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ChriSSR
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2003 SSR. Bought last fall. Driver Information Center doesn't work for all functions. Any ideas?

1) Working: Boots up. Recognizes the fob. Trip odometers work and reset to 0 miles. Timer works. Fuel economy calculations display.

2) Not working:
a) Range: No number displayed. Sender?
b) Oil life: Hit select. 88% goes to blank. Cycle back thru and 88% again.
c) Personalization like headlight delay, seat, locking, feedback all act the same. Hit select
and current selection goes blank. Can't toggle through the options. Cycle back thru the
menu and the original selection is the choice again.
 

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Premium Member
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19,882 Posts
Ok guys I do it sounds like you DIC is broke . But I’m sure somebody will know how to fix . Contact Dictator or Ed Borland on forum
 

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Tech Support/Research
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1,732 Posts
DIC Issues

A few questions might help us better understand the problem:

1. Did these issues just occur or has the DIC acted this way since last Fall?
2. Are any one or more of these issues recent, i.e., have any of the specific functions recently started acting up or have all been unchanged since last Fall?
3. Have you changed any components on the truck in any of these systems, which could impact the settings and personalization features?
-the ECM or PCM, which feed info on the oil life monitor to the cluster
-door locks or window components (impacts door locking personalization)
-air bag or steering wheel (impacts the switches)
-lighting system (impacts the light personalization)
-instrument panel (disassembly could have disturbed an electrical connection)
-seats
4. Did anything very unusual happen, e.g. rainstorm with a window left open, that could have introduced moisture into the steering wheel switches or instrument panel? The latter is a stretch but an example of something seemingly unrelated that could be...

There are many functions for which the cluster acts as a monitor and display unit, as opposed to being a control unit. But as a first step, I recommend checking for loose or broken connections at the top of the cluster. Even though the connector has a locking clip, it should be checked to rule out breaks in electrical connections to the DIC.
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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10,183 Posts
It is noteworthy that the ground for the cluster is connected to the “downward facing” stud above the power brake booster. It’s not likely the problem, but you could check it off the list of suspects pretty easily.

Other than that, I would suspect the cluster has a messed up microprocessor.....

My two cents,

Mike
 

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ChriSSR
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The truck had the issue when purchased so I don't have any history on when it first started. Recently swapped the ignition switch but haven't done any other mods that affect the electricals. Will check the ground for the IP. The only other issue which may be a clue is that there is a hard parasitic battery drain that will kill the truck by day 3 or 4 without running it. When I get a helper, I will hook up the amp meter and start pulling fuses to isolate. Until then, using the battery tender. Love the truck!
 

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Premium Member
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3,052 Posts
The truck had the issue when purchased so I don't have any history on when it first started. Recently swapped the ignition switch but haven't done any other mods that affect the electricals. Will check the ground for the IP. The only other issue which may be a clue is that there is a hard parasitic battery drain that will kill the truck by day 3 or 4 without running it. When I get a helper, I will hook up the amp meter and start pulling fuses to isolate. Until then, using the battery tender. Love the truck!
Careful on some models when you remove a fuse for a module (computer) and then plug the fuse back in it will "wake up" the module and create its own parasitic draw. Some of today's cars require that you allow an excess of 2 hours for all modules to power down - then whenever you create an open circuit and then close the circuit (example - disconnect the battery and then connect an ammeter in series) some modules will wake-up and then they will draw current until they power down again.

A better way to find a parasitic draw is to use a milli-voltmeter and measure voltage drop across the fuse. If the circuit is on there will be current flowing, IF THERE IS CURRENT FLOW THERE WILL BE VOLTAGE DROP across the fuse.
Voltage drop (millivolts) = Current flow
no (ZERO) voltage drop = No (ZERO) current

Here are two videos I encourage my students to watch after a demonstration on a lab car with the dome lights on.


https://youtu.be/P-wxG6U5TuY

https://youtu.be/RAos-qlYUos (only the real dedicated students will watch this one - over an hour long!)

I have also used a thermal imaging camera on the fuse boxes ---works even quicker. Voltage drop creates energy (heat energy). Hot fuses (cannot feel it - thus thermal imaging) = circuit with current flow
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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12,937 Posts
The truck had the issue when purchased so I don't have any history on when it first started. Recently swapped the ignition switch but haven't done any other mods that affect the electricals. Will check the ground for the IP. The only other issue which may be a clue is that there is a hard parasitic battery drain that will kill the truck by day 3 or 4 without running it. When I get a helper, I will hook up the amp meter and start pulling fuses to isolate. Until then, using the battery tender. Love the truck!
May want to do some reading: Check Cluster Ground.

SSR How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Ed Borland is in Michigan for the summer, contact him. PM Site Name ED in Fl

Edwin Borland
[email protected]

He can help you, our Electric Guru.


Dicktator
 

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ChriSSR
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for advice so far. Check grounds, no help. Will email Ed. This is what I did this morning.
1) Amp meter between battery and SSR. Open the doors. 2.7A at zero time. .938A at 15 secs, 1 minute, 5 minute. (Interior light still on)
2) Amp meter between battery & SSR. Latch doors. 2.7A at zero time. .481A at 30 secs, .429A at 40 secs, 2 minutes.
3) Voltage drop test on all fuses. All zero except Fuse 10 in underhood block. 3.1mV drop steady. The fuse chart for 10 Amp fuse reads .418A. (Fuse 10 is labeled IPC/IDC)

My conclusion is the drain is on this circuit and may be related to the mulfunctioning DIC.

