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Premium Member
2006 aqua blur
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Did the wire fix in the fuse box and thought all went well. Now it won’t crank and engine light on. I’m not stuck somewhere so it’s not an emergency.
 

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Premium Member
04 SSR
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3,173 Posts
I posted a wiring diagram for starter circuit on this thread.


Start here at crank fuse.
I will post more information about testing at start relay if needed.

However more information could be helpful.

Auto or 6 speed?
Did this issue appear right after reinstalling the repaired fuse box?
Is there anything else that would normally work with key on engine off which doesn't work now?
Windows, locks, radio and do gauges sweep as key is turned on.

Check engine light on. Do other lights come on and go out, yet check engine stays on?
 

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Premium Member
2006 aqua blur
Joined
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I posted a wiring diagram for starter circuit on this thread.


Start here at crank fuse.
I will post more information about testing at start relay if needed.

However more information could be helpful.

Auto or 6 speed?
Did this issue appear right after reinstalling the repaired fuse box?
Is there anything else that would normally work with key on engine off which doesn't work now?
Windows, locks, radio and do gauges sweep as key is turned on.

Check engine light on. Do other lights come on and go out, yet check engine stays on?
Thank you for your help. Everything worked till I did the fuse box wire so it seems I’m the culprit. Windows work Top retraction works radio works brake pedal feels normal. Dash lights come on then they go off except engine light When I turn the key off the headlights stay on for a while. It’s an automatic The first time or two there was a sound that seemed like it was trying to start to crank now no sounds like that
 

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Premium Member
2006 aqua blur
Joined
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for your help. Everything worked till I did the fuse box wire so it seems I’m the culprit. Windows work Top retraction works radio works brake pedal feels normal. Dash lights come on then they go off except engine light When I turn the key off the headlights stay on for a while. It’s an automatic The first time or two there was a sound that seemed like it was trying to start to crank now no sounds like that
Those 3 fuses are good also
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,411 Posts
Hmmmmm, are you sure you put the wire back in the same spot during repair? I always use a marker on the 2 pins so I remember them. If you are off by one then you might have to open it back up.........
 

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SSR Believer
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1,812 Posts
Thank you for your help. Everything worked till I did the fuse box wire so it seems I’m the culprit. Windows work Top retraction works radio works brake pedal feels normal. Dash lights come on then they go off except engine light When I turn the key off the headlights stay on for a while. It’s an automatic The first time or two there was a sound that seemed like it was trying to start to crank now no sounds like that
You said "The first time or two there was a sound that seemed like it was trying to start to crank now no sounds like that". Although the lights come on, etc. is it possible that there's just not enough juice to get it to crank over? Dying battery? @Dicktator always says that it needs a minimum of 9 volts at the ignition switch or no-go.

You're in good hands here, but thought I'd throw that out there JIC.
 

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SSR Believer
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1,812 Posts
Hmmmmm, are you sure you put the wire back in the same spot during repair? I always use a marker on the 2 pins so I remember them. If you are off by one then you might have to open it back up.........
Mike, would trying a fuse box jumper help confirm or eliminate his repair?

 

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Premium Member
2006 aqua blur
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
You said "The first time or two there was a sound that seemed like it was trying to start to crank now no sounds like that". Although the lights come on, etc. is it possible that there's just not enough juice to get it to crank over? Dying battery? @Dicktator always says that it needs a minimum of 9 volts at the ignition switch or no-go.

You're in good hands here, but thought I'd throw that out there JIC.
I am confident the end result we will fix. I’ll double check wire tomorrow but I sure think I have it correct. I’m charging tonight. I dud not start it before I started the work. So that’s a question Sure appreciate you guys help
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,411 Posts
Mike, would trying a fuse box jumper help confirm or eliminate his repair?

Jumper not really needed for testing, but if you have an assistant and a voltmeter (or a trouble light) you could test fuses for proper 12V when someone turns the key to the start position. There are 2 super small openings in the fuse top. With fuse installed, place one of the voltmeter leads into one of the holes and the other to ground to test for voltage. If you have voltage one one side, then check the other side of the fuse as well. If you have nothing on either side it would be a bad wire internally or something happening before that circuit is bad. If you have it on one side and not the other it would be a blown fuse.

Fuses 36, 33, 28, 35, and 29 are the ones that fail when relay 42 looses voltage from the wire you replaced. If they are all dead then the internal replaced wire is suspect.



Other questions -

How did you secure the copper wire to the silver terminal? Maybe it popped off during reassembly? I use a very thin screwdriver blade with a light hammer and tap it into place snugly.

Are all relays in the proper orientation? It does matter how they are placed.

Are all fuses in proper position? Maybe missed one by one position?
 

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Premium Member
2006 aqua blur
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Jumper not really needed for testing, but if you have an assistant and a voltmeter (or a trouble light) you could test fuses for proper 12V when someone turns the key to the start position. There are 2 super small openings in the fuse top. With fuse installed, place one of the voltmeter leads into one of the holes and the other to ground to test for voltage. If you have voltage one one side, then check the other side of the fuse as well. If you have nothing on either side it would be a bad wire internally or something happening before that circuit is bad. If you have it on one side and not the other it would be a blown fuse.

Fuses 36, 33, 28, 35, and 29 are the ones that fail when relay 42 looses voltage from the wire you replaced. If they are all dead then the internal replaced wire is suspect.



Other questions -

How did you secure the copper wire to the silver terminal? Maybe it popped off during reassembly? I use a very thin screwdriver blade with a light hammer and tap it into place snugly.

