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Discussion Starter #1
@Dragon2U @autoprof @ED in FL @river rat

My driver side door lock does not respond to any electrical stimuli, like, taking the key out after driving, the console lock button or the key FOB.

I took out the locking mechanism and sent it to Dragon, it checks okay. Now that the weather is getting colder, I'm doing some inside projects. The passenger door responds to everything like it should.

Here's my question. Are there wires, or connectors that I can check with a probe to help narrow down the source of the problem? Is there a fuse just for that door?

I think if I put the "@" symbol in front of a user name it gives them a notification. That is why the names are at the top of this thread. From the couple of years I have been on this thread those name seem, to me, to be the most likely to be able to answer this question. Oh yeah, I forgot mike and dicktator. Most of all that is just a guess on my part.
 

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Sounds like you have a broken wire where the wire harness passes though the door into the truck.
The constant flexing every time you open and close the door causes the wires to break
The door lock motors are a dc reversible motor - when you reverse the power and ground the motor spins opposite direction. With the tan wire + gray wire - lock spins unlock // reverse tan wire -, gray wire + lock spins other direction door locks. If either wire is broken neither will operate.

You can test this with your test light to be sure --- both wires at the door latch are grounded in the neutral position (not trying to lock or unlock). Connect your test light alligator clip to a good POWER supply. To Confirm you have a good power connection when you place the probe (pointy side) of the light to something grounded (bolt under dash or inside door (not painted) the light should come on. Now unplug the connector on the door latch (the two wire one WITHOUT a black wire) then touch the probe against each of the two wires -- should light on both sides. the side that does not come on has a problem. The next connection is connector C501 (a 10 cavity connector behind the drivers side kick panel) test the same wires terminals E and F at that location (female side terminal should go into door // male side is harness side and should be tested) If test light lights in car but not at door latch, the wire is broken.

You can sometimes find it with a good tug on each wire near the door hinge and forget the testing, or try both.

Pictures #1 simplified wiring diagram
#2 OEM digram
#3 C501 diagram

If you do find a broken wire --- tug on all of them -- best to find a marginal one now -- and don't try to splice the break - pull wire into car splice a new piece of wire then push new piece into door and splice to door harness.

If your test results show different post your results in detail.
Best of luck - I hope it helps -- might not be able to respond until much later
I am heading out from school - then meeting my wife for happy hour and dinner

Its our 26th anniversary today! I did send flowers already
 

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Door Lock Drivers Side

I had the same problem several years ago after I replaced my radio amp.

Everything checked out fine, solenoid, wiring, fuses. Finally took it to the dealer. They reflashed the BCM memory and the lock came back to life. $125 but worth it. It was making me crazy.

I answered this on an August 2016 post on the same topic.

Skip
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had the same problem several years ago after I replaced my radio amp.

Everything checked out fine, solenoid, wiring, fuses. Finally took it to the dealer. They reflashed the BCM memory and the lock came back to life. $125 but worth it. It was making me crazy.

I answered this on an August 2016 post on the same topic.

Skip
Thanks for answering again. In August I was researching the project, gathering useful information. In November, I'm plan to put that information to use. I may have said back then that we have no new car dealerships here and I have to drive an hour to an hour and a half to get to one. If the broken wire search doesn't solve the problem, I'll certainly plan a trip to town.

Thanks for sticking with me.
 

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Important additional information. I thought of driving to meet my wife.
With your test light connected to a power supply DO NOT test other circuits in this fashion.

Alternate test would be to connect alligator clip to good ground and check for a light one each wire while operating lock switch in both directions. Each wire should light the test light in only one position. Gray unlock and tan lock // or gray lock and tan unlock.

Best of luck and let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Important additional information. I thought of driving to meet my wife.
With your test light connected to a power supply DO NOT test other circuits in this fashion.

Alternate test would be to connect alligator clip to good ground and check for a light one each wire while operating lock switch in both directions. Each wire should light the test light in only one position. Gray unlock and tan lock // or gray lock and tan unlock.

Best of luck and let us know.
Thanks, It may be Sunday or Monday before I get a chance to work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Important additional information. I thought of driving to meet my wife.
With your test light connected to a power supply DO NOT test other circuits in this fashion.

Alternate test would be to connect alligator clip to good ground and check for a light one each wire while operating lock switch in both directions. Each wire should light the test light in only one position. Gray unlock and tan lock // or gray lock and tan unlock.

Best of luck and let us know.
It is the brown wire, no action with the test light. Moving on to the next piece to test. The part behind the driver side kick panel.
If that is it I have pictured below, there is very little flexibility in that wire. Also I can not get the kick panel all the way off, so there is very little space to work there.

