Roof ajar message - roof and windows not working - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Roof ajar message - roof and windows not working

Got the roof ajar message with the ding ding sound. Windows and top not working at all. Door locks, radio, mirrors, and traction control all working. Checked all fuses and cleaned all grounds and found no issues. The only odd thing I found was when I checked fuse 28 behind the passenger seat and put my meter on it there was only 8 volts. Checked a few others and they were all +/-12 volts. Is replacing the Roof Door Module the next step?
Thanks
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by zzrich View Post
Got the roof ajar message with the ding ding sound. Windows and top not working at all. Door locks, radio, mirrors, and traction control all working. Checked all fuses and cleaned all grounds and found no issues. The only odd thing I found was when I checked fuse 28 behind the passenger seat and put my meter on it there was only 8 volts. Checked a few others and they were all +/-12 volts. Is replacing the Roof Door Module the next step?
Thanks
Fuse #28 on all years feeds power to the "smart side" of the RDM. If the RDM is only getting 8 volts this could be where your problem begins
Was it 8 volts on both sides of fuse #28. If 8 volts on one side and 12 volts on the other side -- replace that fuse (AND SEND ME THE OLD ONE!) I will pay for shipping and handling.

If 8 volts on both sides
1. retest ALL rear fuse box fuses with the key in the on position (engine off) turn on radio and rear defroster.
2. if now more than 1 fuse has low voltage on both sides. Repeat voltage test at underhood 125 amp fuse (key still on and radio and rear defroster still on also). If this shows 12 volts on one side and low voltage on the other side. The 125 amp fuse is faulty
Replace that fuse ---- AGAIN MAIL ME THE DEFECTIVE FUSE, I will gladly pay shipping and extra $$$ for your efforts.

Let me know what you find.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:58 AM
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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First - Thanks for the help!
Tested today with switch in run position with radio and rear defrost on
Tested fuse #28 first and it showed 11.70 volts today??? Tested both sides 3 times and got same reading
All other mini fuses tested 11.7 (this is with my cheap volt meter)
Except these:
#16 veh chmsl 0 to .01 volts
#34 stop .01
#38 lt turn .55
#43 rt turn .55
Underhood 125 fuse tested 11.7 on both sides
Yesterday when I tested I didn't have the radio or defrost on
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:03 PM
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My SSR:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzrich View Post
First - Thanks for the help!
Tested today with switch in run position with radio and rear defrost on
Tested fuse #28 first and it showed 11.70 volts today??? Tested both sides 3 times and got same reading
All other mini fuses tested 11.7 (this is with my cheap volt meter)
Except these:
#16 veh chmsl 0 to .01 volts
#34 stop .01
#38 lt turn .55
#43 rt turn .55
Underhood 125 fuse tested 11.7 on both sides
Yesterday when I tested I didn't have the radio or defrost on
Wow, that is strange that you had 8 volts last night and almost 12 tonight. Did you try to repeat tests under same conditions as last night?

I know this might sound stupid but I'm trying to keep it simple. I am spoiled because I have access to a good scan tool and would address diagnosing the symptoms differently.

Now that you have good voltage at fuse 28 is the problem still present?

I would suspect the working side of the RDM next. The window motors and latch motors receive their power thru RDM circuit breaker #1 (i believe). The roof pump receives power thru the roof pump circuit breaker #2.(again not sure of the number). The other circuit breaker in the rear fuse box i can recall is for the power seats. Because there is no easy way to accurately test these circuit breakers under a load, if power seats function try swapping the 30 amp seat circuit breaker with the RDM circuit breaker.
The power windows should operate from the switches regardless of where the roof is in its cycle. I tried on mine. Top unlatched just slightly, stopped top process and windows worked as commanded by buttons.

Problem could also be related to the three switches in switch panel all being faulty, slim chance that all would fail at once but possible. Again easy to test with correct scan tool.


By the way the fuses you listed as not having any voltage is normal, as these fuses are located after their switches. For example the brake pedal would have to be depressed to test the stop fuse or the CHMSL (center high mount stop light) fuse.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 12:12 AM
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Here is some reading: SSR HOW TO LIBRARY:

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look up ROOF AJAR.

Suggest you pull each fuse/relay one by one, clean and replace in rear fuse box. Also tighten silver "jack" screws 7mm, they "pull" connectors onto fuses/relays.

