Roof cycle timeout - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Ricochet Silver #10279/Born 05-19-04 Adopted 10-28-07/GHL "Old School" True Duals/Joe's Tune
Roof cycle timeout

The last 10 or 12 times I have tried to put the top down I get this message

Quote:
ROOF CYCLE TIMEOUT
So every time I get this message I turn off the truck and restart it and it works but not today.

After starting the truck 3 or 4 times and trying to lower the top I got this message.

Quote:
ROOF AJAR
I started the truck one more time and the top went down but the D.I.C. did not work.

I drove it home and the top went up fine.

I read this tread
https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/r...on-info-16651/

and it says
Quote:
• ROOF CYCLE TIMEOUT -- Displays when the folding top switch is active and the RDM has detected a fault that could potentially bind the system possibly causing mechanical damage. Roof operation ceases when this message appears.
Quote:
• ROOF AJAR -- Displayed when cargo cover is released and roof system is not fully opened or closed.
There is a post on the tread that says
Quote:
I had this message "roof ajar" Found the 30amp fuse was not making contact. Pulled and reset fuse and Bingo, everthing is up and down again
Can someone tell me where this 30amp fuse is?

I also did this
Quote:
Yes, Mine does that too once in a while.

I now push the UP button BEFORE I activate the DOWN button. Works every time. Mine makes a very short cycle into UP before I push the DOWN button.

I beleive that the check valve is bypassing a little while it is in the UP or DOWN postion. I haven't taken it to the Dealer. YET!!

Try that, it works on mine.
I started the truck and the D.I.C worked and pushed the up button before I activated the down button and the top worked fine.

Is it time to replace the ignition switch?

Any other ideas?
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 06:09 PM
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My SSR:
gone
i believe the fuse is under the waterfall behind the passenger seat.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 06:13 PM
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Sorry I don't know the answer Delma … BUT ... I want to praise you for using the on sight search tool … something many don’t take the time to do.
Sure hope your problem solved quickly before next weekend.



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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 06:24 PM
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
There are two 30 amp fuses in the panel behind the passengers seat as you were told above.

Good idea to remove both fuses, located at top of fuse panel. Labeled Up and Down. Clean and replace.

NEXT:
You also have two mirco switches located on the inside of the roof cover. One on each side.

See pictures. They are micro switches that can be cleaned or replaced at Radio Shack. Switches are only a few bucks at Radio Shack or $200 apiece at the Dealer for the whole latch. Easy to replace micro switch.

Check latch assembly on driver side, top of windshield.

If these things don't work, you may want to look at ignition switch, if you have never changed it.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
There are two 30 amp fuses in the panel behind the passengers seat as you were told above.

Good idea to remove both fuses, located at top of fuse panel. Labeled Up and Down. Clean and replace.

NEXT:
You also have two mirco switches located on the inside of the roof cover. One on each side.

See pictures. They are micro switches that can be cleaned or replaced at Radio Shack. Switches are only a few bucks at Radio Shack or $200 apiece at the Dealer for the whole latch. Easy to replace micro switch.

Check latch assembly on driver side, top of windshield.

If these things don't work, you may want to look at ignition switch, if you have never changed it.

Dicktator
Good to know and thanks for sharing.


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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 08:32 AM
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My SSR:
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Roof Ajar

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Ricochet Silver #10279/Born 05-19-04 Adopted 10-28-07/GHL "Old School" True Duals/Joe's Tune
Bill found the two 30amp fuses and pulled them out and wiped them off and put them back in. He went around to the drivers side to get in and the window would not index down. Lucky for us the window was down on the passengers side so he crawled in and started the truck. The DIC was not working, the top would not come down and the windows would not go up.

After starting the truck 4 times and trying to put the top down and the windows up it worked.

So we are thinking a bad ignition switch to our knowledge it has never been replaced or a weak battery to our knowledge it has never been replaced.

What do you think?
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delma Lou View Post
Bill found the two 30amp fuses and pulled them out and wiped them off and put them back in. He went around to the drivers side to get in and the window would not index down. Lucky for us the window was down on the passengers side so he crawled in and started the truck. The DIC was not working, the top would not come down and the windows would not go up.

