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After fuse box preventive fix will not start

6K views 54 replies 10 participants last post by  Autoprof 
#1 ·
Did the wire fix in the fuse box and thought all went well. Now it won’t crank and engine light on. I’m not stuck somewhere so it’s not an emergency.
 
#2 ·
I posted a wiring diagram for starter circuit on this thread.


Start here at crank fuse.
I will post more information about testing at start relay if needed.

However more information could be helpful.

Auto or 6 speed?
Did this issue appear right after reinstalling the repaired fuse box?
Is there anything else that would normally work with key on engine off which doesn't work now?
Windows, locks, radio and do gauges sweep as key is turned on.

Check engine light on. Do other lights come on and go out, yet check engine stays on?
 
#3 ·
Thank you for your help. Everything worked till I did the fuse box wire so it seems I’m the culprit. Windows work Top retraction works radio works brake pedal feels normal. Dash lights come on then they go off except engine light When I turn the key off the headlights stay on for a while. It’s an automatic The first time or two there was a sound that seemed like it was trying to start to crank now no sounds like that
 
#7 ·
Mike, would trying a fuse box jumper help confirm or eliminate his repair?

 
#12 ·
Agree with @Dragon2U -- use test light or voltmeter to test fuses.
here is an explanation for testing at starter relay which I did for someone else that might help --- note other fuses of importance to get car cranking. NOTE if automatic then pin 85 is still from fuse #23 IGN E but it feeds thru the park, neutral switch on transmission
Thanks to @TXNSSR for the picture -- I added some to it

BE sure transmission is in park or neutral BEFORE testing at ANY starter relay on ANY car

You can jump power to crank fuse to bypass ignition switch BUT being a 6 speed someone would need to depress clutch in order for it to crank and because key has to be on - it should start.
If its an automatic and you do this car will start with key on and trans in P or N.

You will find a picture explaining the tests at the starter relay (which is #43 not 42) these voltage reading would be taken with relay installed --- lift up slightly to slide red lead of voltmeter under just enough to touch relay pins. Or slide hat pin (T shaped pin) or similar under and touch that with meter lead. - be sure not to touch more than one pin.

If you remove relay:
you can test pins 30 and 85 for 12 volts with black lead on ground -- note key must be on AND clutch depressed (or in P or N) for pin 85.
Then to test pin 86 place red in pin 85 and black lead at pin 86. You should get 12 volts with clutch depressed and key in crank


OOPs I left off fuse #39 -- green 40 amp one, farthest up on the right! (NOTE his fuses that are surrounded with white paint are all spares)


Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Audio equipment Computer hardware
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#13 ·
Agree with @Dragon2U -- use test light or voltmeter to test fuses.
here is an explanation for testing at starter relay which I did for someone else that might help --- note other fuses of importance to get car cranking. NOTE if automatic then pin 85 is still from fuse #23 IGN E but it feeds thru the park, neutral switch on transmission
Thanks to @TXNSSR for the picture -- I added some to it

BE sure transmission is in park or neutral BEFORE testing at ANY starter relay on ANY car

You can jump power to crank fuse to bypass ignition switch BUT being a 6 speed someone would need to depress clutch in order for it to crank and because key has to be on - it should start.
If its an automatic and you do this car will start with key on and trans in P or N.

You will find a picture explaining the tests at the starter relay (which is #43 not 42) these voltage reading would be taken with relay installed --- lift up slightly to slide red lead of voltmeter under just enough to touch relay pins. Or slide hat pin (T shaped pin) or similar under and touch that with meter lead. - be sure not to touch more than one pin.

