazers. I know, I have diagnosed more than a few of these.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasbaehr View Post
I've replaced my HDM relay twice when the low beams went out and the drls did not work either when the relay went out. Its very odd that the drls would still function if both low beams are non op.
The current supply for the DRL is from the 2 separate DRL relays (one for each side) that then feed lower current to the headlights after the HDM relay.
Marked in the diagram on picture #2 in the block that says DRL controls. I don't believe wiring diagram is very accurate (not uncommon) or the HDM relay should not have caused inoperable low beams.

Testing with black lead of voltmeter (Or test light alligator clip) connected to good ground (alternator bracket is good place) perform the following
With the headlights turned on to manual low beams
1. touch the red lead (or test light probe) to the top of both sides of fuse #14 (in highlighted box next to relay 47) - if voltage (or a light) on only one side fuse is blown, if 0 volts or no light check other fuses (or touch the battery wire bolted to back of alternator) to confirm you have a good ground, if no light move the ground connection around until you get voltage. Then try again --- If there is voltage or a light on both sides go to the relay next
2. Remove relay #47
3. Insert a small male terminal into the following slot (cavities) and test as I will explain. You can use a small cotter pin or even a needle as long as if fits into the slot without force but DO NOT try to force your voltmeter lead or test light probe into the slot - it might not go in far enough or it might distort the female terminal.
4. With voltmeter still connected to ground check the slot labeled 40H (power from the fuse) and 1970 (power from the body control module) on the diagram in the highlighted box. Voltage at both locations indicates fuse box circuits and multifuction switch to body control module circuit is ok.
5. Now with the red lead still connected to slot 40H move the black lead to slot 450 (this will require another test terminal) If test light lights your ground is good and if it passed previous tests you can be confident if the wiring diagram were correct your relay is faulty. If the test light does not light on this last test you need to find and repair the ground wire.

OR You could just go spend $30 and cross your fingers --- not the way I do things or teach. As a customer if a technician did this and charged you for a relay (because he might not be able to return it) you would say they didn't know what they were doing.

if you find results other then what I listed please list your test results and I will go the next steps with you.

If you plug in a new relay and it doesn't fix it you will have to perform these tests before I can be anymore assistance other than just guessing and which part to replace next.

I hope this helped
Good luck -and let us know
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoprof View Post
Very good suggestions - test fuse and then relay. Unfortunately this relay is an oddball and there is no other one like it that I am aware of. See Picture #1
I will try to explain and show how to test the circuit - keep reading) Advance autoparts has it list as Low beam relay part #R6100 and is $29.99 -- fuse box labels it HDM relay. I believe its odd and pricey because it is a solid state relay and uses a transistor not a normal set of contacts. I think it is because of fuse box design and on the trailblazer this relay is modulated to provide a reduced current for DRL operation and they had a lot of problems and even a recall on trailblazers. I know, I have diagnosed more than a few of these.



The current supply for the DRL is from the 2 separate DRL relays (one for each side) that then feed lower current to the headlights after the HDM relay.
Marked in the diagram on picture #2 in the block that says DRL controls. I don't believe wiring diagram is very accurate (not uncommon) or the HDM relay should not have caused inoperable low beams.

Testing with black lead of voltmeter (Or test light alligator clip) connected to good ground (alternator bracket is good place) perform the following
With the headlights turned on to manual low beams
1. touch the red lead (or test light probe) to the top of both sides of fuse #14 (in highlighted box next to relay 47) - if voltage (or a light) on only one side fuse is blown, if 0 volts or no light check other fuses (or touch the battery wire bolted to back of alternator) to confirm you have a good ground, if no light move the ground connection around until you get voltage. Then try again --- If there is voltage or a light on both sides go to the relay next
2. Remove relay #47
3. Insert a small male terminal into the following slot (cavities) and test as I will explain. You can use a small cotter pin or even a needle as long as if fits into the slot without force but DO NOT try to force your voltmeter lead or test light probe into the slot - it might not go in far enough or it might distort the female terminal.
4. With voltmeter still connected to ground check the slot labeled 40H (power from the fuse) and 1970 (power from the body control module) on the diagram in the highlighted box. Voltage at both locations indicates fuse box circuits and multifuction switch to body control module circuit is ok.
5. Now with the red lead still connected to slot 40H move the black lead to slot 450 (this will require another test terminal) If test light lights your ground is good and if it passed previous tests you can be confident if the wiring diagram were correct your relay is faulty. If the test light does not light on this last test you need to find and repair the ground wire.

