black plastic for running board
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Some folks have had them taped off and sprayed with Linex bed liner black spray. Maybe they will chime in here.
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1,683 Posts
I don't think that there are any new ones around. You are going to need to recondition what you have. Scrub them clean and then use vinyl interior dye to make them black again
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9,391 Posts
Is the rubber damaged, or just turning a chalky grey?
From new, I have used Back to Black or Black Chrome. One is Meguiars, the other Mothers. Can't remember which is which without going to the garage to check.
I put it on a couple times a year, and my boards still look new. You could try one of those products first. It will likely take several applications to see some improvement, but start with a thorough scrubbing with a tire cleaning product to get the oxidation off.
If you don't see enough improvement with the products intended for black rubber exterior moldings, the next step would be to re-clean thoroughly to get rid of the product you just put on, and use a dye product for rubber.
The guys who remove the rubber and spray the step insert areas with a box liner product seem happy with the results. I prefer the smooth look of the factory rubber. It takes some scrubbing to keep the textured liner product clean, and probably some time removing the tape residue from the raw boards.
I like how Dicktator did his boards in the photo above, with three strips instead of a complete coverage.
From new, I have used Back to Black or Black Chrome. One is Meguiars, the other Mothers. Can't remember which is which without going to the garage to check.
I put it on a couple times a year, and my boards still look new. You could try one of those products first. It will likely take several applications to see some improvement, but start with a thorough scrubbing with a tire cleaning product to get the oxidation off.
If you don't see enough improvement with the products intended for black rubber exterior moldings, the next step would be to re-clean thoroughly to get rid of the product you just put on, and use a dye product for rubber.
The guys who remove the rubber and spray the step insert areas with a box liner product seem happy with the results. I prefer the smooth look of the factory rubber. It takes some scrubbing to keep the textured liner product clean, and probably some time removing the tape residue from the raw boards.
I like how Dicktator did his boards in the photo above, with three strips instead of a complete coverage.
If they are just chalky, they can be cleaned and treated to look new. If they are coming loose, they need to be removed cleaned up and re-attached.
I refinished my running boards as follows:
Removed the rubber pads which are held on with double sided tape. Using 3M adhesive remover clean the tape residue from the boards and the back of the rubber pads.
Clean the rubber pads using Scotch Bright abrasive pads and Westleys Blech White Tire cleaner. This will remove the oxidized rubber and provide a clean raw rubber surface. Treat the rubber surface with any of the available black trim restoration products out there. I use Mothers Back to Black. Several coats will be required after aggressive cleaning as above. Then, retreat every few months to maintain factory look.
I stripped and repainted the running boards with GM WA8867 Ultra Silver Metallic which is a near perfect match to the factory satin color. Or, Match the body color if you wish. Follow the color coat with one good or two light coats of 4K Urethane clear which can be found online. It is a two part urethane clear in an aerosol can that provides a very hard glassy finish. One can will do both boards unless you want extra protection then get two cans. Once you activate the can you have to use it in 48 hours.
I reinstalled the rubber pads using urethane construction adhesive. The urethane adhesive will stick to the rubber and painted surface permanently. Apply the adhesive evenly but sparingly and keep it at least 1/4" back from the edge of the pad so it don't ooze out. If it does ooze out then immediately wipe it out of the gap with alcohol before it skins over. Use painters masking tape all around the pad to hold the edge down tight to the boards until the glue is fully cured.
I then used Ultra Black Silicone Gasket sealer to seal the edge of the pad to the boards to prevent moisture and dirt from getting under it and loosening the edges again. Apply a very thin bead in the gap and then with an alcohol soaked shop towel carefully smooth it into the gap evenly and remove any excess from the board edges.
I did mine this way about 18 months ago and they still look new and are tight and easy to clean since the gap between the pad and board is filled.
Greg
I refinished my running boards as follows:
Removed the rubber pads which are held on with double sided tape. Using 3M adhesive remover clean the tape residue from the boards and the back of the rubber pads.
Clean the rubber pads using Scotch Bright abrasive pads and Westleys Blech White Tire cleaner. This will remove the oxidized rubber and provide a clean raw rubber surface. Treat the rubber surface with any of the available black trim restoration products out there. I use Mothers Back to Black. Several coats will be required after aggressive cleaning as above. Then, retreat every few months to maintain factory look.
I stripped and repainted the running boards with GM WA8867 Ultra Silver Metallic which is a near perfect match to the factory satin color. Or, Match the body color if you wish. Follow the color coat with one good or two light coats of 4K Urethane clear which can be found online. It is a two part urethane clear in an aerosol can that provides a very hard glassy finish. One can will do both boards unless you want extra protection then get two cans. Once you activate the can you have to use it in 48 hours.
I reinstalled the rubber pads using urethane construction adhesive. The urethane adhesive will stick to the rubber and painted surface permanently. Apply the adhesive evenly but sparingly and keep it at least 1/4" back from the edge of the pad so it don't ooze out. If it does ooze out then immediately wipe it out of the gap with alcohol before it skins over. Use painters masking tape all around the pad to hold the edge down tight to the boards until the glue is fully cured.
I then used Ultra Black Silicone Gasket sealer to seal the edge of the pad to the boards to prevent moisture and dirt from getting under it and loosening the edges again. Apply a very thin bead in the gap and then with an alcohol soaked shop towel carefully smooth it into the gap evenly and remove any excess from the board edges.
I did mine this way about 18 months ago and they still look new and are tight and easy to clean since the gap between the pad and board is filled.
Greg
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1,440 Posts
I cleaned mine several months ago with nothing more then #0000 steel wool and some 303 Aerospace cleaner, but you can use soapy water as a lubricant.
They literally look good as new and I did not use any form of darkening treatments or the like. No back to black or anything like that.
#0000 Steel Wool and a soapy lubricant. Took me about an hour for both, and lots of elbow grease.
I'll see if I can get any pics up....
Josh
They literally look good as new and I did not use any form of darkening treatments or the like. No back to black or anything like that.
#0000 Steel Wool and a soapy lubricant. Took me about an hour for both, and lots of elbow grease.
I'll see if I can get any pics up....
Josh
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3,983 Posts
I took mine off, prepped the boards, painted them and put them back on.
I left the rubber off. Smokin'n Asphalt.
Dave
I left the rubber off. Smokin'n Asphalt.
Dave
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1,683 Posts
Look amazing!
I did the same and they look great now.
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