If you remove relay:
you can test pins 30 and 85 for 12 volts with black lead on ground -- note key must be on AND clutch depressed (or in P or N) for pin 85.
Then to test pin 86 place red in pin 85 and black lead at pin 86. You should get 12 volts with clutch depressed and key in crank


OOPs I left off fuse #39 -- green 40 amp one, farthest up on the right! (NOTE his fuses that are surrounded with white paint are all spares)


View attachment 590664 .
The battery light came on. I took it down they said it’s good and they are full charging. I double checked the new wire it looks good I checked fuse positions with my pic before removing. Starting to get anxious. I’ll go back and get the battery and try to check fuses. It’s an 06 automatic.
 
#14 ·
DO NOT stress - it can be repaired - you have a great group of guys here willing to provide assistance

maybe just turn the key on and test all fuses underhood using a test light or voltmeter.

NOTE with Key on all but 7 fuses should have power on both sides of the fuse
see diagram - see column marked condition - this is what must be occurring for fuse to have power.
4 are for headlights, 2 are for REAR taillights and #20 the crank fuse will only have power in crank position of the key.

If you find power on one side only - fuse is blown
If you find any other that the 7 listed that do not have power on either side - record those numbers and I will respond with some other tests later

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#19 · (Edited)
Fuses 2-5 you need either high or low beams on to have power, fuse 10 and 15 lights need to be on for rear lights., fuse #20 need key in crank postion.
So these all make sense

I think you found a fault in my chart
fuses #29, 33 and 31 are fed from ignition switch A circuits. - not labeled correctly
fuses 19, 21, 23, 26, 31,and 32 are fed from from ignition switch circuit C -- labeled ign C on my chart -- BIG CLUE - I might think ignition switch but the other fuses provide even more information.

because it is two circuits on ignition switch, I looked a ignition switch diagram and all of these fuses are fed from the cartridge fuse #41 - see wiring diagram pic 1 ( I will bet windshield wipers don't work either) The cartridge fuses are the large fuses that are either 40 or 60 amp.
Look carefully at fuse #41 IGN B --- you could also try to switch this fuse with #40 for HVAC blower to see if it changes anything diagram #2
Because it is a covered cartridge fuse - you are not provided any test ports.
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#28 ·
I think you found a fault in my chart
fuses #29, 33 and 31 are fed from ignition switch A circuits. - not labeled correctly
f View attachment 590692
I checked my chart again today - the chart is correct!!!!!!
Fuses 29,31,33 shown in above diagram ARE IN THE REAR FUSE BOX!!!!!
So I rechecked the fuses he showed as dead against my chart. I changed the font to red for al fuses he listed as not having any power.
It made even more sense that fuse 41 was the culprit - now if he had checked rear fuse box ALSO he would have found these fuses dead as well
So when you look at the red type on the attached chart
fuses 2 and 4 requires high beam on,
fuses 3 and 5 require low beams on
fuse 10 and 15 require either stop lights or right or left turn signal
fuse 20 key has to be turned to crank (start)
fuse 25 -- I question if this fuse is even found on other 6 speed models - my wiring shows its only used on auto equipped
fuses 19, 21, 23, 26, 31 and 32 are all fed from fuse ignition switch circuit C which is fed from fuse #41
fuses 28, 29, 33, 35 and 36 are highlighted a different color on my chart because all of these will be "dead" when there is a fuse box broken wire issue, faulty relay #42 or other issue.
In this case it was "other issue" relay 42 is energized by the ECM in the ignition run or start position. The ECM determines if ignition is in run or start from fuse #31 - AND fuse #31 was not sending that signal to the ECM because t is on the list from the ignition circuit C fuses!

In conclusion - I WILL NOT be posting new charts because the the fault was not with the chart but rather with the person using it.
 

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#23 · (Edited)
Glad to hear, what did you find?

How long did it run? Might be somewhat flooded. I dont know for sure in this situation, but sometimes cycling key on and off may pulse some injectors. Therefore when it finally fired some cylinders may be flooded.

How about a recheck on fuses for s#### and giggles.

Do you have access to code reader?

