Our SSR Electrical Man!! - Page 3 - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #61 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 02:48 PM
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cluster gauges

Thanks David, I am new at computers and I don't know where to find the How-to site with pictures, also we think there are two screws on either side of the cluster but not sure how to get too them, thanks again Fred
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post #62 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 03:12 PM
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Thanks David, I am new at computers and I don't know where to find the How-to site with pictures, also we think there are two screws on either side of the cluster but not sure how to get too them, thanks again Fred
=======================
Fred, Go to upper left red toolbar and click
FORUMS
Next scroll down to DISCUSSION section. Under that you will see sub-forum HOW TO LIBRARY. Click on that & many icon choices will open up to you. Scroll down to the dash removal section and click on it.

You got this!!

David

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post #63 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 04:32 PM
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My SSR:
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Fred22, here is the instructions. You might want to save that link.

If you put "SSR stepper motors" in the Google search box at the top of the page, it will give you this list of threads discussing your problem.

Don't ya hate it when ya ask Mom how to spell something and she says, "Look it up".

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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post #64 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 07:06 AM
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Need help with speedometer issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
DO YOU NEED SUPER ELECTRIC MAN???

DO YOU HAVE AN SSR ELECTICAL QUESTION??

HERE IS WHERE I GO!! AND YOU SHOULD TOO!!

Ed Borland, SITE NAME: "ED in FL".

He is our Electrical Guru and retired from Duke Energy.

He was the trouble shooter for Power Company on all Generating Plants.

He is our "GO TO GUY" and should be yours also.

Roof, fuse box, Roof Door/Window Module, Sound system, anything electrical.

Ed did the Roof Presentation at the National Tech Seminar.

If you want the DVD.

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/f...nar-dvd-69377/


Dicktator
I'm a new member/user and have a lot to learn re: how this site works. Hopefully this message gets to you.

I've researched my speedo needle sticking problem in the tech forum and apparently the stepper motor is the culprit. I'd like to see if Ed in FL can fix this kind of thing, but have been unable to figure out how to contact him. Can you help?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

Green Tuxedo
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post #65 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 07:20 AM
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I'm a new member/user and have a lot to learn re: how this site works. Hopefully this message gets to you.

I've researched my speedo needle sticking problem in the tech forum and apparently the stepper motor is the culprit. I'd like to see if Ed in FL can fix this kind of thing, but have been unable to figure out how to contact him. I'm not comfortable digging into this myself. Can you help me contact him?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

Green Tuxedo
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post #66 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Tuxedo View Post
I'm a new member/user and have a lot to learn re: how this site works. Hopefully this message gets to you.

I've researched my speedo needle sticking problem in the tech forum and apparently the stepper motor is the culprit. I'd like to see if Ed in FL can fix this kind of thing, but have been unable to figure out how to contact him. I'm not comfortable digging into this myself. Can you help me contact him?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

Green Tuxedo
There's an internal email system within the forum called Private Mail (often referred to as PM). Being a new user, it's probably not been turned on for your account yet. Once it is you can contact Ed in Fl or Dragon2U about fixing your gauges.
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post #67 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 05:23 AM
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Hi,
after Hibernation, I got my R back to life yesterday. Had a nice trip without any problem, but after parking for a coffee I was facing bigger electrical issues.
Different failure lights went on: ABS, TC, Engine, ... speedo wasnīt working too so as gear info. I got the car back home in "limp home mode" (right word?, no power - torque gauge was showing max 100, no automatic shifting)

Any ideas? I would guess, that maybe some sensor failed?
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post #68 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Borneo View Post
Hi,
after Hibernation, I got my R back to life yesterday. Had a nice trip without any problem, but after parking for a coffee I was facing bigger electrical issues.
Different failure lights went on: ABS, TC, Engine, ... speedo wasnīt working too so as gear info. I got the car back home in "limp home mode" (right word?, no power - torque gauge was showing max 100, no automatic shifting)

Any ideas? I would guess, that maybe some sensor failed?
The first thought is always the ignition switch, BUT since it ran fine early and then after it was warmed up and you made a short stop and restart is when problems began, I would check the underhood fuse block.

Once it is cold again, restart and see if all is well...if so, I would bet you have a bad fuse block and it needs to be repaired or replaced.

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f103...ictures-56767/

https://af6xxa-sn3301.files.1drv.com...-14.pdf?psid=1


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post #69 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Not sure it is fuse box, usual 05/06 fuse box failure is "run for 30/45 min and shot down, ie. STOP".

Cool down, start again.

I would suggest you start your R.

Shut it off, pull fuse #27 under hood, leave out for 30 minutes and replace.

