Removing Wheels - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Removing Wheels

After getting the lug nuts off, I can't get the wheel off. I thought of using a gear puller, but I'm afraid I will bend those beautiful chrome wheels. I have sprayed PB blaster everywhere to no avail. Kicking, thumping, and cussing have not resolved my issue. Has anyone encountered this trouble?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 04:47 PM
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edbudvig

I'm having the same problem! Does anyone have an answer for seized front tire/rim?
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 04:57 PM
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Loosen the lug nuts but don't remove them then drive it forward then reverse a couple of times in your garage( one wheel at a time ) or try hitting the tire on the back side with board with the lug nuts loose. Once you get them loose put some never seize on the back of the wheel on the contact surface so it doesn't happen again !!!!!

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 05:20 PM
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My SSR:
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When my R was in the shop the other day for front brake pad replacement, the mechanic had the same problem. After all the standard approaches failed, he took a small sledge hammer & made meaningful impact on the inside of the rim while the R was on a lift. Off it came & without any damage. Key point is to have tire off the ground.

Hope this helps,
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 05:21 PM
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My SSR:
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The first time I tried to remove the front wheels I couldn't get them off. I ended up getting a 2x4 and a small sledgehammer and whaling on the back of the wheel until it finally broke loose. I then cleaned up the hub lip or flange until it was free of any rust and sprayed it with WD40. I have since taken the wheels off multiple times with no problem.

Dave
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 05:46 PM
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I put a 2x4 on the inside across the tire & rim and used a small sledge hammer to break it free.


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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Dean View Post
Loosen the lug nuts but don't remove them then drive it forward then reverse a couple of times in your garage( one wheel at a time ) or try hitting the tire on the back side with board with the lug nuts loose. Once you get them loose put some never seize on the back of the wheel on the contact surface so it doesn't happen again !!!!!

Welcome From Western Pa !!!!!!!
You don't want any lube on the wheel/rotor flat surfaces, only a minor amount on the hub and wheel center. The strength of the interface is a combination of two clean/flat surfaces and the proper torque of the studs!
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 06:12 PM
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The first time I encountered the wheel removal problem was when I took my "R" to Cal-Tire for new front tires. The manager removed the lug nuts and tried to pull the wheel off. Needless to say he didn't try for very long. He left momentarily and when he returned he had a piece of 2X4 about 4 feet long and an 8 pound sledge. I got a little excited and ask what he intended to do, he laughed and said don't worry, many vehicles use a hub flange to center the wheel, others use specific diameter lug nuts to center the wheel. He laid the 2X4 on edge on the ground against the tire with the tire just off the ground, and with one moderate smack the wheel came loose, the rim was never in jeopardy. That was most likely the first time the wheel had ever been off as the truck only had 25,000 miles and the inner block on both tires were showing excessive wear and some exposed cord. A wheel alignment check was performed and the alignment was only 3% off factory specks so I'll be getting a lower radiator mount from simple engineering and new alignment with the camber and toein settings posted on this site. Perhaps the reinforcing plate to replace the Xbrace after that.
James Dean has a good suggestion with the never seize, however more is not always better, a little goes a long way.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gr8XLr8r View Post
The first time I encountered the wheel removal problem was when I took my "R" to Cal-Tire for new front tires. The manager removed the lug nuts and tried to pull the wheel off. Needless to say he di dn't try for very long. He left momentarily and when he returned he had a piece of 2X4 about 4 feet long and an 8 pound sledge. I got a little excited and ask what he intended to do, he laughed and said don't worry, many vehicles use a hub flange to center the wheel, others use specific diameter lug nuts to center the wheel. He laid the 2X4 on edge on the ground against the tire with the tire just off the ground, and with one moderate smack the wheel came loose, the rim was never in jeopardy. That was most likely the first time the wheel had ever been off as the truck only had 25,000 miles and the inner block on both tires were showing excessive wear and some exposed cord. A wheel alignment check was performed and the alignment was only 3% off factory specks so I'll be getting a lower radiator mount from simple engineering and new alignment with the camber and toein settings posted on this site. Perhaps the reinforcing plate to replace the Xbrace after that.
James Dean has a good suggestion with the never seize, however more is not always better, a little goes a long way.
I had trouble getting the wheels off my Traiblazer the first time 10 years ago and put never seize on the hub flange one time and have never had a problem with it since and have summer and winter wheels for it. That one time has keep it from corroding all these years !!!!