OR You could just go spend $30 and cross your fingers --- not the way I do things or teach. As a customer if a technician did this and charged you for a relay (because he might not be able to return it) you would say they didn't know what they were doing.

if you find results other then what I listed please list your test results and I will go the next steps with you.

If you plug in a new relay and it doesn't fix it you will have to perform these tests before I can be anymore assistance other than just guessing and which part to replace next.

I hope this helped
Good luck -and let us know
Good info. Fuse checked good as does Socket 40H to ground 12v (Fuse socket), Relay socket 40H - 12v, relay socket 40H to relay socket 450 - 12v, relay socket 1970 to ground - 0.03v.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:27 AM
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Think back to when this started happening. Had you changed anything. Another thing you might check is the sensor on the dash center. Sometimes folks install a dash mat cover or throw there gloves up there etc. and that messes the lights up. The other thing is it could be both bulbs went south at the same time. I would check plug in sockets to see if you have power there and if you do then it is the bulbs. I leave my headlight switch in the auto mode so whenever I start my SSR the lights automatically work as directed by the lighting conditions. Just some Ideas. Good luck.


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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano View Post
Good info. Fuse checked good as does Socket 40H to ground 12v (Fuse socket), Relay socket 40H - 12v, relay socket 40H to relay socket 450 - 12v, relay socket 1970 to ground - 0.03v.
CRAP --- not what we were hoping to find
Are you sure headlights were turned manually on low beam and not on high beam?
Can't really recall -- if it matters for low beams but I know it does for DRL == parking brake off.
AND just for grins repeat with key on. If too much time the BCM might have shut off headlights

Unfortunately - it appears that your BCM is not turning on your low beams OR the wiring diagram is wrong!
I afraid it might be the second one -- the description and operation from the service manual says the BCM controls the ground side of the relay while the wiring diagram shows the BCM supplies power to the relay??? I have included the description and operation from the service manual as the first picture.

NOTE the low beams come on a couple of different ways - manually from headlight switch, automatically from automatic lights using the sensor on the top of the dash, when in gear engine running with wipers on (must complete 3 cycles and then 35 second delay) and last as function of exit of vehicle or when programmed to do it using key fob. (see last sentence)

I have also included the symptom charts for low beams lights inoperable.

If you try to follow this chart -
After confirming both low beams are out. The next step is to test wiper automatic light control --- I would have a hose running on wipers so that I don't scratch the windshield or screw up the wiper blades when doing this test.

More confusing is looking though the tests you will find this chart has you testing as if the BCM grounds the relay BUT THAT IS NOT what the wiring diagram shows is happening??? One more THANK YOU GM.

I am going to go find a relay on one of our GMs to check circuit diagram of relay (I think our Avalance has this same relay)
I will post more information after I get a chance to do this

If unsuccessful, I will do some testing on my 04 this evening and report back

IN the meantime with relay reinstalled -- you might try the wiper operation lights or lighting exit/keyfob options to see if lights come on.
Also what do you find for voltage at fuses #3 and #5 (low beam fuses) if less then 12v - then DRL are on if 12v then relay is working.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auggie Doggie View Post
Think back to when this started happening. Had you changed anything. Another thing you might check is the sensor on the dash center. Sometimes folks install a dash mat cover or throw there gloves up there etc. and that messes the lights up. The other thing is it could be both bulbs went south at the same time. I would check plug in sockets to see if you have power there and if you do then it is the bulbs. I leave my headlight switch in the auto mode so whenever I start my SSR the lights automatically work as directed by the lighting conditions. Just some Ideas. Good luck.
Well I just got the SSR not too long ago but never had to drive it at night. The DLR's come on when they're supposed to and the high beams, fog lights, parking lights, TS all work as they should. I didn't know the DLR's didn't transition to low beams till just the other evening when I went to drive the car at night for the first time. I've already changed the bulbs but that didn't help. I was told to bring the SSR back to where I got it and they'll have their tech fix the issue. I was just hoping it was something minor that I could fix myself, but it appears it's going to be more than I hoped for.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:23 PM
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My SSR:
04 Redline #9973
OK so I found a relay -- unfortunately this one is defective - that is why I have it!

