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Discussion Starter #1
Went for a cruise today in my '06 6speed.
With the speed control set (~70 mph) the SSR "stumbled", as if the accelerator released and quickly applied again. Puzzled??? But I figured that the speed control had a some kind of hiccup.
Further down the road, to decelerate and down shift, I reached for the clutch pedal and it was an inch or two lower than normal. It pumped right back up and worked normally afterward.(fluid level is good)
Later driving through town, (stopping/starting) I could hear a metallic rattling sound coming from, what I assumed, the transmission/clutch. So now I'm thinking clutch/throwout bearing? Hoping nothing internal. The sound cleared up at road speeds.
Drove her home and now I've noticed it will not go into reverse.???
:frown2:
Anyone have insight into my problem? Where should I start?
:ssr
Brian
 

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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I know there is a solenoid that keeps you from going into reverse while moving forward. Could something have happened to this set up?
:ssr
Brian
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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11,042 Posts
In the past some folks have had trouble with the return spring breaking. Clutch would still work but pedal would not return all the way properly up to the top. When that happened to them it would cancel the cruise control because the pedal would not come all the way up from the depressed position. I do not have a stick shift but I remember reading about the problems. Might want to search clutch return spring if no one chimes in here soon. Good luck.
 

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I have had to replace my helper spring twice. The first time is a pain in the butt...the second time is also. You should be able to stand on your head and see the spring or like me have it fall on the floor in two pieces.


Good luck.
JON
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just looked at the spring(s)... they seem fine.
Actually, the cruise control never failed to work. I suppose in reality, I pushed the clutch pedal 1-2" before I felt resistance...but it pumped right up.???
:ssr
Brian
 

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Super Moderator
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In the past some folks have had trouble with the return spring breaking. Clutch would still work but pedal would not return all the way properly up to the top. When that happened to them it would cancel the cruise control because the pedal would not come all the way up from the depressed position. I do not have a stick shift but I remember reading about the problems. Might want to search clutch return spring if no one chimes in here soon. Good luck.
One day while driving slowly (5 mph over local tracks) I heard a pop under the dash and immediately knew what it was - my clutch spring had broken.
Ever since I finally have a feel for the clutch - so much easier to drive.
However, I do worry about the other half going and keep reminding myself I need to buy a replacement to keep in the glove box.

I did not experience any difference in the clutch pedal level, just pleasantly "firmer".

To me, this isn't the problem but I have no alternative answer to the question, except by the description, it does sound internal
The spring tension would have nothing to do with not being able to get into reverse.
 

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reverse

I had a 2005 CTS-V that suffered the same issues going into reverse, and the majority of time going into first at a light. I ended up having to replace the clutch and dual mass flywheel with the upgraded assembly. The clutch just would not disengage all the way.
 

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RedlineRyder, chiefjon, Cash & Medina SSR :frown2: :frown2: :frown2:

15 to 12 year old "Gremlins" beginning to show up ... maybe time to trade her in for a new one !!! What ???? they don't make 'em anymore ??? ... you gotta' be kiddin' !!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: this is NOT a laughing matter Guys & Gals. 21 more years when I'm a 100, Guys & Gals will be line waiting to buy a nice low mileage "pre-owned" SSR and they will be like Margaret Mitchell said about the South in her famous book "The South has Gone With The Wind" And as you drive by in your SSR some young Guy or Gal will say there goes "old man Cash" in his SSR, boy are they rare, ain't made 'em in over 30 years !!! They're really sharp, Cash wants a Hundred Thousand for his ... and he he'll get it cause he's taken care of it. You just can't find 'em that nice !!! :smile2: :smile2: :smile2:
 

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2006 S/C Silver & 2006 Pac Blue 6spd
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As you know I don’t have an 6spd SSR. The SSR is my first non-manual. I do have a 6spd Z06, and if it was acting like yours, and this is what I would do. I’d start trying to eliminate things via symptoms and conditions. The pumping you mention sounds ominous. Assuming there aren’t any signs of hydraulic leaks...
A) Does it shift into reverse with lgnition off?
B) If you pump the clutch up prior to starting, again ominous, will it shift into reverse just after starting (keeping the clutch in all the time)?
C) If B works, shift into first and get the truck to move a bit, then stop and try and shift into reverse.