After starting the truck 4 times and trying to put the top down and the windows up it worked.

So we are thinking a bad ignition switch to our knowledge it has never been replaced or a weak battery to our knowledge it has never been replaced.

What do you think?
Have Bill disconnect the positive battery cable at the jump box, wait a few minutes and reconnect. If it works, it's probably not the ignition switch.

I can swap out the ignition switch for you in Laughlin if you wish.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 04:39 PM
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My SSR:
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I've been down the same road and it's very frustrating to say the least. I replaced the ignition switch and suddenly everything worked again. If you have to rock the top switch back and forth to get it to open it is most likely the micro switch that
is a separte part in the latch assembly. refer to Dictators pictures. A little bit of electrical contact cleaner should to the trick. I had that problem also and discovered that the contact was sticking......good luck...ssrbob
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Ricochet Silver #10279/Born 05-19-04 Adopted 10-28-07/GHL "Old School" True Duals/Joe's Tune
Doug

Quote:
Have Bill disconnect the positive battery cable at the jump box, wait a few minutes and reconnect. If it works, it's probably not the ignition switch.
Bill did this and it seams to have fixed the problem.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-01-2011, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Ricochet Silver #10279/Born 05-19-04 Adopted 10-28-07/GHL "Old School" True Duals/Joe's Tune
I did what Doug said.


Quote:
Have Bill disconnect the positive battery cable at the jump box, wait a few minutes and reconnect. If it works, it's probably not the ignition switch.
It worked for a couple of days and when I got to Laughlin the top would not go down.

I was parked next to a guy at the car show that said his roof has done this sense the day he bought his truck. He told me to watch in the rear view mirror and when the cover pops up about 4 inches to take my finger off the switch and wait a second and then push the open switch again.





and it works every time.



I got home and I took both sides apart and sprayed the micro switches with electrical contact cleaner.

Put it all back together and everything worked great.

I went to put the top down today and I have the same problem.

"ROOF CYCLE TIMEOUT"

I guess the next thing to do is change the switches.
The wires come out of the switches and go into a bundle of wires. If I cut the wires I don't think there is enough room to use a wire butt connector.

Is there anyone that has changed these that can tell me how to do it?

Bill
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-01-2011, 08:52 PM
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My SSR:
'04 Black / silver roof and hood. Magna charger. Air tech suspension. Flow master cat back
My top does the same as yours and I open it the way the guy in Laughlin told you. I will watch this thread, hopefully somebody knows the solution!
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 06:39 AM
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
I to had the problem of "Time Out" and corrected it by removing the two 30amp fuses located in the fuse box behind passengers seat.

The fuses are at the top and are labeled "up" and "down".

I cleaned the contacts and it worked well for a long time.

Then it happened again and I took it to my Dealer who has two mechanics trained on the SSR.

They replaced the relay latch located on drivers side above windshield. If this switch is dirty or not seating properly it will give you the "Time Out".

They replaced the latch relay and everything has been fine sense.

There are so many contacts that occur to make the roof operate, it is amazing that we don't have more problems.

Hope this helps.

Dicktator
PS. I ALWAYS have engine running while operating roof. Takes 13 amps to operate roof.


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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 11:13 AM
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My SSR:
"04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy
I don't mean to hijack this thread....tell me if I should go somewhere else.
My roof CLOSES just fine. When I try to OPEN it the "cover" (the first piece to move) will not pop up at all. It does make a moaning sound (no it is not my wife) and after about 6-7 seconds it times out. I can get it to pop up by holding my left foot on the brake, pressing the button with my left hand and with my right foot on the ground, pull up on the driver side of the piece from the outside. Once it starts it continues and finishes just fine. It "appears" that there is either just not enough power or it is sticking. I have tried to silicone the gaskets....no help. Is this the situation where I need to clean up some micro switch?
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 11:18 AM
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#23198 06Blue 3SS #375/532-BOD 12/21/05, got it 9/5/06 & #21474 #29/532-BOD 8/24/05, got it 12/1/15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777 View Post
I don't mean to hijack this thread....tell me if I should go somewhere else.
My roof CLOSES just fine. When I try to OPEN it the "cover" (the first piece to move) will not pop up at all. It does make a moaning sound (no it is not my wife) and after about 6-7 seconds it times out. I can get it to pop up by holding my left foot on the brake, pressing the button with my left hand and with my right foot on the ground, pull up on the driver side of the piece from the outside. Once it starts it continues and finishes just fine. It "appears" that there is either just not enough power or it is sticking. I have tried to silicone the gaskets....no help. Is this the situation where I need to clean up some micro switch?
I suspect an alignment issue or a low fluid issue, but I cannot tell you where to start looking. It would help to have someone familiar with the truck work with you. I do not know how much good the dealers on the island would be but maybe one of the other Oahu owners could get together with you and help by acting as eyes or use their truck for A - B comparisons.