This reboots ECM "Computer".

May correct it.

Dicktator


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post #70 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Tuxedo View Post
I'm a new member/user and have a lot to learn re: how this site works. Hopefully this message gets to you.

I've researched my speedo needle sticking problem in the tech forum and apparently the stepper motor is the culprit. I'd like to see if Ed in FL can fix this kind of thing, but have been unable to figure out how to contact him. I'm not comfortable digging into this myself. Can you help me contact him?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

Green Tuxedo
Yes, Stepper motors, change all 5 while it is off.

OEM was C5-168 we are replacing with 127-168, much better motor.

Mike aka Dragon2U can change them and I can also change them.

Ed doesn't do stepper motors.

My speedometer was reading 120mph while in my garage with the door down, now that is FAST!

Dicktator


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post #71 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 06:22 AM
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Thanks, guys! Iīll try later and keep you posted.

BTW, ignition switch was already changed.
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post #72 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-15-2016, 04:48 AM
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My SSR:
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Unfortunately no success with rebooting the ECM or cold restart. Any other ideas I could check?

Thanks in advance!
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post #73 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-15-2016, 10:44 AM
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You need to get codes read with an OBDII reader start from there


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post #74 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 12:33 AM
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new member need help 05 R fuse box bad wire

Hi Dicktator and ED in FL,

Hi Guys , am a New Member in search of help for my fuse box bad wire syndrome !
Just posted in new member thread, my help questions, then saw this thread about the two of you.
First , Thanks sooo much for getting me this far ! On this issue.

I have the fuse box removed and am trying to open it without destroying it.
1) Is it simply, drill out the backs (round side) ,of the 4 Square head connectors and then separate ?

2) Then, Is the wire needed a "Special Wire" or is it as simple as standard solid copper wire (Home Depot) or in my garage? Of the correct gauge. Newly Routed as you show ?

3) Then, upon reassembly , have you guys created a fastener , for the drilled out connector ? or since its a threaded connector , will it still work correctly without the round backing.?

Ed in FL , if I cannot do this I would like to get the mailing address and payment info so I may send it to you for permanent repair.

Thanks in advance for your help , even when , you didn't even know, you were helping me !

Chris
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post #75 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 05:22 AM
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My SSR:
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Short update, I was in a small garage, but OBDII is just telling:"No communication with gear box". It seems, that I have to go to a Chevy dealer and pay for their chrystal palace ...
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post #76 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Borneo View Post
Short update, I was in a small garage, but OBDII is just telling:"No communication with gear box". It seems, that I have to go to a Chevy dealer and pay for their chrystal palace ...
Go to Unknown Driver on SSR How to Library.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Check "comb" to see which module is causing problem.

Could be Park Solenoid, check "How to Library" on Park.

Dicktator


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post #77 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 01:57 AM
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My SSR:
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I love this community!

Thanks, Dicktator. I tried to find the Problem like discribed, but couldnīt find anything. Not being an electrical mastermind I may have failed in reading the circuit diagram.

So finally I lost my patience and drove her to the Chevy dealer. Letīs cross fingers ...

Keep you posted about the result.
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post #78 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Borneo View Post
I love this community!

Thanks, Dicktator. I tried to find the Problem like discribed, but couldnīt find anything. Not being an electrical mastermind I may have failed in reading the circuit diagram.

So finally I lost my patience and drove her to the Chevy dealer. Letīs cross fingers ...

Keep you posted about the result.
Let us know Doc, I know you have link problem, usually ground.

But where? That is the question.

Dicktator


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post #79 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 02:49 AM
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My SSR:
2005 slingshot yellow, born 09/30/04, #15805
Just got a call from the dealer. They cannot locate the problem. It seems that the car gets constantly the information, that itīs driving around.

The real issue is, they have no circuit diagrams. And for whatever reasons they canīt get them easily. For political and ethical correctness I wonīt comment here.

I know, that somewhere in this forum Iīve seen diagrams, so Iīll start searching ...
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post #80 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 04:36 AM
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My SSR:
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Nothing found. I tried wiring diagram, circuit diagram, electrical wiring, etc ... anyone got a hint?
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post #81 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 07:40 AM
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Electrical Problem

Doc Borneo:

Just to get back to the basics: Have you and/or the dealer checked all of the grounds for tightness and good connections? The locations are listed on this forum. Have you checked for tightness at all of the battery power connections under the truck, at the red jumper box, at the alternator, fuse box and at the starter solenoid? These are easiest to check to eliminate those loose or corroded cable connection issues that cause other electrical problems.

