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Hope this helps someone else: I had the CARGO COVER AJAR warning when I would try to "drop the top" and my top would not operate. The culprit: the wiring connector at the cargo lid (drivers side near the front of lid). It had partially melted. The cargo light is inop (why I checked the connector) but with the wire disconnected, the code is gone and the top works. My guess for meltdown - the light is meant for intermittent use only. Leaving it ON for extended periods caused the connector to overheat. Why it "codes" - no clue :)

May the Force be with you!

WildThing
 

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Hope this helps someone else: I had the CARGO COVER AJAR warning when I would try to "drop the top" and my top would not operate. The culprit: the wiring connector at the cargo lid (drivers side near the front of lid). It had partially melted. The cargo light is inop (why I checked the connector) but with the wire disconnected, the code is gone and the top works. My guess for meltdown - the light is meant for intermittent use only. Leaving it ON for extended periods caused the connector to overheat. Why it "codes" - no clue :)

May the Force be with you!

WildThing
I had this happen to me and the culprit was water intrusion. Water after rain/wash would collect in carpet and when the lid was raised the water settled around the sensor and shorted it out. Melted circuit board and connector. Dealer wanted $2300 to repair. The light/sensor/carpet is one assembly. Looking for junk yard to get sensor now. With that sensor disconnected you could accidently lower/raise roof with cargo cover open and I dont think that is a good thing.
 

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Hope this helps someone else: I had the CARGO COVER AJAR warning when I would try to "drop the top" and my top would not operate. The culprit: the wiring connector at the cargo lid (drivers side near the front of lid). It had partially melted. The cargo light is inop (why I checked the connector) but with the wire disconnected, the code is gone and the top works. My guess for meltdown - the light is meant for intermittent use only. Leaving it ON for extended periods caused the connector to overheat. Why it "codes" - no clue :)

May the Force be with you!

WildThing
I have driving this truck (2004) daily and never had any problems, until this spring and I wanted the top down. Finally took some time to look and saw what you saw. I am getting the same code. The connection had totally melted. I got it off but it just crumbled in my hand. There was still power to the wir\ing, so I cut off the bad connector and wrapped with tape. But I still get the same code when I try to put down the top.?? Is there a fuse for this light? I do notice but for a long time that the left rear corner of the cargo cover does not seem to latch as securely as the right side? I could care less about the light but not sure what to do from this point on. Any suggestions?
 

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Yes there is a fuse for the light in the rear fuse box on the passengers side of the console it is fuse # 40. There is a repair in the library section going over changing the fuse and light to an LED light. Title is Bed Light Fix
 

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I have driving this truck (2004) daily and never had any problems, until this spring and I wanted the top down. Finally took some time to look and saw what you saw. I am getting the same code. The connection had totally melted. I got it off but it just crumbled in my hand. There was still power to the wir\ing, so I cut off the bad connector and wrapped with tape. But I still get the same code when I try to put down the top.?? Is there a fuse for this light? I do notice but for a long time that the left rear corner of the cargo cover does not seem to latch as securely as the right side? I could care less about the light but not sure what to do from this point on. Any suggestions?
Here is the fix both before and after. The fuse for the bed light is 15 or 10 amps. Far exceeds the rating of the connector and wire. replace bulb with LED and fuse with 1amp. Click this link for Dictators repair instructions with step by step pictures. OneDrive
 

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Hope this helps someone else: I had the CARGO COVER AJAR warning when I would try to "drop the top" and my top would not operate. The culprit: the wiring connector at the cargo lid (drivers side near the front of lid). It had partially melted. The cargo light is inop (why I checked the connector) but with the wire disconnected, the code is gone and the top works. My guess for meltdown - the light is meant for intermittent use only. Leaving it ON for extended periods caused the connector to overheat. Why it "codes" - no clue :)

May the Force be with you!

WildThing
Leaving the light on is not the issue. It will turn off after 10 minutes. I leave my cargo lid open when parked in my garage. Light was switched to LED a week after I got it.
 

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Make sure the burnt wires are not touching each other. This can cause some issue with top operation.
 

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On my SSR How to Library: Look up BED LIGHT FIX


I have and Mike Moro aka http://www.simple-engineering.com/ has LED replacement for OEM Bed Light.

Before you have fire.

OEM has 3amp halogen bulb against 10amp fuse! How is fuse going to blow?? Can't, fire/damage first burning out wires.

Dicktator

damage from short in light wiring. PC board hits metal roof/bed cover. Yellow wire HOT all the time!
Last picture LED half amp, 3 times as bright, includes 1amp fuse to replace OEM 10amp fuse in rear fuse box.
 

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On my SSR How to Library: Look up BED LIGHT FIX


I have and Mike Moro aka http://www.simple-engineering.com/ has LED replacement for OEM Bed Light.

Before you have fire.

OEM has 3amp halogen bulb against 10amp fuse! How is fuse going to blow?? Can't, fire/damage first burning out wires.

Dicktator

damage from short in light wiring. PC board hits metal roof/bed cover. Yellow wire HOT all the time!
Last picture LED half amp, 3 times as bright, includes 1amp fuse to replace OEM 10amp fuse in rear fuse box.
Do you have a new connector as well as the bulb? The old is totally melted and crumbled in my hand when I tried to disconnect it from lid. Do I need to check the "computer board"? Does this require a removal of the 'carpet' cover liner? Is how-to in your library? If the wires are totally disconnected and seperated, should the top come down? I saw the directions on how to change the fuse and bulb, but nothing on the computer board. I have also read on site that the cargo cover ajar switch is at the left rear latch area. Sorry for all the dumb questions....I used to be a decent mechanic....but 75 years has taken its toll!!
 

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Do you have a new connector as well as the bulb? The old is totally melted and crumbled in my hand when I tried to disconnect it from lid. Do I need to check the "computer board"? Does this require a removal of the 'carpet' cover liner? Is how-to in your library? If the wires are totally disconnected and seperated, should the top come down? I saw the directions on how to change the fuse and bulb, but nothing on the computer board. I have also read on site that the cargo cover ajar switch is at the left rear latch area. Sorry for all the dumb questions....I used to be a decent mechanic....but 75 years has taken its toll!!
Contact [email protected] and see what he says. At one point he was working on a replacement.
 
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