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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a friend that has an 03 that decided to drive through a flooded street during one of our rains. Well the engine locked up and broke one of the rods in half. The insurance company is paying to fix it. The shop doing the work needs the bolt torque specs to get his SSR back on the road. If anyone knows or has these and is willing to share them please let me know. They called GM and was told it's not for public knowledge.

Thanks
Brian
 

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I looked in my Helm manual and there are zillions of possible answers to your question. There are bolt specs for everything. Perhaps you could be a bit more specific? Are you talking about the engine mount bolts? The valve cover bolts? flywheel torque? You see what I mean? If I was your mechanic, actually, if I were you, I would order the helm book online. It has two volumes of great tech. info. for your SSR. If you post the specific parts you want torque for I can look them up in my manual for you. These two manuals are about 2 inches thick each so there are quite a few pages to look at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry I should have known better. What they need is the engine reassembly. I called and the ones they have left are the oil pan.

Thanks
Brian
 

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Tighten as follows:
InstallationProcedure:
Important
-The alignment of the structural oil pan is critical. The rear bolt hole locations of the oil pan provide mounting points for the transmission bellhousing. To ensure the rigidity of the powertrain and correct transmission alingment, it is important that the rear of the block and the rear of the oil pan must NEVER protrude beyond the engine block and transmission belllhousing plane.
-Do not reuse the oil pan gasket.
-It is not necessary to rivet the NEW gasket to the oil pan.

1. apply a 5mm (0.20 in) bead of sealant GM U.S. P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20mm (0.80 in) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrudes into the oil pan surface.

2. Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) bead of soealant GM U.S. P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20 mm (0.8 in) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the rear cover gasket that protrudes into the oil pan surface.

Important: Be sure to align the oil gallery passages in the oil pan and engine block properly with the oil pan gasket.

3. Pre-assemble the oil pan gasket to the pan.
-Install the gasket onto the pan.
-Install the oil pan bolts to the pan and through the gasket.

4. Install the oil pan, gasket and bolts to the engine block.

5. Tighten the oil pan bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.

6. Install the transmission bolt and stud on the right side until snug, if equipped with 4L60-E automatic transmission.

7.1 Tighten the oil pan and oil pan-to-oil pan front cover bolts to 25 N•m (18 lb ft).

7.2 Tighten the oil pan-to-rear cover bolts to 12 N•m (106 lb in).

7.3 Tighten the bellhousing, converter cover, and transmission bolts/stud to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).

7.4 Install engine harness to front of oil pan.

8. Connect the oil level sensor electrical connector.

9. Install the transmission cover and bolt.
Tighten the transmission cover bolt to 12 N•m (106 lb in).

10. Install the crossbar.

11. Install the crossbar bolts.
tighten the crossbar bolts to 100 N•m (74 lb ft).

12 Install the starter motor.

these are the oil pan replacemnent instructions directly from the manual. Hope it helps ya!
Ed

If you need me to look up more, you will have to wait. My SSR goes in to the dealer on Monday to get the new hinges on and to have them check out the intermittent horn problem and the object hitting the fan on my blower motor for the AC controls. No tellin how long they will be keeping her in the body shop, but John is good with his work and my manuals should help him do even better!
 

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Brian: Glad we nailed it. I hope to drive out to Arizona next year. This year I am doing a Northeast gig to Nova Scotia and Niagra, but I long to do the desert southwest trip. I pray we can squeeze it in later this summer too but ya never know.
 

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How deep was that?

engemt said:
Have a friend that has an 03 that decided to drive through a flooded street during one of our rains. Well the engine locked up and broke one of the rods in half......
Brian
He broke a pushrod? Does that mean he plowed enough water to pull it in through the intake, causing a cylinder to fill with water.

Just how deep was the water?


Edit: Honest, I was thinking connecting rod when I wrote the above. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No it was the connecting rod. He says it was two feet deep, but we all wonder about that. The intake looked like a fish bowl. The air filter weighed about five pounds. The only damage was the broken rod, nothing else was bad not even a scratch.

Brian
 

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engemt said:
No it was the connecting rod. He says it was two feet deep, but we all wonder about that. The intake looked like a fish bowl. The air filter weighed about five pounds. The only damage was the broken rod, nothing else was bad not even a scratch.

Brian
At two feet, I don't think it would take much speed to plow the water up into the intake. It only has to go over the bowtie. Even if the water was below the floorboards, with enough speed, the water could plow up and into the intake.

I take it He didn't expect it to be as deep as it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
He swears the speedo was barely moving. Don't know but I do know to my surprise insurance is covering it all.

Brian
 
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