I attached some pictures of the relay showing the
pin (terminal) numbering and the diagram of the relay
terminals 5 and 6 ARE the control terminals as shown on the wiring diagram -
AND terminals 2 and 4 ARE the switched side of the relay to turn on low beams
I did not check the resistance between terminals 5 and 6 because of 2 things
I know this relay is bad so whatever reading I get it may not be correct and I am not sure what the resistance should be.

I will test my relay and my circuit after dinner this evening
I am curious which is correct - The circuit description and diagnostic chart or the wiring diagram!
Description and operation is Illustrated in attachment 3 -- copied from the manual
And
Wiring diagram shows a constant ground to G101 and the BCM switching power to terminal 5 of relay
attachment #4

I need to find out for my own sake -- its just the way I am

I am sure if you are taking it in for repairs the first thing they will do is replace the relay without any testing -- because its usually the problem. They can absorb the cost if its not fixed

I do not know if Advance (AutoZone or Oreillys) will accept a return on a non defective electrical part - I don't know I have only had to exchange defective electrical parts.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano View Post
Well I just got the SSR not too long ago but never had to drive it at night. The DLR's come on when they're supposed to and the high beams, fog lights, parking lights, TS all work as they should. I didn't know the DLR's didn't transition to low beams till just the other evening when I went to drive the car at night for the first time. I've already changed the bulbs but that didn't help. I was told to bring the SSR back to where I got it and they'll have their tech fix the issue. I was just hoping it was something minor that I could fix myself, but it appears it's going to be more than I hoped for.
I agree with you if it is a easy fix do it, but if complicated or expensive make them fix it for free. They are on the hook as it is a safety issue.


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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 04:16 PM
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"The current supply for the DRL is from the 2 separate DRL relays (one for each side) that then feed lower current to the headlights after the HDM relay.
Marked in the diagram on picture #2 in the block that says DRL controls. I don't believe wiring diagram is very accurate (not uncommon) or the HDM relay should not have caused inoperable low beams."

Autoprof, this baffled me too. When my low beams went out, the DRLs were out also. I went to the wiring diagram and saw the same thing. BUT, when I replaced the HDM relay everything worked. Either the wiring diagram is wrong or there is some logic in the BCM that prevents the DRLs from operating if the low beams are non op?? I bought several relays online and keep a spare in the glove box since mine has failed twice in two years.
Maybe its just my SSR but when the RDM relay went out or one low beam fuse blew, my windows would not index either??? There is no electrical relationship between the two. Some programmer at GM planted some sinister easter eggs in the programming!!
Greg

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano View Post
Well I just got the SSR not too long ago but never had to drive it at night. The DLR's come on when they're supposed to and the high beams, fog lights, parking lights, TS all work as they should. I didn't know the DLR's didn't transition to low beams till just the other evening when I went to drive the car at night for the first time. I've already changed the bulbs but that didn't help. I was told to bring the SSR back to where I got it and they'll have their tech fix the issue. I was just hoping it was something minor that I could fix myself, but it appears it's going to be more than I hoped for.
Don't give up too quickly

I learned a lot this evening and the biggest lesson might be I still have a lot to learn about this circuit that they are not telling us.

Boy this is different then using a scan tool and a voltmeter on a trailblazer. -- They are wired differently and you can use the scan tool to command DRLs on and go from there. While you can still use the scan tool to command DRLs on the SSR you cannot command the low beams on from the BCM screen. You can do it from a different module - but it was late and I didn't try.

