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Battery Quick-Disconnect (easy project)

10K views 40 replies 22 participants last post by  hughesdm 
#1 ·
I added a quick disconnect switch to my underhood battery cable box because I had the battery die after a week at the airport long-term parking. Got back to the SSR following a late flight home and SSR wouldn't start. Nobody else around at midnight, so had to call the wife to drive to the airport (40 minutes) in order to jump the SSR. Next time at airport, I disconnected the battery at the underhood box, but it was a royal pain to get it done while a shuttle bus full of people waited on me to finish. Decided then that I need a quick-disconnect as I will be on work travel quite a bit this year with the SSR in long-term off-site parking. Pictures attached show what I did. Cost $16 (with tax).
 

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#5 ·
Yep, that's the problem with the darn indexing windows! I have a shutoff under the hood, but only use it during winter storage with the windows cracked.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I would have battery tested, I have had to leave mine connected, parked with no battery tender for almost a month and she started. I know this is not good on battery or alternator. But at least alarm will work.

I guess he could leave hood popped.
I installed my shut off directly on the battery so no worries. Yes, I have to lay on ground.
 

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#14 ·
Ha! I triple-dog-dare you to do it in 11 seconds, at night, without lights and without your tools handy, while trying to ensure everything inside is turned off and your luggage is transferred to the shuttle van, then put tools and everything away before checking all doors locked. I'm good ... but not 11 seconds good. Especially when the 15mm socket drops down into the black-hole that is the bottom of your tool box.
 
#8 ·
What holds the switch and cover into the box once everything is connected? if it is loose that bolt in the back is a hazard isn't it?
 
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#15 ·
The plastic hinge is broke, but the tabs that hold the cover onto the box are fine. I'm thinking a strip or two of gorilla tape on the hinge will be a small bit of additional security. The red boxes are available new, so maybe just swap out the whole thing for a new box and eliminate the existing connecting stud bolt.
 
#10 ·
Good idea I think I will get one and put on my 1935 Chevy I disconnect the battery every time I put it away 84 year old wiring :surprise: this would be much simpler and there is a spare hole on the fire wall so no drilling.
 
#23 ·
:smile2:

Smart decision. I had one of those battery on/off switches (like the one shown on Topspins picture) on my '39 Chevy streetrod.

Put mine on the right side frame rail just out a few inches from the firewall and along side of it, I added a set of auxiliary battery posts too. This way I could easily hook up a jumper from another battery if needed......My battery location was behind the right front wheel and no easy access to it at all. The "trick" here is to use one of those batteries that comes with both sets of terminals. The (old style) on top and the newer style on the sides. That allowed hooking up the whole deal.:wink2:
 
#24 ·
When my mom still had her 1996 Trans Am convertible, it had an aftermarket alarm system and she didn’t use it, but it still drained the battery in short order, seeing that what they do!! So I installed one of these https://www.autozone.com/ignition/kill-switch/battery-doctor-battery-disconnect-switch/558401_0_0
It has a keyless remote on it, yes they’re more expensive than what you guys have been doing, but she didn’t want to open the hood and fiddle around. It worked awesome, it also monitors and it you forget to set it, it will automatically disconnect at a certain voltage so you can still start the vehicle. So this would work great for an SSR as you can let it index the windows and shut it off, then turn it on and the windows will index again ..... :smile2:
 
#27 ·
This looks like a great solution; however, this item has relatively poor reviews on Amazon, only about 50% positive. Most complaints are poor quality construction and high failure rate. When I checked the manufacturer's (WirthCo) website, it says that this is "discontinued" ... hmmm, but still available on Amazon and Autozone.
 
#30 ·
With all this talk of battery voltage cut-off, there's something to keep in mind and it has happened to me before. There are instances when I cut the battery power and did lose my window indexing feature and had to re-program them! For that reason I really don't use my cut-off switch for theft protection. I only use it at home with the driver's window always cracked, so I can still get in to do the re-programming if the indexing is lost.
 
#33 ·
One other thing about battery shut off switches. They are rated for the amperage draw on them. And they are like anything else they make good ones and they make cheap ones. We are required to have them on race cars and I have seen more than one person have them fail at the worse possible time. So if buying one spend the extra and get a good one. Two suppliers I have used and never a problem are Moroso and Flaming River.
 
#37 ·
One of the things that has not been discussed is the loss of all ”learned” memory from the engine computer when you lose power to it. There are the 30 logged operational uses that fine-tune the fuel delivery system and some EPA tests that have to be performed. The EPA tests can be absolutely critical if you are going to take your SSR to the local vehicle testing facility to get it registered for use. There are five tests that the system uses to report to the state agencies that your emission system is in compliance. In Arizona, we have to pass at least 4 of the 5 tests to pass emissions. If you have had a fresh battery installed or have just re-connected the battery to your system, the emission system parameters will report that the system is “not ready” for testing….. This is the same “not ready” that comes with clearing all codes in the engine computer…..

Yes, I have some experience with this issue……. Don’t ask……..

Mike
 
#38 ·
OK, but what if I have to change the battery? The engine computer (and all the other computers) will probably reset. Are they "self learning" once I start using the car? If yes, for how long do I have to use/drive the car in order to get the computers updated with the necessary information?
 
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