Chevy SSR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2005 SSR with Magnuson Supercharger @ 34,000 mi.

My perfect truck would not start today Nov 21.

I read all the post and installed a new ignition switch.

Truck starts and runs great.

Nov 25 Truck won't start.
Reinstalled the ignition switch thinking I was one tooth off.
Truck starts and runs great.

Nov 26 Truck wont' start.
Read more postings and disassembled the fuse box.
No corrosion or damage.
Reassembled and trucks starts and runs great.

Nov 27
Truck starts and runs great.

Nov 28
Truck won't start.

I have 13.4 volts at the three input terminals to the fuse box.
The battery is Interstate best and is 8 months old.
All fuses have been tested and are good.
I use my wife's vibrator on the relay boxes hoping to create a solution but no good.

Now what???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,864 Posts
Did you test fuses with voltmeter or red-light?

When it won't start does the engine crank over?

If it does crank:
Any way to check codes, perhaps when it does start go have it checked for codes.
 

·
Tech Support/Research
Joined
·
1,683 Posts
Won't Start

In addition to checking the various electrical grounds, check the simple things first: tightness of all power connections at the battery and its ground cable to the frame and body, at the fuse box and inside the red jumper box under the hood. Then check the tightness of the connections at the starter. Also strongly suggest performing a Cold Crank Amps test on the battery- voltage at the terminals alone does not indicate that the battery is good. As Autoprof recommends, checking fuses is also a good idea before tearing things apart. Any rust or corrosion at ground connections should be addressed as well.

Good luck and keep us informed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
230 Posts
And, while checking connections, don't forget the connections at the STARTER. I have been fooled several times with this connection. It must
be tight, so, pull the wire sideways to make sure there is no movement. LAZY ONE
 

·
Ex SoCal Nut
Joined
·
9,931 Posts
If the truck is in Escondido, contact Joe Delano, "Leftcoast32". You're practically neighbors...
 
  • Like
Reactions: CruDawg

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The battery is perfect. Nearly new and tested one week ago at the battery shop.

It is not the battery.

I have 13.4 volts at all fuse box connections.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,864 Posts
I have 13.4 volts at all fuse box connections.
I am not sure we are on the same page.
When you say fuse connections.
Are you placing the positive lead of your voltmeter at the top of each side of the fuses?
I don't think you are using that method because the start fuse would show 0 volts on both sides of the fuse unless ignition was in the crank position.

Might be a network problem, but I would test BOTH fuse boxes with a voltmeter. Place black lead on good ground and move red lead to both sides of each fuse. Some will be 0 on both sides. But make note of those and post here. If any have 12 volts on one side and 0 volts on the other the fuse is blown.
I don't mean to insult you if this is what you've done just trying to get a good understanding of the symptoms and tests that you have done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I am using a Fluke meter. Quality stuff.
I have power across every fuse in the fuse box.
Each fuse is tested by the voltmeter.
No defective fuses.
The area next to the firewall is weird. There are powered up fuses and fuses with no power. With the key out.
I mean 12.7 volts. all the time. even when the key is out of the ignition.
The dash has no power. no lights. nothing.
Ed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,864 Posts
IEd
We seem to have a communication problem. I am not here to insult your abilities or anybody else's, I am only trying help. In order to do that I/We need to get a COMPLETE picture of what is actually happening. I(we) cannot see everything you do, we only know what little you have told us.

I am using a Fluke meter. Quality stuff.
I have power across every fuse in the fuse box.
Each fuse is tested by the voltmeter.
There are powered up fuses and fuses with no power.
Ed
First off, I agree Fluke makes some high quality equipment. I never questioned the quality of your equipment -- I don't care if its expensive Fluke meter or an off brand meter. If it is capable of reading 13.4 volts with some accuracy it will function just fine. If somebody's inexpensive meter reads 13.1 volts and your fluke meter reads 13.4 volts it wouldn't change the diagnosis. I recommend to my first year students and I gave away (and will continue to give away this year) at the Maggie Valley Rally, an auto-ranging digital multi-meter that can be purchased on Amazon for just under $20.