Had one other thought: Started truck, scrolled DIC to display off, turned off truck, check same Fuse 10, result=no difference.

What's next?
 

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Premium Member
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3,052 Posts
CPFriend
Good job finding battery drain - the voltage drop procedure WORKs! A little easier also
Fuse #10 is the constant 12v feed to IPC, fuse #9 (IGN E) is 12 volts start/run to IPC --
Just because you turned the display off == the module (IPC/ DIC ) is still awake

Do other functions of the DIC appear to work -- door ajar warning, cargo cover open warning (you know if you try to lower top with cargo cover open)? What happen when you press the button on IPC with everything off - does the odometer display

I myself would plug in my tech 2 and ping modules and then also check input from steering wheel controls.

Because you probably do not have a tech 2 - I might suggest unplugging the steering wheel switch to see if drain goes away.
I don't know if a switch is stuck closed how it would behave. I know the DIC would act funky - but would this prevent the module from going to sleep? That I don't know. The left steering wheel switches are each wired directly to the IPC and ground a circuit to create a request. IT IS Not information that is sent on the serial data line for the DIC. Should be able to remove driver airbag to gain access to the connector for both left and right switches -

I will try to hold a switch down and then test voltage drop fuse 10 after dinner tonight? -- Although my arms aren't long enough, I have painters tape!

I am really kind of onboard with your and Mike's thoughts -- Bad DIC processor in IPC -- But I would want to rule out something simpler, easier and cheaper first. Because switches and DIC are not playing together nicely I would want to see if switches are behaving before i replace anything. I would really really like to see the signals with a tech 2.

If switch test proves not to help, Maybe someone has an 04 or 03 IPC you could plug in to test --- drain and function of switches
 

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Premium Member
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I had additional thoughts to test switches.
If switch connector under air is disconnected. You can check wires going to switches for resistance to ground, all eight should read O.L.
You can also test the circuit if no switches prove to be shorted. The wires from the steering column should have voltage with switches unplugged. I am not sure if they work on 12 volts or a 5 volt reference. But should have the same on switches to IPC. Beware The radio switches May operate on a different voltage. I am between home and work and cannot access diagram to give you the colors of the 4 wires to IPC.
These tests could replace watching inputs on tech 2.
Hope you can follow this sorry I can't provide diagrams with test points like I normally like to.

Best of luck, let us know what you find. You've done great so far!
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,366 Posts
Nice troubleshooting tips there Autoprof!!!!!

Sounds like a bad DIC. If you send it out to a rebuild facility they may or may not be able to repair it depending on what component is bad. I have repaired speedos where the DIC is totally out but not with partial problems as you describe.
 

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ChriSSR
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks all. Won't be able to check switches until Sunday.

From Autoprof:
Do other functions of the DIC appear to work -- door ajar warning, cargo cover open warning (you know if you try to lower top with cargo cover open)? What happen when you press the button on IPC with everything off - does the odometer display

Results:
1) LH & RH "Door Ajar" warning displays.
2) Don't get a cargo opening warning but top will not retract with cargo opening up.
3) Push button with power off displays odometer as it should. Times out and goes back to blank.

Ed Borland suggested switching a spare IPC which I don't have. Would a UPICK Trailblazer IPC tell me the same thing?
 

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Premium Member
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So I taped one of the switches down. Checked voltage drop at #10. Went from 3.3mV to 0.0mV after a few minutes.
I would now agree IPC.
Hey what the heck did we have to lose.
I learned that input from the switches will not prevent the module from powering down.
 

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ChriSSR
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Autoprof. Thanks for those test results.

Any recommendations for an IPC shop. I see there is a whole bunch of options.
 

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Tech Support/Research
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1,732 Posts
Instrument Cluster

Autoprof. Thanks for those test results.

Any recommendations for an IPC shop. I see there is a whole bunch of options.
I have no specific shop recommendations but as suggested by Dragon2U, ask if the repair facility can do more than just replace the stepper motors; ask specifically if they can troubleshoot and repair the logic board within the cluster.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,366 Posts
Any recommendations for an IPC shop. I see there is a whole bunch of options.
You show you are in MI but not where, this looks like a promising shop that is in MI that looks like it might be able to assist you. I see other shops but they are mostly just stepper motor replacement or vintage gauge places.

Dash Doctor Grand Rapids, MI 49504

From reading about similar issues on other GM forums it might be related to the power supply. Some people have had success with reflowing some of the solder joints in the power supply area of the gauge. If you have a temperature controlled iron this might be quick and cheap way to see if it works. If you don't have one I and many other people here offer repairs and could do it for you. Other solutions were to replace diodes with ones that were of different values to allow more power to flow through the PS system. Keep your eye on the for sale sites as sometimes you can find a used cluster cheap and would only need to have the mileage transferred.
 

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ChriSSR
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Dragon2U. Nice find and about an hour away. Website says one day service. Will pull IPC and run over to Grand Rapids Monday. I will let everyone know the results.
 

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Premium Member
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We’re they able to repair?
I believe the place in grand rapids WAS NOT able to totally fix the DIC.
See this thread

A later thread revealed that he had to send the one he already had repaired in as a core to the place that ultimately fixed the problem
See this thread

I hope these help, if anymore questions - ASK! someone will be glad to assist you
 

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ChriSSR
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Autoprof's conclusion is correct. The Dash Doctor did NOT help on this issue and I wasted my money with him. I ended up purchasing a rebuilt IPC off ebay from Digital Dash Solutions for about $200 exchanged. They programmed the milage before shipping to me. It fixed the DIC and parasitic drain issues so I was happy-happy!
 
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