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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 01:21 PM
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My SSR:
"04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak View Post
I suspect an alignment issue or a low fluid issue, but I cannot tell you where to start looking. It would help to have someone familiar with the truck work with you. I do not know how much good the dealers on the island would be but maybe one of the other Oahu owners could get together with you and help by acting as eyes or use their truck for A - B comparisons.
Thanks for the advice. I will check the fluid (providing I can find our where the check fluid point is). Trouble with looking at alignment is that it is all closed up and looks fine from the outside. Has anyone ever gotten inside the roof storage compartment (with flashlight), closed it up and watched what happens? I am more than a little apprehensive about doing that.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 02:16 PM
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Here is pictures of the two relays that are located behind your passengers seat in the fuse box. They are for the "UP and DOWN" function.

1 & 2. Remove door, remove cover, clip/top & bottom.
Top two switches 30 amp.
One is for "up" and one for "Down". (this is an 04)
They can be removed and contacts cleaned.

3 & 4. Picture of ALL the wiring,contacts,relays that are under the cover on the top of your windshield. The KEY Latching Relay is on drivers side top. This is where your roof is latched and sealed against the weather. It is also the Latch that releases the roof for a top down "GRIN". (These picture are on page 113 of "SSR an american original)

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Ricochet Silver #10279/Born 05-19-04 Adopted 10-28-07/GHL "Old School" True Duals/Joe's Tune
Quote:
I don't mean to hijack this thread....tell me if I should go somewhere else.
My roof CLOSES just fine. When I try to OPEN it the "cover" (the first piece to move) will not pop up at all. It does make a moaning sound (no it is not my wife) and after about 6-7 seconds it times out. I can get it to pop up by holding my left foot on the brake, pressing the button with my left hand and with my right foot on the ground, pull up on the driver side of the piece from the outside. Once it starts it continues and finishes just fine. It "appears" that there is either just not enough power or it is sticking. I have tried to silicone the gaskets....no help. Is this the situation where I need to clean up some micro switch?
Our truck the does the same thing.

What I have found is if you rock the open and close button 3 or 4 times the cover will open.

I never thought of pulling up on the piece.


Bill
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 06:50 PM
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My SSR:
#23198 06Blue 3SS #375/532-BOD 12/21/05, got it 9/5/06 & #21474 #29/532-BOD 8/24/05, got it 12/1/15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777 View Post
Thanks for the advice. I will check the fluid (providing I can find our where the check fluid point is). Trouble with looking at alignment is that it is all closed up and looks fine from the outside. Has anyone ever gotten inside the roof storage compartment (with flashlight), closed it up and watched what happens? I am more than a little apprehensive about doing that.
To check the fluid level you need to have the cover of the comparment open and the roof still up. You look into the compartment, with a flashlight, and you will find the reservoir under the big box mounted on the back of the seats. It is a translucent cylinder on it's side and should have two dots on the end as you look at it from the driver's side of the vehicle. The level should be between the dots. If it is low you need to search the forums for top fluid because I do not have the part number handy. If I find it I will come back and post it here. It is expensive and I have found it under a SAAB part number for less money at a Cadillac dealer. Good luck.


