Baby got crunched!
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724 Posts
sorry man. At least you had some time. I misjudged the fender on the first day and banged up the car. I almost cried...
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2,342 Posts
Thanks
Thanks all, No Machelle I didn't cry but I sure felt like it. I'm glad it got hit in the back and not the front like Freezers. My ghost flames would have been a little harder to match up. I would have probably had to have them redone from scratch. It happened in a parking lot. I was backing out of my spot and a lady was backing out of her spot and we met in the middle. I couldn't believe the damage to mine compared to hers. She got a couple of scratches and a cracked tail light. When I called Mr. D's Body Shop ( he did the flames) and told him it got crunched the first thing he said was " I hope it wasn't the front end." I'm going to take it in tomorrow and hopefully they can get it done pretty quickly.
Thanks all, No Machelle I didn't cry but I sure felt like it. I'm glad it got hit in the back and not the front like Freezers. My ghost flames would have been a little harder to match up. I would have probably had to have them redone from scratch. It happened in a parking lot. I was backing out of my spot and a lady was backing out of her spot and we met in the middle. I couldn't believe the damage to mine compared to hers. She got a couple of scratches and a cracked tail light. When I called Mr. D's Body Shop ( he did the flames) and told him it got crunched the first thing he said was " I hope it wasn't the front end." I'm going to take it in tomorrow and hopefully they can get it done pretty quickly.
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742 Posts
lloger,
I am sorry that it happend. I will pray that they can do a great job matching the paint.
I am sorry that it happend. I will pray that they can do a great job matching the paint.
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236 Posts
The good news is.....
Geeez...sorry bout the hit 2 ur baby. :mad
The good news is
that the worst of it can probablly be pushed out by hand. That whole bottom piece is just plastic n will pop back out. If the paint isn't flaked n the metal support isn't bent...it may b OK. :thumbs
The rest is fixable n she'll b good as new.
Good luck.
:cool
Geeez...sorry bout the hit 2 ur baby. :mad
The good news is
that the worst of it can probablly be pushed out by hand. That whole bottom piece is just plastic n will pop back out. If the paint isn't flaked n the metal support isn't bent...it may b OK. :thumbs The rest is fixable n she'll b good as new.
Good luck.
:cool
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2,342 Posts
To answer your question Machelle the top was up. I drive with the top down at least 90% of the time but we had just left the house going to the Thursday night cruise and the top happened to be up. Normally I would have put it down before I pulled out of the garage, but it was a little hot so I decided to leave it up because my wife was with me. I just got back from the body shop and Mr. D wants to put it back like new and he said the damage was right on the borderline of being repairable and needing replacing so he priced it out for the bumper and quarter panel to be replaced. His estimate was $3500.00. Next week AAA will have their adjuster look at it and he and Mr. D will talk it over but the adjuster will have the final say. I hope they replace them so there will be no bondo and it will be like new.
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236 Posts
Don't do it!!!!!
DO NOT REPLACE THE 1/4 PANEL!!!! :nono He is either screwing u BIGTIME on the price n NOT replacing the 1/4 or he doesn't know the SSR body. U can NOT replace JUST the rear 1/4 panel. :nono U hav 2 cut the entire fender off all the way 4ward 2 the door seam. :mad Look at the side with the cargo cover open n u will understand that the whole side has 2 come off. It will NEVER line up correctly when they weld it back. :nono The rear valance is a 1 piece unit that is avail from Chevy 4 bout $600. The fender can b "tapped" out from inside with a little effort and the lite rim can b saved by the rite body guy. NO BONDO!!! Jus a skim coat will do if all is done rite.
My friend had almost exactly the same hit as u n it cost him $1100.00 total with matched paint n parts. His valance, although he was able 2 push it back out, had heavy damage 2 the metal frame that is around the top of the piece, so he had 2 replace the complete piece so it wud line up correctly with the proper gaps.
I'd check around b4 u spend that kinda $$$'s.
:cool
DO NOT REPLACE THE 1/4 PANEL!!!! :nono He is either screwing u BIGTIME on the price n NOT replacing the 1/4 or he doesn't know the SSR body. U can NOT replace JUST the rear 1/4 panel. :nono U hav 2 cut the entire fender off all the way 4ward 2 the door seam. :mad Look at the side with the cargo cover open n u will understand that the whole side has 2 come off. It will NEVER line up correctly when they weld it back. :nono The rear valance is a 1 piece unit that is avail from Chevy 4 bout $600. The fender can b "tapped" out from inside with a little effort and the lite rim can b saved by the rite body guy. NO BONDO!!! Jus a skim coat will do if all is done rite.
