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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Broken pump?

Talked to my painter, and he was telling me that all the hydraulic fluid to open and close the top, has apparently leaked into the top well.

One of the guys had pushed the down button, the lock had disengaged, the hatch on the back where the door folds into opened, but that is as far as it got, except for the top is open a tiny bit. He said they started the car and a light came on in dash saying something about top cycle failure.

Does anyone know what could be the problem here. The fluid is @$60 a quart, so the sooner we can figure this out the better.

He tells me they didn't do anything with it, all they have ever done is just raise and lower it. How can we close this? What do we need to do?
 

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Machell
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I have had time out cycle warnings the past few days. take it to the dealer it is under warranty and it probably needs a refill!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am sure it does if all the fluid has leaked into the area where the tops folds into, the question is, how can we close it up, and the back hatch to drive it to dealership?

I think Dingbat had an issue with this (closing top maually) while in Lansing,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As far as I know, no lines were harmed in the painting of this truck.
 

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Focks said:
As far as I know, no lines were harmed in the painting of this truck.
Well, If it happened while it was in someone elses hands I would be well....:skep

Also beware if GM thinks it broke with help you will be footing the bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You dont know this painter like I do. You do not get to the level of clients or business he has come and going out of there, not to trust them. Personally, I think this was something that was probally in the offing and it just happened while they had it.

Also since this has happned to more then just one person out there, I know I have nothing to worry about.
 

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If there is a common "weak link" then it should be easy to locate. Is there a TSB for this?
 

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Retired GM Program Manager/ Chief SSR Engineer
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There are instructions for manually opening and closing the top in the owners manual. It is not easy and takes a lot of effort with a strong steady pull. You need the latch tool or a steel bar to pull with. Leaks of the fluid is most often a disconnected hydraulic line, although if you have done many cycles, an abraded line is possible. Your dealer is best for fixing this unless you spot the disconnected line on your own. If the fluid in in the top compartment then the leak should be visible. Sometime the leak is at the latch cylinder that is inside the quarter panel. If this is the case, the fluid just disappears. The header latches are electric not hydraulic.
 

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Focks said:
Talked to my painter, and he was telling me that all the hydraulic fluid to open and close the top, has apparently leaked into the top well.

One of the guys had pushed the down button, the lock had disengaged, the hatch on the back where the door folds into opened, but that is as far as it got, except for the top is open a tiny bit. He said they started the car and a light came on in dash saying something about top cycle failure.

Does anyone know what could be the problem here. The fluid is @$60 a quart, so the sooner we can figure this out the better.

He tells me they didn't do anything with it, all they have ever done is just raise and lower it. How can we close this? What do we need to do?


Remember if you have to pay for the fluid yourself, there is this thread:
http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5919&highlight=hydraulic+fluid

You could always clean up the mess and then put some fluid in the resevoir, hit the button and see where it squirts out :rolleyes:
 

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Original SSR Centerfold
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Focks said:
I am sure it does if all the fluid has leaked into the area where the tops folds into, the question is, how can we close it up, and the back hatch to drive it to dealership?

I think Dingbat had an issue with this (closing top maually) while in Lansing,
The problem I had in Lansing was the top not opening all the way. The problem was with a sensor in one of the cylinders. I did not have any leak.
Your problem should be a warranty item unless there is some obvious sign that the painters screwed something up. If that is the case then they should be responsible to repair the damage.

The service manual for the roof (did I send you one????) says there are 16 hoses in the roof hydraulic system. The way to find the leak is just as WOW said. Clean it up, put some fluid in and try it to see where it leaks from.
Good Luck.
 

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About 3/4 of my fluid was gone the first year. I bought a bottle of the fluid and I believe there is a SAAB equivalent of it as well. I check the level every other week and also check all the cables and hoses for wear, abrassion, and leaks. This is good preventive maintenance everyone should do. I would think your painter had to disassemble the top to paint it so the reconnect on some of the hoses may have been wrong. Do either of you have the helms manual to refer to for the proper hook up of the lines?

I have had to wrap several wires with electrical tape because they wouldl catch on the hinges over time. Hope you get that gorgeous patriotic beauty back together soon, but fear not, you have one of the coolest cars/trucks ever made and once back together will be the envy of everyone out there, including this forum. good luck my friend.:seeya
 

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2006 Aqua Blur 22578
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Wonder why Chevy didn't use a similar design to the '57 - '59 Ford Skyliner...no hydraulics at all. Screw jacks, flex cables. They could have combined modern electronics with a design like that. It would have been much smaller too because of the much smaller and lighter roof of the SSR.
 

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Machell
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Did you actually see a leak, or wet spot?

Sorry didn't read your post well, didn't know it was stuck open.

Any luck with a fix yet?
 

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Original SSR Centerfold
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dingbat said:
The service manual for the roof (did I send you one????) says there are 16 hoses in the roof hydraulic system. The way to find the leak is just as WOW said. Clean it up, put some fluid in and try it to see where it leaks from.
Good Luck.

Just to clear this up, the manual I am talking about is described in this thread, http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6365&highlight=training+manual It is a training manual. As I said in the other thread, PM me your email if you want one and I will email. There are 5 PDF files totaling over 20Mb so make sure your server can handle it.
 

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Growing Older but Not Up
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most likely

a slow leak on the line. I had this problem this past summer, the line had gotten a small crimp and developed a slow leak that eventually lead to enought of a loss to stop it from working. If you can see fluid in the bottom of the roof compartment, its lost quite a bit, its doesn't hold very much. Check your lines where they connect to the struts carefully, its hard to see some times. I'd take it to the dealer, they can fix it easily, providing they can get the fluid, I had to wait 3 weeks for mine to come in.
 
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