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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delma Lou View Post
Our truck the does the same thing.
What I have found is if you rock the open and close button 3 or 4 times the cover will open.
I never thought of pulling up on the piece.
Bill
With the top down, check the front edge of the trunk cover for paint missing. Start by putting your head close to the surface and look from the center outwards. If the hatch is rubbing paint off the trunk, there is a mis-match in hight between the two covers and you may hear a "thunk" just before the DIC shows time out. That would indicate the rubbing.
Adjusting the Stop on the trunk hinge to lower the lid down to the fender level may help. If not, then moving the Hatch foreward on its hinge just an RCH, may give enough clearance for the hatch to lift UP before tilting and clearing the edge of the trunk lid. The Hatch should lift straight up enough to clear the Trunk lid before it starts to tilt to the open position. If it can't, it will stop. The Thunk would be your dead give-away for this. When it binds, it quits before it hurts itself, then yells time out.
Hope this helps.
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Ricochet Silver #10279/Born 05-19-04 Adopted 10-28-07/GHL "Old School" True Duals/Joe's Tune
I made an appointment with Chris at Freeway Chevy and when I got there today the cover would not lift up. We cycled it 4 or 5 times and it popped up.

He took the truck into the shop and 2 hours later he comes out and says they have it fixed.

He told me that one of the clips that hold the wire bundle was causing the problem so they turned the clip over.

I said show me what you are talking about and guess what happened when we tried to put the top down.

The cover would not pop up and we got the ROOF CYCLE TIMEOUT error.

After cycling it up and down 4 or 5 times the cover popped up.

Chris showed me the clip they turned around.



He said that I also have another problem and that is that the two pieces in this picture are coming apart and he thinks that is part of the problem also.

He said that I need to take it to a body shop and have it glued back together.

As you can see in this picture



While taking pictures I noticed that there is black tape on the passengers side but there is none on the drivers side.





He said that all the sensors are fine

So I have an alignment problem.
So what should I do next?
Take it to a Chevy dealer that has a body shop?

What are your thoughts.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 05:07 PM
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My SSR:
04 Slingshot Yellow
Here is the sequence of steps that occur while putting the roof down:
1. Driver and passenger windows index down
2. Tonneau latch extending to unlatch
3. Tonneau latch extended, opened
4. Tonneau panel extending upward, opening
5. Tonneau panel extended upward
6. Front tonneau extending
7. Front tonneau extended
8. Header latch unlatching
9. Top panel dowel pins activate that top panel is not over center and unlatched
10. Top panel retracting, to open position
11. Top panel retracted to open position
12. Tonneau panel retracting downward, closing
13. Tonneau panel closed
14. Tonneau latch, retracted
15. Audible chime 2 times indicated cycle completed
It sounds as if your roof cycle timeout (RCT) is occurring between step 4 and 5.

If I recall correctly some SSR owners were having a problem with the wire loom on the passenger side getting snagged on the metal bracket that the little round rubber bumper stop is connected to when the tonneau cover starts to lift upwards.

You might want to examine the wire loom on the passenger side (wires/fluid cables on both sides) to make sure they're not too close to this bracket when the cover is lifting upward. If it's getting caught it could put enough drag on the cover to cause it to not lift as quickly as the RDM (roof door module) expects and cause a timeout.

If this is the cause you should be able to see the upward movement of the tonneau cover slow down or be stopped momentarily.

If the tonneau cover is starting to lift upwards, then the micro switches in the side latches shouldn't be the root cause since those would prevent it from lifting at all. The RDM (I believe) would prevent the upward movement from starting if it didn't see a "state change" from the side latches.

There is a magnetic sensor in each side latch bracket as well. If the latch bracket that is bolted to the tonneau cover is somewhat bent so that the bracket is "too far towards the center of the vehicle" the gap may be too large for the sensor in the side latch bracket assembly may not detect the "upward lifting movement" of the tonneau cover.

That's all that I can come up with at the moment.


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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 12:31 PM
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My SSR:
"04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy
Ok, the problem I was having was that I could not get the top to open AT ALL. The first piece that is suppose to open would not move....and after a few seconds it would time out.

I now run the motor at a fast idle and it opens just fine (at least the last 3 times). All the threads on this were very helpful. Thanks. I surmise that the extra amps generated by the alternator must be what gives it enough power to lift that initial piece (outside, back of rear window, front of rear cover).
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 12:55 PM
 
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My SSR:
2005 slingshot and a 2006 silver FPR with chrome
Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777 View Post
Ok, the problem I was having was that I could not get the top to open AT ALL. The first piece that is suppose to open would not move....and after a few seconds it would time out.

