SSR stereo upgrade/nav - Page 2 - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #31 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 09:56 AM
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I just had one installed in my 06 pioneer 2500 it does both apple and android car play where I can plug my phone in for gps it and install was 600 great unit.
Sweet. Looks like there are a couple of places still selling the 2500. It's certainly closer to the price-range I had in mind. I'll have to have a closer look.

Thanks!

Cheers,

Rich


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post #32 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 06:04 AM
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My SSR:
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VMAX1244: Neat looking setup. Like your Reatta & SSR combo as they were both built at the Lansing Craft Centre. Reatta production was the reason the old forge plant was converted to a car assembly plant in the first place. Reatta and SSR sandwiched EV and Eldorado production but without the Reatta in the first place, maybe the SSR would never have happened.

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post #33 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 03:37 PM
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Interesting to go through this. I too am just in the midst of changing my factory head unit. I chose the Pioneer DMH-C2550NEX from Crutchfield (I am VERY pleased with their customer service and tech support). It is NOT a capacitive screen, but it works/looks better than other manufacturers capacitive screens. Yes, it would be nice if it was brighter, but no one seems to make a convertible-friendly screen. Just read the Jeep forums...

I had to nibble a corner out of the radio box to clear the USB connection. It just fits without cutting the metal support. Note: When I took the screw out to carve the plastic, the dash became VERY flimsy, so I would avoid cutting the metal at all costs. I could probably take 1/4" without negatively affecting it, but my Dremel bit broke...

I chose this unit as I THOUGHT it could be assembled with the "radio" portion (single DIN section) at the top of the screen section unfortunately it cannot. The depth of the radio section is almost identical to the lower half of the Bose radio, except for the aforementioned USB.

This unit does not have a CD/DVD slot (can't remember the last time I played one). It doesn't have Sirius either (yes there is a module; no, you couldn't pay me to take it). I have found that if I can't stream Spotify, Sirius is cutting out, so off to HD/FM radio I go. I prefer Waze for navigation and it automatically downloads the route map in case it loses cell signal. This is primarily an Android Auto/Apple CarPlay unit with an HD/FM/AM tuner.

I'm waiting on an AUX/USB socket and backup camera's arrival before I button everything up. I was going to put the socket in the ashtray, but after using it for a few days I will be putting it in the glovebox or console. No loose cords that way. The camera is going to be drilled into the bumper. The exact position will depend on the field of view and depth. I suspect it will be centered above the license plate in that 2" raised section, but it may need to be higher.

Fixed a couple of loose vent fins (nightmare with my fat fingers) while everything is apart.

I read that Mercedes and BMW put their microphones on the steering columns in their convertibles. I tried it there and can use the phone, or talk to Google at 60mph; top down! GM mounts theirs on the A-post in The convertible Corvettes, but I had a terrible time with my sun-visor mounted bluetooth phone adapter in that location. It was useless with the top down, and I don't drive with the top UP! I think the microphone will get permanently mounted on the column, or tucked in the gauge cluster. Still undecided.

What a pile of cables! I soldered and shrink wrapped everything then wrapped in hockey tape to prevent vibration. Steering wheel controls work EXACTLY like factory. I could not add a long press control, as Pioneer uses long presses exactly like the Bose unit. The Bose amp is integrated as well.

I also played around in Photoshop and made the background fit the layout of the radio screen. I likey!

Now, these speakers sound like poop... Next project!

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post #34 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 09:49 PM
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I too just got a new upgrade for the 'R (and from Crutchfield too - got most of my car audio gear there). I went with Kenwood this time because of the Garmin navigation. I put a Pioneer AVIC-NEX in the Impala and it was Ok.... Audio stuff was fine, but navigation was lacking. As I do not have a smart phone (nor do I really want one either), I need to stick with embedded navigation. I do have a Nuvi and DriveSmart "portable" units too, but I really need a tunes update regardless.


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post #35 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 10:41 PM
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I went with the Kenwood Model DNN992, way too many bells and whistles, and most go unused. can't watch a DVD while I'm driving, so what's the point of having it. Too much money but it works very well.
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post #36 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 09:36 AM
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My SSR:
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Question? What happens to the SSR Security System built into the OEM Radio??

Is it gone? Does horn still blow, "unknown driver" on CID so you can't start/steal SSR?

Just wondering.

