First - Thanks for the help!
Tested today with switch in run position with radio and rear defrost on
Tested fuse #28 first and it showed 11.70 volts today??? Tested both sides 3 times and got same reading
All other mini fuses tested 11.7 (this is with my cheap volt meter)
#16 veh chmsl 0 to .01 volts
#34 stop .01
#38 lt turn .55
#43 rt turn .55
Underhood 125 fuse tested 11.7 on both sides
Yesterday when I tested I didn't have the radio or defrost on
Wow, that is strange that you had 8 volts last night and almost 12 tonight. Did you try to repeat tests under same conditions as last night?
I know this might sound stupid but I'm trying to keep it simple. I am spoiled because I have access to a good scan tool and would address diagnosing the symptoms differently.
Now that you have good voltage at fuse 28 is the problem still present?
I would suspect the working side of the RDM next. The window motors and latch motors receive their power thru RDM circuit breaker #1 (i believe). The roof pump receives power thru the roof pump circuit breaker #2.(again not sure of the number). The other circuit breaker in the rear fuse box i can recall is for the power seats. Because there is no easy way to accurately test these circuit breakers under a load, if power seats function try swapping the 30 amp seat circuit breaker with the RDM circuit breaker.
The power windows should operate from the switches regardless of where the roof is in its cycle. I tried on mine. Top unlatched just slightly, stopped top process and windows worked as commanded by buttons.
Problem could also be related to the three switches in switch panel all being faulty, slim chance that all would fail at once but possible. Again easy to test with correct scan tool.
By the way the fuses you listed as not having any voltage is normal, as these fuses are located after their switches. For example the brake pedal would have to be depressed to test the stop fuse or the CHMSL (center high mount stop light) fuse.