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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dash board ABS all idiot lights on. No acceleration after replacing ABS Module. About to replace modulator unit. Anyone seen this issue?
 

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The Susan Lucci of ROTM
2004, lowered, custom paint
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Let's give @Autoprof a nudge. He'd be the one to know. Response might be slow because today is the first day of the rally in Cincinnati.
 

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04 SSR
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Dash board ABS all idiot lights on. No acceleration after replacing ABS Module. About to replace modulator unit. Anyone seen this issue?
ABS all idiots lights on?

Please explain all idiot lights?
Check engine? Battery? etc.

The first thing I might do suggest is a master reset of all modules. Be sure windows are lowered as they may need relearned after this and will not index, thus making it difficult to open the door.

1. Remove both positive and negative battery cables from battery.
2. Touch the two cables together for about 10 minutes. This should reset all modules and clear any codes or bad information stored in those modules.
3. Reconnect battery cables, remember negative cable LAST. Negative cable can be difficult to get tight but don't overnighter.
4. Test start and drive.
5. Report exactly, if any, lights are on and attempt to retrieve codes from ALL modules. Especially ABS and ECM or PCM. (I say ECM or PCM because I am not sure of the year).

Still working, we can't head down to rally until after class this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All lights related to ABS are
on. RED break light, traction control, check engine etc. 2005 SSR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ABS all idiots lights on?

Please explain all idiot lights?
Check engine? Battery? etc.

The first thing I might do suggest is a master reset of all modules. Be sure windows are lowered as they may need relearned after this and will not index, thus making it difficult to open the door.

1. Remove both positive and negative battery cables from battery.
2. Touch the two cables together for about 10 minutes. This should reset all modules and clear any codes or bad information stored in those modules.
3. Reconnect battery cables, remember negative cable LAST. Negative cable can be difficult to get tight but don't overnighter.
4. Test start and drive.
5. Report exactly, if any, lights are on and attempt to retrieve codes from ALL modules. Especially ABS and ECM or PCM. (I say ECM or PCM because I am not sure of the year).

Still working, we can't head down to rally until after class this evening.
Are these steps part of the master reset process?
I am asking before I take the truck to my mechanic to install the new modulator unit.
Thanks in advance...
 

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SSR Believer
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All lights related to ABS are
on. RED break light, traction control, check engine etc. 2005 SSR.
Jimmy, Mark (@Autoprof) will need to know exactly which warning lights are illuminated, "...etc." isn't specific enough. (Not all of those are related to your ABS).

There's nothing you're experiencing that can't be sorted out by the folks here and it's best to be armed with some expert knowledge before you open your wallet. To avoid wasting money and time I would certainly wait for some additional advice before replacing anything.

Are these steps part of the master reset process?
I am asking before I take the truck to my mechanic to install the new modulator unit.
Thanks in advance...
Yes.

My $.02. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jimmy, Mark (@Autoprof) will need to know exactly which warning lights are illuminated, "...etc." isn't specific enough. (Not all of those are related to your ABS).

There's nothing you're experiencing that can't be sorted out by the folks here and it's best to be armed with some expert knowledge before you open your wallet. To avoid wasting money and time I would certainly wait for some additional advice before replacing anything.



Yes.

My $.02. ;)
thank you ...
 

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04 SSR
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All lights related to ABS are
on. RED break light, traction control, check engine etc. 2005 SSR.
You also stated"
"I am asking before I take the truck to my mechanic to install the new modulator unit."

What makes you think it needs a new modulator - because the lights are on?

I was suggesting that you try these steps BEFORE you take to a mechanic, and definitely before you buy any more parts. This is especially true for one as expensive as an ABS modulator. Not only is the part $$$ but bleeding the brakes afterwards can be tricky and not always successful without a scan tool that can help perform this process.

Personally if you brought your truck to my shop here is what I would do.
Sure there would be a minimum charge, but less expensive than guessing incorrectly.
1. Check ALL modules for codes and record them
2. Perform a master reset (Really only steps 1-3 in my previous post)
3. Recheck for codes Key on Engine off,
If none then test drive.
4. Recheck for codes
If none - put the top down and go out and have some fun.
5. If codes are found -- Follow code charts depending on which codes are set to determine the cause. Hell, it maybe just a fuse for the ABS module that was blown when installing it. This should produce a U type code because the ABS module would not be communicating.

If you can do steps 1-3 and it test drive ok with no lights - then I would skip going to a mechanic until you had lights coming on or drivability issues. It may not work but its worth a shot. I have seen numerous computers get corrupt when even batteries are replaced and this sometimes solves the issues.

I would not start throwing more parts and money into it without some diagnostics
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You also stated"
"I am asking before I take the truck to my mechanic to install the new modulator unit."

What makes you think it needs a new modulator - because the lights are on?

I was suggesting that you try these steps BEFORE you take to a mechanic, and definitely before you buy any more parts. This is especially true for one as expensive as an ABS modulator. Not only is the part $$$ but bleeding the brakes afterwards can be tricky and not always successful without a scan tool that can help perform this process.

