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Discussion Starter #1
I have had my 2003 SSR all of one week. When I purchased it last week I did most of my driving in the bright sun light. A couple of days ago I took it out at night and noticed the red light showing a battery problem was lit. Had no problems starting the truck, putting top up and down and had no messages on the panel. Took it home an put it on a battery tender. Took it out this morning, light back on. Took it out at noon in the bright sun, can’t see the light on or any other lights. Is this a common SSR issue that the panel lights might be too bright and glow through the battery notice in the dark but in bright day light it’s not seen. So far I have gotten no notices on the information display. I come from a corvette which gave me too much info and I notice the SSR seems to give me too little. On the Corvette I could bring up a history of all faults. Anyway to do that on the SSR other than getting a OBD device?
Thanks
 

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ONE OWNER !!!!
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It could be a bad ignition switch sending a low voltage signal. Easy fix some others will chime in I'm sure.
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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First of all welcome. If the battery light is on could be a couple of things. Low or bad battery but if it is starting okay that probably is not it. Could also be alternator is not producing enough. A fully charged battery will let you operate the vehicle for about an hour before going completely dead so on short trips it would appear okay. Go to a store like O'Reilly's, Auto Zone etc. and they will come outside and check it out and check your codes for free. Then you will know exactly what to buy. SSR's need a tremendous amount of volts and amps to run all the computers and equipment. They do this for free.

Your question about light bleed through on the dash panel., mine does not do that.
 

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Welcome from Houston, Texas.

I agree with @Auggie Doggie about going to an auto store and seeing what codes show up, etc.

I’d also suggest checking the grounds. This is a very common suggestion and a source of issues. There are several ground points and bad connections can be very troublesome.

Here is the link to Dictator’s One Drive:
https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look for a document named: Electric Ground Locations

Best of luck. Keep us up to date on your progress.

-Robert
:silver:

P.S. I’d start with the battery ground to the frame, behind the right rear wheel, this one can get corroded pretty badly and apparently glow when in really bad shape. I’d then check the engine ground, right by the crank pulley. Then continue on to the rest.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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A dim battery light on the dash is an indication of a poor charging circuit. Most likely the alternator has a poor output and not charging the battery well enough during operation. The battery has to work harder to keep a charge and will wear out a little quicker the more you drive. You do not state that there are starting issues so the battery should be fine.

I agree with taking to an Autozone or Advance or whatever auto store near you that has a free battery check. There will not be any codes associated with this problem so no need to pull any unless you would like to clear all the history.

So, it could be an alternator or belt slipping, most likely not a battery, but having the charging system checked should help pinpoint the problem. If the system checks out, then you might want to check grounds and replace the ignition switch.

Good luck and congratulations on the new ride!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone for your comments. I just got back from another ride to visit grandkids. I notice this battery light is red vs all the other lights at startup are yellow. It was visible at the start of the ride in the shade but was not on or visible on my return. Will take it to a friends latter this week to do a check on the complete electrical system.
Note this is a 12300 original mileage SSR.
Thanks
Ollie
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am back again with more questions on this battery light. First it glows red not yellow like the other warning lights. It glows all the time; car running and not running. Keys in or out of the ignition. It is a dim glow. It is not observable in direct sunlight but very observable in the dark. It also glows with a trickle charger connected and not connected. It just seems to glow all the time. I have not had a chance to run the codes or take the battery to have it checked. It just seems off that the color is red not yellow and that its always on even when the car is not.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
Ollie
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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The color from the indicators in the dash are due to the color of the plastic overlay above the lights. Green for turn signals, some indicators yellow, some white, and some red. The alternator, or battery light, will always be red when lit.

Seems very odd that it would light up red with key off. Does it go away when you take off the battery cable in the engine bay, the red box? Are you possibly looking too hard at it and think it is lit dimly? Or maybe sunlight hitting it?

If it goes away with no key when the battery cable is off and comes on again when you reconnect the battery I think you might have an issue with your ignition switch. Either with the electronic portion or the mechanical portion. There are many many discussions and how to procedures on replacing the electronic portion of the ignition switch.

