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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to post this as a separate thread.

I am thinking about new drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from Rotopro. I thought the "upgraded" rotors improved stopping and heat dissipation. But I am finding on the internet that in one "test" the slotted and drilled rotor got hotter than the OEM in aggressive use. I also understand that the drilled are "no no" because of possible increase in cracking. I asked one very knowledgeable person what his opinion was of them. He said they were very pretty. That if I wanted to add bling to the truck I could save my old ones as a replacement.

One thing that got my attention was a statement by RotoPro that they Warranted their slotted rotors for cracking for 2 years. Cracking? 2 years?

Any good/bad stories about drilled/slotted rotors? I am thinking of putting them on for Bling.
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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I decided to post this as a separate thread.

I am thinking about new drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from Rotopro. I thought the "upgraded" rotors improved stopping and heat dissipation. But I am finding on the internet that in one "test" the slotted and drilled rotor got hotter than the OEM in aggressive use. I also understand that the drilled are "no no" because of possible increase in cracking. I asked one very knowledgeable person what his opinion was of them. He said they were very pretty. That if I wanted to add bling to the truck I could save my old ones as a replacement.

One thing that got my attention was a statement by RotoPro that they Warranted their slotted rotors for cracking for 2 years. Cracking? 2 years?

Any good/bad stories about drilled/slotted rotors? I am thinking of putting them on for Bling.
If you put them on for BLING what do you use for stopping or where do you put them if they are not for stopping?
Is that question really as dumb as it sounds when I read it back? :banghead
 

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I decided to post this as a separate thread.

I am thinking about new drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from Rotopro. I thought the "upgraded" rotors improved stopping and heat dissipation. But I am finding on the internet that in one "test" the slotted and drilled rotor got hotter than the OEM in aggressive use. I also understand that the drilled are "no no" because of possible increase in cracking. I asked one very knowledgeable person what his opinion was of them. He said they were very pretty. That if I wanted to add bling to the truck I could save my old ones as a replacement.

One thing that got my attention was a statement by RotoPro that they Warranted their slotted rotors for cracking for 2 years. Cracking? 2 years?

Any good/bad stories about drilled/slotted rotors? I am thinking of putting them on for Bling.
I first bought Rotorpros rotors and pads for my 03 SSR. I was surprised to see that they carried the same part number in the casting as the stock rotor, but they cost me significantly less than the GM part, even with the drilling, slotting, zinc plating and painting.

Those rotors are still on the 2003 with no issues. I bought another set in early 06 for my current truck. Those have been on for 12 years, still look good, no issues at all, roughly 35000 miles on them.

I bought a set of Rotorpros for my wife's Caddy SRX in 2008. Not much mileage on those, but they are still looking fresh.

I towed lots of boats as a boat dealer, and when I needed new rotors at 50k miles on my 2010 Chev 1500 Crewcab, bought a set of drilled and slotted Rotorpros instead of the stock GM part. The price difference was ridiculous. I replaced those this spring after another 50k miles of year round mountain driving, much of it with a boat in tow, with another set of drilled and slotted Rotorpros. The old rotors were worn down, but no pulsing from any warping, and no signs of any damage or cracking.

No question they look much better than the stock rotors on all the vehicles, but I have never had a performance issue with any of the sets. You can have great braking, and enjoy the bling as well.

On another note, I saw a new 911 in a Porsche showroom recently, and pointed out to the salesman that the drilled rotors were cracked on a fresh, new car. No doubt those were extremely dangerous. By comparison, the Rotorpros product was much better. The drilling on the 911 was not countersunk. The Rotorpros are. I suspect the rotors on the 911 were from a Porsche performance supplier, not stock parts.
 