Dicktator
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post #37 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by IFytFyrs View Post
Interesting to go through this. I too am just in the midst of changing my factory head unit. I chose the Pioneer DMH-C2550NEX from Crutchfield (I am VERY pleased with their customer service and tech support). It is NOT a capacitive screen, but it works/looks better than other manufacturers capacitive screens. Yes, it would be nice if it was brighter, but no one seems to make a convertible-friendly screen. <snip>
Nice write-up, thanks! Quick question... aside from the physical mods, are there any specific things you ran into that you'd do differently or to watch out for?

Reason I ask is I'm about to replace the factory/Bose system in our R with a new Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX. I'm guessing most of the connections, etc. are very similar if not identical to yours (and there look to be a bazillion of them). So any Pioneer-specific advice before I tear into everything would be most welcome!

I'm going to deal with the vent fins, stepper motors and such while I'm in there too.

Anyone other experts that would like to chime in would be richly rewarded with many "likes" as well.

TIA!

Cheers,

Rich


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post #38 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ssr71 View Post
I went with Kenwood this time because of the Garmin navigation.
If I had wanted built-in nav, I too would have gone with the Kenwood. I have 3 Garmin units and had 2 more purchased for the fire trucks recently. Garmin is the top, IMHO! That said, Waze knocks its socks off...

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post #39 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Does horn still blow, "unknown driver" on CID so you can't start/steal SSR?
I'll have to experiment. I'm unaware of the UNKNOWN DRIVER message. How would I trigger that?

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post #40 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richsadams View Post
I'm about to replace the factory/Bose system in our R with a new Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX.


...I'm going to deal with the vent fins, stepper motors and such while I'm in there too.
The two biggest issues are fitting the factory hole, and getting all the wires/interface modules tucked in properly. I was tempted to pull the dash cover panel (may still) to allow for pulling the wires into a safe space. ALL of the wires you see taped up go between the radio and the factory wiring harness, as opposed to the factory wiring harness simply plugging into the back of the radio. Makes for a bulky mess. I may have done better to leave more wire between the interface and the new radio. This would allow me to tuck the module in first, then just deal with the final connection at the radio. Of course you still have to deal with camera/AUX/USB etcetera leads.

The PAC RP5-GM11 has OnStar features as well. I cut the OnStar-specific connector and wires out to reduce the unnecessary cabling.

The RP5 outputs the reverse, parking-brake and illumination signals. Note: The radio will not dim or brighten with the dash lights. It is a simple on/off signal. I set mine up to dim based on the time is set, as I like to drive with my lights on (this would send the DIM signal).

Good luck!

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post #41 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by IFytFyrs View Post
The two biggest issues are fitting the factory hole, and getting all the wires/interface modules tucked in properly. I was tempted to pull the dash cover panel (may still) to allow for pulling the wires into a safe space. ALL of the wires you see taped up go between the radio and the factory wiring harness, as opposed to the factory wiring harness simply plugging into the back of the radio. Makes for a bulky mess. I may have done better to leave more wire between the interface and the new radio. This would allow me to tuck the module in first, then just deal with the final connection at the radio. Of course you still have to deal with camera/AUX/USB etcetera leads.

The PAC RP5-GM11 has OnStar features as well. I cut the OnStar-specific connector and wires out to reduce the unnecessary cabling.

The RP5 outputs the reverse, parking-brake and illumination signals. Note: The radio will not dim or brighten with the dash lights. It is a simple on/off signal. I set mine up to dim based on the time is set, as I like to drive with my lights on (this would send the DIM signal).

Good luck!

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Excellent... all good info.

I posted a link to Duff's stereo installation video a little while back. I can't recall if it's in that one or another one, but he ended up pulling the dash cover to better get at the wiring and from what I recall he didn't seem to think it was worth the trouble. I'll have to go back and look at it again though.

I'll be using a custom-made Crux interface I picked up from another Fanatic (RG) that's supposed to keep everything intact including steering wheel controls, etc. Also adding an AutoVox Cam 6 backup camera several other Fanatics recommended to the mix. Fun stuff!

Thanks again!

UPDATE: Here's Duff's video about removing the dash cover (he doesn't follow Dicktator's advice regarding cutting a couple of notches to access the instrument cluster's two top bolts)...


Cheers,

Rich


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post #42 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richsadams View Post
...I'm about to replace the factory/Bose system in our R with a new Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX.
Rich, I have determined that the chime module is unnecessary too... Another piece you don't have to jam into the hole! The chimes seem to be generated through the Bose amp, as I will hear dings through the speakers while the radio is booting up. The tone-shift when the top is raised/lowered still functions too.

