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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I didn't like my "logic" transfer fix. So I decided to keep it simple. It seems to me that the ONLY reason GM has a 2 speed fan is for hotter engines and lower emmissions. Many web sites for GMC, Chevy, Pontiac, Buick & Cadillac all complain of overheating.

So, here's the easiest fix. Take out the OEM fan. Buy the after market fan of your choice. I went with the 2670 CFM Zirgo. 14 inch is the proper size. Then, from the 3 wire harness, hook-up the negative from the harness to the negative of the fan. Then hook-up both positives from the harness to the positive of the fan. This will still have the ECM turn the fan on and off when the computer says so by turning the high and low fan relay on and off. But, every time the fan comes on it will come on at only one speed - fast. No more low and high. It will just be full throttle, so to speak, and, thus, more air flow thru the radiator and a cooler engine.

I re-did mine this way and I can literally hold a piece of paper up to the front grill and the fan sucks it in and holds it up against the grill. And noise is not an issue. I can hear the fan, but only if I get out of the car and listen for it. In the car at a red light no fan noise is detectible.

:seeya
 

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Thanks. That sounds a lot easier.
 

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Can a not so mechanically inclined...but thinks she is... :ssr owner accomplish this or should she seek outside help :angel
 

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matjow said:
I didn't like my "logic" transfer fix. So I decided to keep it simple. It seems to me that the ONLY reason GM has a 2 speed fan is for hotter engines and lower emmissions. Many web sites for GMC, Chevy, Pontiac, Buick & Cadillac all complain of overheating.

So, here's the easiest fix. Take out the OEM fan. Buy the after market fan of your choice. I went with the 2670 CFM Zirgo. 14 inch is the proper size. Then, from the 3 wire harness, hook-up the negative from the harness to the negative of the fan. Then hook-up both positives from the harness to the positive of the fan. This will still have the ECM turn the fan on and off when the computer says so by turning the high and low fan relay on and off. But, every time the fan comes on it will come on at only one speed - fast. No more low and high. It will just be full throttle, so to speak, and, thus, more air flow thru the radiator and a cooler engine.

I re-did mine this way and I can literally hold a piece of paper up to the front grill and the fan sucks it in and holds it up against the grill. And noise is not an issue. I can hear the fan, but only if I get out of the car and listen for it. In the car at a red light no fan noise is detectible.

:seeya
Would like to see some pics on this for the mechanically challenged. Please???
 

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Model # and Price.

matjow, What was the specific model # of the fan you used and what was the price? Was it a simple "plug & play" or did you have to cut and splice wires for the wiring harness? Did the new fan bolt up to the factory bolt holes or was additional drilling required? Can you program the new fan to specific "on/off" temperatures? Sorry for so many questions but I'm excited that you may have found a somewhat simple solution to the overheating problem that exists. Thanx. PM
 

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matjow, Don't Leave Us Hanging!

This thread certainly died quickly. I was hoping that matjow could supply the necessary specifics on his fan installation which cured the notorious overheating problem. If you're still out there please be so kind as to let us know more about the aftermarket fan that you installed and has it solved the overheating problem for you.. Thanx.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm still here

Here's how you wire it. Unplug the old OEM fan and cut the plug off of it. Wire the aftermarket fan of your choice to the plug. This way, the afternmarket fan will use the same plug and if you ever want to go back to the OEM fan, you can just get one and plug it right back in.

The brown wire on the fan-side of the plug is the ground. Just wire nut it to the ground of the aftermarket fan. The other 2 plug wires are the positive for the high speed relay and the positive for the low speed relay. Just wire nut them both to the positive wire of the aftermarket fan.

You will no longer have a 2 speed fan. The on-board computer will still think you do and the programmming will still turn the low fan on and off and the high fan on and off at the programed times and temps - however, when the fan actually goes on - it will only be at the one speed - which is all the way with no crummy low speed resistors which causes our SSRs to overheat.