Switch, make sure wherever you purchase from that it is a AC Delco D1426Dwith the gray top as pictured in link after you click it below.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Its definitely lit but dimly in my garage with all the lights off you can see the red battery symbol standing behind the vehicle and looking through the back window. Can't see anything else except that. Have not tried disconnecting the battery. Will do that when I get home from work. Will investigate the threads on the ignition switch. Nothing else seem to be on.
Thanks
Ollie
 

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I am back again with more questions on this battery light. . Keys in or out of the ignition. I have not had a chance to run the codes or take the battery to have it checked. It just seems off that the color is red not yellow and that its always on even when the car is not.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
Ollie
Ollie
Before you replace ignition switch -- trying wiggling switch with keys out (basically try moving more towards the off position - if it goes out - ignition switch
If no effect
Remove the plug with the small wires from the alternator -- if it goes out (both key off and key on) suspect bad diode in alternator - get it tested before spending the money - but be sure it is tested in the car with a place that could look for leaking (bad) diode.

I personally would not purchase anything until I do the following

Get codes extracted,(not with a simple code reader!) just because the check engine light is not on does not mean that there are not any codes stored. Be sure to check IPC for codes also - if scan tool does not display IPC as an option to check, it is not a fully compliant scan tool. A fully compliant scan tool can also display if the light is being commanded or if the problem is with the IPC.

I would also measure voltage at the alternator (black lead on alternator case and red lead on large alternator wire) I would then compare to readings taken at the battery with engine running and then with high beams on and high speed blower on with engine at about 1500 rpm.
If there is more than about 1 volt different between the readings at the alternator and the battery -- you have a wiring/connection problem
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Autoproof, thanks for your ideas. I disconnected the battery - light off, that made sense. Then did the jiggle the ignition switch with out the key in it, no change the light stayed on. Next step will be to try the alternator test you suggested. If that changes the light (on/off) I will next check all the codes and not make any fixes until I am sure of the problem. It may not be until next week that I get to run the codes.
Thanks for your help.
Ollie
 

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Autoproof, thanks for your ideas. I disconnected the battery - light off, that made sense. Then did the jiggle the ignition switch with out the key in it, no change the light stayed on. Next step will be to try the alternator test you suggested. If that changes the light (on/off) I will next check all the codes and not make any fixes until I am sure of the problem. It may not be until next week that I get to run the codes.
Thanks for your help.
Ollie
Great! Ollie all I asked you to disconnect was the plug on the back (side) of the alternator - no tools required, easy peazy. I did not say to disconnect the battery!

The old Delco CS alternator had a diode trio in them, This was used because they were self exciting and when this failed the alt light would remain on even with key out. I am not sure if it will cause the same because the IPC and the battery (Alternator) warning light are not controlled directly by the alternator any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well it’s none of the above. Ignition switch checked out good, alternator checked out good. Problem is in the console. It was determined that their is a very low current flowing through it for some unknown reason keeping the battery light partially lit. Going to have to remove the console and send it off to be rebuilt.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Because it does not run down the battery, I am keeping it on a trickle charger when not in use now and planning to do the work in November when I put the R away for the winter.
 

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Well it’s none of the above. Ignition switch checked out good, alternator checked out good. Problem is in the console. It was determined that their is a very low current flowing through it for some unknown reason keeping the battery light partially lit. Going to have to remove the console and send it off to be rebuilt.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Because it does not run down the battery, I am keeping it on a trickle charger when not in use now and planning to do the work in November when I put the R away for the winter.
:surprise:

Not quite sure of just what here is meant by the "console"........in the context of an electrical glitch. Could this still possibly be traced back to a "grounding" problem.???
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I guess I need to use the correct terms. The correct term is instrument panel. GM thinks that’s where the problem is. I can get this one rebuilt or purchase a new one for $800. Current plan is rebuilt because it comes with a lifetime warranty.
 
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