You have likely seen on this forum that corrosion builds up on fuse contacts, especially on the larger fuses. That is another item you can check yourself and clean any that don't look good to eliminate that as a possible cause.

And what does the dealer say about readings when they attach their dealer diagnostic tool, e.g. Tech 2, to the truck? Are they reading any trouble codes or seeing communication errors, e.g., with the powertrain control module? More specifically, are there any transmission codes? Have they tried using the Tech 2 or their other equivalent GM diagnostic tools to communicate with other electrical modules like the Body Control Module to verify that they are working properly?

You said the dealer told you: "It seems that the car gets constantly the information, that itīs driving around." I'm unsure how to interpret that- it sounds like a powertrain control circuit is constantly receiving power and sending information even with the truck shut off, but I don't know how that would be reflected on a diagnostic tool (all normal operating parameters like engine RPMs, throttle position, temperature, etc. would be zero) or how to diagnose it except to start looking at drain on the battery, but admittedly that is a long shot.


Good luck and keep us posted.
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post #82 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 08:15 AM
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Thanks for your quick response!
Quote:
Originally Posted by snomuncher View Post
Just to get back to the basics: Have you and/or the dealer checked all of the grounds for tightness and good connections? The locations are listed on this forum. Have you checked for tightness at all of the battery power connections under the truck, at the red jumper box, at the alternator, fuse box and at the starter solenoid? These are easiest to check to eliminate those loose or corroded cable connection issues that cause other electrical problems.
Yes, I checked the main grounds. Nonetheless I forwarded the ground diagram from the "How to" library to the dealer. Being "just" an engineer I may miss some specific knowledge or may have made faults while checking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snomuncher View Post
You have likely seen on this forum that corrosion builds up on fuse contacts, especially on the larger fuses. That is another item you can check yourself and clean any that don't look good to eliminate that as a possible cause.
I checked all fuses in both boxes visually and with a flowmeter. Nothing found here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snomuncher View Post
And what does the dealer say about readings when they attach their dealer diagnostic tool, e.g. Tech 2, to the truck? Are they reading any trouble codes or seeing communication errors, e.g., with the powertrain control module? More specifically, are there any transmission codes? Have they tried using the Tech 2 or their other equivalent GM diagnostic tools to communicate with other electrical modules like the Body Control Module to verify that they are working properly?
I donīt know about the codes theyīve got. From my understanding they only see that the car seems to move when ignition is on. What surprises me a bit because even when driving speedo is on zero, just rev meter is working. And OBD is stating no connection with gear box. I try to get the exact codes from the diagnostic tool.

I`ve also forwarded the wiring diagram from the serial data bus (in the "Unknown Driver" slide deck). Even having checked that myself ... but as said, I may have overseen something.
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post #83 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 12:11 PM
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04 Redline #9973
Doc
I assume "gearbox" is transmission and based on earlier post - automatic
The 05 SSR has TWO serial data line pin 2 of data link connector is single wire low speed net work -- pins 6 and 14 are high speed CAN network -- the TCM (transmission control module) communicates to the ECM (engine control module) through the CAN lines, It communicates with other modules from the low speed network -- No communication from the TCM on high speed network should set a code U0101 ( just the one module down - not the entire network) and if no communication with low speed U1024.
Code U0101 check continuity of wires shown on Eds diagram between ECM and TCM. the check the TCM for power and ground.
The following is from membership access of identifix.com and "direct hit search - no communication with TCM speedo inop.
Possible faulty power or ground for TCM or faulty TCM
1.. At key on, engine off verify the Orange wire at pin 32, the Pink wire at pin 31, and the Yellow wire at pin 11 all have battery voltage.
2. Verify a good ground on the Black/White wire at pin 49.
3. If OK, replace the TCM.
IMPORTANT - that these readings are taken while backprobing connector - DO NOT take reading with connector unplugged.

ASK Your dealership is they have a membership to identifix.com or iATN.com - they can access factory service manuals from these sites (not cheap) - You might consider purchase of factory service manual or see if a fanatic has an e-copy you could have.
Also the new TCM has to be programed you can not just put one in and go - they must have the proper equipment and access to GM's service programming -- SO NO Guessing!!!
Hopefully they find out no power or bad ground to TCM
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post #84 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 01:32 PM
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My SSR:
04 Redline #9973
One more thing for assistance, from service manual

"Action Taken When the DTC Sets

The module uses a default value for the missing parameter. "

The diagnostic tool is showing the default values used so that the car can be driven in "limp Mode" . Hopefully they have tech 2 or newer, especially if they have to perform reprogramming. Tech 2 can "ping" a module and see if it will respond.

I AM NOT saying you have a bad TCM, I am saying it is possible and this information is provided to assist in testing it.

