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Discussion Starter #1
I tried opening my roof this morning and received the dreaded cargo cover ajar message. I opened the cargo cover and closed it and got the same message. I noticed that the cargo light was not working. I have the LED light kit. I checked the 1 amp fuse and it was blown. This fuse has blown before but don't recall having any roof issues before i noticed it. Would this keep the roof from opening and can i put a little larger fuse in, say a 2 amp fuse in to see if this makes a difference?
 

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First thing I would check out is Dictator's library to see if he has covered anything there. He has done a lot of work on the bed light, harness issues, fuses blown so it maybe covered there.
 

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Premium Member
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572 Posts
Do not put in a larger fuse yet.
Try operating the roof - if the roof works, put in a 2 amp fuse & check to see if the cargo cover light is working.
If working, you are done.

If the roof does not operate, check the cargo cover light connector for burning - if burnt remove the 2 amp fuse
When the connector burns, it usually grounds the Red/Black wire from the cover latch micro switch.
This wire turns on the cargo cover light AND stops the roof from working when grounded.
To get the roof to work, cut a small vertical slit in the wire sleeve going to the connector, pull the Red/Black wire out far enough to cut the wire and tape both ends of the wire.
The roof will now work.
The cargo cover light connector needs to be replaced or altered to function.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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12,674 Posts
Do not put in a larger fuse yet.
Try operating the roof - if the roof works, put in a 2 amp fuse & check to see if the cargo cover light is working.
If working, you are done.

If the roof does not operate, check the cargo cover light connector for burning - if burnt remove the 2 amp fuse
When the connector burns, it usually grounds the Red/Black wire from the cover latch micro switch.
This wire turns on the cargo cover light AND stops the roof from working when grounded.
To get the roof to work, cut a small vertical slit in the wire sleeve going to the connector, pull the Red/Black wire out far enough to cut the wire and tape both ends of the wire.
The roof will now work.
The cargo cover light connector needs to be replaced or altered to function.
Ed Borland advice is what to follow: Ed did all the discovery on this Bed Light Problem, 15 amp fuse in 03/04 and 10 amp fuse in 05/06. CHANGE THEM BEFORE FIRE!

Go to SSR How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

You can buy LED Bed Light Kit from me or Mike Moro aka Simple Engineering. LED and two 1 amp fuses. $15.00 includes mailing.

Dicktator

Bed light PC Board is NOT insulated from steel bed cover, short out, stops roof.
LED brighter and .05 amp.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to chase down some 2 amp fuses. Before installing it I removed the entire light assembly and inspected the wires and found no problems. I did the same withe front plug and saw no visible problems there. I did have an issue reattaching that plug because the top part was lifting up. I finally got it reattached. With the light still unplugged I replaced the #40 fuse and it blew immediately. I then removed the front plug and put another fuse in and It didn't blow and the top now operates. Does the #40 fuse operate anything besides the cargo light and is there any problems leaving that fuse in. Any thoughts what the problem may be.
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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4,397 Posts
I would say you have a short somewhere from the front plug to forward (away from the fuse) or in the plug itself. Smarter guys than me will give their thoughts!

Nick
 
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