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Stopped for gas tonight and got the ABS light and Service Brake System warning when I started the engine. The windows worked fine. When I got home I put the top up. It worked fine as well. I shut the engine off and restarted it and the ABS light stayed off. Any suggestions on what I am in for and what I should do when the light comes on next time?
 

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It will get worse with the It is covered in Dicktators library on how to remove it. There are several people who can repair it for you on here. My understanding is it it the solder connections and close proximity to the hot catalytic convertor causes the problem. Re-soldering it fixes it
 

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Is there a link to Dicktators tutorial on removal? I have a tough time navigating. Also, who are the fanatics that are doing the solder repair these days?
 

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I believe Dragon2u is doing solder work but you should send him a PM (Conversation) to verify.
 

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Roboy if you look in the middle of the upper section of the Technical Discussion it has
Sticky SSR How-To Library
Click on this and there is a ton of information there including how to remove the ABS module.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Mike aka Dragon2U and Dicktator, that's me, do solder repair on EBCM (Electric Brake Control Module).

03/04 ABS/EBCM is different from 05/06, so be sure to Mark your EBCM with year.

99% of the ABS failure is from OEM solder, why? They used "low" temp solder and placed ABS 3 inches from 1800degree catallactic converter. In town driving will usually cause failure sooner. To much concentrated "Heat".

Suggest Mike Moro aka https://shop.simple-engineering.com/ ABS HEAT SHEILD. I have one on my SSR.

I have Heat Shields in stock also.

Dicktator

You can DRIVE your SSR with the ABS light on! Won't hurt a thing!
My '38 Ford didn't have ABS.
 

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Just me, but----on Kathy's 04, we just ignore it !!! Sometimes we'll turn the key off and restart it, other times just keep on trucking.

Nick
 

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Stopped for gas tonight and got the ABS light and Service Brake System warning when I started the engine. The windows worked fine. When I got home I put the top up. It worked fine as well. I shut the engine off and restarted it and the ABS light stayed off. Any suggestions on what I am in for and what I should do when the light comes on next time?
Been there, my mechanic says when light is on ABS is not working and it's like having old time braking, the light just annoying. The unit in the area of master cylinder on most cars sticks, that what makes light go on. If you shut off truck and restart, sometimes a few try's it will go out. I have even found next morning it fixes itself for a while, weeks and months. A new unit goes for about $650 or so and a rebuilt is appx $350 with core exchange and rebuild kits are a lot less. For my money I'd go with a rebuilt. Shop it around, prices vary. Hopes this info helps.
 

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Stopped for gas tonight and got the ABS light and Service Brake System warning when I started the engine. The windows worked fine. When I got home I put the top up. It worked fine as well. I shut the engine off and restarted it and the ABS light stayed off. Any suggestions on what I am in for and what I should do when the light comes on next time?
How current is this post? It is a easy fix if you catch it before the ABS module melts down. I have replaced 3. since buying my SSR in 2010 The heat shield does work some. But the heat rises from Catalytic converter goes into Heat soak increasing & bounces off the heat stick on aluminum floor under drivers seat right back to ABS that is under the factory heat shield. Plus if you have Hot Rod your SSR the Cats will run hotter. I bought a 24 by 24 inches heat shied from auto parts store. It sticks on. Start by crawling under drivers side frame look up. See the brake lines? That is ABS.Start at top & wrap around ABS & ending with the end to wrap transmission selector. You can buy a Heat shield from Simple Engineering. It only protects on side. NOT the top where the solder is melting. Just a little help
 

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How current is this post? It is a easy fix if you catch it before the ABS module melts down. I have replaced 3. since buying my SSR in 2010 The heat shield does work some. But the heat rises from Catalytic converter goes into Heat soak increasing & bounces off the heat stick on aluminum floor under drivers seat right back to ABS that is under the factory heat shield. Plus if you have Hot Rod your SSR the Cats will run hotter. I bought a 24 by 24 inches heat shied from auto parts store. It sticks on. Start by crawling under drivers side frame look up. See the brake lines? That is ABS.Start at top & wrap around ABS & ending with the end to wrap transmission selector. You can buy a Heat shield from Simple Engineering. It only protects on side. NOT the top where the solder is melting. Just a little help
Were your repairs made with high heat solder?...
 

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Nope. Installed new unit & placed the old one in a box I have that is full of failed parts on my SSR. Has 159,000 miles.
Unfortunately. The New GM units have the wrong solder so you just replaced the problem with the same problem. It needs to be correctly repaired.
Greg
 

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Unfortunately. The New GM units have the wrong solder so you just replaced the problem with the same problem. It needs to be correctly repaired.
Greg
Had ABS light come on in my 2005.Also T/C light, service brakes soon Gear shift indicator said I was in low gear.Replaced ignition switch.Removed ECBM module and sent to Dicktator for repair. Still same problem.
Local chevy dealer found TCM to be the cause. All problems solved.
 

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Had ABS light come on in my 2005.Also T/C light, service brakes soon Gear shift indicator said I was in low gear.Replaced ignition switch.Removed ECBM module and sent to Dicktator for repair. Still same problem.
Local chevy dealer found TCM to be the cause. All problems solved.
This is why you should have ABS module checked for codes prior to just sending it off for repairs. While most times that is the problem there are other things that can cause symptoms.

Your point was made, however you have an 05, the original poster has an 03 and therefore doesn't have a TCM.
 

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Ah, the TCM is on transmission on 03/04 SSR. 05/06 TCM is mounted next to ECM near radiator.

Here is a case of Multiplex Class2 wiring. ALL modules talk to each other. One has problem can interfere with signal to another module.

That is why I always say "Take Care" when adding/changing wiring on SSR, like Radio, backup cameras etc.

Not like the old days, twist wire together. More than on signal in each wire and ground completes the circuit.

Dicktator
Picture. ECM/TCM same mounting, engine compartment on 05/06.
 

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Ah, the TCM is on transmission on 03/04 SSR. 05/06 TCM is mounted next to ECM near radiator.

Here is a case of Multiplex Class2 wiring. ALL modules talk to each other. One has problem can interfere with signal to another module.

That is why I always say "Take Care" when adding/changing wiring on SSR, like Radio, backup cameras etc.

Not like the old days, twist wire together. More than on signal in each wire and ground completes the circuit.

Dicktator
Picture. ECM/TCM same mounting, engine compartment on 05/06.
Actually the 03 and 04 does not have a TCM anywhere, they use a PCM - powertrain control module to control the engine and transmission electronic functions.
The 05 and 06 use an ECM engine control module for the engine electronic functions and a TCM if automatic for the electronic transmission controls. Combined they do the job of powertrain controls. This is basically why the engine control computer is called a PCM on 03-04 and an ECM on 05 and 06.
 

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YOUR RIGHT,

The switch I changed, thinking it was TCM, is PARK/NEUTRAL BACK UP LAMP SWITCH.

The PCM, Power Control Module has TCM software.

D2257C or GM 24221125 Park/Neutral Back up lamp switch.

Thanks!

Dicktator
 
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