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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone used this stuff.What tricks to get it down with no bubbles? Do you use water or windex as a lube to slide it around or what?Thanks as usual,Dave
 

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If you're talking about the clear bra type material, I apply it wet using a solution of water and just a few drops of dish soap.
 

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Wizzr, Have you used this stuff very long? Your opinion of it. How hard to install? Is it noticable? My painter doesn't like it says it is to hard to get off if repairs are needed and that it yellows.
 

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Just had it put on guaranteed ten years not to yellow. I don’t want to drive a taxi>:)
 

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Wizzr, Have you used this stuff very long? Your opinion of it. How hard to install? Is it noticable? My painter doesn't like it says it is to hard to get off if repairs are needed and that it yellows.
I've done a bit of work with it but it's not my specialty. When I've applied it, it's been with material that's pre-cut using computer programs that generate exact, correctly sized pieces for the specific application or vehicle. In those situations, it's not hard to install at all. I have never used it as a "wrap type" application.

Is it noticeable? Yes and no. It's noticeable up close, up to a few feet away. You can see the seem lines if you're looking. But at a distance you'd never know it was there.

If your painter whines about removal, find a different painter. If the paint on the vehicle is in good shape, there should be no issues removing it. It just takes a little time and patience. But it's not a big deal.

I've never seen it yellow. But that's not to say it couldn't happen over time. I seriously doubt it would ever happen on a garaged vehicle but if you left it out to bake in the sun for a few years, maybe so.

As for bubbles during an application, it can happen. But if it does, you simply use a needle or a pin to pop it and release the air. The material wants to lay flat so letting the air out and gently heating the surface will cause the bubble to go away.

Hope that helps.
 

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If you are planning to cover any large areas or anything with tight or compound curves and you have never done this before then do not attempt it on your SSR. Go pay a professional.
1. The 3M film is not cheap and peeling it off and throwing it away in a mad rage is not fun.
2. This stuff is much harder to apply than instructions and YouTube videos make it out.
3. Flat surfaces are no problem but covering large compound surfaces like an SSR hood can confound you if you don't have experience installing films. Tight and compound curves can be near impossible without applying heat and having good experience.
4. Every place you touch the adhesive side of the film you will see a smudge after it dries even if you wear rubber gloves or wash your hands with soap and alcohol.

I have applied a lot of vinyl film and I still screw it up. Now I know my limits and let a professional handle it. Paying for an installer to do the job will be less painful than Throwing away several hundred $ worth of vinyl and nothing to show for it. Find a local shop that install clear paint protection and has great reviews or get recommendations. A place that does vehicle wraps doesn't necessarily qualify them to do clear unless they have experience with it.
Greg
 

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If you are planning to cover any large areas or anything with tight or compound curves and you have never done this before then do not attempt it on your SSR. Go pay a professional.
1. The 3M film is not cheap and peeling it off and throwing it away in a mad rage is not fun.
2. This stuff is much harder to apply than instructions and YouTube videos make it out.
3. Flat surfaces are no problem but covering large compound surfaces like an SSR hood can confound you if you don't have experience installing films. Tight and compound curves can be near impossible without applying heat and having good experience.
4. Every place you touch the adhesive side of the film you will see a smudge after it dries even if you wear rubber gloves or wash your hands with soap and alcohol.

I have applied a lot of vinyl film and I still screw it up. Now I know my limits and let a professional handle it. Paying for an installer to do the job will be less painful than Throwing away several hundred $ worth of vinyl and nothing to show for it. Find a local shop that install clear paint protection and has great reviews or get recommendations. A place that does vehicle wraps doesn't necessarily qualify them to do clear unless they have experience with it.
Greg
I agree with Texasbaehr. Compound curves are challenging at best and a nightmare at worst. If you're not experienced in stretching and/or shrinking vinyl and you aren't sure where to start your application on a vehicle, you may not want to tackle it.

And yes, NEVER touch the adhesive side of clear vinyl.

That said... if ya just wanna go for it and don't mind the possibility of a failure, knock yourself out. The worst that will happen is some $$ loss and some frustration. But at least you'll learn something and you might be able to pull off the job and walk away with a big smile.

Cheers! wizzr
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys for the words of wisdom. What I'm doing is the front edge of the top grill piece. I had mine done at a local shop here that does plating on plastic parts. They spray a silver solution on it and then several coats of clear. Just the front edge is all I'm gonna do. I have a 2" x 96" roll of the film protector. Here's the part.
 

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I actually install PPF for a living and do detailing more on the side. To do this piece correctly you would want to start from the center and squeegee the soapy water from the middle towards the headlight with just a slight tug of the film towards the headlight to get any wrinkles to lay flat.

Before you remove the backing, do a test fit and see how it looks and fits.

Are you using a pre-cut kit?

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No,it's a 2" wide roll. My plan is to keep the top straight and roll the bottom up under. I'll pre cut the length first.
 

