[carlbush]

Door "Click Click" - Round 2 Fix *UPDATE*!!

Hi all,

I had the dreaded door hinge "click click" when I bought my "R" in 2015. I used the method described by Dicktator in this post in order to correct the problem. That fix worked great ... up until this past week when the "click click" started up again.

The pictures below show the result of two years in a rust-inducing environment (caveat: I live near the ocean so fighting rust is an ongoing affair with all my vehicles). The "shoulder" portion of the bolt has a clear indent where the door hinge fitting made contact over the past two years. This allows enough gap for the spring portion of the hinge to "click click" again.

When I made the initial repair in 2016, the hardware store did NOT have stainless fittings, so I went with regular steel. Not the best long-term fix. Getting this (now rusted) part off was a PITA! The torx fitting of the shoulder bolt was rusted enough that it stripped out immediately and the round head made it nearly impossible to get a good grip on it ... I ended up using a small set of vise grips, but even that slipped a few times. The nut was rusted to the bolt and I had to soak it with a spray lube/anti-seize to loosen it up. Then off to the hardware store. I decided I would NOT use the same Torx-headed shoulder bolt.

This time, I found a Stainless Steel Clevis Pin (cotter bolt) of the same diameter as had been drilled out for the first fix (3/8") and 1" in length. The 3/8" diameter clevis pin is a VERY snug fit and immediately stopped the "click click". Hopefully the stainless steel will last longer than 2 years. See pics.

 

[Dicktator]

GOOD fix Carl!!

Salt water at it's best, imagine what your DOOR LATCH/LOCK MODULE looks like. Need to spray Door Lock and Latches.

It's on SSR HOW TO LIBRARY: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look up DOOR CLICK FIX.

You can use Stainless like Carl did.

Dicktator

 

[carlbush]

Door "click-click" fix #3 - new door check part#

Hi all,

Updating my most recent "click-click" fix (even though it was working fine).

I took a chance and ordered a door check for a 2015-2017 Chevrolet Colorado / GMC Canyon (GM part# 2336-0941) from eBay for just $18 (unfortunately, can't find the same seller I bought from, but others are listed for less than $20).

(eBAY LINK HERE)

I received and installed the part today and am very happy with the results. Took only about 30 minutes to install and similar enough to the SSR OEM that part fitment and door-swing opening remain the same.

See attached pics ... (pg 1 of 2)

 

[carlbush]

More pics (2 of 2)

 

[Dicktator]

Thanks Carl,

Yes they make a replacement "Door Stop". It fits many GM but I don't like to take my door panel apart if I don't have to.

And the new one will do the "click/click" in time.

I changed my Door Stop years ago and then decided it would be less expensive and less labor to install a bolt that fits and no click/click.

Plus bolt is about $5.00 instead of $20. and I don't have to take my door apart.

Good pictures.

Dicktator

 

[carlbush]

Thanks Carl,

Yes they make a replacement "Door Stop". It fits many GM but I don't like to take my door panel apart if I don't have to.

And the new one will do the "click/click" in time.

I changed my Door Stop years ago and then decided it would be less expensive and less labor to install a bolt that fits and no click/click.

Plus bolt is about $5.00 instead of $20. and I don't have to take my door apart.

Good pictures.

Dicktator

Dicktator,
Having done it both ways now, I have to respectfully disagree on the amount of "labor" required.

The "pin" fix requires grinding off and hammering out old pin; drilling out the pin receiver to an exact 3/8" inch (with even a tiny bit too large of a hole ruining the entire fix); and then sanding, painting and reinstalling the pin receiver; then putting the whole thing back together. A good couple of hours, at least, to do it properly.

In my opinion, much easier to pull the door panel (<10 minutes) and remove/reinstall three bolts (<10 minutes). Took me 30 minutes because I took photos and test fit the parts before finalizing the install.

My "pin fix" lasted only 2 years before the "click-click" came back ... and my OEM door-check was pretty much rusted out.