I hope you had a great meal and happy anniversary. When you get a chance I could use some advice on kick panel removal and how to access the module, or someone else will do, if they happen by here.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is the brown wire, no action with the test light. Moving on to the next piece to test. The part behind the driver side kick panel.
If that is it I have pictured below, there is very little flexibility in that wire. Also I can not get the kick panel all the way off, so there is very little space to work there.

I hope you had a great meal and happy anniversary. When you get a chance I could use some advice on kick panel removal and how to access the module, or someone else will do, if they happen by here.
Could not get image attached as an edit, so here it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It was the smaller blue connector in the picture above. I was able to take it off of the panel and the shape matched the one in the diagram from post 2 above.

I tested E and F and one did not activate the light in the probe. So, my problem is from the kick panel forward. Maybe time for "reflashed the BCM memory" procedure.
 

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PM sent.
First procedure tests integrity of wiring and neutral position of the relays.
If it fails this test the computer has no involvement. This is why I suggested a method with the key off.
I want to help, doing what I can long distance.
 

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OK, My wife is in bed sick so I decided to look further into your problem tonight.
Because your previous problem was caused by an abnormal relay failure I decided that this one could possible be the same. If this works I need to head straight to the casino.
Relays do not normally fail in this fashion but here goes.

It is possible (highly unlikely) that your driver door unlock relay has failed on the switched side of the circuit. That could cause an open circuit in both the energized and DE-energized positions. The switched side provides both the ground (de-energized) and the power (energized) to the tan wire depending on if the relay is at rest (de-energized) or activated (energized). It is located in the REAR RELAY BOX near the RDM.(NOT the rear fuse box) See picture #1 and The one drive from the ultimate Dictator

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5&id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!1049&parId=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&o=OneUp

You can try replacing this relay with the unlock relay (relay #24) located in the rear fuse box (picture #2). DO NOT SWITCH with relay #18 "lock relay". It is possible that relay #30 park lamp relay or relay #45 rear defrost relay would also work. The wiring diagram shows these as 4 terminal relays and the driver unlock relay is a 5 terminal relay -- it is imperative that the correct relay be used as a substitution. If the driver driver door unlock relay failed and you replace it with relay #24 then the driver door should work normally however the passenger door will probably not unlock. If you replace replace the driver door unlock relay with park lamp or defrost relay (provided the same part#) both door locks will function normally if driver door unlock relay is defective.

Again this is not the normal way relays fail but, what the heck your previous relay failure did not follow normality either. This is also not that hard of a guess.

I hate to teach guessing. Long distance it is probably more efficient. Just swear nobody ever tells my students that I told you to test by replacing with a know good unit.

If this doesn't work we have learned a little and you out a little time but no money. Please respond with the detailed results of tests previously mentioned.
"Failure is an opportunity to begin again with more knowledge"

If this does work I am gong to play the lotto, however this relay does not have a number so I wouldn't know what to bet?

I believe that between all of us if you have patience, you will get this resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, My wife is in bed sick so I decided to look further into your problem tonight.
Because your previous problem was caused by an abnormal relay failure I decided that this one could possible be the same. If this works I need to head straight to the casino.
Relays do not normally fail in this fashion but here goes.

It is possible (highly unlikely) that your driver door unlock relay has failed on the switched side of the circuit. That could cause an open circuit in both the energized and DE-energized positions. The switched side provides both the ground (de-energized) and the power (energized) to the tan wire depending on if the relay is at rest (de-energized) or activated (energized). It is located in the REAR RELAY BOX near the RDM.(NOT the rear fuse box) See picture #1 and The one drive from the ultimate Dictator

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5&id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!1049&parId=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&o=OneUp

You can try replacing this relay with the unlock relay (relay #24) located in the rear fuse box (picture #2). DO NOT SWITCH with relay #18 "lock relay". It is possible that relay #30 park lamp relay or relay #45 rear defrost relay would also work. The wiring diagram shows these as 4 terminal relays and the driver unlock relay is a 5 terminal relay -- it is imperative that the correct relay be used as a substitution. If the driver driver door unlock relay failed and you replace it with relay #24 then the driver door should work normally however the passenger door will probably not unlock. If you replace replace the driver door unlock relay with park lamp or defrost relay (provided the same part#) both door locks will function normally if driver door unlock relay is defective.

Again this is not the normal way relays fail but, what the heck your previous relay failure did not follow normality either. This is also not that hard of a guess.

I hate to teach guessing. Long distance it is probably more efficient. Just swear nobody ever tells my students that I told you to test by replacing with a know good unit.

