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Discussion Starter #1
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OK, we have had posts on this before, but I'm now looking for some updated specific info as I'm about to order up a set of cut-outs and schedule for their installation.

I've reviewed several Brands as to their cut-out features. Most seem to be fairly much the same. My Muffler Shop guy did say he had installed several sets of QTP brand and thought they were one of the best. So I"m looking to go with them, but some of the customer feedback on them has suggested motor (burn out) due to too many cycles of the devices and/or not letting up on the switches when they reach fully open and/or closed..........thus causing a problem with life of the motors. One of the recommended answers is to be sure and order up the (optional) remote control (versus) using the included "toggle" switch.

Not sure why the "remote" would make a difference there, if one were to keep pushing the button one way or the other.:surprise:

So, with that in mind, unless I get some serious feedback as to a better alternative that is around the same cost wise.........I will go with QTP in the dual (2 1/2") version.

Remaining question would be the best path to hook up the "hot" lead to a "keyed" source for the switch. I understand there is a "plug" under one of the seats to gain access to the interior and then what would be the best (hook up) to a "switched" hot lead.:smile2:
 

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Ex SoCal Nut
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Don't forget that your motor is snugged up to the pipe where the temps are the highest. It may NOT be the switch or remote that burns out the motor. Our ABS Module goes thru the same punishment. Right next to Hi Temps = electrical Failure. Switches/Remotes do Not enter into the equation here. There are a couple of "flo thru" mufflers with an internal cut out out there, I think Hooker is one of them. Motor is located farther away from the muffler, too. The dump point will be at the exhaust tips rather than right under your Butt, too. Good for the Mrs....... Hope this helps.
 

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Two Tone Owner
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2,682 Posts
I have the QTP cutout on my R. It is hooked up with the switch, mounted above the power outlet on the drivers side. I copied someone’s instruction on this site.
I haven’t had any problems with it. When I first got it, I hot wired it on the bench to see it work. Then I took a slow count from full open to full close. My count was 7. Now when I operate it, I count to 7 and it is fully opened or closed. My mechanic took the power from the underhood fuse block. He drilled a small hole in the firewall for the wire. Also, whenever I get it serviced, I lube the pivot shaft with a heat resistant lube.:yellow:[SIZE]
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #5
Don't forget that your motor is snugged up to the pipe where the temps are the highest. It may NOT be the switch or remote that burns out the motor. Our ABS Module goes thru the same punishment. Right next to Hi Temps = electrical Failure. Switches/Remotes do Not enter into the equation here. There are a couple of "flo thru" mufflers with an internal cut out out there, I think Hooker is one of them. Motor is located farther away from the muffler, too. The dump point will be at the exhaust tips rather than right under your Butt, too. Good for the Mrs....... Hope this helps.
:smile2:

Well, the video is of a different brand, but they address the heat issues with their demo.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
:smile2:

OK, my parts from Summit have shown up (in unbelievable) record time. In trying to get the wiring done ahead of going to the muffler shop, I ran the rig up onto the ramps backwards....thinking that would give me the access needed under the passenger seat area.

Now that I have he back in "jacked up", via the ramps...........It appears I might have been better served to ramp up the front end to give more clearance under the passenger floor as there is where I believe an entry into the passenger area may exist.

I do note a "oval" plate over what seems to be the passenger floor area that shows a clip (from below) that just maybe the right place to "drill a hole" and/or use to gain entry into the Cab.

Have not yet pulled up carpeting in that area, but plan to do so tomorrow.

Any assist on cable routing and/or a "rear" fuse box connection that is "switchable" would be appreciated.:grin2:
 

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Premium Member
2004 Slingshot Yellow
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:smile2:

OK, my parts from Summit have shown up (in unbelievable) record time. In trying to get the wiring done ahead of going to the muffler shop, I ran the rig up onto the ramps backwards....thinking that would give me the access needed under the passenger seat area.

Now that I have he back in "jacked up", via the ramps...........It appears I might have been better served to ramp up the front end to give more clearance under the passenger floor as there is where I believe an entry into the passenger area may exist.