Are all relays in the proper orientation? It does matter how they are placed.

Are all fuses in proper position? Maybe missed one by one position?
Thank you I will double check items today
 

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Premium Member
04 SSR
Joined
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3,173 Posts
Agree with @Dragon2U -- use test light or voltmeter to test fuses.
here is an explanation for testing at starter relay which I did for someone else that might help --- note other fuses of importance to get car cranking. NOTE if automatic then pin 85 is still from fuse #23 IGN E but it feeds thru the park, neutral switch on transmission
Thanks to @TXNSSR for the picture -- I added some to it

BE sure transmission is in park or neutral BEFORE testing at ANY starter relay on ANY car

You can jump power to crank fuse to bypass ignition switch BUT being a 6 speed someone would need to depress clutch in order for it to crank and because key has to be on - it should start.
If its an automatic and you do this car will start with key on and trans in P or N.

You will find a picture explaining the tests at the starter relay (which is #43 not 42) these voltage reading would be taken with relay installed --- lift up slightly to slide red lead of voltmeter under just enough to touch relay pins. Or slide hat pin (T shaped pin) or similar under and touch that with meter lead. - be sure not to touch more than one pin.

If you remove relay:
you can test pins 30 and 85 for 12 volts with black lead on ground -- note key must be on AND clutch depressed (or in P or N) for pin 85.
Then to test pin 86 place red in pin 85 and black lead at pin 86. You should get 12 volts with clutch depressed and key in crank


OOPs I left off fuse #39 -- green 40 amp one, farthest up on the right! (NOTE his fuses that are surrounded with white paint are all spares)


Starter relay test points.jpg
.
 

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Premium Member
2006 aqua blur
Joined
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Agree with @Dragon2U -- use test light or voltmeter to test fuses.
here is an explanation for testing at starter relay which I did for someone else that might help --- note other fuses of importance to get car cranking. NOTE if automatic then pin 85 is still from fuse #23 IGN E but it feeds thru the park, neutral switch on transmission
Thanks to @TXNSSR for the picture -- I added some to it

BE sure transmission is in park or neutral BEFORE testing at ANY starter relay on ANY car

You can jump power to crank fuse to bypass ignition switch BUT being a 6 speed someone would need to depress clutch in order for it to crank and because key has to be on - it should start.
If its an automatic and you do this car will start with key on and trans in P or N.

You will find a picture explaining the tests at the starter relay (which is #43 not 42) these voltage reading would be taken with relay installed --- lift up slightly to slide red lead of voltmeter under just enough to touch relay pins. Or slide hat pin (T shaped pin) or similar under and touch that with meter lead. - be sure not to touch more than one pin.

If you remove relay:
you can test pins 30 and 85 for 12 volts with black lead on ground -- note key must be on AND clutch depressed (or in P or N) for pin 85.
Then to test pin 86 place red in pin 85 and black lead at pin 86. You should get 12 volts with clutch depressed and key in crank


OOPs I left off fuse #39 -- green 40 amp one, farthest up on the right! (NOTE his fuses that are surrounded with white paint are all spares)


View attachment 590664 .
The battery light came on. I took it down they said it’s good and they are full charging. I double checked the new wire it looks good I checked fuse positions with my pic before removing. Starting to get anxious. I’ll go back and get the battery and try to check fuses. It’s an 06 automatic.
 

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Premium Member
04 SSR
Joined
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3,173 Posts
DO NOT stress - it can be repaired - you have a great group of guys here willing to provide assistance

maybe just turn the key on and test all fuses underhood using a test light or voltmeter.

NOTE with Key on all but 7 fuses should have power on both sides of the fuse
see diagram - see column marked condition - this is what must be occurring for fuse to have power.
4 are for headlights, 2 are for REAR taillights and #20 the crank fuse will only have power in crank position of the key.

If you find power on one side only - fuse is blown
If you find any other that the 7 listed that do not have power on either side - record those numbers and I will respond with some other tests later

05 underhood fuse box.jpg
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,411 Posts
YOWSA!!!!!!!! VERY nice tip from TXNSSR with the pic and the idea for spare fuses! And Autoprof for one heck of a nice edit to the fuse box image for testing the relays!!!!!! Great stuff (y)
 

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Premium Member
2006 aqua blur
Joined
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The battery light came on. I took it down they said it’s good and they are full charging. I double checked the new wire it looks good I checked fuse positions with my pic before removing. Starting to get anxious. I’ll go back and get the battery and try to check fuses. It’s an 06 automatic.
590669
 

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Premium Member
04 SSR
Joined
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3,173 Posts
Fuses 2-5 you need either high or low beams on to have power, fuse 10 and 15 lights need to be on for rear lights., fuse #20 need key in crank postion.
So these all make sense

I think you found a fault in my chart
fuses #29, 33 and 31 are fed from ignition switch A circuits. - not labeled correctly
fuses 19, 21, 23, 26, 31,and 32 are fed from from ignition switch circuit C -- labeled ign C on my chart -- BIG CLUE - I might think ignition switch but the other fuses provide even more information.

because it is two circuits on ignition switch, I looked a ignition switch diagram and all of these fuses are fed from the cartridge fuse #41 - see wiring diagram pic 1 ( I will bet windshield wipers don't work either) The cartridge fuses are the large fuses that are either 40 or 60 amp.
Look carefully at fuse #41 IGN B --- you could also try to switch this fuse with #40 for HVAC blower to see if it changes anything diagram #2
Because it is a covered cartridge fuse - you are not provided any test ports.
06 Ign switch start run, access run.gif
06 fuse box.jpg
 
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