If only the fuses i mentioned earlier that make sense still have no power.
Disconnect battery, get a good night sleep knowing its running and we will get you the rest of the way.
Then tomorrow reconect battery and retry. Fuel will have evaporated and trouble codes may have cleared overnight. Might still be slighty rough as plugs clean up. Shouldn't take too long.

EDIT while battery cable is off go ahead and remove both cables and then touch the cable ends together gor a few minutes. The Computers may be confused due to previous issues. This procedure wipes out anything stored in their RAM, random access memory. This is their "learned" operating conditions, and if it is incorrect it can cause all kinds of weird stuff and they have trouble figuring out whats right and whats wrong.

Best to let them start learning all over again with problem corrected.
 
#24 ·
Glad to hear, what did you find?

How long did it run? Might be somewhat flooded. I dont know for sure in this situation, but sometimes cycling key on and off may pulse some injectors. Therefore when it finally fired some cylinders may be flooded.

How about a recheck on fuses for s#### and giggles.

Do you have access to code reader?

If only the fuses i mentioned earlier that make sense still have no power.
Disconnect battery, get a good night sleep knowing its running and we will get you the rest of the way.
Then tomorrow reconect battery and retry. Fuel will have evaporated and trouble codes may have cleared overnight. Might still be slighty rough as plugs clean up. Shouldn't take too long.
I think you are right it is maybe flooded. I did not run it too Long. Why disconnect battery ? For my knowledge
 
#35 · (Edited)
That sounds more reasonable.
I will bet it runs bad !!- seems like misfire on 4 out of 8 cylinders. This will also cause the P0300
Cylinders 2,4,6,8 are all of the cylinders on the passenger side.

First check fuse #29 Inj B 20 amp fuse. Key in on position use your test light as you did prior.
This fuse is power to all four injectors and ignition coils see diagram

If power on both sides of fuse, unplug one of the injectors on that side of engine - and now with key on check for power on the pink wire of that injector.

If no power on either side of fuse problem maybe inside fuse box - I know injector A fuse has power or it wouldn't run. It appears from diagram they are fed off same bus bar.

If power on one side - fuse is blown - replace and retest - if it doesn't blow then start engine and see if it runs better.

Let me know how it turn out., I can provide further assistance if needed - might be tomorrow

EDIT - Also be sure fuse fits snug in fuse box -- if no power on either side or power on both sides of fuse but not at injector.
maybe push fuse towards one side while it running to see if it smooths out. (long edge of fuse towards or away from relays)

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#39 ·
YEA, YEA !!!!!!!!!!

Great job - you almost follow instructions well.

I say that with some kidding, because I believe in post #23 last night I mentioned

How about a recheck on fuses for s#### and giggles.

ITS ALL GOOD!!!!
I hope this increased your confidence in electrical repair
AND some of those following the thread, I hope you were able to learn something as well.

HOPEFULLY weather is good where you are, so that you can get out and enjoy your smooth running Blur, tonight or tomorrow.
I think I will go have a cold one 🖐 to celebrate. 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺

GREAT JOB @NMSSR !!!!!
 
#45 ·
I'm not trying to prolong this so no replys are needed. I just don't understand, that it ran fine, then all of this could happen by only replacing the wire?! I do understand coincidences but don't like them !!! Repeat---GREAT JOB.

Nick
 
#51 ·
I had this problem and thought it was the pass lock. Changed the pass lock. Turned out it was the key. I had to go to the dealer with a photo ID and the registration and they gave me the number code to get a new key made I made a couple of extras and put one in a safe place.
Hope this helps.
 
#52 ·
Hello friends. The ssr will not crank. After the fix a few days ago the only thing I did was buy a charger and had it charging. I looked on the site and did the headlight test. When I try to start the headlights go out meaning bad battery connection. I’ve checked and all seem good and retightened. The floor battery gauge shows 12 volts. When the key is on on position most fuses are on but I noticed the crank fuse is not on I think that’s 20. The fuse looks good neither side shows power it probably is not connected till the key is turned to start Anyway any thoughts?
 
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