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I have EBC slotted rotors on my R for two years and they stop really really REALLY good with no problems. They don't have holes, only slots, work great. I also have EBC's on my Tahoe, no slots, they work great too. I think the whole idea of the slots and holes was to dissipate heat on race cars under heavy breaking for long periods of time under racing conditions and our trucks don't get into that kind of environment. Even if you go slalom racing, you still only do maybe one lap to run the course and then your timed lap and if your breaks fade during or after that then you have bigger problems then just the heat issue. Of course most of the time I don't have a clue and this is probably one of those times. So my 2 cents worth will come up short of 2 cents.
 

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I put RotorPros on my Mini Cooper S 5 years ago. No issues and big improvement on hard stopping in heavy traffic.
 

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I just ordered a set from rotopro. They have a Labor Day special going on.$100.00 off. Made it $260.00 shipped for the zinc plated and ceramic pads. Not bad at all.
 

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Dave, the ceramic pads that come with those are garbage, throw them away when and buy GM Delco Pads. I installed them on mine when I changed the rotors and the brakes were so bad I was afraid to drive it. I had just flushed the fluid and thought I had air in the system. After bleeding several times no improvement. I pulled on. E of the front calipers and the pads were slick and shiny. I stopped up to a local brake shop and they recommended AC Delco pads. They said those free pads they throw in with the package are junk.
I bought Delcos at Napa and after install again it stops like new. When I installed those rotors on y corvette I did not get pads so bought Wagner’s at the local parts store. I thought they were OK until I had to change them and put Delco pads on. A huge improvement! I’m sticking with Delco pads now on my GM vehicles.
Curious if anyone else had similar issues?
Greg
 

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Thanks for the heads up. Anyone else have problems with the pads?
 

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I think the whole idea of the slots and holes was to dissipate heat on race cars under heavy breaking for long periods of time under racing conditions and our trucks don't get into that kind of environment. Even if you go slalom racing, you still only do maybe one lap to run the course and then your timed lap and if your breaks fade during or after that then you have bigger problems then just the heat issue. Of course most of the time I don't have a clue and this is probably one of those times. So my 2 cents worth will come up short of 2 cents.
The reason race cars started using drilled and slotted rotors is not for cooling, but for pad gassing under heavy use. Without the holes or slots the gas had no place to go and would cause severe brake fade. Not good under racing conditions. Street vehicles seldom run into pad gassing issues, but it is always good to upgrade your brakes.

Personaly I have on my R Bosch quite cast rotors and Performance Friction carbon ceramic pads. Very noticeable increase in braking performance.
 

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I decided to post this as a separate thread.

I am thinking about new drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from Rotopro. I thought the "upgraded" rotors improved stopping and heat dissipation. But I am finding on the internet that in one "test" the slotted and drilled rotor got hotter than the OEM in aggressive use. I also understand that the drilled are "no no" because of possible increase in cracking. I asked one very knowledgeable person what his opinion was of them. He said they were very pretty. That if I wanted to add bling to the truck I could save my old ones as a replacement.

One thing that got my attention was a statement by RotoPro that they Warranted their slotted rotors for cracking for 2 years. Cracking? 2 years?

Any good/bad stories about drilled/slotted rotors? I am thinking of putting them on for Bling.
Jack

Here’s a link to the drilled and slotted rotors I’ve got on mine and I have used them on several vehicles. They use a patented drilling process that helps eliminate the potential to warp and crack.

https://www.sp-performance.com/Drilled-and-Slotted-Rotors-s/148.htm
 

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Check on the rotors to see if they can be turned if needed to be turned. A friend put some on an HHR and they were not able to be turned due to the drilled holes he was told.
 

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Check on the rotors to see if they can be turned if needed to be turned. A friend put some on an HHR and they were not able to be turned due to the drilled holes he was told.
I think there would be a problem turning a drilled/slotted rotor, because the lathe would likely eliminate the countersinking, which in turn would weaken the rotors. The slotting would either be much shallower, or eliminated.

At the price of the aftermarket rotors from Rotorpros, replacing them with new was cheaper than having a brake shop turn the existing rotors.

