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Discussion Starter #1
We recently had all 3 actuators and the blend door replaced. Since I am not familiar with what is normal for these trucks, I have some questions. First, is the air conditioning "weak"? It takes about 10-15 minutes of constant driving to really cool the cab in 100+ degree heat. I am used to better cooling, but I also am used to bigger vents. Second, are the side vents noticeably weaker than the middle vents? Not getting much air out of them. Last, are we supposed to have floor air/heat? I feel nothing blowing from below. I have calibrated the controls per the Library, but did not see any change (not sure if they were previously calibrated). Curious to find out if these are malfunctions or just how it is. Thanks for reading.
 

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My SSR blows cold very quickly through all vents. I live in Houston and my wife typically points the passenger vents away from her, as it blows that cold. I never run the fan above 2, with the A/C recirc on. It sounds like the side vent tubes make not be completely connected to the ducts.

It is really rare that I run the lower ducts, so cannot comment.
 

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not sure, but mine takes some time to cool down. my side vent blow hard and my middle vents are weak. But I'm a newbie to SSR's.
 

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I'd say that's "normal". The AC in mine was never stellar and I took it back to the dealer just prior to the warranty expiring to insist on them doing something. It came back a bit better, but still not great.

But, none of my vehicles are all that impressive when the temps are in the high 90s or greater.

One thing I had found is that the plastic vent tubes behind the dash panel were not fully engaged with the vents. That and the 2 center tubes were leaking a lot of air from the main plenum. Long ago I had put tape on them to seal up those gaps, but a few weeks ago I had to go back inside and saw that the tape had been removed (assume dealer) but not put back.
 

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I agree with TXNSSR, your ducts may not be connected fully to the vents. My 04 cools down quick in 100 deg heat and I run the fan on 2 or 3 once it's cooled down to maintain. When running AC I only use the dash vents. It also helps to get the windows tinted if they aren't already.
The dash was removed to replace the actuators and its tricky to reinstall and get the ducts reconnected to the vents. Use a small flashlight and look in the vents. If you see the edge of a duct then it's not connected fully and much of your air is getting lost behind the dash.
You can take it back to the place you had the work done at to get it remedied but a word of warning, they have to use a pick through the vents to line up the ducts before seating the dash. It is extremely easy to break the fragile vent fins when doing this and replacements are very rare.
You may want to have a local fanatic that has pulled their dash and has some experience with this to help you correct the vents if that is the issue.
Greg
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, our windows are tinted and we just had the roof insulated. My concern with the floor air is whether or not we will have heat. Thanks to everybody for their input.
 

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It might be the compressor short cycling.

CJerry's Hack AC Repair

I drove my SSR for nearly 10 years with so so air conditioning. It turned out it has a bad thermistor that monitors the temperature of the AC evaporator core. It was out of calibration and causes compressor short cycling and wide variations in air temperature blowing from the vents.

(Edit 5-27-2017 At this time MikeInAZ at Simple Engineering has made a system that will make it an easy installation of a new Green thermistor. See post 49 below for photos of his system. Please contact him for availability. After you get your parts come by my shop and I will install it for you.)

(Also check out darbysan solution in post #46 of this thread for another effective solution to repair compressor short cycling.)

The symptoms are this. You are driving around town and the temperature is lets say 90 degrees. You pull up to a signal light or stop in traffic and then the air starts to blow warm, muggy air out the vent ports. Air volume is good. You can switch it to recirculate. You have had it evacuated, recharged and the fans are all working tip top. But it just does not cool like you want it to. So for years I did not really like to drive my SSR in hot weather.

Anyway with the help of MikeInAZ he suggested that it could be a thermistor problem. "The compressor is short cycling" and this is caused by the thermistor inside the air box. It is telling the compressor to stop running because it is to cold in here and if you don't stop pumping all this Freon in here the evaporator will ice up. You know how Mike is with all his technical talk, anyway I was armed with a spec of the knowledge he passed on and lots of hope as I was tired of this AC problem. Next I started digging around and went to the dealership and purchased the replacement part. So with the new part in hand I went to replace it and founontact Mike in AZ. He has a repair kit to replace the thermistor in the A/Box.


Jack
 
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9 years ago, my middle vents were weak on AC ... Problem: the 2 vent duct hoses not connected correctly or loose. Got 'em fixed or tightened up ... NO problem since and my wife agree's with TXNSSR's wife, too cold, so she redirects the vents on her side,

tennesseecozydog :ssr
 

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It sounds like the vent duct hoses coming loose or disconnected may be a common problem.
My passenger side vent, near the door, does not have any air flow.
 

