Shift Cable Repair - Page 3 - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #61 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 09:19 PM
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post #62 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Jeff, (Jeffanatic) called me this AM, said his R would not shift out of reverse, lever would move but trans stayed in reverse.
I said I thought it was shift cable, it was.
When I got to Jeff's house he had found a link "transmission shift cable broke!" using the information from RedHot2004 we repaired the cable w/some improvements, at least we think so.

Pictures:
1. Ground rivet head off shift arm.
2. Factory piece w/worn plastic piece.
3. Used 1/4x20 bolt, lock washer and "T" nut w/shoulder, removed prongs.
4. 1/4x20 bolt, lock washer, shift arm, "T" nut w/shoulder, nylon hose, 1/4x20 nut and lock nut.
5. Assembled.

Dicktator
Is it possible to drill the rivet (Step 1) instead of grinding it? If yes do you have an idea what size bit would be good?


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post #63 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak View Post
Is it possible to drill the rivet (Step 1) instead of grinding it? If yes do you have an idea what size bit would be good?
Because the head of the rivet is so much larger than the hole and hardened steel, I think it easier to grind off the head and punch it out. Bingo, hole drilled. The bolt size I am using 1/4x20 S/S. Plus getting the drill center on the rivet could be problem unless you have drill press with vise.

I did not check hole size.

Dicktator


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post #64 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 02:58 PM
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My SSR:
04 Slingshot yellow
I need to find an easy way to fit under the truck....

my floor jack cyl. failed I need to get another and some jack stands.

I can't see mine without raising truck

My other truck is a Fire Truck...

Get out tha way!!!!!
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post #65 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckie View Post
I need to find an easy way to fit under the truck....

my floor jack cyl. failed I need to get another and some jack stands.

I can't see mine without raising truck

In there, lies the problem, getting our "Good Living" under the truck.

Because I put a chin spoiler on mine, I can't drive up on my ramps anymore.

Had to jack it up and use jack stands. Not as high as ramps but it worked.

Dicktator


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post #66 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
In there, lies the problem, getting our "Good Living" under the truck.

Because I put a chin spoiler on mine, I can't drive up on my ramps anymore.

Had to jack it up and use jack stands. Not as high as ramps but it worked.

Dicktator
Just wondering .... why couldn't you back up into your ramps in the rear? That shouldn't hurt your new spoiler would it?



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post #67 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
"Afraid" it would.

Front would drag. Only have 4 1/2" clearance.

Just got to Jack the thing or a lift.
Dick

Quote:
Originally Posted by RUN ROD RUN View Post
Just wondering .... why couldn't you back up into your ramps in the rear? That shouldn't hurt your new spoiler would it?


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post #68 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 09:37 AM
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My SSR:
2004 Redline # 13665
Installed Kit

Dictator

Put the kit on last night. Took the R out for a drive this morning. It works great. This kit will out last the R no doubt. Thanks for everything. Hope to see ya down the road. Keep up the great work.

Darvel
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post #69 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 01:05 PM
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Dick, you have a pm


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post #70 of 135 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnheadz View Post
Dick, you have a pm
I went to the Post Office today to mail your Cable Repair Kit and they said "NO MAIL TO CANADA".

They will be on FULL STRIKE on Monday.

I will mail it as soon as your strike is over.

Dicktator


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post #71 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Shift Cable Kit is $8.00 + $2.00 for mailing = $10.00

Send check or cash to:

Dick Bellville
PO Box 14655
Clearwater, Fl 33766-4655


PM me for my account

ALL Automatics probably should have one, kinda like the ignition switch.

Dicktator

]


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post #72 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 11:13 AM
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My SSR:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Shift Cable Kit is $5.00 + $2.00 for mailing = $7.00

Send check or cash to:

Dick Bellville
PO Box 14655
Clearwater, Fl 33766-4655

I can take Pay Pal if you send the $7.00 as "GIFT".

PM me for my account

ALL Automatics probably should have one, kinda like the ignition switch.

Dicktator

]
Dick, Save one for me.
Check going out on Tuesday to you.
Thanks for making these parts for us!


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post #73 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 01:56 PM
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Hi Dick,

I just installed this kit today. I used my drill press to drill out the aluminum piece from the steel arm. Didn't need to paint anything that way.

I had my daughter run through the gear selections while I was watching underneath. Everything cleared except when in the 1st gear position. The nylon locking nut is right on the edge of the transmission pan. I rotated the nut so one of the flat sides of the nut were up against the pan in that position. That worked just fine. I can successfully select Park through 1st!

