[Skubadoo]

I am a new SSR owner year 2003. I love it. Just had an issue. The covered wires that hook into the tonneau cover started smoking an melting. Took fuse out for the light and that stopped it from heating. But now my top won’t go down. It says cargo is ajar. Was not happening prio to this literal melt down. Can anybody tell me how this would effect the hard top. The tonneau cover still locks into place and pops when I push it on the key fob. Just no top Dow. Please help this mechanically inept lady. Thank you.

 

[Knightranger]

Hi Skubadoo,
You might try to send a PM to dicktator as he is the most knowledgeable in regards to the SSR and the tops. He will have an answer. Also Tell us where you are located as there are SSR fanatic all over the country that might be able to help.
Dennis

 

[BlueStreak]

Try unplugging the cable at the connector on the bed cover near the hinge. There is a circuit board behind the carpet on the cover and it may have been damaged.

 

[Mike in AZ]

This is not the first one...... We have had a number of this type failure. The fault may be on the circuit board or in the connector that is on the cable. I have been able to source the replacement connectors, but have not built any of the circuit boards yet. I am seeking a "sample" of the OEM circuit board, so that I can replicate it.

Mike

 

[Dicktator]

It's on my SSR How to Library.

Link: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look up BED LIGHT FIX

Ed Borland aka ED in Fl found the problem, 3amp light 10 or 15 amp fuse.

Stops RDM from working. Disconnect wire, ISOLATE them!

Check fuse behind passengers seat, RDM make sure it is ok.

Dicktator

PS I have LED Bed light kits in stock, change yours before it burns up too!

 

[nj6969]

Skubadoo, Welcome from Forney Texas!!! you have found the BEST FORUM ever! BUT-----Consider going to "Tools" in the red banner, click on "User CP" go to "Your Profile" then click "Edit Your Details". Then, whenever you "post" it will show in the left column under your name, like the rest of us, and we will know where you are and what you drive. Then if you have a problem, someone close by might be able to help out.

Nick & Kathy

 

[grizzleybear]

Welcome from Fountain Colorado sorry to hear you're having problems but you come to the right place

 

[Skubadoo]

Thanks all for your help and ideas. So excited to finally own a SSR. 2003 with only 29000 miles. It's not only great to look at but a beast of a little truck.

 

[BlueStreak]

Thanks all for your help and ideas. So excited to finally own a SSR. 2003 with only 29000 miles. It's not only great to look at but a beast of a little truck.

The best two things yo can do to thank us is attend an event and introduce yourself

and

go to the User CP button at the top when you click TOOLS on the bar above. Then under Your Profile on the left you will find Edit Your Profile where you can enter your general location and a bit about your SSR so when you ask another question we will all have an idea of what you have and where you are.

 

[ED in FL]

A burnt Cargo Bay light connector is very common.
To get the Roof working slice into the wire cover running from the side of the "R", going to the burnt connector.
Pull the Red/Black wire out far enough to cut the wire.
Tape the end of the Red/Black wire that goes to the side of the "R".

When the connector burns, it grounds the Red/Black wire.
This wire turns on the cargo bay light and it also goes the the Roof Door Module and stops the roof from operating when grounded.

 

[Mike in AZ]

Update on repair solutions

Many thanks to the supportive members of this forum.

I have had a couple SSR owners contact me today with offers to send the small circuit board. I also have one as part of my truck that I can look at. Here’s the status as of this evening:

Electrical wiring diagram for the cable and plug is known.
Electrical plug, pins and strain relief samples are headed my way from supplier.
Sample of bulkhead connector that mounts to circuit board is on its way from supplier.
OEM circuit board with relay is on its way (on loan) from fellow SSR owner.
The relay on the circuit board is not yet identified or sourced.
Fabricating a replacement circuit board has not yet been started.

I expect to have both a replacement harness plug and a simple replacement circuit board available in 2-3 weeks.

Regards,

Mike

 

[river_rat]

Mike
I have the part number/mfg for the dual relay (readily available) back at the house as well as the connectors. I posted most of that info for Robby a few years back. I'll locate that info when I get back.

 

[river_rat]

Here is all the connector info (see post #31), will find NEC relay info.

http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/cargo-cover-elec-connection-92818/

 

[river_rat]

Relay info below (NEC/Tokin ET2-B3M1S). GM used a dual relay on the board, but only half (one relay) is actually used. NEC/Tokin offers a similar single relay as well.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=rjnFDYRVT0qBeorXS1%2FmWQ%3D%3D

 

[Dicktator]

A burnt Cargo Bay light connector is very common.
To get the Roof working slice into the wire cover running from the side of the "R", going to the burnt connector.
Pull the Red/Black wire out far enough to cut the wire.
Tape the end of the Red/Black wire that goes to the side of the "R".

When the connector burns, it grounds the Red/Black wire.
This wire turns on the cargo bay light and it also goes the the Roof Door Module and stops the roof from operating when grounded.

This is the correct information on WHY and HOW to get roof working again.

Ed is the one who discovered and isolated the problem when it first developed.

Dicktator

 

[Mike in AZ]

Thanks for the help Dick, Ed and Gary. I now see how much work has been done in the past and appreciate the work that has gone before. I had forgotten that this ground had been trampled before.

I’ve had a look at the circuit diagram in the manual with your comments in mind and agree that it could be simplified. I’ll be laying it out with a single relay instead of the double that GM used. According to Newark Electronics (one of my preferrred suppliers), that dual relay package is no longer manufactured. It would be smarter to use a single package.

Regards,

Mike

 

[Dicktator]

Thanks for the help Dick, Ed and Gary. I now see how much work has been done in the past and appreciate the work that has gone before. I had forgotten that this ground had been trampled before.

I’ve had a look at the circuit diagram in the manual with your comments in mind and agree that it could be simplified. I’ll be laying it out with a single relay instead of the double that GM used. According to Newark Electronics (one of my preferrred suppliers), that dual relay package is no longer manufactured. It would be smarter to use a single package.

Regards,

Mike

Thanks Mike, It would be nice to have a simple replacement for the PC board. NO need to have "truck on fire".

Looking forward to a "kit" to replace Bed Light PC Relay.

Dicktator