My friend had almost exactly the same hit as u n it cost him $1100.00 total with matched paint n parts. His valance, although he was able 2 push it back out, had heavy damage 2 the metal frame that is around the top of the piece, so he had 2 replace the complete piece so it wud line up correctly with the proper gaps.
I'd check around b4 u spend that kinda $$$'s.
:cool
2004 custom Paint and trim , ROTM winner #2, Previous owned R’s, 2006 #1 of 8 2 tone & 2005 silver
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3,058 Posts
Crunch
Lloyd
I own a collision shop for over 27 years and from what I can see from your picture I wouldn't even think of replacing the 1/4. Unless the panel is distorted towards the front, I would find a shop that has a good metal tech man.
Replacing the 1/4 will involve a lot of cutting and welding. Were the welding is done filler will have to be use to smooth it out so you would wind up with some filler regardless.
The bumper cover is of a rubber type of material but it still tends to distort when hit on a corner so I would replace that along with your tailight. The next critical thing is matching the yellow color. Sorry but that is one of the harder straight colors to match. Also less panels have to be painted if the rear part of the 1/4 is repaired
Look for another shop if they can't do this and good luck.
Doug :flag
Lloyd
I own a collision shop for over 27 years and from what I can see from your picture I wouldn't even think of replacing the 1/4. Unless the panel is distorted towards the front, I would find a shop that has a good metal tech man.
Replacing the 1/4 will involve a lot of cutting and welding. Were the welding is done filler will have to be use to smooth it out so you would wind up with some filler regardless.
The bumper cover is of a rubber type of material but it still tends to distort when hit on a corner so I would replace that along with your tailight. The next critical thing is matching the yellow color. Sorry but that is one of the harder straight colors to match. Also less panels have to be painted if the rear part of the 1/4 is repaired
Look for another shop if they can't do this and good luck.
Doug :flag
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2,342 Posts
Damage
The pics don't really show the extent of the damage. The fender is buckled out at the center of the wheel well and the front of the fender is pushed forward enough to almost touch the running board. The only thing he was really worried about was the recess around the taillight with the sharp edge. The fender edge is also ripped in three places which would have to be welded. There are also a few other considerations the pictures don't show. I appreciate all the input, but I know Mr. D's reputation and I've seen a lot of his work and he is very good. Does a lot of custom paint and does a lot of custom work for car builders, so I will probably go with whatever he feels is necessary. Replace or repair will also be the insurance adjusters call.
The pics don't really show the extent of the damage. The fender is buckled out at the center of the wheel well and the front of the fender is pushed forward enough to almost touch the running board. The only thing he was really worried about was the recess around the taillight with the sharp edge. The fender edge is also ripped in three places which would have to be welded. There are also a few other considerations the pictures don't show. I appreciate all the input, but I know Mr. D's reputation and I've seen a lot of his work and he is very good. Does a lot of custom paint and does a lot of custom work for car builders, so I will probably go with whatever he feels is necessary. Replace or repair will also be the insurance adjusters call.
2004 custom Paint and trim , ROTM winner #2, Previous owned R’s, 2006 #1 of 8 2 tone & 2005 silver
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3,058 Posts
crunch
Lloyd
Considering the other info you gave. With the front part pushed forward the rear side panel should be replaced because the panel is distorted horizontally. Sorry for the ill advised imput but just wanted to give you other options if the damage was just to the rear.
Hope all goes well
Doug :flag
Lloyd
Considering the other info you gave. With the front part pushed forward the rear side panel should be replaced because the panel is distorted horizontally. Sorry for the ill advised imput but just wanted to give you other options if the damage was just to the rear.
Hope all goes well
Doug :flag
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236 Posts
Pullin' it.....
Not 4 nothin but I think I wud try pullin it on a frame machine b4 cuttin' it up. :confused
My friends SSR had a similar hit with the fender crushed forward. His body guy put it on a frame machine to 1st check the frame n when it was determined that the frame was indeed still correct, 2nd to pull the fender back 2 straighten it out. It went back perfectly with all measurements correct to original. :thumbs
No need 2 cut it up.....its ur call, I'd try that 1st. U hav nothing 2 lose but a little time n mayb a few $$$'s xtra.
Good luck.
:cool
Not 4 nothin but I think I wud try pullin it on a frame machine b4 cuttin' it up. :confused
My friends SSR had a similar hit with the fender crushed forward. His body guy put it on a frame machine to 1st check the frame n when it was determined that the frame was indeed still correct, 2nd to pull the fender back 2 straighten it out. It went back perfectly with all measurements correct to original. :thumbs
No need 2 cut it up.....its ur call, I'd try that 1st. U hav nothing 2 lose but a little time n mayb a few $$$'s xtra.
Good luck.
:cool
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