I now run the motor at a fast idle and it opens just fine (at least the last 3 times). All the threads on this were very helpful. Thanks. I surmise that the extra amps generated by the alternator must be what gives it enough power to lift that initial piece (outside, back of rear window, front of rear cover).
I am on my 3rd SSR and all of the tops could be raised or lowered without the motor
running. If increasing the RPM causes it to work, it would appear that you are having
a voltage problem and should check your alternator output and/or battery.
By the way, if a solenoid is stuck, you should be able to lift the cover because it will
not be locked.

(727)-207-2575 or
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 05:46 PM
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My SSR:
04 Red #103444
I have a roof cycle time out issue that only occurs when the truck is heat soaked. Which in S. FL is pretty often, but, the problem does go away from Nov to April. I have found that if I press the button for a couple seconds as it strains (I can see both sides of cover have released and begun to open) release it, then press down again it finishes openning and the top goes down.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 06:29 PM
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Location: Mt. Dora, Florida
Posts: 314


My SSR:
03 Black Auto, Custom Flames, Windsupressor,Hard Saddle Bags, Bed Rail, 1SB, K&N FIPK, VIN 0718
Sounds like the rubber which runs along the top of your windshielf is sticking. I had the same problem when I did not open and close the top on a regular basis. If it is only a sticking problem get some 303 protectant. Use a lot & use it opten on all rubber gaskets.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 06:38 PM
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Location: Ventura CA
Posts: 7,221


My SSR:
"Babe" '06 Pacific Blue/Chrome/6pd #22407, born 10/14/'05, and #21393, died 2/16/'07.
I had the tech add 6" to my wiring harness on the right side, so the wiring would not bind, pull, or act up in any way. After four attempt to solve my roof time-out, this solution has been working for almost three years.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 06:22 AM
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Location: Clearwater, Fl
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
I forgot about the wire problem. We have been checking all SSR's at Tech Day for this problem.

Here are some pictures that should help. If the wires become chaffed, they short and cause roof malfunction.

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 05:20 PM
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Location: Gainesville,Ga.
Posts: 6


My SSR:
slingshot yellow 2006 fpr
I have the roof time out message
roof stops at step 7
1. Driver and passenger windows index down
2. Tonneau latch extending to unlatch
3. Tonneau latch extended, opened
4. Tonneau panel extending upward, opening
5. Tonneau panel extended upward
6. Front tonneau extending
7. Front tonneau extended
8. Header latch unlatching
9. Top panel dowel pins activate that top panel is not over center and unlatched
10. Top panel retracting, to open position
11. Top panel retracted to open position
12. Tonneau panel retracting downward, closing
13. Tonneau panel closed
14. Tonneau latch, retracted
15. Audible chime 2 times indicated cycle completed
roof does not unlatch at front
use tool to unlatch but nothing else happens
roof time out message
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 07:09 AM
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Location: Port St Lucie, FL
Posts: 1,570


My SSR:
No SSR, looking for next one;-
Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777 View Post
Ok, the problem I was having was that I could not get the top to open AT ALL. The first piece that is suppose to open would not move....and after a few seconds it would time out.

I now run the motor at a fast idle and it opens just fine (at least the last 3 times). All the threads on this were very helpful. Thanks. I surmise that the extra amps generated by the alternator must be what gives it enough power to lift that initial piece (outside, back of rear window, front of rear cover).
If your wires aren't chafed, try the easy stuff first. Have someone gently lift on the tonneau cover when you push the button. After it opens, adjust your bump stops for the cover. Make sure the rubber covers are on the stops, they tend to fall off and drop down in the compartment. To do this put a thin coat of grease on the top of the bump stop and adjust until the cover just makes contact on both sides. Then, lubricate your microswitches on both sides. I had a friend have your problem, since this fix it has worked fine for months. Also, as someone said, lubricate the rubber header gasket so it doesn't stick.

If you search the world for happiness, you may find it in the end, for the world is round and will lead you back to your door. ~Robert Brault
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