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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is probably old news to some of you, but just in case others don't know, Chevrolet IS replacing the aluminum driveshaft on my 2004 SSR with a newly designed one that includes some sort of dampers that will eliminate the "ting" sound I get right now every time I put the SSR into gear, forward or reverse, and sometimes duing gearchanges as well.

What prompted me to investigate is that I drove up to a speedshop where I am planning to get my rear axle ratio changed soon, and the experienced mechanics there instantly asked "do you know your u-joints are failing?"

I took the SSR into the Chev dealer and a Chev mechanic verified that the "ting" was there, but found out that Chevrolet has identified the cause as windup in the aluminum driveshaft followed by sudden release against the u-joints. They have developed a modified driveshaft design that includes some form of damping mechanism to prevent this phenomenon. The dealer orderd it in, and when it gets here, he will install it in about one hour of work.

I wanted to get this corrected BEFORE I had the rear axle ratio swapped, so that there can be no claim that the ratio swap somehow caused it.

Jim G
 
G

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Help on Drive Shaft

How will the dealer know it is to be replaced free of charge ? Bulletin or TSB ?
Mine (TINKS) alot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am assuming there is a TSB on it. The service advisor and the mechanic both told me that they already ordered the new part number and will call me when it arrives.

Jim G
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ron: I have no way of knowing whether it was a "bulletin" or "TSB". I don't really care which. It is FREE to me under warranty is all I know for sure.

Jim G
 

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We just took ours to Service Dept at the dealership and said driveshaft is "tinging" on gear change and they changed ours out, no questions asked. Gave us a rental car and all, so it's something they're aware of. After the change there is much less noise, and noise we thought was coming from convertible top compartment is now gone, so must have been from driveshaft. May be my imagination, but it seems to be shifting a little better too...
 

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Machell
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If you can please find out when this update was made! Several of us have had the change done only to have the "tink" come back. As of my last oil change in Jan. No new parts were available. But the mechanic new the cause of the noise and said it wasn't a driving hazard. It would be nice to know if it is a TSB so that we can share this news with each other and with dealers who seem to have little time for sharing this information with us.
 

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Original SSR Centerfold
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I had mine replaced with the new driveshaft a couple months ago. New one has a "doughnut" around the front portion.
It helped for a while and the ting is now back.
Someone mentioned there is one in the works with sound deadening material inside.
Is this newer version available yet? Or are they still using the original "new" driveshaft?
 

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I am amazed at how some of your dealerships are taking care of your warranty issues. I actually have the replacement hinges for my SSR and my dealership is giving me all kinds of grief to get them installed. This morning they said I would have to pay for the installation which is a huge chunck of change! I said no way. So here I sit with faulty hinges from an early vin # SSR and the dealership is jerking me around. Unfortunately, their mechanics are the very best in the area and I don't want to go to the others. Guess I am between a rock and a hard place. They did not even know the part no'.s of the hinges until I showed them the new ones. They are clearly thicker than the one's on my SSR by about a 1/16" in places, maybe more in other places. I asked them if they had the service manual on the SSR and they said they did not know? How could they not know? They either have it or don't. Guess they will need my service manual to install them too. I am getting pretty irritated with all this stuff!!!! :rant :rant :boxing :rant :boxing :cuss
 

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hinges

Hi cruzned ,How did you get a hold of the hinges. My #793 will be due for the install this spring .PS what is the part no?
 

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Machell
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Sounds like it is time for a call to GM. So far any warranty work has included the labor too. I have not had to pay anything. I was told the last time I was at the dealer, that the only way to make the tink go away was a baffle, but at that time they did not know if or when it would be available. Mine was changed once but the tink came back.
 

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Hey, Cruzned.

I "helped" the GM tech install mine - he hadn't seen the tonneau go up before.

It's not a bad do-it-yourself project. I would rather have done it myself, but they had the hinges, and it was warranty.

You can handle it with a second body to help lift and re-install the tonneau. I would recommend using some wide masking tape to keep the flipper attached to the tonneau. We used a large towel on the rear deck to make sure nothing got scratched. Unbolt the tonneau, put it aside, then remove the hinges from the truck, after disconnecting the hydraulic cylinders - just a matter of getting a flatblade under the clip, the popping them off. There are also clips holding the hycraulic hoses in place.

With the new hinges installed, next step is to re-install the tonneau, then lower it carefully and slowly to see if the parts all clear. I would suggest putting masking tape on the front edge of the rear lid, and rear edge of the tonneau, in case there is interference.

No problem with the install - biggest issue was re-adjusting the tonneau to fit properly. Still have an issue with one edge being slightly higher, and had hoped to get instructions from jimjack on how to deal with it. He indicated that was his job at Lansing, but unfortunately has not replied yet - maybe because the plant is closed?

Ray
 

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My guy in their body shop is good. I had the same prob. with one side being higher and he fixed it but the time outs still continued. I would do this myself but now it is down to the principle of the thing. They should fix this problem!
 

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Tink

Hey Jim,

My 03 hasn't developed the tink yet but you said that the guys at the speed shop asked you if you knew that your U-joints were failing.Did you have to replace them as well? I don't mind a tiny noise but failing U-joints on a low milage vehicle is scary to say the least.
Thanks
Craig
 

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CruznEd,
Which dealer are you taking yours too? I had a very bad experience with, RK Chevrolet, Priority and Colonial when we lived there. Priority would not stand behind a defective Z28 we bought from them. I ended up trading it in on the 96 SS at Bill Lewis Chevrolet (Hall Chevy now) and always had great dealings with the service department out there. Hampton Chevy in Hampton was also pretty decent, that is where my salesman went after Hall bought out Freedom Chevy. I didn't have any dealings with Bay Chevrolet.
I'd call the GM line and escalate the problem.
Good Luck,
Leo
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Craig: The u-joints turn ut to be fine. It just SOUNDS exactly like failing u-joints would, because the cause is similar:slack movement of the driveshaft being abruptly stopped!

The Chev mechanic does NOT have to replace the u-joints. Just the aluminum driveshaft with a better one.

Jim G
 

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04Z16-Been using Priority because I believe in their mechanic and he does know how to fix my problem. The problem is with the leadership and bureaucracy. I plan on making copies of everything and faxing it to them. I looked at the parts and they have numbers all over the place! I just wrote em all down and will fax them the receipt that came with them.
 

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Good news. Just talked with Priority Chev. in Chesapeake, VA and they are going to install the hinges I have. NOw they just have to find a date where they can squeeze me in!
 
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