I have always used the ceramic pads that came with the rotors, and so far, no issue that I am aware of. I will take note of Rope's recommendation to go with AC Delco pads.
 

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Are your current rotors causing an issue?
I know the holes look cool, but hey suse - what is working - stick with it
As I understand it, normal driving conditions the solid rotors perform better - stress conditions the slotted are better
Our OEM wheels cover much of the space visually
If you have custom wheels that give high exposure, I guess I would think about it
Better ways to spend money IMO
 

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Are your current rotors causing an issue?
I know the holes look cool, but hey suse - what is working - stick with it
As I understand it, normal driving conditions the solid rotors perform better - stress conditions the slotted are better
Our OEM wheels cover much of the space visually
If you have custom wheels that give high exposure, I guess I would think about it
Better ways to spend money IMO
Couldn't agree more with Cash.
Racing improves the breed, it has given us many improved items for performance and safety. I raced open class motorcycles on closed road course for a number of years and drilled discs were preferable for a few of reason, three in particular. Venting of gas expansion, rapid cooling, and less unsprung weight. This is also an important consideration with race cars. we've likely all admired race vehicles, they look cool and also look purpose built. Unless your into some kind of club racing or have some help with sponsorship expect a lot of these race applications adopted for the street to have less durability over time from stock, with some exceptions of course. My "R" is stock and I am very impressed with the brakes performance for a vehicle that is close to 5,000 lbs. :amen:
 

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:agree with everything that's been said..... But ....
Cause and Effect, prevail. Each rotor has been created for just ONE purpose each. They All have an application that they excel in. Question IS... What's in Your Right Foot !!! Bling cost a Lot of $... (i have a wife)... HOW you drive, or, Don't drive, governs the Spending Factor, Not Bling. If you Show it Only, go for the Bling. If you Drive it, get the Best parts for your Track. If you Trailor it, Gold Plate it..... it won't wear off anyways.... :grin2:
 

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Yes I did. Just finished putting them on. Look good. Ordered them on the 19th and received them on the 25th.Good pads too.
:|

Man, I cannot argue that they "look good". But that (good look) is ONLY apparent by a very close observation at (maybe) a car show where the thing is absolutely not moving.

Picture number three shows that in spades. You gotta look real close to even notice the holes and/or slots.

Good for you, but I for one will spend money on "bling" in other areas.

I might add for comment.......I'm pretty much not at all familiar with brake "fade" on disc brakes. I AM in fact VERY familiar with brake fade on old drum brakes and could relate a few scary situations.

The only time I felt disc brakes were not adequate was on a 1982 Mazda RX7 that my wife owned. It was a cool car, but the rotors were not large enough to give the braking power that one would expect.........found that out on multiple occassions.:surprise:
 

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Well I guess that's why they make so many different parts for every car and truck.I did research and found more good reviews on them than the few bad ones.My old rotors were grooved pretty bad.Someone had put new pads on and didn't turn the rotors.The pads were grooved and was starting to pulse a little.The stock GM rotors wer just about the same money and pad were pretty stout too.They had a $100.00 off sale and I bought them and just finished the install this afternoon.Drove about 20 miles and did notice a much improved stopping with no noise and no more pulsing.I do like the looks of them and the stop.Not much more can be asked of them.As far a turning the Rotopros that's a mute point to me.In all my years of vehicle ownership,I can only remember turning rotors twice.Once was two years ago on my Ram 3500.I ended up putting new rotors on after one trip to Idaho last year.They just didn't seem to want to stop the truck and 5th wheel.Put new rotor on in Mountain Home and drove home with no problems.To each their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Stock wheels.

After going out and looking closely at my stock wheels I think I would have to have a flash light to see the slots and drilled spots. So... Bling looks good on custom wheels but doesn't show up much on stock wheels.

I agree, more Bling somewhere else, Mike when will we see the Nurf Bars?

Jack
 
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