A) Would help rule out pure internal mechanical issues in the tranny. Long ago I had a snap ring break and the whole gear cluster would move in the transmission. FWIW: Full transmission repair. Tore it down 2x, once to replace the synchro rings. The second time after the situation wasn’t much better and I re-reviewed the manual and found the snap ring wasn’t there.
B & C) Might help identify hydraulic/clutch mechanical issue. If you can shift into reverse prior to starting and then go from neutral to reverse while the engine is running, my thinking is the clutch isn’t fully disengaging from the flywheel.

Reverse doesn’t have a synchro ring, as all the other gears do. The synchro ring will help the transmission go into first when there is a little clutch drag, but it won’t go into reverse.

You know me. If I had to separate the engine from the transmission, I’d be replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throw out, resurfacing or replacing flywheel and surveying the situation for any upgrades. My objective being “do it once right and be done”.

Good luck sir. I’m sure others will chime in with more specific suggestions.

- Robert
:silver:
 

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Resident Rocket Scientist
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11,997 Posts
You mention that the fluid level is good. Had the fluid ever been changed? Is it still a light yellow green color or some other color?
The SSR is tough on the fluid with the underwood heat and limited airflow around the clutch fluid lines.
I'd start with making sure I have good clean fluid in the system to eliminate that as an initial cause.
 

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You mention that the fluid level is good. Had the fluid ever been changed? Is it still a light yellow green color or some other color?
The SSR is tough on the fluid with the underwood heat and limited airflow around the clutch fluid lines.
I'd start with making sure I have good clean fluid in the system to eliminate that as an initial cause.
I thought about mentioning this, but wasn't sure what effect "old" fluid would have
Having used my turkey baster for the removal process, Thanksgiving has never been the same! HaHa!

**If changing the fluid, cover everything as brake fluid will destroy paint.

There is a thread about fluid change method - a lot of pedal pumping involved
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I thought about mentioning this, but wasn't sure what effect "old" fluid would have
Having used my turkey baster for the removal process, Thanksgiving has never been the same! HaHa!

**If changing the fluid, cover everything as brake fluid will destroy paint.

There is a thread about fluid change method - a lot of pedal pumping involved
In fact, I did change the fluid using the "turkey baster" method awhile back (~1.5 yrs).

Earlier, I tried pumping the clutch, as recommended by Robert, but no luck with reverse.

Later today, I will put it on the lift to see if their is any thing visable on the external.

I have been expecting the day where, changing/upgrading the clutch would be necessary, but I was expecting different symptoms... still hope that's the only problem.

Thanks to all for the input.
:ssr
Brian
 

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2004 Slingshot Yellow
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1,919 Posts
Brian sounds like a slave cylinder issue. If clutch pedal needs to be pumped to firm it up then I would suspect the slave cylinder going bad. If so it may not be fully releasing the clutch and that is why you can't get in reverse since rev. is unsynchronized.
Also, as mentioned above if you have never flushed and replaced the clutch fluid then you may have heavily contaminated fluid. Pop the cap and draw some fluid out. If it is dark or black then you need to draw as much out as you can and replace with fresh, pump it and drive it then repeat at least twice to get the majority of the old stuff out. If that don't remedy it then change the slave cylinder.
I had a similar issue with my 81 Corvette which was not a hydraulic clutch. After changing the clutch I discovered the clutch yoke arm was cracked and was flexing enough to prevent full engagement. Eventually it would have broke.
That's my .02
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
BTW, Robert... No shifting into reverse with ignition off either.?.
Definite noise from (I'm assuming) the throw out bearing as I moved it to the shop this morning.
I see no visible signs externally, but the clutch fluid is, once again, dark and should be changed.
The photo, I assume, is the anti reverse solenoid located just below the shift stick. Are these known to fail?