SOME ONE else -- didn't the welcome to SSR fanatic "kit" have a thumb drive with a service manual on it. I have one -- somewhere?? -- maybe someone that bought a spare could send it Doc in germany
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post #85 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-25-2016, 06:27 AM
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Yes.

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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post #86 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-25-2016, 12:27 PM
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My SSR:
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Why tach works, speedo doesn't

I was preparing some material for my advanced electrical class and wanted to discuss this case study. I did some more research to explain multiplexing and what was going on in terms that could be easily understood. I thought I might share this with some of the inquiring minds on this site.

Multiplexing is a way for various computers to share data over one or two lines of communication. These lines are called many things and operate at various speeds. Some terms are data bus and serial data lines. The speeds in this care are class 2 and GM high speed CAN (GM calls it High Speed GMLAN because of a slight difference). Multiplexing greatly reduces the size of the wiring harness.

In this case:
the engine speed is sent to the engine control module (ECM), the ECM then shares that info on the data bus
the vehicle speed signal is sent to the transmission control module (TCM) the TCM then shares that info on the data bus.
the instrument panel (IPC) looks to the class2 data line for engine speed data created from the ecm for the tachometer. The speedometer uses vehicle speed data from the TCM. The TCM is not communicating so no speedometer operation. (I would bet the gear selector display is not functioning either!)
the scan tool is displaying the default value for vehicle speed that it is using to allow the car to be driven somewhat. The same thing occurs on scan tool data display when you unplug coolant sensor - because it recognizes the voltage is not normal the scanner displays a calculated temperature the ECM is using but the voltage displayed is actual. This would explain the scan tool showing vehicle speed changing with car standing still. the computer is looking at engine speed and throttle position to guess what speed might be and is does not know if car is in park, reverse or drive.

The big question is why is the TCM not responding.

DOC make sure they also check connections - see GM tsb 09-06-03-004
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post #87 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 04:06 AM
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My SSR:
2005 slingshot yellow, born 09/30/04, #15805
Back from my easter trip, I got a call from the dealer. Finally they gave up and couldnīt find the root cause. Being just licensed for US cars for EU market and not for US cars for US markets, they are not getting the needed support by Chevy itself ... well, at least thatīs what they are telling me.

Thanks to xoxoxoBruce, Iīll get the Service Manual. Then Iīll go back to square zero and try again. Plus checking the stuff autoprof has posted of course.

Thank you so much much for your ongoing support!
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post #88 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 09:32 AM
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Where to start??
I have started personalizing my "New" Blue SSR. Have few minor issues to fix. One I had not noticed before is that the radio does not turn off when I open the Driver door but it does when I open the Passenger door. The window does it's index thing though so I am thinking is might be something other than the switch related to the door handle in the door. Any one have any good ideas where to start, before I rip into the door?

I would start a new thread for this but am unable to post anything except a Quick Reply!!


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post #89 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak View Post
Where to start??
I have started personalizing my "New" Blue SSR. Have few minor issues to fix. One I had not noticed before is that the radio does not turn off when I open the Driver door but it does when I open the Passenger door. The window does it's index thing though so I am thinking is might be something other than the switch related to the door handle in the door. Any one have any good ideas where to start, before I rip into the door?

I would start a new thread for this but am unable to post anything except a Quick Reply!!
Does the drivers window go back up when door is closed?
If the answer is no, then I would suggest the door LATCH switch or open wire.
The RDM (roof door module) opens window slightly using the door HANDLE switches as inputs - the RDM the closes the window after the RDM sees a door closed signal from the door LATCH switch.
The BCM uses the door LATCH switch to shut off the retained accessory power. (shut off radio when door is opened).
Both switches are built into the door latch -- Gry/BLK (pin B) goes to the latch switch -- grounded ( BLK wire pin D) when door is open
If window does close
The GRY/BLK wire is open between a splice and the BCM ( I can't post the diagram ) Lets hope not a bad BCM
NOTE there are three plugs on latch -- a three wire for latch and handle, a two wire for key switch input and another 2 wire for lock actuator
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post #90 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 01:38 PM
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My SSR:
#23198 06Blue 3SS #375/532-BOD 12/21/05, got it 9/5/06 & #21474 #29/532-BOD 8/24/05, got it 12/1/15
Garage
The window goes up and down as it should with the status of the door but the radio remains on with the door open until timeout unless the passenger door is opened, then it goes off. Thanks for the information. I did not want to tear into the door until I knew what to look for. Is the GRY/BLK also accessible in the kick panel, so I could maybe check there before ripping into the door? or should I just wait until I go in to do Muth Mirrors?


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