You may use the aftermarker fan of your choice. I have the Zirgo 14S in right now with 2760 CFM. But I'm thinking of going all the way with this one:


http://store.summitracing.com/defau...sults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=18&y=7
 

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Zirgo

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOk just type in the word Zirgo hit your GO (search button) where-in you will have options U will then select Zirgo Products and lo and behold a list of all there products Then select HIGH PERFORMANCE COOLING FANS ta da you will be there and the 14s is listed otay Spanky
 

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Maybe I'm looking at this wrong, but if the problem with the OEM fan is the "low speed resistors", couldn't one remove the resistors and convert the two speed OEM fan into a one speed fan without resistors??
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes and no. The low speed resistor is built-in to the circuit board of the OEM fan motor. So, if you wanted to cut the resistor and then sauder in a jumper wire - technically - yes you could.

However, the crummy OEM fan motor is burning-up and failing when running on low. If it ran on high at all times it would probably burn-up in half the time.

The OEM motor is just flat-out a crummy and weak motor.
 

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So what fan is it?

matjow said:
and then sauder in a jumper wire
That is a pretty good pun! (Sauder means jump in French, but sounds like solder.)

So, which fan is it that you are thinking of upgrading to? Mine is back up to 240 or so today, and it is cloudy and cold in SoCal...
 

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fjungman: If you have 240 on the gauge when it is cloudy and cold, your OEM fan has already lost its high speed setting. Act quickly. The low speed goes next.

Before just replacing the OEM fan with an aftermarket one, get the OEM replaced by an OEM one FIRST. That way, if you find the new aftermarket one does not work as well as you like, you still have a WORKING OEM one.

Jim G
 

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Shows why not to procrastenate.

Jim,
I was all excited to help with the high-temp problem, then I got mine back from Chevy with a new fan last month. I lost interest when it never, ever went above 210 in bumper to bumper on some hot SoCal days.
Now I realize the error of my ways, along with the futility of having the OEM fan. Until they change p/n, there is no point in having an untrustworthy unit. I would like to start with a 100% duty cycle rated large single, or dual-fan setup. Then, since my lift is now clear, get the underhood heat out with some creative airflow techniques learned from paying close attention to Riely & Scott's work over the years. I think we need to go beyond just a reliable cooling fan and get the underhood temps back to a sane value. I know this was hashed out before, but I have some ideas I need to try. Hell, it should make a good couple of pages for your book.
Of course, I can just wait for the third one to fail and get them to by my car back under the lemon-law...
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I hear ya!

Fungungman,

When my third OEM fan burned out, I just ripped the damn thing out. I figured whatever I did with an aftermarkey fan couldn't be any worse, and I was right.

I'm looking for a double fan set=up as well, but they are all too wide. Needs to be 24" by 15.5" tops.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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I sent you a PM. Check your PM box.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the PMs

I've gotten more PMs than expected. Thanks! Let me respond to all PMs as follows:

The fan is a Zirgo 14S. You can see it at http://www.zirgo.com/detail.lasso?itemid=ZF14S

It is rated at 2670 CFM. I have had it installed for a week and it works just fine. It keeps my SSR between 190 and 210. If I'm really stuck in traffic for a long time here in Tampa, it has hit 215.

I am simply a guy that likes overkill. It's just my personality. So, I'm going to scrap the OEM shroud and install the 16" Zirgo fan. The 14" works fine. But I figure the 16" will work even better.

However, the 16" will not fit the OEM shroud. So, I'll have to customize it. The 14" fits the OEM shroud with a little bit of shaving and a new hole or two drilled here or there.

The fan will be placed back in the factory box and shipped to whoever buys it. I will be happy to give whoever buys it everything I got with it so that they can take advantage of the lifetime warranty from Zirgo.

I paid $140.00 for it and an additional $50.00 for shipping. But, I can't charge anybody for what it cost to ship to me. That's my problem.

I'd be willing to sell it for half price, or $70.00, plus $18.00 for UPS shipping, for a total of $88.00. I figure half price for a barely used fan is a good deal for somebody else while, at the same time, I'd rather incur only a $70.00 loss for the education rather than a $140.00 loss for the ecucation.

I not looking to make a buck. If I can give somebody a good deal with a half price fan, than I'm happy to do so for a fellow SSR owner.

I certainly don't need a 14 inch fan in my attic. So, I'd rather chalk-up the experience and the experiment to a $70 loss than a $140 loss.

It belongs to the FIRST person who commits and who can pay by Pay Pal. The First person will be determined by the time stamp on the PM agreeing to buy it.

Thanks to all.


Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gone!

Gone! Thanks!
 
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