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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have one that they don't need.
I was thinking of sending it out to get an estimate for making Carbon Fiber one.
That way, the measurements would be correct.
If you have a better idea, please let me know.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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Hmmmmm, I thought someone was already making one. I do remember seeing one posted awhile back, let me see if I can find it.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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Well, looks like the companies that did no longer do. Most likely due to lack of sales. Here is a link where it is discussed from 2007 with links to discussions and companies. Still, you might want to contact BMR and see if they will do another one for you.






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Premium Member
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Anyone have one that they don't need.
I was thinking of sending it out to get an estimate for making Carbon Fiber one.
That way, the measurements would be correct.
If you have a better idea, please let me know.
Dynotech Engineering has built Metal Matrix driveshafts for both the auto and stick SSRs in the past. Most likely they have the dimensions on file. 800 633 5559

My stick version has been in my ride for at least 12 yrs and still going strong!
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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Dynotech Engineering has built Metal Matrix driveshafts for both the auto and stick SSRs in the past. Most likely they have the dimensions on file. 800 633 5559

My stick version has been in my ride for at least 12 yrs and still going strong!
So I take it the the only real reason to get an aluminum MMC (metal matrix composite), really any other non stock shaft, over the stock aluminum is for the "tink"? Or is there another benefit. I did read where some vibrations were eliminated with some Rs but that could just be due to a poor factory balance that could be re-accomplished. The weight should be pretty much similar no? I see where some MMC shafts are .100 or so thick??? Yowsa, that is pretty darn thin! What is the OEM if you know?
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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9,698 Posts
The tink can be fixed by taking the drive shaft out and putting a good coating of grease in the splines in the end and re-installing it. Old school repair. The tink comes from back lash when stopping in one direction and then starting out in the other direction.
 

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The tink can be fixed by taking the drive shaft out and putting a good coating of grease in the splines in the end and re-installing it. Old school repair. The tink comes from back lash when stopping in one direction and then starting out in the other direction.
This is real common also in the Duramax trucks with the Allison Transmissions. They don't run fluid in the tail section where the drive shaft slides in and it has to have grease put in to keep the noise down.
 

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SSR Believer
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Read through the various posts about the "tink" just now and a while back but I have a basic question for the experts here: if I hear the "tink" once in a while but don't do anything about it, am I asking for trouble down the road?

When our R has been sitting for a week or two and I put it in reverse to back it out of the garage I hear the "tink", mostly when the top is down. However it seems like after that I don't hear it again until the next time it's been sitting for a while. Seems like once the lubrication has warmed up all is good? Haven't experienced any unusual vibrations.

I've replaced numerous U-joints over the years and am comfortable dropping a drive shaft (prop shaft as they're called now I guess), but I tend to stick with the "if it ain't broke" mantra. So I'm wondering if at 50K miles and putting on less than 5K/yr. of more-or-less normal driving with a few petal to the metal take offs for fun, is it worth worrying about?

TIA!

P.S. Apologies for hijacking your thread Richard. :cautious:
 

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SSR Believer
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Rich, replaced the U-Joints with Dana Spicer 1350 at 50K.
What a difference.
Nice! Found two different ones listed.


Front and rear the same? Is the "5-1350 1x" the better of the two (based on price)? Can't seem to find the correct application for our R on there.

Thanks!
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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Have been told the tink doesn't bother anything except you.
 

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Premium Member
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Nice! Found two different ones listed.


Front and rear the same? Is the "5-1350 1x" the better of the two (based on price)? Can't seem to find the correct application for our R on there.

Thanks!
The only difference is that the 5-1350-1 is greasable. The 5-1350 is sealed "for life". It seems to be a matter of personal preference as to which one is better. Most "old schoolers" prefer to be able to add a shot of grease as they see fit.
 

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SSR Believer
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The only difference is that the 5-1350-1 is greasable. The 5-1350 is sealed "for life". It seems to be a matter of personal preference as to which one is better. Most "old schoolers" prefer to be able to add a shot of grease as they see fit.
Perfect! I spent many of my younger years under vehicles, grease gun in hand looking for all of the Zerk fittings, pumping up the rubber boots nice and full. With today's lubricant technology - and honestly how far we drive it each year not to mention how long I'll probably live and/or own our R - the "sealed for life" type will probably be more than enough.

To confirm, our Rs use the same U-joint front and rear?

TIA!
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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Perfect! I spent many of my younger years under vehicles, grease gun in hand looking for all of the Zerk fittings, pumping up the rubber boots nice and full. With today's lubricant technology - and honestly how far we drive it each year not to mention how long I'll probably live and/or own our R - the "sealed for life" type will probably be more than enough.

To confirm, our Rs use the same U-joint front and rear?

TIA!
Short answer is yes, all use the same front to rear.
The 6-speed u-joints are physically much larger than the ones on the automatics. Not interchangeable.
 

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PST or Precision Shaft Technology is one of the leaders in Carbon Fiber Drive shafts it might be worth a call to them to see what they say. 888-575-7888 Some of the race cars use the carbon fiber shafts, More for a safety measure. If a carbon fiber shaft lets go they turn into dust rather then pole vaulting the car at 180 mph or taking out the transmission or rear end or driver.
 

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Ex SoCal Nut
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Purple Hawk had GM replace the OEM with a Steel one. It had a "double tink" going on and the District Rep just happened to be in the shop and heard it. No problems since 136K smiles since. Way Back, it was entertaining to hear all the tinks when a caravan fired up to leave for a cruise. Same with hearing Mike in Az's aux fans turn on after everyone parked after the run. My 2 cents on zerks.... seen a lot of failures caused at that point and not so much with a solid u-joint.
 
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