I do note a "oval" plate over what seems to be the passenger floor area that shows a clip (from below) that just maybe the right place to "drill a hole" and/or use to gain entry into the Cab.

Have not yet pulled up carpeting in that area, but plan to do so tomorrow.

Any assist on cable routing and/or a "rear" fuse box connection that is "switchable" would be appreciated.:grin2:
There is a round plastic plug under the passenger seat. Run the seat all the way forward (remove cup holder!), pull back the carpet to access it. I slit it with a utility knife pulled wires for camera through and sealed with RTV.
Greg
 

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Premium Member
2006 S/C Silver & 2006 Pac Blue 6spd
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:smile2:

OK, my parts from Summit have shown up (in unbelievable) record time. In trying to get the wiring done ahead of going to the muffler shop, I ran the rig up onto the ramps backwards....thinking that would give me the access needed under the passenger seat area.

Now that I have he back in "jacked up", via the ramps...........It appears I might have been better served to ramp up the front end to give more clearance under the passenger floor as there is where I believe an entry into the passenger area may exist.

I do note a "oval" plate over what seems to be the passenger floor area that shows a clip (from below) that just maybe the right place to "drill a hole" and/or use to gain entry into the Cab.

Have not yet pulled up carpeting in that area, but plan to do so tomorrow.

Any assist on cable routing and/or a "rear" fuse box connection that is "switchable" would be appreciated.:grin2:
There is a round plastic plug under the passenger seat. Run the seat all the way forward (remove cup holder!), pull back the carpet to access it. I slit it with a utility knife pulled wires for camera through and sealed with RTV.
Greg
I did much the same as @Texasbaehr, except thru a plug in the bottom of the roof compartment. The plug is under the protector. I then ran the (camera) wire up with the rest of the wiring into the back of the waterfall area. From there you can get to the switchable power in the rear fuse block.

- Robert
:silver:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is a round plastic plug under the passenger seat. Run the seat all the way forward (remove cup holder!), pull back the carpet to access it. I slit it with a utility knife pulled wires for camera through and sealed with RTV.
Greg
:smile2:

I went with this way to access the interior. I pulled out the plastic plus and drilled a half inch hole in the middle of it. This allowed me to squeeze/force a section of wiring tubing (that plastic slit down the middle stuff that wraps around wiring in most cars/trucks)......So I left about a half inch protruding up from the plastic plug and rest of wire wrap stuff went under the truck for protection of the wiring cables from heat sources. From that plastic plug, one can pull up the carpeting enough to "snake" the wires/cables up into the rear fuse box area.

I chose a "switched" circuit to piggy back off of and was able to wire up my "remote" switch and have since hooked it all up and tested that it worked. Now I'm set to go to the Muffler
Shop for the installation of the cut outs.

Since I ordered up the "remote" switch, I went with that but (if not), I had decided to mount the included toggle switch at the back end of my console compartment. I absolutely did not want to (AGAIN) go thru pulling off the waterfall piece and rest of console parts to allow for mounting the toggle switch on drivers side of console. Thus, I concluded that the 3 1/2 inch clearance on the back side of the toggle switch was "doable" by drilling a hole on the back side of the console compartment about a 1 1/2 or 2" below the top/back portion. This would work and avoid the "stop"/catch......that allows the lid to (lock) open when you get into it.

But in the end, just went with the remote instead.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:smile2:

Well, finally got 'er done. Via the remote, it can rumble or quite down to a Magnaflow tone and/or anywhere in between.

:grin2:
 

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I am sooo envious. Just had a complete home electrical panel upgrade, bought a new king bed, replaced two home water heaters and in the throws of a master bathroom remodel. All my spare change for SSR toys is dryed up!:frown2:
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #12
I am sooo envious. Just had a complete home electrical panel upgrade, bought a new king bed, replaced two home water heaters and in the throws of a master bathroom remodel. All my spare change for SSR toys is dryed up!:frown2:
:|
I feel your pain. I'm stuck too replacing some appliances, etc. Guess we all have to deal with that problem.

Meantime, I had some (mad money) bagged away from selling some silver and gold a few yrs ago.......came in handy for "toy" upgrades like this and others.:wink2:
 
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