Jim & Sherrie

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 06:36 PM
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Amazing how unlike metals attract. I have an aluminum hitch with a stainless steel locking pin, and forgot to lube the pin a few years ago. The hitch was subjected to the usual winter conditions including salt, and by spring the pin was impossible to get off. I beat it, oiled it, used CLR on it, beat it some more, but that pin is permanently welded to the aluminum hitch.


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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Flassh View Post
Amazing how unlike metals attract. I have an aluminum hitch with a stainless steel locking pin, and forgot to lube the pin a few years ago. The hitch was subjected to the usual winter conditions including salt, and by spring the pin was impossible to get off. I beat it, oiled it, used CLR on it, beat it some more, but that pin is permanently welded to the aluminum hitch.
Try some heat on that aluminum hitch. Get it to the right temp and you should be able to drive the pin out.

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 07:46 PM
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Having the same problem several years ago was solved by loosening the lug nuts by a couple of turns and took the vehicle out on the street
driving it about 10 mph and hit the brakes. Then took the SSR back in the garage to remove the wheel with no fuss. Needless to say anti-seize
was the order of the day around the hub that makes contact with the wheel. LAZY ONE
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAZY ONE View Post
Having the same problem several years ago was solved by loosening the lug nuts by a couple of turns and took the vehicle out on the street
driving it about 10 mph and hit the brakes. Then took the SSR back in the garage to remove the wheel with no fuss. Needless to say anti-seize
was the order of the day around the hub that makes contact with the wheel. LAZY ONE
Personally, I'm not real comfortable with this method, as you're shocking the studs in a shear direction. Considering the weight of our rides this isn't the best approach.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 07:30 AM
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OK Newbies/ and ALL owners Just another reason to read the Forum every day. The take away here is check this out BEFORE there is a need to remove the tire on the road or in a shop where the guy trying to take the tire off doesn't damage your rim.

Oh and I always apply a fresh coat of High Temp, grease to the wheel studs and the back side of the rim. Easy on and off after that for 7 years.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 08:34 AM
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My SSR:
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Side note! Don't put air impact on lug nut unless it has adjustable torque.

It is recommended that you or shop HAND torque lug nuts to 100lbs.

Rims are cast and will crack. Early SSR problems where "cracked" rims.

At that time there were plenty of rims around which is not the case anymore.

Alignment Specs.

Caster 4.25 +/- 0.5 Set to max and equal both sides

Cross Caster 0.0 +/- 0.3

Camber -0.5 +/- 0.5
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Change Camber to 0 and change Toe to 0 to eliminate inner scuffing.


Wheel lug nut torque 110 lbs MAXIMUM.


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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 08:43 AM
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I feel bad for Gooberdick (funny name to say out loud)...
...he asked ONE QUESTION...2 years and 8 months ago!!

I guess he can finally get that wheel off the R now (along with @edbudvig )!!

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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 09:04 AM
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Yes, I saw that Alex aka CruDawg but we were really answering "edbudvig" who revived the question.

We went by Warren Robins last week to spend Thanksgiving with my Daughter near Columbia, SC, sorry didn't have time to stop.

Maybe next time.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
...We went by Warren Robins last week to spend Thanksgiving with my Daughter near Columbia, SC, sorry didn't have time to stop....
Totally understand you not wanting to stop...last time you did, it cost you a water pump!!!