Thanks for creating this kit!

Now I don't have to worry about the extreme summer heat in the Sacramento valley along with the heat of the catalytic converters causing a shift linkage failure!



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post #74 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiftz33 View Post
Hi Dick,

I just installed this kit today. I used my drill press to drill out the aluminum piece from the steel arm. Didn't need to paint anything that way.

I had my daughter run through the gear selections while I was watching underneath. Everything cleared except when in the 1st gear position. The nylon locking nut is right on the edge of the transmission pan. I rotated the nut so one of the flat sides of the nut were up against the pan in that position. That worked just fine. I can successfully select Park through 1st!

Thanks for creating this kit!

Now I don't have to worry about the extreme summer heat in the Sacramento valley along with the heat of the catalytic converters causing a shift linkage failure!

Question, was your neoprene crumpling?? Or did it crumble when you remove it??

Just wondering.

Glad it went Okay. I didn't realize the nut might hit in 1st gear. I don't think I have ever had mine in 1st gear.

Dicktator


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post #75 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Question, was your neoprene crumpling?? Or did it crumble when you remove it??

Just wondering.

Glad it went Okay. I didn't realize the nut might hit in 1st gear. I don't think I have ever had mine in 1st gear.

Dicktator
Actually that was one other small change I made during the install. The neoprene in my shift cable was in great shape, so I decided to remove the rubber tubing you provide with the kit and I used a 5/16" drill to open up the neoprene in my current shift cable. I figured I'll use it that way for now and if/when the neoprene fails I can always remove it and put the kit supplied rubber tubing back in its place.

I most likely will never get down to 1st gear via the gear selector during normal driving, but the engineer in me wanted to see it operate in all positions.

When I reinstalled the shift lever onto the transmission I added a lock washer since it was a bit too easy to loosen the nut that holds it in place when I first removed it.


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post #76 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 12:43 AM
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My SSR:
"04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy
I put mine in today. I spent an hour on it. If I were to do another one I can see it really being a 20 minute operation. What I didn't realize at first was that you can just pull off the cable connection off at the neoprene. Also the shift lever on mine was reluctant to come off the transmission. But all is good in the end. Looks like a good install. Thanks Dictator. I'm about to watch some fireworks.
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post #77 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
(Actually that was one other small change I made during the install. The neoprene in my shift cable was in great shape, so I decided to remove the rubber tubing you provide with the kit and I used a 5/16" drill to open up the neoprene in my current shift cable. I figured I'll use it that way for now and if/when the neoprene fails I can always remove it and put the kit supplied rubber tubing back in its place.)

Interesting that you would drill out the neoprene and use that over the Poly material. Neoprene is what is failing on the shift arm.

But, you explained it well, your an Engineer. They never use or are satisfied with any design. That is why we have GREAT products. Engineers always try to improve or redesign anything they see. It's in their DNA.

I would have saved the neoprene.

Glad it on and working well. Better system than OEM because it "traps" the cable between to fixed points.

Dicktator


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post #78 of 135 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 07:13 PM
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My SSR:
04 Slingshot yellow
I Installed my Kit today.

This is a much better setup than the part that was there.

Dictator was awesome on the question I had on how to get the old white piece out. (very slow speed cordless drill and a bit that just barely fit in the hole) a couple of slow trigger pulls and I was able to just push the old white piece out.

I used my dremel and a grinding bit to remove the rivet end on the shift arm.
Then scuffed the whole arm up a bit so I could prime and paint it nice and black again.

He also recommended I put the bolt in so the hex head was in the inside position through the cable then the arm and put washer and nut on the outboard end. ( shifts through all positions with no issues)



Thanks Dictator!!!!!

My other truck is a Fire Truck...

Get out tha way!!!!!
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post #79 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 01:12 PM
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I am new to this forum and a SSR. I would like to purchase a repair kit if you still have one. How do I send the payment to you?

Thank you

John Biondi-Arizona
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post #80 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyfan View Post
I am new to this forum and a SSR. I would like to purchase a repair kit if you still have one. How do I send the payment to you?

Thank you

John Biondi-Arizona
Post
#71

But hopefully Dick will see this and update his post #1 of this thread to feature latest information and payment information.


