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After my 2005 ssr driven and at running temp. Switch off for approximately 30 mins or more when you try attempt to start motor cranks continuously by itself. Switch ignition off then motor starts on second try. Any help????
Cranking problems
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Is this only when it is still hot? if it cools more does it start first try? if you try sooner there is no problem? Might be the Fuse Box issue, click here
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Yes only when it’s hot. Has to sit 30 mins or longer but always starts on second try. Also starts in the morning after sitting overnight
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No, not fuse box issue. Fuse box issue will prevent it from turning over, no power at all.
Sounds to me like it might be a bad fuel pump. Borrow a fuel gauge from Autozone or similar, hook it up the the fuel rail and see what pressure the system has when it will not start.
Could also be something related to ignition but I would start with checking the pump first.
Sounds to me like it might be a bad fuel pump. Borrow a fuel gauge from Autozone or similar, hook it up the the fuel rail and see what pressure the system has when it will not start.
Could also be something related to ignition but I would start with checking the pump first.
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Been to dealership and 2 mom and pop garages. Not throwing any codes so dealership can’t work on it. Had fuel pump, cam sensor, fuel vapor canister on gas tank, battery and ignition switch replaced!! Still got problem.
Thanks Mike, it's been a while since I went through that.
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Hate to disagree but, as I see it fuse box problem opens a ground to turn on relay #42. This shuts off power to injectors and ignition coils besides a few others.
See the lengthy discussion here. That did end up being a fuse box problem.
https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/hot-no-start-244109/
The first picture from Ed in FLA shows were the fuse box issue occurs. If place the "temporary fix" jumper wires in place you not only bypass possible broken wire you also bypass possible bad relay.
It is easy enough to test with a voltmeter or test light.
WHEN problem is acting up test fuses highlighted in green in second picture for voltage.
If no voltage possible bad relay or fuse box issue.
Because it is possible a relay coil resistance my be rising too much under the hot soak conditions SO If you don't have test equipment then you could always try switching relay #42 with start relay #43 - If you now have problems cranking you know its a bad relay or problem may go away.
If still there it could be defective fuel pump relay -- #44 - try switching that with another relay like #50 horn relay.
Fairly easy to rule out something simple --- KISS method
See the lengthy discussion here. That did end up being a fuse box problem.
https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/hot-no-start-244109/
The first picture from Ed in FLA shows were the fuse box issue occurs. If place the "temporary fix" jumper wires in place you not only bypass possible broken wire you also bypass possible bad relay.
It is easy enough to test with a voltmeter or test light.
WHEN problem is acting up test fuses highlighted in green in second picture for voltage.
If no voltage possible bad relay or fuse box issue.
Because it is possible a relay coil resistance my be rising too much under the hot soak conditions SO If you don't have test equipment then you could always try switching relay #42 with start relay #43 - If you now have problems cranking you know its a bad relay or problem may go away.
If still there it could be defective fuel pump relay -- #44 - try switching that with another relay like #50 horn relay.
Fairly easy to rule out something simple --- KISS method
Attachments
Do you mean when you release the key from start position, let go of the key, and the engine continues to turn over until you turn the key to off position???
Nick
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Well it is easy enough to test but I thought the fuse issue shut down the whole system as in no power to the starter......... I think I am getting confused when some people say no "crank", some mean no start and others mean no turning over, either way, I was off in my knowledge of the issue as I thought everything shut down when it occurred.
I have never had the issue, I just repair the boxes when they fail :smile2:
I have never had the issue, I just repair the boxes when they fail :smile2:
@Dragon2U, The one you did last week for my friend, Warren, the engine turned over/cranking, but would not start. My jumper solved it, so he sent it to you. ALLS GOOD now!!
Nick
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@Dragon2U, I agree that some people describe things somewhat incorrectly it makes things difficult. Also to make things worse GM cars will continue to crank for a few seconds after the key is released. Initially dealers had some complaints that the ignition was sticking. Good or bad this is normal. Once ecm sees a start signal from ignition switch it will continue to crank for I believe 10 seconds or until crank speed goes above a certain threshold. Not sure of exact length of time or crank sensor speed, maybe next time I get bored at work.
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Yes continues cranking but not starting until u switch ignition off. Switch on again and engine starts
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Okay, lemme get this straight ..... You drive the truck around to get it hot. Then leave it to go shopping or grab a brew for 30 minutes -
You attempt to start the truck by moving key to START position, let go of key and it goes to RUN position.
Starter turns engine over for a few seconds (max of 10 seconds) with hand off key but engine does not start.
After a few seconds you turn the key to OFF or does the starter continue to run as long as it is in the RUN position?
After OFF position you count to 5, move key to the START position again, starter turns over and it starts right up?
If I have that right I am still not sure of a fuse box problem since usually when it is heat soaked and the wire has separation it would take a little longer to cool down to get the contact back. But hey, they have replaced almost everything else in the system so not much left.
I charge $20 plus return shipping if you want me to do the fuse box repair, or, I can just send you some wire and you can take it apart and do it yourself if you are handy. It would be the cheapest route since you have spent all that time and money on everything else........ Tell you what, just send me the box and I will swap it out for free, just pay return shipping. Hate hearing about all that money spent on nothing :frown2:
You anywhere near Myrtle Beach, SC? I am heading there this coming week for my BD for a few days. If you are close I will repair the internal wire for you while there.
@nj6969Thanks for the feedback, glad he is back on the road!
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This is puzzling, but not unsolvable. I wish I were close enough to tackle this face to face.
If this is indeed what's happening.
I would ask you to remove and reinstall crank fuse and then start relay. If either one causes a change it will help determine if it's caused by an input or output problem.
Just have someone to help you so these steps are done quickly, don't want starter cranking too long.
Happy Birthday Mike.
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:liebe011:
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Forgot to mention crank fuse and starter relay both replaced
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They may have been replaced, but my suggestion to remove them while it was still cranking to see if removing one would cause cranking to stop will aide in diagnosis. Remove and reinstall crank fuse first then relay.
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Change Ignition switch. Check shifter to be in neutral or park. while at shifter a wire going to a shut off when parking brake is activated. I am only chiming in because I had the problem. The ignition switch is easy to change with out a tear down as well as the shifter.
Dragon2U, This made my day! Very generous and selfless of you to offer to do this work gratis!
In the words of Willy Wonka ... "so shines a good deed in a weary world". You have restored my faith in humankind.
Cheers!
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This for ur interest. Ignition switch has also been changed. Problem still exists
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