Personally if you brought your truck to my shop here is what I would do.
Sure there would be a minimum charge, but less expensive than guessing incorrectly.
1. Check ALL modules for codes and record them
2. Perform a master reset (Really only steps 1-3 in my previous post)
3. Recheck for codes Key on Engine off,
If none then test drive.
4. Recheck for codes
If none - put the top down and go out and have some fun.
5. If codes are found -- Follow code charts depending on which codes are set to determine the cause. Hell, it maybe just a fuse for the ABS module that was blown when installing it. This should produce a U type code because the ABS module would not be communicating.

If you can do steps 1-3 and it test drive ok with no lights - then I would skip going to a mechanic until you had lights coming on or drivability issues. It may not work but its worth a shot. I have seen numerous computers get corrupt when even batteries are replaced and this sometimes solves the issues.

I would not start throwing more parts and money into it without some diagnostics
got it...thank you
 

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Good info. (y)

Noticed you had it in first gear. Traction control is always disabled in first gear. Does the TC light stay on in drive or any other gear? If so, did you try turning traction control on and off (switch on the console)? I haven’t seen that light illuminated with the brake/ABS lights before.

Mark will be along shortly.
 

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Premium Member
'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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Good info. (y)

Noticed you had it in first gear. Traction control is always disabled in first gear. Does the TC light stay on in drive or any other gear? If so, did you try turning traction control on and off (switch on the console)? I haven’t seen that light illuminated with the brake/ABS lights before.

Mark will be along shortly.
Good catch Rich !!!

@JimmySSBN, Keep following Autoprof's advise. Meantime--Welcome from Forney Texas. Consider clicking on the Colored Letter/Picture, top far right corner, go down to "Account Settings", click, and fill in your information. Especially your LOCATION and the year of your SSR, like the rest of us. Then go the the left side and click on "Signature". Also put the year of your SSR in your "Signature", and anything else you want to show in your posts, and we can help you better if you have a problem. When you finish click the "SAVE" box.

Click here for the "How To Library" OneDrive

Also click on this link and go to Post #1 Help Us Help You---UPDATE

Then go to the "New Member Section" and introduce yourself. New Member Section

Nick & Kathy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good info. (y)

Noticed you had it in first gear. Traction control is always disabled in first gear. Does the TC light stay on in drive or any other gear? If so, did you try turning traction control on and off (switch on the console)? I haven’t seen that light illuminated with the brake/ABS lights before.

Mark will be along shortly.
Yes ...it does not turn off from the console switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes ...it does not turn off from the console switch.
I believe there may be some electrical issue too.
Trying to open canopy top while parked it says "reduce speed".
AT this point I'll try most anything this expert group can recommend.
Thanks yall....
 

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Yes ...it does not turn off from the console switch.
To clarify, you’re saying the TC light is illuminated in every gear as well as neutral and park and the TC console switch has no effect?

I believe there may be some electrical issue too.
Trying to open canopy top while parked it says "reduce speed".
AT this point I'll try most anything this expert group can recommend.
Thanks yall....
So it does sound like there’s more going on and although it’s possible, it may not be a defective ABS module after all.

Did you get a chance to perform the reset? Remove the positive and negative battery cables from the battery and clamp them together per Mark’s advice above? (Make solid connections and avoid sparks when you reattach the cables.) I’d also check the two negative cable grounds (one at the body, one at the frame) while you’re under there. Be sure they are clean and tight. That’s where I would start.

I believe Mark is headed for the rally now (along with many other Fanatics) so it might be tomorrow before he can respond, but hang in there.

Others including @Dicktator may have some input in the meantime.

Bottom line, I wouldn’t start throwing parts or money at it just yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes I performed the reset as described in steps 1-4. Reconnected the battery as required with negative being last. TC cannot be turned on manually regardless of the gear I'm in.
 

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Hi Jimmy,

Looks like the experts are still busy at the rally. Here are a couple of more things to try in the meantime.

Per Dickator's advice to me for something similar a while back:

I would remove ABS connectors, (three) spray with contact cleaner, apply a little silicone "dielectric" grease around connector and replace.

I would also remove "ground" for ABS, clean and replace. Behind front fender, drivers side on frame.

Dicktator
Also, the reset may have covered it, but you could try specifically resetting the ECM (engine control module). On your '05 you'll need to pull fuse #27 in the under-hood fuse box. Leave it out for about 30 minutes to fully discharge the capacitor to erase the memory. Then put it back in and try driving it to see if the issues reappear.

Have you had anyone use an OBD II reader to view any error codes? If you don't have one, most any auto parts store will do it for free. There could be several codes based on the warning lights. Carefully copy down each code and post them here when you have time. (I would have them read after you've cleared the ECM memory assuming you get the warning lights again.)

Hand Automotive tire Finger Thumb Bumper Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Grey Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern Number
 

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Dash board ABS all idiot lights on. No acceleration after replacing ABS Module. About to replace modulator unit. Anyone seen this issue?
Check the ground that is located on the inside of the frame right under the driver's side seat. Check if it's rusty or corroded. This can make the ABS throw errors and make gauges erratic.
I had this problem due to the underbody being splashed with salt/brackish water during king tides in Fort Lauderdale which accelerated corrosion and transfers electrolysis also. I thought my ABS was faulty. It was just the ground on the frame. Clean that before you look for more parts. *the ABS unit also crosses over into other GM vehicles.
 
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