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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When I purchased the Hurst/Core shifter, Chris at Core said he had nothing available that would adapt the factory knob to the Hurst shifter. I really like the factory knob, especially the reverse “R” No other knob can supply that visual.

Picture 1 - I purchased a 3/8 x 16 coupler, designed to link two sections of 3/8 x 16 ready rod (threaded rod) from the local nut and bolt shop.

Picture 2 - The coupler is set on the stock knob. It is 1 ¾” long, about ¼ inch shorter than the inside bore of the stock knob, which is perfect, and marginally larger diameter than the knob without the nylon sleeve. I only have to grind away enough of the hex shape for the coupler to slip into the knob.

I decided against the available smaller diameter light duty coupler, which would have been needed to keep the nylon sleeve. The sleeve’s only purpose seems to be to lock the leather boot against the knob, and I doubt I’d want to hide the Hurst name after all that is involved in the installation.

Picture 3 - I used a die grinder to ream out part of the inside bore of the coupler. I wanted to shorten the throw as much as possible, and that meant eliminating some of the thread, and increasing the inside diameter so the coupler could drop further down the tapered shifter shaft. A lathe and proper cutters would do a much nicer job than the grinder.

Picture 4 - When I started, the coupler bottomed out as soon as I ran out of thread. The fourth mark on the shifter is where the coupler stops now. That gets the top of the coupler even with the top of the shaft. I used my small stone grinder to eliminate the hex shape of the coupler. A bit of trial and error, and I was able to get the knob all the way down the coupler. This is another project that would be much cleaner if done on a lathe, but all of it is out of sight. Looking pretty is not essential, but if I was doing this again, I might pay the cost of having a pro modify the coupler.

Picture 5 - A quick test fit with the set screw tightened confirmed the knob is on nice and tight. Setscrew is exposed because I haven't cut in the recess yet.

Once I get the shifter installed I will mount the coupler using some locktite blue, and once properly locked in, grind the recess for the set screw.

Eleven years of shifting has pretty much worn out the chrome plating on the knob, so it's off to the platers next. Truck isn’t moving till April, so unfortunately lots of time before I get the chance to try out the new shifter.
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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When I purchased the Hurst/Core shifter, Chris at Core said he had nothing available that would adapt the factory knob to the Hurst shifter. I really like the factory knob, especially the reverse “R” No other knob can supply that visual.

Picture 1 - I purchased a 3/8 x 16 coupler, designed to link two sections of 3/8 x 16 ready rod (threaded rod) from the local nut and bolt shop.
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HA! "ready rod"---in Texas we call it All Thread. :grin2:

Very nice job!!!

Nick
 

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Nice work Ray, and nice talking with you!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice work Ray, and nice talking with you!
Thanks, Ken

I appreciate your feedback and all the information you have provided us over the years. I think I'm going to be happy with the new setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
HA! "ready rod"---in Texas we call it All Thread. :grin2:

Very nice job!!!

Nick
All thread is a much better description of the product.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Anyone else thinking of this modification should be aware of a problem I ran into this afternoon.

Talked to the chrome shop, and confirmed how they wanted to hang the knob for the various processes. Decided to cut in the notch for the setscrew into the coupler so everything would be ready to go when I got the knob back. I screwed the coupler onto the shifter shaft as I had done several times, and cinched it up about 1/4 turn after it tightened on the threads, and bottomed out the set screw to mark the front area to be cut.

When I tried to remove the coupler to do the cut, I was able to turn it about 1/2 turn with great difficulty, then it seized completely. Even using my flex 3/8" ratchet handle and a deep socket, I could not turn it. Sprayed in some WD40, tried again later, and no luck. I didn't want to risk damaging the shifter pivot area, so decided the coupler is on for life. The only way to get everything back to normal would be to remove the console so I could remove the shift lever, get a new lever, build a new coupler and start over.

Just a warning that a zinc plated coupler on a chrome plated thread can gall and seize up. Make sure to use anti seize before tightening.

I had to cut in the set screw notch using a Dremel in the truck.

Good news is, I won't be needing to use any Locktite , and I know the notch is in the right spot.

I will now grind up a second coupler so I can get the knob to the chrome plater.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Finally got the SSR on the road today. First chance to try out the Hurst linkage since installing it. Shifts feel tighter, and so crisp. I really like the feel of it.

The only thing I find taking some adjusting to is the appearance of the shifter. Because the drivetrain is offset to the right, the shifter mounting point is to the right of the center console. The factory shifter is in two pieces, with the upper portion offset significantly to the left of the lower portion. The shifter rod is also bent to the left so that the shifter feels like it is centered in the console. Having the entire thing hidden in the boot helps with the illusion.

The Hurst shifter is directly above the shift point. With the boot not covering the shifter, it looks like the whole thing is way off to the right. Works great, looks a bit odd.

Photo was taken with the shifter in first gear. This is the "leftest" the shifter can be.

Second photo is of the newly chromed and painted stock knob. I like it better than changing to a plastic Hurst knob.
 

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Finally got the SSR on the road today. First chance to try out the Hurst linkage since installing it. Shifts feel tighter, and so crisp. I really like the feel of it.

The only thing I find taking some adjusting to is the appearance of the shifter. Because the drivetrain is offset to the right, the shifter mounting point is to the right of the center console. The factory shifter is in two pieces, with the upper portion offset significantly to the left of the lower portion. The shifter rod is also bent to the left so that the shifter feels like it is centered in the console. Having the entire thing hidden in the boot helps with the illusion.

The Hurst shifter is directly above the shift point. With the boot not covering the shifter, it looks like the whole thing is way off to the right. Works great, looks a bit odd.

Photo was taken with the shifter in first gear. This is the "leftest" the shifter can be.

Second photo is of the newly chromed and painted stock knob. I like it better than changing to a plastic Hurst knob.
:smile2:
Now that you went to all that trouble, I just might have something you'll need as I'm thinkin' your a (top down when ya can) kinda guy.

If so, during the summer months you may find that chrome ball gets extra HOT. I just happen to have one of those custom leather shifter knob covers that will solve that problem:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:smile2:
Now that you went to all that trouble, I just might have something you'll need as I'm thinkin' your a (top down when ya can) kinda guy.

If so, during the summer months you may find that chrome ball gets extra HOT. I just happen to have one of those custom leather shifter knob covers that will solve that problem:wink2:
I've never noticed the knob being hot, but now that I'll be looking for it, just might find that to be the case.:frown2:

I never did get a leather shifter knob cover with mine, so would be interested in the cost, just to have one even if I don't use it. Send me a PM with a price.
 

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I've never noticed the knob being hot, but now that I'll be looking for it, just might find that to be the case.:frown2:

I never did get a leather shifter knob cover with mine, so would be interested in the cost, just to have one even if I don't use it. Send me a PM with a price.
PM has been sent.:wink2:
 
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