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I actually install PPF for a living and do detailing more on the side. To do this piece correctly you would want to start from the center and squeegee the soapy water from the middle towards the headlight with just a slight tug of the film towards the headlight to get any wrinkles to lay flat.

Before you remove the backing, do a test fit and see how it looks and fits.

Are you using a pre-cut kit?

Josh
Thanks Josh. Was thinking about getting PPF installed on my Kamanari Fasica. am concerned that with so many angles it would have to be pieced and over time seams would show.
 

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I have tried it....and I only have a couple of hot
spots left to cover.

Suggestion.....
Before you have clear bra put on your R...
Do a 2 yr coating of Ceramic Pro. I will
take away all swirl marks and bring out
the luster in the paint. But it will not
stop road dings. That is where the clear
bra comes into play.

OH....and as quoted before..
Do not try this at home !!!!
Let a pro do it.

Frank....
 

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Thanks guys for the words of wisdom. What I'm doing is the front edge of the top grill piece. I had mine done at a local shop here that does plating on plastic parts. They spray a silver solution on it and then several coats of clear. Just the front edge is all I'm gonna do. I have a 2" x 96" roll of the film protector. Here's the part.
Do you know what company or process the chrome paint was done with ?

Looks good in the pictures, How does it compare to real chrome in your opinion?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well time will tell.They sand everything real smooth then put down a undercoating primer.Sand again then spray a silver solution on and bake it.Then clear coat,several coats with wet sanding in between. Quiet a process.It does look good,but it's like a high end paint job. I'm just putting this on to protect the front face against rock chips. It's supposed to be real durable. The company,ACC here in Haysville,do a lot of restoration parts and about anything you can think of,they can coat. Here's their Facebook and contact page.
https://www.facebook.com/AlternativeChromeCreations/
 

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Thanks Josh. Was thinking about getting PPF installed on my Kamanari Fasica. am concerned that with so many angles it would have to be pieced and over time seams would show.
So a few things to keep in mind when doing your bumper is that most installers use pre-cut kits which means there's software they are using to cut their patterns. On your bumper there will be no software available so if you decide to have it protected make sure you talk to the shop about it being done in bulk and if they are capable to handle that as many just are not good as doing it that way.

The three grill parts will need to be separate pieces all together and there will be some lines around those areas which are completely unavoidable no matter who does your install.

Yes seems and lines over time will get dirty and be more noticeable but they can be cleaned with a MF towel and some alcohol or adhesive remover and look like new again.


Josh
 

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I have tried it....and I only have a couple of hot
spots left to cover.

Suggestion.....
Before you have clear bra put on your R...
Do a 2 yr coating of Ceramic Pro. I will
take away all swirl marks and bring out
the luster in the paint. But it will not
stop road dings. That is where the clear
bra comes into play.

OH....and as quoted before..
Do not try this at home !!!!
Let a pro do it.

Frank....

Frank if I may correct one thing you said about doing a coating before the clear bra PPF install. Personally one should not put a ceramic coating or even any kind of wax/sealant protection on just before the clear bra is installed as this will make the surface very difficult for the film to adhere too since the coatings are designed to be extremely hydrophobic. This can create real problems for the installer of the film and possibly void any warranties the film comes with.

Also most Ceramic Coatings do not hide, cover up or remove swirls, the installer more then likely did a paint correction to your finish to make it look it's best before they applied the coating. This is common practice when applying coatings.


Josh
 
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Josh....

Well.....it is a bit to late to change what I have done.
I had the shop do 2 coatings....5 yr warranty on the
ceramic coating. Now over 1/2 of the R is wrapped
in clear bra.

They are finishing off the fenders now.
Then they will be doing all around the windshield.
and then the area below the doors.

The rest of the front is already done. And something
that they did....they managed to do the hood all in
one piece. So that I dont have lines anywhere on it.

Frank...
 

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2006 Pacific Blue times 23198 & 21474
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Come back to this thread in a year or so and let us know how it is going, unless there are problems before then (not wishing you any) so the rest of us will know.
 

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Josh....

Well.....it is a bit to late to change what I have done.
I had the shop do 2 coatings....5 yr warranty on the
ceramic coating. Now over 1/2 of the R is wrapped
in clear bra.

They are finishing off the fenders now.
Then they will be doing all around the windshield.
and then the area below the doors.

The rest of the front is already done. And something
that they did....they managed to do the hood all in
one piece. So that I dont have lines anywhere on it.

Frank...
Glad you're getting it protected, hopefully the film will adhere properly with the coating on under it. I'd keep an eye on the edges where the film starts and stops. Those areas may lift in time. I'd ask your installer what to do if any edges lift, just so they know you know. ;)

I did my R's hood in one piece as well, it was a real challenge but is possible.


Josh
 

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Come back to this thread in a year or so and let us know how it is going, unless there are problems before then (not wishing you any) so the rest of us will know.
I've had PPF on my R for over a year now and no issues. You can't even tell it's there and the swirls just heal away so it always looks new. I love it.


Josh
 
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