All new parts and 30-minutes work was well worth $20. :smile2:

 

[Shadowman]

Dicktator,
Having done it both ways now, I have to respectfully disagree on the amount of "labor" required.

The "pin" fix requires grinding off and hammering out old pin; drilling out the pin receiver to an exact 3/8" inch (with even a tiny bit too large of a hole ruining the entire fix); and then sanding, painting and reinstalling the pin receiver; then putting the whole thing back together. A good couple of hours, at least, to do it properly.

In my opinion, much easier to pull the door panel (<10 minutes) and remove/reinstall three bolts (<10 minutes). Took me 30 minutes because I took photos and test fit the parts before finalizing the install.

My "pin fix" lasted only 2 years before the "click-click" came back ... and my OEM door-check was pretty much rusted out.

All new parts and 30-minutes work was well worth $20. :smile2:

Glad to see you are taking such good care of my old baby, I miss it. :crying:Regards, JS

 

[carlbush]

Glad to see you are taking such good care of my old baby, I miss it. :crying:Regards, JS

Shadowman ! Were you the previous owner of my 2005 Ricochet Silver SSR - VIN ...116114? I bought it in Nov 2015 from Lehhman Hyundai in Miami.

 

[OH5SSR]

Thanks for the info regarding the door click. Just got the last two from that ebay listing. Not knowing the future availability, I rather have another just in case.

 

[ROPE]

Can anyone tell me what the actual diameter of the shoulder on the stock pin is?

 

[Dicktator]

Can anyone tell me what the actual diameter of the shoulder on the stock pin is?

3/8 fits in Rubber bushing just fine.

On HOW TO LIBRARY: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

 

[ROPE]

3/8 fits in Rubber bushing just fine.

On HOW TO LIBRARY: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

Dick

I understand it’s 3/8” after drilling out the bracket, however what is the original diameter prior to drilling it?

 

[Dicktator]

Dick

I understand it’s 3/8” after drilling out the bracket, however what is the original diameter prior to drilling it?

My Micrometer reads 0.317

3.8 = 0.375

Shaft length is 0.424 lower shaft is 0.120

It is being pressed into rubber bushing.

Not sure .58th will make difference unless you are going to make some, that would be great.

Dicktator

 

[ROPE]

My Micrometer reads 0.317

3.8 = 0.375

Shaft length is 0.424 lower shaft is 0.120

It is being pressed into rubber bushing.

Not sure .58th will make difference unless you are going to make some, that would be great.

Dicktator

Great, my thought is to get a standard 18-8 SS Shoulder Bolt 5/16” (.3125) with either a 1/2” or 5/8” length then the bracket wouldn’t have to be drilled out just replace the pin. What do you think?

 

[nj6969]

Hmmm. That is pretty dang close! considering a pressed fit!

Nick

 

[Stlhotrod]

My door was driving me crazy, I was going to be changing the door pulls anyway and would have most of it unbolted so I went the route Carl suggested. It was an easy fix and quick. these little things and easy fixes are so enjoyable to get something crossed off the list. I ordered one off Ebay and got it in 2 days. One less part on my desk as well. Thank you Carl for the tip.

 

[carlbush]

Great, my thought is to get a standard 18-8 SS Shoulder Bolt 5/16” (.3125) with either a 1/2” or 5/8” length then the bracket wouldn’t have to be drilled out just replace the pin. What do you think?

Check my math, but if the OEM opening is 0.317, and you replace with a 0.3125 diameter pin, you are still 0.0045 smaller than the opening ... meaning .0045 gap ... would that small a gap still allow the "click-click"? Of course, that is only in a perfect world, there is likely enough imperfection on both ends to ensure no movement. Looking forward to your results.

 

[TXNSSR]

Great, my thought is to get a standard 18-8 SS Shoulder Bolt 5/16” (.3125) with either a 1/2” or 5/8” length then the bracket wouldn’t have to be drilled out just replace the pin. What do you think?

I look forward to your results too