Upper left of fuse box are two 30amp relays, Roof UP and Roof DOWN, interchangeable.

Why pull and clean? Your SSR, all SSR are 13 to 16 years OLD!!

Fuses/relays have been sitting for years, electrolysis sets in, poor connection, poor results.

Dealing with computers remember!

Dicktator

1. Rear Fuse Box exposed for removal.
2. Up/Down silver relays, 30amp at top of fuse box, left.
3. Rear Fuse box with covers removed.
4. Fuse/Relay layout back of cover.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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The only difference in testing was I used a vice grip to hold one of the volt meter leads to one of the seat bolts for a good ground. I was holding both leads by hand the day before.
Still have the problem, windows and top do nothing no sound at all. Power seats are working. I did clean and swap the 30 amp fuses into different locations. In one slot they all three got the ding ding sound when plugged in so I think they are all good. I did tighten the jack screws.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:39 AM
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My SSR:
04 Redline #9973
OK so I had do to a lot of research on this one, but here is my next series of thoughts based on my research and common problems

I think one of the wires to the roof position switches have chaffed and grounded out. Probably bare and touching one of the retaining clips! I don't believe the RDM is completely dead, because it is generating the class 2 information to the DIC to give you the roof ajar display! It may still be faulty though.

Here are some of my thoughts and some possible tests -- would be easier if you had access to an enhanced scan tool as I am so fortunate to have!

One of the wires going to all a majority (if not all) of the roof position switches (sensors) is a 12 volt reference wire used to operate the sensors.
See picture #1 illustrating the wires to switches (sensors) originating at the RDM C1 termianal 1.

There is also a 12 volt reference wire going to the a position sensors in the power window motors. C2 terminal 6

If either of these reference wires becomes shorted to ground it sets a code B1517 in the RDM.
The following is copied from the manual

DTC B1517

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The roof/door module (RDM) has 2 separate 12-volt reference voltage circuits. They supply a reference voltage to various roof position sensors on one circuit and the power window motors with the other.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC
• Battery voltage between 9-16 volts
• The roof and windows may be active or inactive

CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
The DTC will set when the RDM senses a short to ground on either 12-volt reference voltage circuit.

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
The RDM cannot properly control the power roof or the power windows.


CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE DTC
• When the fault is no longer present, the RDM will change the current DTC to a history DTC.
• The RDM will clear the history DTC after 50 fault free ignition cycles.
• A current or history DTC can also be cleared using a scan tool.

Now for testing
- if you had a scan tool it would be easier because you could follow the diagnostic chart in the service manual
picture #2 is this chart ---

You will have to use the cables to open the roof storage cover to access the RDM
I believe how to do both of these is on the famous one drive provided to us by the great Dicktator

Once the cover is open you can do a couple of things
1. try operate windows --- if they now work - the bare wire was disturbed enough during opening process that the reference circuit is no longer grounded, you are on the right rack - start trying to find the bare wire

2. perform a good visual inspection

3. try disconnecting RDM connector C1 (there are 4 connectors C1 is a white one with 24 cavities, C2 is the other white one and it has 32 cavities) with only C1 disconnected see if power windows now function (I believe if the short is gone and although it will display problems with the top in the DIC because its unplugged, the windows should still operate?) if they do you can confirm it must be the reference voltage to the top sensors that are at fault. If the windows still don't work try measuring the resistance to ground at C1 terminal 1 of the connector -- if resistance is couple of ohms the wire is shorted - NOTE these sensors will have some resistance, I do not know what the value should actually be. See picture #3 its the only red wire

4. disconnect the other white connector at the RDM and measure the resistance between terminal #6 and ground --- if low resistance you will have to remove each door panel and unplug the motors one at a time until the resistance increases (or you could try to access the door wiring harness from inside the cabin by removing the kick panel and unplug that) then check operation of the other window with the RDM connectors plugged back in. See picture #4 again its the only red wire.

Another test for a grounded reference circuit would be to measure the voltage by backprobing the terminal (plug connector into the RDM and then using a T shaped pin or similar) slide the pin into the back side (the side the wires are on) of the terminal cavity making contact with the metal terminal and connect the red lead of your meter there, black led should be on a good ground. You should read close to 12 volts
(personally I think that might be a misprint and it should be 5 volts?) confirm your ground by checking the 12 volt power supplies to the RDM (black 14 cavity
connector) C3 orange wires that come from the rear fuse box. !2 volts at these will confirm yo do indeed have a good ground.