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Recently had a new stereo installed. The tech allowed me to follow along with the install in their shop. With the dash and passenger side air bag removed, I noticed the flexible vent duct tubes were attached to the AC unit with small pieces of dried out duct tape. No evidence of mechanical fasteners. Wound up with no air flow and took the dash apart a second time to reconnect the tubes to the unit.

Boomer Bob :ssr
 

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CJerry's Hack AC Repair

I drove my SSR for nearly 10 years with so so air conditioning. It turned out it has a bad thermistor that monitors the temperature of the AC evaporator core. It was out of calibration and causes compressor short cycling and wide variations in air temperature blowing from the vents.


Jack
Your link to the older thread got messed up. Here it is:

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/jerry-s-hack-ac-repair-191738/

Short cycling is why I had taken mine in. I had an electronic thermometer that I used to record the vent temps and then took it in to prove to them how the temp was cycling up and down. Now, I do not know if they replaced that thermistor with the "green" one or not. Guess I'll have to dig in there and see.
 

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A/C Ducts Behind Upper Dash Face

After several years the small strips of foam around the edges of the vent ducting behind the dash become brittle and contribute to poor sealing. In addition, some ducts are loose at the plenum and do not stay in place when reinstalling the upper dash cover. I have added some small strips of Velcro to the ducts to increase the friction fit and preclude them from "drooping" and disengaging from either the plenum or the back of the air deflector ducts when pushing this main dash cover back into place.
 

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(Edit 5-27-2017 At this time MikeInAZ at Simple Engineering has made a system that will make it an easy installation of a new Green thermistor. See post 49 below for photos of his system. Please contact him for availability. After you get your parts come by my shop and I will install it for you.)

I live in AZ and would sweat every summer at full blast cold. Mikey’s trials on my truck fixed it. Check out his green thermistor install kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I can see the side ducts are disconnected. Not sure why there is no floor air, but it goes back to the shop on Monday to try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After several years the small strips of foam around the edges of the vent ducting behind the dash become brittle and contribute to poor sealing. In addition, some ducts are loose at the plenum and do not stay in place when reinstalling the upper dash cover. I have added some small strips of Velcro to the ducts to increase the friction fit and preclude them from "drooping" and disengaging from either the plenum or the back of the air deflector ducts when pushing this main dash cover back into place.
I will pass this idea along to the tech. Thanks!
 

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I can see the side ducts are disconnected. Not sure why there is no floor air, but it goes back to the shop on Monday to try again.
No air on floor when control is set on floor is either no communication between the control and the actuator or actuator not operating. In either case it sounds like their problem. Need to make sure the A/C control is recalibrated after they work on it for all functions to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is a followup to the quote...

We recently had all 3 actuators and the blend door replaced. Since I am not familiar with what is normal for these trucks, I have some questions. First, is the air conditioning "weak"? It takes about 10-15 minutes of constant driving to really cool the cab in 100+ degree heat. I am used to better cooling, but I also am used to bigger vents. Second, are the side vents noticeably weaker than the middle vents? Not getting much air out of them. Last, are we supposed to have floor air/heat? I feel nothing blowing from below. I have calibrated the controls per the Library, but did not see any change (not sure if they were previously calibrated). Curious to find out if these are malfunctions or just how it is. Thanks for reading.
Just got it back from the shop after I complained. It was obvious the side ducts were not connected. They had detached during re-installation of the dash. The shop found a diverter on the fan discharge that was not installed properly. What we have now is first class/factory perfect air conditioning and heat. If your truck does not freeze you out or blow your wig off, it is not fully functional. The shop here in Rockwall did a great job on ours and they are available to do yours. Ours was a bit of a learning curve, but the tech has experience and familiarity now in addition to notes and video of what is in that dash. They are actually a body repair shop, but I asked them to do the A/C work because I knew the dash was intense and I wanted it put back perfect. They succeeded. If anybody wants a referral, just let me know. As a side note, this work compliments the new insulated headliner. I can also happily recommend that shop for a first class installation. Well, as you may guess, we are ecstatic with the outcome of these items, but I am sharing this in case it will help anybody else. Thanks to everybody for their feedback to help this process along.
 
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