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Premium Member
2005 Slingshot Yellow
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I found a way to replace the original door checks with original parts.
Takes a bit of work, but if you are handy, you should be able to do it.

Attached is some pictures and the process.
 

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Premium Member
'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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4,497 Posts
Hmmm I was thinking there was one that interchanged without any modifications. Some Years Colorado pick up? Others will correct me.

Nick
 

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Registered
04 Black, 05 Black, 05 Aqua Blur
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3,161 Posts
I used the Colorado ones in my trucks works great. I think it was Carl who found them and suggested them. I got mine off Ebay around $22 each.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,323 Posts
Your solution works well if the unit is not broken.
both of mine were broken
Someone correct me if I am wrong here .............. a crack in the plastic as shown in the PDF images does NOT mean "broken". I think there is a metal structure in the center section of the door check that is covered by the plastic. When the plastic cracks as shown in the PDF image or is elongated, it allows movement where there should be none, thus the sound when opening the door. When you drill an oversize hole in the mount as shown by Dick, the closer tolerances once again allows the door check to operate without the popping sound. Of course the mod could wear out as well and might need replacing down the road, but all door checks should be good for at least one user modification with the hole enlargement process. Correct?






Helpful Links
Add your location on Fanatic PINMAP and locate others
SSR Technical Resource - Quick searchable help
Electronic Repairs - Speedometer, brake, door latch, fuse box, stereo
Billet letters for tailgate and under hood
 

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Premium Member
2005 Slingshot Yellow
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The arm is made of metal, covered completely with injection molded plastic, even the bore of the hole where the pin is,
is covered in plastic. It is the plastic in the bore that wears and then you get play and metal on metal, this is why it clicks. Drilling it out works fine,
but now you have metal on metal all the time.
Not everyone has to do it the same way, the article was just another method to the same end.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
Joined
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6,323 Posts
The arm is made of metal, covered completely with injection molded plastic, even the bore of the hole where the pin is,
is covered in plastic. It is the plastic in the bore that wears and then you get play and metal on metal, this is why it clicks. Drilling it out works fine,
but now you have metal on metal all the time.
Not everyone has to do it the same way, the article was just another method to the same end.

For everyone that might come across your post, I just wanted to clarify your problem, and the problem that everyone has, is not that your original part was totally "broken" and not repairable. You decided to develop an alternate repair method on your own. Your earlier statement that Dicks method would not have worked was misleading.

No worries, I did not question your method as being inferior in any way, just wanted to clear things up for those looking for answers and might have some confusion on what was being said and the source of the problem. Having more than one way to repair or replace our aging parts is always a good thing. Thanks for adding your post and providing another great idea.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
Joined
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12,786 Posts
Someone correct me if I am wrong here .............. a crack in the plastic as shown in the PDF images does NOT mean "broken". I think there is a metal structure in the center section of the door check that is covered by the plastic. When the plastic cracks as shown in the PDF image or is elongated, it allows movement where there should be none, thus the sound when opening the door. When you drill an oversize hole in the mount as shown by Dick, the closer tolerances once again allows the door check to operate without the popping sound. Of course the mod could wear out as well and might need replacing down the road, but all door checks should be good for at least one user modification with the hole enlargement process. Correct?






Helpful Links
Add your location on Fanatic PINMAP and locate others
SSR Technical Resource - Quick searchable help
Electronic Repairs - Speedometer, brake, door latch, fuse box, stereo
Billet letters for tailgate and under hood
Yes, you are right. The bolt/link is not same dimension full length, so when so called bushing wears, bolt goes "Click/Click".

Dicktator
 

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Premium Member
2006 S/C Silver & 2006 Pac Blue 6spd
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1,044 Posts
So these are plug and play no mods needed?
They work, but they are long and the detents are different allowing the door to open farther than the original checks. The hinge will eventually stop the door opening. The seal has to be trimmed quite a bit, or the check will pull the seal out of the door. I’ve swapped them back out and am testing a different check.
 

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Premium Member
2005 Ricochet Silver
Joined
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1,000 Posts
So these are plug and play no mods needed?
YES, the door checks from the 2015-2017 Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon are "plug-and-play". GM Part # 2336-0941. Remove old and install new and good-to-go. They are the same working dimensions as the OEM door checks. They are NOT longer and do NOT require trimming the seal. Door open angle is same as OEM. Mine have been installed with NO PROBLEMS and NO "CLICK-CLICK" since August 2018. Here is the link to my original post regarding the Chevy Colorado door checks.
Door Check Fix - Carl Bush
 
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