Mounted my backup camera finally. It is wired into the reverse lights, so is only available when backing. The field of view (170) requires the camera to be mounted with a down angle. If I had mounted it in the bumper, where I had originally planned, I would see the ground about 8 feet behind. Useless for parking! I fabricated a little bracket to tuck it up above the license plate. I will have to drill another hole to allow the camera a little more "down" angle, as the back is hitting the bumper, and I want another 15 or so. Right now I lose vision about 2' behind the bumper. I want to be able to see right behind the bumper.

Still waiting on the USB/Aux port to finish the installation...

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post #43 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:50 AM
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You haven't told me if your Security System is still in tac.

Do you still have OEM Security or not?

Dicktator


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post #44 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Do you still have OEM Security or not?
Hi Dick,
I was waiting for your answer on the UNKNOWN DRIVER message... The security light is still active in the cluster, and the horn blows if you open a door once it has activated. No LED on the radio though. I am not familiar with the UNKNOWN DRIVER message, or how to trigger it to test.

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post #45 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 02:55 PM
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You haven't told me if your Security System is still in tac.

Do you still have OEM Security or not?

Dicktator
Dicktator, The security system, coupled with my Pioneer aftermarket system, still works as advertised. Horn blows if I open the door after locking with the key fob.
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post #46 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 04:25 PM
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Rich, I have determined that the chime module is unnecessary too... Another piece you don't have to jam into the hole! The chimes seem to be generated through the Bose amp, as I will hear dings through the speakers while the radio is booting up. The tone-shift when the top is raised/lowered still functions too.

Mounted my backup camera finally. It is wired into the reverse lights, so is only available when backing. The field of view (170) requires the camera to be mounted with a down angle. If I had mounted it in the bumper, where I had originally planned, I would see the ground about 8 feet behind. Useless for parking! I fabricated a little bracket to tuck it up above the license plate. I will have to drill another hole to allow the camera a little more "down" angle, as the back is hitting the bumper, and I want another 15 or so. Right now I lose vision about 2' behind the bumper. I want to be able to see right behind the bumper.

Still waiting on the USB/Aux port to finish the installation...

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All good info!

I was just looking in the box and mine didn't come with the chime module I guess. Nice job on the backup camera. A little less obvious than the one I installed. The camera on ours is on a little tab so it can be bent up or down. No idea what it's "looking at" currently... still working up the nerve to install the stereo.

Where are you going to place your USB/Aux port?

BTW, as a backstop to the Crux adapter I bought from RG, I ordered a PAC RP5-GM11 like you used. I didn't want to find out the Crux doesn't work and be left hanging. I'm leaving the PAC unit sealed up for now so I can return it if it's not needed (fingers crossed) but it's a little peace of mind.

I've also decided to leave the instrument cluster alone. I was going to check to see if it has the newer stepper motors, but I found paperwork from the original showing that he took it into the Chevy dealer complaining that the speedo was hanging sometimes. By the part number and description they replaced the entire instrument cluster under an extended warranty in 2013. So the stepper motors were a known issue by then and I'm hoping that the new cluster has them. None of the gauges have been problematic, so if it ain't broke and so on.

Thanks for the added info, it's super helpful. I don't know how many more installation DIY videos I can watch. My excuses are about exhausted plus I need to get the new Pioneer stereo up and running before the 15th so if it does have any issues I'm still inside the 30 day return window. Wish me luck!
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Cheers,

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post #47 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 05:16 PM
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Where are you going to place your USB/Aux port?
Hi Rich! I've done stepper motors 3 times... The last time I overheated the circuit board. I found a local shop that was able to repair my screw-up and replace them all for CDN$100. I was good with that!

After driving around with the USB cable, I have found that I like putting my phone in the console. This creates a puzzle, as the USB port I ordered has a 1 metre cable. I suspect I need more than that to get it into the console. I want to mount it at the rear of the console, under the hinge.

Pioneer does not recommend extension cables, so I will have to test when it arrives. I have a switch (no longer used) in my ashtray from my FM modulator. I was going to put the port there, BUT I prefer the console AND if I plug into the ashtray, I will have a cable snaking into the console anyway.

Always a puzzle! I am a bit of a perfectionist, so it will be PERFECT when I am done. Until then...a bit of a mess

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post #48 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 05:49 PM
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Hi Rich! I've done stepper motors 3 times... The last time I overheated the circuit board. I found a local shop that was able to repair my screw-up and replace them all for CDN$100. I was good with that!