I was able to confirm that the relay utilizes a transistor. I also believe that it is a P-N-P type.
I am still trying to get a better grasp on explaining all that I learned or have yet to investigate.

What I can say --- with the relay removed my DRL quit working and I set a code B2575

OK so @dano use your ohmmeter and test resistance between terminals 5 with black lead and terminal 6 with red lead -- you should get a reading, mine bounced around and was extremely high ( 800 Kilo ohms to 1.xx Mega ohms) but not O.L. If you reverse the leads it will read O.L. This is why I believe it is a P-N-P transistor.

I then tried the defective relay and I got a reading of O.L. on terminals 5 and 6 no matter which way I had the leads connected.

I also got the same readings you did at the relay slots with the relay removed. I then lifted the relay slightly so that I could test the pin voltages while it was plugged in and terminal 6 was always less then .5 volts. But terminal 5 was close to 12 volts with low beams off and less than .5 volts with low beams commanded on. This shows the BCM is grounding the relay ( this is also why I believe the BCM is actually grounding the base of the transistor and its a P-N-P type) to turn low beams on.
The wiring diagram is over simplified and is incorrect!

GEE, imagine that !!!

I am sorry that I might have made this too complicated -- AND I learned something and hope you did too.

Again I have used a scan tool and voltmeter on trailblazers and didn't have to try to diagnosis by circuit operation a which is also somewhat different and just a wiring diagram with a voltmeter.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:42 PM
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Hey guys......

I tossed out my two cents this morning and you guys ran with this while I was traveling today. I am learning as I read...... thanks for jumping in on it.

I’m very interested to see the resolution and the thought process that gets us there.

All good stuff.....

Thanks brothers - - -
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 07:22 AM
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No Low Beams

dano:

What are the results of trying to operate the low beams using any of the DIC personalization functions that can be set to activate them, i.e., headlamps on at exit or perimeter lighting, where the low beams turn on for selected delay times as a function of ignition switch/door position or pressing the unlock button on the key fob?
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 07:30 AM
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DRLs

Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
What happens when the light sensor in the dash fails, would that prevent the lights from changing from DRL to low beam?
It's been awhile since I've studied that circuit but when I was exploring how to bypass the automatic feature of the DRLs I know that simply unplugging it (akin to having it fail) would cause the headlights to remain on all the time. I found that a resistor would need to be installed in the circuit to "fool" it to believe that a light sensor was seeing daylight all the time.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snomuncher View Post
It's been awhile since I've studied that circuit but when I was exploring how to bypass the automatic feature of the DRLs I know that simply unplugging it (akin to having it fail) would cause the headlights to remain on all the time. I found that a resistor would need to be installed in the circuit to "fool" it to believe that a light sensor was seeing daylight all the time.
WOW that weird, I unplugged mine last night and lost low beams no matter what I did! Not sure about DRL operation as it was in my garage and although lights tubes were all on - it is too dark to override the light sensor and my low beams always come on in my garage. I couldn't pull it out, another car was in the way.

I did more research later last night and this morning. I will be working on putting together a testing routine for this odd relay circuit relay.
As I was compiling my diagnostic routine I realized I needed to try a couple of more things this evening to add before I can post.

I cut apart the defective relay that I had. I had to see what was inside. Attached is a picture and some pin definitions to include in my testing post later

Obviously this has my curiosity up! Possibly to the level of being obsessed.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 06:12 PM
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'06- Silver/Copper- 121421
Quote:
Originally Posted by snomuncher View Post
It's been awhile since I've studied that circuit but when I was exploring how to bypass the automatic feature of the DRLs I know that simply unplugging it (akin to having it fail) would cause the headlights to remain on all the time. I found that a resistor would need to be installed in the circuit to "fool" it to believe that a light sensor was seeing daylight all the time.
Thank you, just the opposite of how I thought it would work.

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Originally Posted by Autoprof View Post
Obviously this has my curiosity up! Possibly to the level of being obsessed. :
You make it sound like a bad thing. I for one am grateful for your obsession. Thank you.

