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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Kathy's '04---Picture #1 Before, Picture #2 After, Picture #3 when was the last time you backed up to one of these??!!
He said that was as close as he could get to "0" Camber on the right, and doing so changed Caster as a result. He said Camber and toe affects tire wear more than Caster so he thinks its good. I may be crazy but it seems it takes less effort to steer, rolling and stopped!?! Oh, he said on the right side the weld holding the nut in the frame broke when he tightened the bolt. He said no big deal, just have to hold it with Channel Locks to tighten.?
How bout that Heater?! See flame in middle of bottom pipe. I haven't backed up to one of those in 50 years!!
 

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The reason it seems easier to steer is it does not have enough castor. The SSR needs about 4.5* castor. The specs I use are .5 neg camber, 4.5 castor and 0 to 1/32 toe. The reason I use .5 neg camber is it helps in the curves to go faster. You should be good with 0 to .5 neg camber, 4.5 castor and 0 to 1/32 toe.
Your alignment guy actually messed up the alignment worse then it was to start. all that was way out was toe. Camber on the right side was a little high, but still in the green. Now castor is way out. You need to have it redone to the proper specs.
 

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Have it aligned to the "proper specs," and you'll be sorry. I was.



:yellow:
Willie
If you use Dicktators specs or mine, which are close to Dicktators, you won't have tire wear. If you set it to factory specs, then you will have tire wear. And the proper specs are Dicktators or mine.
 

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I had my caster up to over 5, too much, had to knock it back to 4.5.
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have always heard that Caster DID NOT have much effect on tire wear, more to do with Wheels returning to Straight ahead after turning. Camber and especially Toe settings are the reason FOR TIRE WEAR!!?? We talked about it and I told him to get it as CLOSE to Dictator's "0"'s as possible which Toe setting is! Plus it steers easier and tracks straight as an arrow! I guess we will see!!!

Nick
 

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Just a clarification. I misunderstood what was said. (danged interwebby.)When I said "proper specs," I meant GM factory specs. The pic is what factory specs did to mine. Woodstock is now set to Dicktator's specs and has been trouble free.

PS. As with Nick, my steering feels lighter and more responsive after alignment. YMMV.


:yellow:
Willie
 

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Just a clarification. I misunderstood what was said. (danged interwebby.)When I said "proper specs," I meant GM factory specs. The pic is what factory specs did to mine. Woodstock is now set to Dicktator's specs and has been trouble free.

PS. As with Nick, my steering feels lighter and more responsive after alignment. YMMV.


:yellow:
Willie
I had the same (ridiculously fast) wear prior to getting away from factory specs.
:ssr
Brian
 

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Ok, I am going in on Friday 5/11/18 for new front tires and need an alignment to stop tire wear...

What is the exact specs for the alignment that is best to keep from tire wear??

are these the specs I need to give them

0 to .5 neg camber, 4.5 castor and 0 to 1/32 toe? Is it the same for both sides?

THANK YOU!!!
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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Discussion Starter #12
kathie, here is a post from Dicktator 4-05-12 post #3:

Alignment Specs.

Caster 4.25 +/- 0.5 Set to max and equal both sides

Cross Caster 0.0 +/- 0.3

Camber -0.5 +/- 0.5 (CHANGE CAMBER TO ZERO (0)

Toe +0.1 +/- 0.2 (CHANGE TOE TO ZERO (0)

Change Camber to 0 and change Toe to 0 to eliminate inner scuffing

This is what most of us use.

Nick
 

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BLU SSR
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kathie, here is a post from Dicktator 4-05-12 post #3:

Alignment Specs.

Caster 4.25 +/- 0.5 Set to max and equal both sides

Cross Caster 0.0 +/- 0.3

Camber -0.5 +/- 0.5 (CHANGE CAMBER TO ZERO (0)

Toe +0.1 +/- 0.2 (CHANGE TOE TO ZERO (0)

Change Camber to 0 and change Toe to 0 to eliminate inner scuffing

This is what most of us use.

Nick

Kathie, Just a little advice , if the shop you choose can't get to these specs. in a couple hours GO SOMEWHERE ELSE , if they really know what they are doing it will be no big deal to attain Dictator's specs . Check with a few independent mechanics and see who they recommend , they know who does good work locally , and since align. machines are expensive , they need a good source for their own use. Don't ask how I came up with this advice , just save yourself some time and do little homework BEFORE you let anyone work on your baby. :blur:

P.S. factory specs DID result in inner wear (scuffing) on my tires after 17000 miles. The info from the experts on this site is beyond reproach!
 

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You should have no problem getting your R to Dicktator's specs, AS LONG AS IT ISN'T LOWERED!!!!! Some seem to be able to still get a proper alignment, others can't.

I could not come close to those settings until I replaced the upper control arms with some DJM arms that had been engineered to work on a lowered SSR. No problem for the same shop that couldn't get it to align earlier to do it with the new arms.

They move the upper ball joint out significantly, and require some modifications to the inner fenderwell for clearance.
 
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I would like to add a little something
to this that has not been covered.

I found a couple of shops who not set
the alignment to the specs I gave them from
Dicktator. And that they would only allign
them to factory specs !!! Needless to say,
I have gone elsewhere to have it done.

But something that has not been covered...
If your doing an alignment.....

Have the tires rebalanced at the same time.

All vibrations that I had are now gone.....

Frank....
 

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She's getting new front tires so I should think they will balance them. Road force balance is preferable if they can do it.
 

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THANK YOU EVERYONE!!

I have asked them if they will align to the specs I give them and they said they could. I will ask for a final printout of specs as well.

I Checked on when the tires were manufactured and was told the 41st week of 2017.
 

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Alaignment specs

If your truck is not lowered, has higher mileage and cannot be set to O degree spec, you may have worn lower and upper control arm bushings. Have it checked, if needed replace with the bushings Mike sells.

Jack
 

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The Susan Lucci of ROTM
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If your truck is not lowered, has higher mileage and cannot be set to O degree spec, you may have worn lower and upper control arm bushings. Have it checked, if needed replace with the bushings Mike sells.

Jack
Do the alignment specs change if it's been lowered? (I'm 1" lower in front)
 

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Do the alignment specs change if it's been lowered? (I'm 1" lower in front)
Mine is lowered 1" front 1.6" rear on Eibach springs. Alignment specs remain the same, but it becomes more challenging to meet those specs with a lowered truck.

I couldn't get mine to align, so switched to DJM upper control arms from NorcalSS and had Mike's urethane bushings installed on the lower arms.

No problem at all with an alignment now, but there is a bit of extra work involved in cutting out part of the innder fenderwell gusset to allow the longer upper arms to move properly. Not doing the cutouts will result in some very loud banging noise and very limited travel.
 
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