After driving around with the USB cable, I have found that I like putting my phone in the console. This creates a puzzle, as the USB port I ordered has a 1 metre cable. I suspect I need more than that to get it into the console. I want to mount it at the rear of the console, under the hinge.

Pioneer does not recommend extension cables, so I will have to test when it arrives. I have a switch (no longer used) in my ashtray from my FM modulator. I was going to put the port there, BUT I prefer the console AND if I plug into the ashtray, I will have a cable snaking into the console anyway.

Always a puzzle! I am a bit of a perfectionist, so it will be PERFECT when I am done. Until then...a bit of a mess

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Cool! Looking forward to photos of course.

Cheers,

Rich


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post #49 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 06:58 AM
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I generally place my USB port in the glove box. Since I usually only use it for a flash drive to hold my music, I don't need to see it. Phone can charge from a 12v power adapter.
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post #50 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 09:48 AM
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I generally place my USB port in the glove box. Since I usually only use it for a flash drive to hold my music, I don't need to see it. Phone can charge from a 12v power adapter.
Since our iPhones will communicate with the Pioneer unit via Bluetooth, I think that's what I'll do as well.

I'm going to change the serpentine and A/C belts this morning while it's still cool and then put the top up and park it in the sun for a while to soften up the dash. Then, look out!

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post #51 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 12:07 AM
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Installed the new Pioneer stereo today and it was terrific, until it wasn't.

I created a new post here in hopes of getting some fast answers because it's in pieces and I hope I can get it sorted out ASAP.

Help here or on that thread would really be appreciated. TIA!

UPDATE: Problem (may be) solved. Dead battery. I guess I played around too long because I went to start it up and just got that familiar "click-click-click". It's too late at night to fire her up and not wake the neighbors, so I'll jump it in the morning and report back. Phew! I hope.

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post #52 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 12:46 AM
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Dicktator, The security system, coupled with my Pioneer aftermarket system, still works as advertised. Horn blows if I open the door after locking with the key fob.
Thanks Carl, They have come a long way in aftermarket radios, used to be a mess, understand they come with "pig tail" plugins that do not change security.

Yes, lock R with FOB, lift lock knob, open door, horn should blow, try to start without proper key, CID will say "UNKNOW DRIVER" and lock R from starting.

OEM radio is programed by your R vin#. You can not exchange OEM radio from one R to another without Dealer programming to your R vin#.

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post #53 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 12:59 AM
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My SSR:
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richsadams, SSR has 12 Volt Battery and ignition switch MUST see 9 volts to start/run R.

9 from 12 only leave 3 volts to play with.

That is why you must be careful not to play around with out starting R.

IF you run roof without R engine running you will only get a few times and R won't start.

Roof takes 13amp to run!

Strongly suggest you run R when running roof.

You may have damaged your ignition switch when you ran down battery and "jumped" to start.

EVERYTHING goes thru ignition switch.

5 sets of points in switch which handles 12VDC and sends signal to engine computer in Milliamps and Millivolts. Wrong signal, wrong results. I have seen where windows won't go down, radio won't work, won't shift into overdrive.

SSR has Multiplex Class 2 wiring, GROUND completes the circuit.

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post #54 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IFytFyrs View Post
Interesting to go through this. I too am just in the midst of changing my factory head unit. I chose the Pioneer DMH-C2550NEX from Crutchfield (I am VERY pleased with their customer service and tech support). It is NOT a capacitive screen, but it works/looks better than other manufacturers capacitive screens. Yes, it would be nice if it was brighter, but no one seems to make a convertible-friendly screen. Just read the Jeep forums... <snip>
Quick question while I'm thinking about it... what are the settings on your Pioneer Stereo for your backup camera?

The reason I ask is that I connected mine to the new Pioneer stereo and although it would come on when I put it in reverse, when I'd take it out of reverse the screen would go black and it wouldn't switch back to normal.

After playing with the settings a few different ways it ended up with a totally blank screen except when I put it in reverse and then the camera would come on.

I had to disconnect the Pioneer and let it sit for a minute or two, reconnect it and everything was fine... until I tried the backup camera again. It would come on as expected, but refused to go back to normal when I took it out of reverse. I've attached photos of the various settings I tried (after watching umpteen YouTube DIY videos).

I have the backup camera connected to the backup lights and grounded to the body. There is a hot wire that comes out of the video lead but the instructions said that most stereos don't need it.

