Chevy SSR Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I would like to rub the inside of my wheel rims down and apply a fresh coat of paint as I have noticed a little oxidation coming through so as I plan to take the wheels off to under seal I thought I would do the wheels at the same time, so any advice? Thanks People
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
654 Posts
Maybe @TXNSSR will chime in. He just refinished the barrels on one of his R’s....


Wheel colors (not chrome):
The Wheel Color code for 2003 & 2004 models up to May is 73P (Sterling Silver), after that the code is 96P (ultra silver).

Chrome wheels paint code for inside..........WA140L............
 

·
Premium Member
2006 S/C Silver & 2006 Pac Blue 6spd
Joined
·
879 Posts
After my experience, my advice to everyone is if you see “a little oxidation” or any peeling paint you should get after it. I’ve lost two rear chrome wheels that had a little oxidation in the barrels, and a lot more lurking inside. The lurking part were huge oxidation “divots” around the bead that eventually led to the wheel not holding air. Oxidation will creep if not addressed. The front wheels had some paint peeling around the inner lip. I didn’t think anything about the paint peeling, however underneath the peeling paint were some oxidation patches. The good used OEM chromed rear rims i purchased to replace the bad ones had the barrels stripped by the previous owner. They came from an arid climate and the chrome in the barrels had a few light oxidation spots. Below is what I did to all four wheels.

  • Remove paint, weights and leftover wheel weight tape
  • Remove any/all oxidation
  • Scuff with a Scotchbrite pad
  • Alodine the entire wheel. This will convert and seal any exposed aluminum (i.e. the oxidation spots) and provide good adhesion for primer. You’ll know when you’ve got an exposed area when it turns yellow. Three out of 4 wheels had some yellow patches/spots I could see after applying the alodine.
  • Prime the wheel with a light coat of zinc oxide primer. This stuff sticks like crazy glue, seals the surface and provides an even better surface for the paint.
  • Paint and clear coat. Then wait a week or two and have the wheels balanced.
I used Ultra Silver on my barrels as I wanted a little brighter look.

The ugly... These were rechromed wheels. I knew it when I bought the truck, and externally they looked good and had a little oxidation in the barrels.
030CE0BD-9357-4BB2-93CF-488BB941C56C.jpeg


Rears post alodine, one with initial coat of zinc oxide primer. Both rims had visible yellow spots that doesn’t show up in the pictures.
D3CCC5D5-B656-48FC-BFEC-0887AC4D8A3D.jpeg

(Its not easy being green)

Polished, waxed and ready to go on
5D03A2BA-A049-449C-9A35-19959E4D0034.jpeg


Front wheel a few months after refurbishing:
E83571A1-7E4A-45E6-8C44-25784091E43F.jpeg
 

·
Tech Support/Research
Joined
·
1,598 Posts
Using an adhesion promoter on the bare aluminum after removing oxidation, stains, etc. also aids in achieving good results when painting wheels. I use Bulldog brand, but there are others, followed by primer and paint.


Before and after photos of a wheel restored and painted:

20160913_095513.jpg

DSCN4292.JPG
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top