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Installing Halo Driving lite in my new Fasica, Housing has a socket for existing Driving/Fog lights which is no problem The halo has 2 wires Red and Black. I plan on finding empty fuse that is hot when ignition is on, want halo lights on all the time. Using fuse box under hood. Put fuse holder with wire and 20amp fuse. Question is do I need a relay and is there a 2 wire relay? And what would be the purpose of a relay? Thanks
 

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A relay is basically a electromagnetic switch. The purpose of a relay is to use a low current circuit (creates the magnetic field) to control a high current circuit (the switched side of relay). The relay is part of two circuits and most have 4 or 5 terminals.
20 Amp in-line fuse is way too large.

Are these basically a dual light. 2 wires for fog lights and 2 others for halo?
What is the wattage of the halo lights?
(Watts law is Watts=Amps X Volts). The few I saw on eBay the halo was 10 watts. So 20 watts / 14 volts =less than 2 Amp draw. I would not install anything larger the 5 amp and actually use a 2 Amp fuse. If it blows a two amp fuse you will have to be careful your power tap is not drawing more current though and already weak ignition switch. Without any experience in this fuse box or access to a good diagram at the moment I would ask Somebody with experience wiring in aftermarket accessories for help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A relay is basically a electromagnetic switch. The purpose of a relay is to use a low current circuit (creates the magnetic field) to control a high current circuit (the switched side of relay). The relay is part of two circuits and most have 4 or 5 terminals.
20 Amp in-line fuse is way too large.

Are these basically a dual light. 2 wires for fog lights and 2 others for halo?
What is the wattage of the halo lights?
(Watts law is Watts=Amps X Volts). The few I saw on eBay the halo was 10 watts. So 20 watts / 14 volts =less than 2 Amp draw. I would not install anything larger the 5 amp and actually use a 2 Amp fuse. If it blows a two amp fuse you will have to be careful your power tap is not drawing more current though and already weak ignition switch. Without any experience in this fuse box or access to a good diagram at the moment I would ask Somebody with experience wiring in aftermarket accessories for help.
It is NOT a dual Light. There is a socket for the existing factory fog lite so you are only moving it. I only found 4 or 5 wire relays, and my halo lights only have 2 wires. How would the relay be wired in to it? Will lower fuse amp.
 

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As Autoprof mentioned, switches are used to allow power to a higher current circuit. Relays are normally used for things like headlights, fog, top motor, etc... things that use a lot of current that a switch cannot normally handle.

Normally these are the connections you need at the relay:
- A negative connection to a local ground
- The connection from the power switch to actuate the relay
- One connection for each power leg of the fog light
- One to the high power input that you are using from the fuse box.
The negatives at the fogs should be connected to local ground. This above connections would use the 5 leg relay.

Or, you could connect only one wire to supply the fog light power and split it after the relay, this would eliminate one of the fog connections at the relay and you would use a 4 connection relay. So to answer your question, you could use a 4 or 5 leg relay. All relays have the pin and function printed on the unit so you should be able to figure out what connections to make. All you need to do is figure out if you want to use separate wires or split the wire for the light power source.

Again, as Autoprof pointed out with the current, make sure all the components you use are properly rated for the current needed and fused just above the expected output. If you need assistance in converting, there are a many online watt to amp conversion tools online.
 

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SWT RD
I did not understand the new fog lights actually use the old fog lights (2 wires) and are just adding the halo light (2 wires) I assumed the new light had both built in (4 wires). And you want the halos on all the time the key is on.
Now that I understand further - here is some more information

Normally these are the connections you need at the relay:
- A negative connection to a local ground
- The connection from the power switch to actuate the relay
- One connection for each power leg of the fog light
- One to the high power input that you are using from the fuse box.
The negatives at the fogs should be connected to local ground. This above connections would use the 5 leg relay.
Dragon
I think a 4 terminal relay is what he would want -- your third statement may be confusing to some if they have never wired a five terminal relay.--
One connection for each power leg of the fog light
Picture 1 -- terminal 87 is the one you should connect to both halo lights - if you connect each halo light to a separate terminal (87 and 87a) - one light would always be on and the relay the would then just switch which light comes on.

I know you know how this works but I was concerned others might not connect it correctly.

Please see picture 2 regarding relay wiring and I would recommend a 4 terminal relay

in your case you would connect terminal 86 to ignition switched power.
then run terminal 87 to the red wire of both halo lights, black of halo would connect to local ground as dragon said.
This would also require an inline fuse on wires from terminals 86 and 30.

I am not even sure if you need to use a relay -- you never replied what the wattage of the halos are. If only 10watts as I questioned earlier - your idea might be fine if you used a 2 amp inline fuse and depending on the circuit you tapped into.