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post #81 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 03:44 PM
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SE Rad support, Frame Plate, Main Fan. Otherwise stock.
Dicktator,
Is there some advantage to using the tygon/PVC tubing as the wear bushing in the shift fix? Cushioning, noise, damping, etc.? Wouldn't you get a more positive feel if the bushing was made to tighter tolerances and made from a harder but lubricious plastic such as Delrin or equivalent?
Bobo
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post #82 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
I made up six shift cable repair kits today, Stainless w/locknut.

Pictures:

1. Assembled and unassembled. 1/4x20 SS bolt 1" long, SS internal tooth washer, "T" 1/4x20 nut, nylon hose over sleeve, flat SS washer, SS locknut.

2. Assembled.
Can I buy a trans repair kit? I am not sure that I can open a reply on this forum so can you email me at "[email protected]" with the info-paypal #, etc.?

thanks

John
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post #83 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Have some kits made. Changed mine today.

How about $5.00 plus $2.00 for mailing.

ALL Automatics probably should have one, kinda like the ignition switch.

Dicktator

Pictures:
1. Cam and neoprene clip
2. Removed clip, disintegrated, dried up.
3. Grind off revet head on cam.
4. Spray paint bare metal
5. Attach to arm and slide thru hole in cable.
Can I order one?
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post #84 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyfan View Post
Can I buy a trans repair kit? I am not sure that I can open a reply on this forum so can you email me at "[email protected]" with the info-paypal #, etc.?

thanks

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyfan View Post
Can I order one?
Hey John,

If you are close, you can swing by my house and pick one up. I live in Ahwatukee and have a few on hand...

Mike

One of the "Blues Brothers"

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post #85 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Unfortunately I have to raise the price of the Shift Cable Repair Kit.
I didn't want to do it.

You can also get my Kit from Mike in AZ.

Shift Cable Kit is $8.00 + $2.00 for mailing = $10.00

Send check/cash or PayPal to: (PM me for my PayPal account)


Dicktator
PO Box 14655
Clearwater, Fl 33766-4655


ALL Automatics probably should be changed for preventive maintenance.

Don't break down on the road and have to be towed in, save "Hundred $$$" and put a kit on today. You will glad you did. Comes with all instructions and you can DIY.
Dicktator

Pictures:
1. OEM cable connection.
2. Neoprene/pin that holds your shift cable on. Dries out from Catalytic Converter and falls apart.
3. My Stainless Steel Kit.
4. Shift Cable Kit installed.
Attached Thumbnails
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post #86 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 04:41 PM
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My SSR:
06 Blue/Black - 1SS
Got my shift cable fixed last nite - finally.

Amazingly - at 57k miles - the neoprene was still intact, stretchy, and a pain to get out.

I kept remembering the bold red letters - don't twist or pull. BUT I REALLY REALLY WANTED TO TWIST AND PULL.

Thank you Dictator.

>>>Rod<<<


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#3 of 9 Factory - Pac Blue / Smokin Asphalt
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post #87 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 04:45 PM
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BlueBelle
Dick, I installed your kit, but I have one small question. I noticed that the filler for the shift cable hole is a plastic part. Will that have any effect if it goes the way of the neoprene insert?

Would a metal insert work better?

Thank you very much for the "fix" it went together easily and works wonderfully!
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post #88 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
04 Silver/Race Stripes 4:10 gears tuned at 130mph lowered 2"
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrdwzrd View Post
Dick, I installed your kit, but I have one small question. I noticed that the filler for the shift cable hole is a plastic part. Will that have any effect if it goes the way of the neoprene insert?

Would a metal insert work better?

Thank you very much for the "fix" it went together easily and works wonderfully!
I looked at what GM had used, neoprene and decided on clear fuel line hose. Strong, perfect fit and "plastic to plastic", if you will. They, GM, didn't use metal to plastic, so I didn't either.

IF it wears out and I am not sure it will, it will not FALL OFF like the GM unit does.

May get sloppy and you will feel that on your shift lever. By the way, the upper Shift Cable is the same GM pin/neoprene holding it on the shift lever.

I have put 50K on since my change and all is good.

When it has seen 100K and still in tack, then we will know for sure.

I have over 300 out there now.

Dicktator


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post #89 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 08:10 PM
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My SSR:
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Well, if it does "wear out" I may try a metal piece, someday.

Thanks for the reply!
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post #90 of 135 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 02:55 PM
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Finally had a breakin the weather and my schedule. Although it too me a bit longer than 30 minutes, my shifter be a shiften agin. :-) Thanks to all that lead the way and for doumenting their fixes (and findings) for this "never shoudda happened" failure.

Thanks Zeke

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