I don't quite understand how you can have power across every fuse and then state that there are some fuses that have no power. Again did the "crank" fuse have power on both sides with only the key on? This fuse is provided power with the key in the crank position only. So I am at a loss. How did you have power across EVERY fuse.

Might be a network problem, but I would test BOTH fuse boxes with a voltmeter. Place black lead on good ground and move red lead to both sides of each fuse. Some will be 0 on both sides. But make note of those and post here. If any have 12 volts on one side and 0 volts on the other the fuse is blown.
I also asked if you tested the fuses at BOTH fuse boxes -- you did not mention if you tested the rear fuse box.

The area next to the firewall is weird. There are powered up fuses and fuses with no power. With the key out.
I mean 12.7 volts. all the time. even when the key is out of the ignition.
Ed
Some fuses are connected directly to the power source (battery) and some fuses will not have voltage at either side until the circuit is turned on.

To help explain this -- A 12 volt battery will have voltage (potential to do work) sitting on the work bench because you have connected to it. But no work is getting done (no current is flowing) until the circuit is turned on or you connect a load to it.
So if there is not switch between the fuse and the battery you will read voltage with the key out -- it does not mean current is flowing ( in other words -- that anything electrical is happening). There are other circuits that you must activate a switch before there is a connection to the battery. The crank fuse is connected to the ignition switch crank circuit and will not have voltage until the ignition switch is turned to the crank position. This is why some fuse have voltage and some don't don't. The key here is to determine if there is a fuse the should have voltage DOES NOT have voltage. The chart that I created and hopefully will get a chance to present at a "Tech Lesson" in Maggie Valley this year, illustrates what fuses should have power under what conditions. This is valuable input for finding an electrical malfunction.



[/QUOTE]If the dask is black and the fuse box has 13.4 volts, why would I check the starter connections?[/QUOTE]

I must be honest and tell you that I feel that this reply to a member that suggested you check starter connections was OUT OF LINE. Maybe my recent root canal has made me a little sensitive but I don't think so!

At the time the member posted it you had never said it would not crank!
You also never said anything about a dask(?)
This member, like all of the great members of this forum are only trying to help and any help given should be accepted and acknowledged as such.

BESIDES! He is absolutely correct -- if either terminal at the starter were loose the engine would not crank and most electrical accessories would work. AGAIN you had not mentioned the dask(?)

I will be glad to try and help further if you provide accurate information about what is actually happening -- realize I cannot see or hear your car or determine what you meant to say.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Arrrrgh!!!

I am a mechanic. A long time ago.

I have great voltage to the fuse box.

I drilled out the "sweged" plastic points and still cannot get the fuse panel to come apart.

I have no power coming out of the fuse box to the dash. (assumption).

The dash panel is black. No lights of any kind.

I guess I will send my fuse box to Ed in Florida. Maybe. Why can't I fix this?

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Ed , because it sounds like me , like you worked on cars that you could fix things. Today they have to many “buttons”. I spent all day fixing a turn signal switch for a ‘55 Lancia . But I fixed it. I feel your pain. My SSR did not start after fueling last week. It was the starter. $90 bucks and done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Skeet, but I can't seem to get across the point that I have no power anywhere after the fuse box.
I have no power to the ignition switch.
I have no power to the dash.
It won't light up, the dash is black, so it cannot crank.
I have power to the fuse box but nothing after.
Everyone wants me to check things that could be a problem if the fuse box was passing power through.
ED
 

·
ONE OWNER !!!!
2004 Smokin' Asphalt #11150
Joined
·
44,453 Posts
Pm Ed in FL he is good with fuse boxes !!!!! ( Go to the The Word Association Game and get your post count up so you can PM )
 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
Top