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 10:03 AM
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Torque specs are based on dry threads. Lubricants on the threads can reduce torque readings up to 40%. I learned from a millwright to Never lubricate bolts or studs that require critical consistent torque specs. Can lead to bolt stretching, breaking or damage to the bolted parts. If you are concerned about corrosion apply a light coating of penetrant and wipe it dry. Penetrant has very little lubricity.
Clean the threads thoroughly. Ok to put some grease around the hub to prevent the wheel from sticking.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Texasbaehr View Post
Torque specs are based on dry threads. Lubricants on the threads can reduce torque readings up to 40%. I learned from a millwright to Never lubricate bolts or studs that require critical consistent torque specs. Can lead to bolt stretching, breaking or damage to the bolted parts. If you are concerned about corrosion apply a light coating of penetrant and wipe it dry. Penetrant has very little lubricity.
Clean the threads thoroughly. Ok to put some grease around the hub to prevent the wheel from sticking.
Thanks! Good advice.

Dicktator
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruDawg View Post
I feel bad for Gooberdick (funny name to say out loud)...
...he asked ONE QUESTION...2 years and 8 months ago!!

I guess he can finally get that wheel off the R now (along with @edbudvig )!!
Especially if you were to use it in a sentence and have to pause to sneeze or something like.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 05:25 PM
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This is another case of if you think you'll ever have to do it, the first time would best be in your driveway on a pleasant afternoon, rather than 3 AM, on the road, in a storm, when your passenger has to pee real bad.

From the net...
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	torque1.jpg
Views:	40
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Name:	torque2.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	64.7 KB
ID:	537709  

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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHotSSR View Post
OK Newbies/ and ALL owners Just another reason to read the Forum every day. The take away here is check this out BEFORE there is a need to remove the tire on the road or in a shop where the guy trying to take the tire off doesn't damage your rim.

Oh and I always apply a fresh coat of High Temp, grease to the wheel studs and the back side of the rim. Easy on and off after that for 7 years.
Once again, lube on the wheel center hole is good, but lube on the back side of the wheel is counter productive. You want a clean dry connection between the wheel and the rotor, for best rotational grip and least stress on the studs!

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 08:37 PM
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My SSR:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasbaehr View Post
Torque specs are based on dry threads. Lubricants on the threads can reduce torque readings up to 40%. I learned from a millwright to Never lubricate bolts or studs that require critical consistent torque specs. Can lead to bolt stretching, breaking or damage to the bolted parts. If you are concerned about corrosion apply a light coating of penetrant and wipe it dry. Penetrant has very little lubricity.
Clean the threads thoroughly. Ok to put some grease around the hub to prevent the wheel from sticking.
On the money!

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
This is another case of if you think you'll ever have to do it, the first time would best be in your driveway on a pleasant afternoon, rather than 3 AM, on the road, in a storm, when your passenger has to pee real bad.

From the net...
Bruce, Thanks for posting that. I use the rule of thumb of -30%, then retorque after a few heat cycles. If dry no retorque is needed.

I still don't recommend lube on wheel studs. The lube leads to inconsistent torque on each stud and torquing to lower levels will require re-torque after a few drive cycles which most people will forget to do. Best to torque dry. Since we can not rotate our tires, make it a habit to pull the wheels, clean them and lube the hub every oil change otherwise you may not get the wheel off when you really need to.
Greg

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 11:02 PM
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I also read if you do lube threads 10W40 is the most consistent for progressive strain as you increase torque, whereas anti-seize is the worst causing disproportionate strain as the torque increases.

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasbaehr View Post
... Penetrant has very little lubricity...
You gotta hand it to Greg; only people who are really up on their tribology should use the word "lubricity" in a sentence!!
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
This is another case of if you think you'll ever have to do it, the first time would best be in your driveway on a pleasant afternoon, rather than 3 AM, on the road, in a storm, when your passenger has to pee real bad.

From the net...
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