Believe I will get started ordering the LS7 clutch parts.
(Thanks Lonnie... and others, for that great info)
:ssr
Brian
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #16
Brian sounds like a slave cylinder issue. If clutch pedal needs to be pumped to firm it up then I would suspect the slave cylinder going bad. If so it may not be fully releasing the clutch and that is why you can't get in reverse since rev. is unsynchronized.
Also, as mentioned above if you have never flushed and replaced the clutch fluid then you may have heavily contaminated fluid. Pop the cap and draw some fluid out. If it is dark or black then you need to draw as much out as you can and replace with fresh, pump it and drive it then repeat at least twice to get the majority of the old stuff out. If that don't remedy it then change the slave cylinder.
I had a similar issue with my 81 Corvette which was not a hydraulic clutch. After changing the clutch I discovered the clutch yoke arm was cracked and was flexing enough to prevent full engagement. Eventually it would have broke.
That's my .02
Greg
Thanks,
Glad to hear others thinking it's a clutch issue. I've been expecting this.
Last time I talked with "Dictator" he asked if I had to change my clutch yet? After I said no, he said.... "you will". :|
:ssr
Brian
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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12,650 Posts
Thanks,
Glad to hear others thinking it's a clutch issue. I've been expecting this.
Last time I talked with "Dictator" he asked if I had to change my clutch yet? After I said no, he said.... "you will". :|
:ssr
Brian
It will be the best $$ you will spend on replacing clutch with Corvette LS7, rated at 600 hp.

NO more Camaro Leisure Clutch, rated at 300hp, you will have a real Clutch!

Camaro leisure clutch on an SSR weighing 1800lbs more than Camaro and rated for 300 hp against SSR 6.0 rated at 400 hp. What was GM thinking??

Thank Lonnie aka Mr. Sinister for this fix.

Dicktator

1. Dave aka 32 Revolver at Lonnie's replacing Camaro Lesiure Clutch with LS7
2. Burned OEM clutch. NOTE Date 2011, eight years ago.
3. NEW LS7 Corvette Clutch
4. Installing LS7 clutch which weighs 40lbs less than OEM leisure clutch.
5. 40lbs of OEM Leisure Clutch.
 

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Thanks,
Glad to hear others thinking it's a clutch issue. I've been expecting this.
Last time I talked with "Dictator" he asked if I had to change my clutch yet? After I said no, he said.... "you will". :|
:ssr
Brian
I just bought a 6 speedwith 58k hope I like a while before I have to do that lol
 

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Resident Rocket Scientist
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11,997 Posts
BTW, Robert... No shifting into reverse with ignition off either.?.
Definite noise from (I'm assuming) the throw out bearing as I moved it to the shop this morning.
I see no visible signs externally, but the clutch fluid is, once again, dark and should be changed.
The photo, I assume, is the anti reverse solenoid located just below the shift stick. Are these known to fail?

Believe I will get started ordering the LS7 clutch parts.
(Thanks Lonnie... and others, for that great info)
:ssr
Brian
I've got an extra one of those solenoids if you need it.
 

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Premium Member
2006 S/C Silver & 2006 Pac Blue 6spd
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BTW, Robert... No shifting into reverse with ignition off either.?.
Definite noise from (I'm assuming) the throw out bearing as I moved it to the shop this morning.
I see no visible signs externally, but the clutch fluid is, once again, dark and should be changed.
The photo, I assume, is the anti reverse solenoid located just below the shift stick. Are these known to fail?

Believe I will get started ordering the LS7 clutch parts.
(Thanks Lonnie... and others, for that great info)
:ssr
Brian
I don’t know the unpowered position of that solenoid. Sounds odd/suspect. I’d think it would allow you to shift into any gear with the ignition off, most modern cars anyway. Need another 6spd owner to chime in.

FWIW: If I had a 6spd, I’d be investigating the LS7 clutch as I’ve read a lot of good things here. That said, my LS7 doesn’t like to slide much or it chatters. Let it out and get rolling!

-Robert
:silver:
 
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