Ultimately I left it disconnected with an RCA cable extension attached so I can reconnect it after I put the dash back in.
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Cheers,

Rich


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post #55 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
richsadams, SSR has 12 Volt Battery and ignition switch MUST see 9 volts to start/run R.

9 from 12 only leave 3 volts to play with.

That is why you must be careful not to play around with out starting R.

IF you run roof without R engine running you will only get a few times and R won't start.

Roof takes 13amp to run!

Strongly suggest you run R when running roof.

You may have damaged your ignition switch when you ran down battery and "jumped" to start.

EVERYTHING goes thru ignition switch.

5 sets of points in switch which handles 12VDC and sends signal to engine computer in Milliamps and Millivolts. Wrong signal, wrong results. I have seen where windows won't go down, radio won't work, won't shift into overdrive.

SSR has Multiplex Class 2 wiring, GROUND completes the circuit.

Dicktator
Thanks Dicktator... you're up late as well!

I only ran the stereo today, and moved the passenger seat up (and back) once to check fuses. I did start and run it after I replaced the serpentine and A.C. belts earlier but not for very long, probably not long enough to recharge from just starting it up.

Cleary I used too much juice today though. I haven't tried jump starting it yet, waiting until morning.

I have a new ignition switch just in case.

I'll keep in mind that I need to run it more often when I'm working on it to keep it charged up though.

Cheers,

Rich


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post #56 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssr71 View Post
I generally place my USB port in the glove box. Since I usually only use it for a flash drive to hold my music,
My phone is, essentially, part of the radio, so needs to be plugged into the USB port. The glove box is too far a reach from the driver's seat. If I had a phone holder of some sort, I could use the ashtray option, but the console seems best to me.

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post #57 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richsadams View Post
Since our iPhones will communicate with the Pioneer unit via Bluetooth, I think that's what I'll do as well
iPhone?!? Android all the way!!!

I don't get texts read unless the phone is connected via cable and Android Auto is active. If I switch to the home screen, I will get a little chime. Not like factory systems.

Bluetooth works great for talking on the phone and music streaming, but Android Auto and Apple CarPlay require a cable connection (except for a few VERY high end radios, and only with a few phones). You will need to connect and disconnect via cable...

Here are my camera setting screens...

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post #58 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by IFytFyrs View Post
iPhone?!? Android all the way!!!

I don't get texts read unless the phone is connected via cable and Android Auto is active. If I switch to the home screen, I will get a little chime. Not like factory systems.

Bluetooth works great for talking on the phone and music streaming, but Android Auto and Apple CarPlay require a cable connection (except for a few VERY high end radios, and only with a few phones). You will need to connect and disconnect via cable...

Here are my camera setting screens...

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Awesome, thanks for that! I'm going back to work on it this morning so I'll futz around with that again.

So is your backup camera connected like mine... tapped into the backup lights and grounded to the frame?

Actually the Pioneer stereo I bought (AVH-W4400NEX) doesn't require any physical connection at all... it's fully Bluetooth for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. Works great. I was playing back my wife's messages with our neighbor out loud while they were hanging around... pretty funny. It does have USB and AUX connectors that I'll put that in the glovebox, but I doubt I'll ever use them. Modern technology has come a long way since I was hanging eight-tracks under the dash.

Thanks again!

Cheers,

Rich


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post #59 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 09:22 AM
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My SSR:
2004 Smokin' Asphalt #8480 - Born April 15, 2004 - Adopted March 1, 2010 - K&N,Diablo, WindsuppreSSR
I just tapped the two lines to the left backup light. Figured it was a decent ground, but it should function exactly the same.

Curious: I thought the wireless AA/CP used a WiFi modem in the radio, not BT. I knew my phone was compatible, but I'm OK with the cable (as the factory systems we have all need cabling). So yours prompts/reads via BT? Cool!

The microphone on the steering column works so well. I was in a strong cross wind yesterday. I had to roll up the window to hear my wife, but she could hear me fine!

Make sure you are connected to the right cable. I have 3 camera inputs and connected the WRONG one the first time. Spent an hour troubleshooting what I thought was a fried camera before I realized me mistake...

When you get up and running, my background should fit perfectly on your home screen.

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post #60 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 11:19 AM
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As Dicktator and others (even myself for once!) surmised, my sudden lack of sound was due to a dead battery. I jump-started it with the wife's car this morning and life is good again. Audio, video and everything else on the new stereo works as expected. : Phew!

Thanks so much for the help!
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Cheers,

Rich


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