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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings...
My clutch pedal is feeling spongy.
Is there a trick to bleeding the system?
Thanks
Brian aka BoxerCup
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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Someone wrote awhile back about a broken return spring. That may be the problem. It is up under the dash. Just a thought.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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More than likely, broken return spring. Lot of manual owners carry spare spring with them.

Have you changed clutch yet?? If not, you will.

Dicktator

GM used Camaro "Leisure" Clutch 300hp against SSR 400hp and 1200lbs heavier!

Replace with Corvette LS7, plug and play, rated at 600hp and you will be very happy.
 

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Greetings...
My clutch pedal is feeling spongy.
Is there a trick to bleeding the system?
Thanks
Brian aka BoxerCup
Have you looked at the clutch master cylinder, you may find it discolored....dark and with some "crude" in it. Many of us have used a turkey baster to suck out most of the fluid and then wipe out the reservoir as good as possible and then refill and repeat again. That may or may not help your spongy situation, but should be done anyway. A search on this forum should bring up posts relating to this process.

The "crude" seems to be a result of (clutch disc "dust") getting into the system.:rolleyes:
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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These guys are on target...... Two simple things to do.......

Check the return spring.
Service your clutch reservoir.

I highly recommend using “DOT4 or DOT4 plus” for the clutch. It is compatible with the DOT3 that is in there. You should be able to find it at NAPA. 4+ has a higher boiling point than 4, which is higher than 3. Do an initial turkey baster replacement and then repeat every time you change the engine oil.

My 2 cents,

Mike
 

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More than likely, broken return spring. Lot of manual owners carry spare spring with them.

Have you changed clutch yet?? If not, you will.

Dicktator

GM used Camaro "Leisure" Clutch 300hp against SSR 400hp and 1200lbs heavier!

Replace with Corvette LS7, plug and play, rated at 600hp and you will be very happy.
It's not a Camaro "leisure" clutch used in the SSR, but a clutch that is shared with the Cadillac CTS-V!
 

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Changing the fluid like suggested is a great idea. It isn't difficult just follow the steps listed above. My spring broke when I depressed the clutch. Its available from GM and takes 5 minutes to replace. Hardest part of that replacement is forcing my old tired fat butt up from working on the floor of a vehicle. Seriously both are easy.
 

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I don't see it being a broken return spring
8-10 years ago there was a thread where 6sp owners were intentionally sabotaging them (one side broke off) in order to "feel" the pedal.
An old story of mine - when Kate first arrived and I went to drive her into my garage I nearly put my foot through the floorboards.
I had read about clutch issues but sincerely thought my clutch was screwed before I even got to drive her.
Anyway, I really never got used to the soft clutch, trying to measure release points etc.
It was a good day when I heard "sprong" and I knew immediately my return spring failed - such a relief, being able to feel the clutch.
If one side of the spring snapped it would not feel sloppy or spongy. Rather, it would feel stronger.

All due respect to our Mentor Dictator, who has an automatic, I have a 6sp and have had this happen
Topspin has a 6sp, but unsure if he has played around with the spring
The downside is, with one side broken, it is a guessing game as to when the other side caves
Every time I go on a road trip I wonder what parts I should have bought and things to worry about
The return spring is one of them

I need to buy the replacement spring, but until then, I am much happier driving her as she is.
 

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'05 Aqua Blur 6-spd
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More than likely, broken return spring. Lot of manual owners carry spare spring with them.
...
Oh my, I never thought about broken clutch springs. Are they something that can be easily purchased at an auto parts store or Chevrolet dealer? :unsure:

Had to replace the clutch pedal position switch on our trip home to Maryland after purchasing the R in Florida. None in Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, finally found one in Rocky Mount. NC. I understand value of having "easy" parts readily available. :)
 

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Per the last 15 years of threads on this forum as well as the advice given on this thread, you should be using at a minimum Dot 4 fluid to prevent clutch problems. But, even then, you're STILL going to have problems with regular off-the-shelf Prestone Dot 4. Old school Dot 3 is going to surely give you problems as we've stated a zillion times here. It just gets too hot and breaks down.

Either get GM's Super Dot 4 at a MINIMUM...or, if you truly want to eliminate your clutch problems, flush as instructed in this thread fully and use Motul RBF600 Dot 4.

I pull a travel trailer up mountains in sweltering summer sun and have never had Motul fail on me. I used to always have clutch issues before finding the Motul. While it is a "regular" Dot 4 (as opposed to Super Dot 4 which is the same as Dot 5.1) I found through real world use (again pulling my trailer up mountains in the summer) that the Motul outperformed every other fluid I tried.

DO NOT USE WAGNER BRAND SUPER DOT 4/DOT 5.1. IT WILL BOIL. I found this out stranded in rush hour traffic in downtown St. Louis. Not fun.

Again, regular Prestone Dot 3 or Dot 4 in the yellow bottle will boil. Had that happen outside of Escalante, Utah...middle of nowhere.

If you're not going to flush the clutch as instructed you're not going to fix the problem. And, as long as you're going through all that trouble, you might as well use the right fluid for the job that won't boil and destroy itself. And, that fluid is Motul RBF600.
 

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I do not have any number. I looked at Rock Auto and did not see that item. The last one I purchased I purchased from our local small town Chevy dealer. That was three years ago.

Dave
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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GM ran the Hyd, clutch line within 1/2" of engine exhaust manifold, thus, brake oil "boils". No drain/flush coupler on brake tube.

When you install new clutch, be sure to install new Hyd. clutch line with coupler to drain/flush clutch oil.

Dicktator
 

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'05 Aqua Blur 6-spd
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#12555205

Wow. The exploded view diagram is a huge help. I had no idea what the spring looked like before. The next question is where the heck is it? And how do you get to it to replace it? I took a dozen pictures to find it and never did. It looks like one of those contortionists jobs. :rolleyes: o_O
 

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GM ran the Hyd, clutch line within 1/2" of engine exhaust manifold, thus, brake oil "boils". No drain/flush coupler on brake tube.

When you install new clutch, be sure to install new Hyd. clutch line with coupler to drain/flush clutch oil.

Dicktator
...also it is a good idea to use a few quality (not the 500 for a dollar at harbor freight) nylon zip-ties to pull the hydraulic clutch line as far away from the exhaust as possible. My hydraulic clutch line was actually touching (!) the exhaust from the factory.

Another great idea is to wrap this iine with heat shield wrap...the dealer actually did that the first time they replaced my clutch. BTW...the clutch replacement didn't help with the heat sticking issue. Art, our old resident rocket scientist, got with me back in the day and figured the heat to be the culprit. Once I found the Motul fluid, I never had any more clutch issues with the original style clutch or Lonnie's setup.

The right fluid, frequent flushings, and isolating that line from heat best as possible is the key.
 
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