Sorry for the long post - I hope its not too confusing

Lets us know your results, best of luck
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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I was out of town the last couple of days. Took the SSR for a drive this afternoon and noticed the radio would have static every few seconds. Also noticed the outside temp gauge was moving between around 110 and being pegged out. It would move with the static. Got home pulled the radio fuse #41 cleaned and pushed it in and out a few times. Turned the key to run and the radio and outside temp gauge were doing the same thing. I was pushing the window buttons and both windows went up a few inches and stayed there and never got them to move again. Decided to clean all fuses and slide them in and out a couple of times. I had the key on and it was getting static every few seconds on the radio. When I pulled fuse #01 roof-dr-mdl the static stopped and the temp gauge stopped moving. I let the radio play for a few minutes and it had no static. I rotated between the 3 30amp fuses I have and they all did the same, with fuse in static and outside temp gauge jumping. Without fuse 1 in I turned key off them back to run, radio played with no static and outside temp gauge stayed on 0. I them put fuse 1 in and radio had static and outside temp gauge started dancing between 110 and pegged out. I think the car is possessed. I haven't had time to try and get the roof storage cover open.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 08:43 AM
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
I would change Ignition switch because "everything" go thru ignition switch. (On How to)

I would pull fuse to RDM and leave out for a day or two.

Hopefully, time will reset RDM. Worked before.

Check communication link, clean/replace. (On How to)

Pull/Spray connectors on RDM inside roof compartment. (On How to)

How to Library: I know, Not that again! Look up ROOF DOOR MODULE

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Roof and windows are working again! I replaced the ignition switch after work today and didn't see any change.
Still had on and off radio static and the outside temp gauge bounced around. I was holding the window switch
down and it would go up an inch or maybe 6 inches between or during static couldn't really tell when they would work.
I then held the roof switch and after a few minutes it worked enough to get the roof cover up. After the roof cover
opened there was no more static on the radio but the temp gauge was still bouncing. The windows we working better
than before. I took the metal clips off roof frame and did find a small chaffed area and found a zip tie that was
very tight. Cut the tight zip tie and taped up the chaffed areas. I used velcro to secure the wires and lines to the
roof frame. I was able to put the roof up. Lowered the windows to index them. Open doors and windows both indexed correctly.
I was then able to lower the roof with no issues.
Thanks for all the help!
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 09:47 PM
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Great job.
Thanks for posting a follow up.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 05:51 AM
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Dictator
I for one LOVE your library and know it’s gonna help my mechanic change my ignition switch and other works
Thank you again for this comprehensive library
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:24 AM
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i agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trygodfirst View Post
Dictator
I for one LOVE your library and know itís gonna help my mechanic change my ignition switch and other works
Thank you again for this comprehensive library
I second that! Every project or repair that I have done has been with DICKTATOR's "how-to" library loaded up on my iPad PRO and the other hand on a wrench. What a valuable resource to have at our disposal when dealing with this somewhat complex vehicle. I appreciate the time and effort of all involved to compile all of this information for all of our benefit.

Brian

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 07:18 AM
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Glad you found it. Those clips and wires DO cause problems !!!

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 08:52 AM
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by zzrich View Post
Roof and windows are working again! I replaced the ignition switch after work today and didn't see any change.
Still had on and off radio static and the outside temp gauge bounced around. I was holding the window switch
down and it would go up an inch or maybe 6 inches between or during static couldn't really tell when they would work.
I then held the roof switch and after a few minutes it worked enough to get the roof cover up. After the roof cover
opened there was no more static on the radio but the temp gauge was still bouncing. The windows we working better
than before. I took the metal clips off roof frame and did find a small chaffed area and found a zip tie that was
very tight. Cut the tight zip tie and taped up the chaffed areas. I used velcro to secure the wires and lines to the
roof frame. I was able to put the roof up. Lowered the windows to index them. Open doors and windows both indexed correctly.
I was then able to lower the roof with no issues.
Thanks for all the help!
YUP! There you go! On the HOW To LIBRARY under ROOF CHAFFED WIRES

How about that, we have been there before many times. GM used metal clip to hold wires and hydraulic lines to hinge, wires pull/bend/flex until insulation is off, bare wire "shorts", RDM says "time out".

Also shows you a repair, maybe not how you want to do it but DO IT! Before you have a problem.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator
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