If this doesn't work we have learned a little and you out a little time but no money. Please respond with the detailed results of tests previously mentioned.
"Failure is an opportunity to begin again with more knowledge"

If this does work I am gong to play the lotto, however this relay does not have a number so I wouldn't know what to bet?

I believe that between all of us if you have patience, you will get this resolved.
Well, when the wife gets well, I think I owe you two a dinner.

I changed the relays like you suggested. Well not exactly. ( didn't exchange them) I took 24 out and put in place of the first one in the rear relay box. The driver door lock worked. I then thought I had not tested the relay I took out because it was laying on the seat. I put it back where 24 came from and BOTH worked. But only one time. For several times after that, only the driver side worked. I'll get a new one for 24.

Speaking of relays, when I first got the truck, the bed quit unlatching. I replaced the actuator but I had to replace the relay under the hood.

As you know, I just last month had to replace a relay because the engine would turn over but not start.

And now this relay.:frown2:

Terrific analyzing, and thinking.

Thanks so much.:hyper::cheers
 

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Just to be sure: The new relay is going in slot #24 and is replacing the relay that was in the rear relay box.! Personally I might put the newest one in the place that's hardest to access. Unless it's all back together.

I enjoy a good puzzle and you have provided us with two good ones.

I use your previous one as an example to show the importance of testing fuses with a test light or voltmeter. It is quicker, more accurate and will provide additional valuable information if used correctly.

I glad it's fixed.:banana

They say things happen in threes, so including your lid actuator problem. It's 3 problems caused by relays. I hope you have gotten rid of your bad case of relaytitus.

Dinner is not necessary, a cold one in Maggie Valley would be great, if we can both make this year.:cheers
 

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autoprof---wolfpacker, You 2 did a great job working together to solve that!!! (man, thats a lot of typing and research!) Don't forget to thank Mrs. autoprof for providing time for him to think on the solutions longer! And hope she feels better soon!

Nick
 

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autoprof---wolfpacker, You 2 did a great job working together to solve that!!! (man, thats a lot of typing and research!) Don't forget to thank Mrs. autoprof for providing time for him to think on the solutions longer! And hope she feels better soon!

Nick
Mrs autoprof is doing better, urgent care said upper respiratory and sinus infections. Meds to make her feel better. Thanks for the concern.:smile2:

Regarding my time, she likes it when I get involved in a research/repair. She knows I'm in my home office and not somewhere else getting in trouble.

Wolfpacker may claim he's a carpenter and has no automotive skills, but he has caught on well to electrical diagnosis. Heck a couple a weeks ago he didn't know what a test light was. He owned one but didn't know what it was called. Hey wolfpacker you rock. :rock: I wish all my students could do so well. Unfortunately there are still people out there that think if you can't do well in school you can always be an auto technician. :crazy
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mrs autoprof is doing better, urgent care said upper respiratory and sinus infections. Meds to make her feel better. Thanks for the concern.:smile2:

Regarding my time, she likes it when I get involved in a research/repair. She knows I'm in my home office and not somewhere else getting in trouble.

Wolfpacker may claim he's a carpenter and has no automotive skills, but he has caught on well to electrical diagnosis. Heck a couple a weeks ago he didn't know what a test light was. He owned one but didn't know what it was called. Hey wolfpacker you rock. :rock: I wish all my students could do so well. Unfortunately there are still people out there that think if you can't do well in school you can always be an auto technician. :crazy

I do like how you break it down now(that you have pegged my level) like " use the probe-the pointy side of the test light"
You never know what someone doesn't know. But I have that covered now.:grin2:

And, oh I'll be back with another question around Christmas, holding on another problem.

Maybe we should start a blog...>:)
 

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Uatoprof

Great going there Autoprof. As an auto tech myself, these new cars are a real challenge. It used to take 5 minutes to diagnose, and 5 hours to fix. Now the tables have turned 180* in time.
I always tell professional folks that belittle mechanics and techs "when you break down on the road, you will be glad when a redneck pulls up to help".
My best tech, with me for 29 years, just chuckles when people say "it should not take you very long to fix". He hands the keys back and says "well then, have at it, let me know how it goes". They usually hand the keys right back.
By the way, nice to be part of the greatest forum in the nation.
 

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Autoprof

Oh, by the way Autoprof, using a good known part to diagnose a problem also saves time and wear and tear on the mind. At my shop, we have piles of known good parts taken from cars that were being scrapped or junked. It can make a difference in productivity. Dad used to say "use all of your resources, even if it is called cheating. You all get the meaning.
 
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