I've mentioned to a number of new members on arrival that we had some smart guys solving any and all problems they could have.
Well here is one example of the smart guys in action. Awesome ain't it.
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Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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2005 Silver
Well folks, you've all been a great help and I've learned a lot. After doing some basic voltage and resistance testing I learned that it's probably something above my pay grade. So I took it back to the dealer where I bought it and told them quite frankly that they lied to me. They told me that it went through their service department and was put through an umpteen million point quality check and everything passed with flying colors. But the SSR at this point is basically illegal to operate on the street since there are no low beams, and it's unlawful for them to sell a car that isn't street legal. So the bottom line is they kept it and gave me a loaner. A few hours they called me and told me my ride is ready. So now I have low beams....LOL
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 10:50 PM
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2004 Smokin' Asphalt (Canadian specifications)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano View Post
Well folks, you've all been a great help and I've learned a lot. After doing some basic voltage and resistance testing I learned that it's probably something above my pay grade. So I took it back to the dealer where I bought it and told them quite frankly that they lied to me. They told me that it went through their service department and was put through an umpteen million point quality check and everything passed with flying colors. But the SSR at this point is basically illegal to operate on the street since there are no low beams, and it's unlawful for them to sell a car that isn't street legal. So the bottom line is they kept it and gave me a loaner. A few hours they called me and told me my ride is ready. So now I have low beams....LOL
Glad they solved your problem.

And did they tell you what they did to fix the problem? The knowledge bank would benefit from this information ...
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Ken
Vancouver Island, Canada
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by VI Ken View Post
Glad they solved your problem.

And did they tell you what they did to fix the problem? The knowledge bank would benefit from this information ...
No, unfortunately when I got there to pick it up all of the tech's were gone and the salesman as usual doesn't know squat. What ever they did didn't take long, but at this point all is good.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 04:13 AM
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My SSR:
'06 Pac Blue FPR auto #23823 build date 03/08/2006 ZR6 Zone Show Vehicle named BluByU
Please take the time to follow up with the service department to let us know what they did to fix the no low beam issue. Considerable time has been spent by fellow fanatics trying to help you resolve this and it may help the next person having this problem.

Dave
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Guzzi Guy View Post
Please take the time to follow up with the service department to let us know what they did to fix the no low beam issue. Considerable time has been spent by fellow fanatics trying to help you resolve this and it may help the next person having this problem.

Dave
Yes, I will call the tech today and see if they will share that info with me and if they do, I'll pass it along. And to add to this, they also polished my head light lens which were kinda foggy.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano View Post
Yes, I will call the tech today and see if they will share that info with me and if they do, I'll pass it along. And to add to this, they also polished my head light lens which were kinda foggy.


Sounds like a good place to do business with. Might want to share the name and location. Good customer service. Hard to get that any more.


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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Auggie Doggie View Post
Sounds like a good place to do business with. Might want to share the name and location. Good customer service. Hard to get that any more.
The dealer is Pete Moore Chevrolet in Pensacola, FL
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 08:50 AM
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My SSR:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano View Post
The dealer is Pete Moore Chevrolet in Pensacola, FL
Sounds like they may have initially made a mistake in their safety inspection process but once it was brought to their attention it was fixed cheerfully and immediately and even gave you a loaner vehicle. That is the part that impresses me. Many horror stories about dealers in past Posts. Take care and God bless.


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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auggie Doggie View Post
Sounds like they may have initially made a mistake in their safety inspection process but once it was brought to their attention it was fixed cheerfully and immediately and even gave you a loaner vehicle. That is the part that impresses me. Many horror stories about dealers in past Posts. Take care and God bless.
Yeah I think you're right. They said they reprogrammed the Module (I'm assuming the BCM).

As I mentioned earlier they also buffed out my headlight lens, but what I didn't say is that they also programmed two new key fobs that I bought from fleabay. Didn't charge for that either.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 11:24 AM
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I'd guess the tech doing the routine inspection was working during the day, saw the DRLs and said yup, the headlights work. Honest mistake.

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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