Another word of caution DO NOT EVER use a fuse box tap shown in picture 3-- these can damage the female terminal in the fuse box !!!!
instead use the one similar to picture 4 (not sure if it would clear fuse box cover ?) with an inline fuse connected to the protruding wire.

EDIT -- info added
Relays were required when using incandescent lights which require more current (amperage) -- your halo lights are most lightly LED and are a low power with a small current draw? -- again you never mentioned the wattage.
 

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instead use the one similar to picture 4 (not sure if it would clear fuse box cover ?) with an inline fuse connected to the protruding wire.
.
I am using these but,--why the in line fuse? isn't the blue fuse shown protecting that lead, and then the socket, next to the blue fuse, in that unit takes the original fuse removed to insert that tap, protecting the original circuit? I may not have explained it good but you know what I'm talking about.?

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Description is 40 SMD high-powered Halo. On eBay"universal 3" angle eye Halo lights"
 

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OK, If I am installing the Halo fog lights it seems that I need to connect to two circuits to power the lights. First, the existing fog light circuit. Second, a circuit that replaces the circuit that replaces the DRL circuit for the halo ring.

If that is correct, then the first connection seems simple.

The second connection seems to require something to replace the existing DRL circuit with something to power the halo ring on the fog lights. I know there is something to do this that is available.

Thanks
 

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I am using these but,--why the in line fuse? isn't the blue fuse shown protecting that lead, and then the socket, next to the blue fuse, in that unit takes the original fuse removed to insert that tap, protecting the original circuit? I may not have explained it good but you know what I'm talking about.?

Nick
Nick, the answer is maybe.

You need to know which side of fuse box you have the extra lead on. One side feeds fuse the other side is fused.

To determine this remove fuse (in your case fuse tap) then using a test light (or voltmeter) connected to a good ground, check the female terminals of fuse box. One side will have power the other side should not.
If you plug tap so red wire is hot side of fuse box you ARE NOT using the fuse.

I would recommend you install the tap to fused side an inline fuse with only enough amps for added circuit. If add on circuit has a problem it will blow that fuse only and allow other components to still function. If tap fuse blows when added circuit is activated with fused circuit you tapped off of also turned on you have to pick a different fuse to tap from.

More work and expense, but I believe in the extra protection.
I have investigated bad repairs with wiring harnesses melted as a technical expert for the Ohio auto dealers association with the Ohio attorney generals office. When a wire is overloaded beyond its current capability the hot spot is not localized. The wire melts into the harness all the way through the harness. One case was from starter solenoid all the way to ignition switch. Big big $$$$' and I found fault that was evidence of mistake made during repair.

EDIT.
Easier method

You can also tell if added circuit is fused by removing fuse. If circuit still works the tap is backwards and circuit not fused.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Stiles on this type setup you are only moving existing fog lights from one socket to new. Autoprof you forgot one thing, make sure ignition is on to test fuse.
 

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But, with the Halo lights you have 2 lights. The fog lights and the ring lights around the fog lights. I would like to use the ring lights as my DRL lights and not the dimming system for the head lights.

As I recall, others have done this with a wiring adapter for the DRLs.
 

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But, with the Halo lights you have 2 lights. The fog lights and the ring lights around the fog lights. I would like to use the ring lights as my DRL lights and not the dimming system for the head lights.

As I recall, others have done this with a wiring adapter for the DRLs.
Stiles
I looked at wiring diagram and circuit description. I see a way possible to connect into the DRL relay circuits, but it would require modification of factory harness (something I try to avoid) and you would have to bypass the DRL diode.
I am also not sure if you tap (reroute) the signal from the DRL relays if they will still come on with low beams on (circuit description is unclear). I know the low beams are increased - but the question would be
Does the BCM still energize the DRL relays when the low beam light relay is energized?
Is this something you would care about?
I am curious how others might have handled it.

SWT RD could unplug DRL fuse and then halos would be only lights on (thus act like DRLs) however his halos will be on whenever the key is on, no matter what! This might be illegal when high beams are on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Halo- Led lights come on when ignition is on. Most new cars have these. They stay on whether low or high beams are on. The only legal part is the color of the lamps. White and Amber are the only ones that are really legal. These lights do not give out a beam of light like fog, driving or headlights.
 

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If I pull the DRL fuse and disable them will I have any other problems created? If not, then that might be the way to go. Then, I could find a circuit that is "hot in run" and that would power the halos.

I would like to use the emergency brake method of turning off the DRL but that seems to turn off the auto headlight feature which I use???
 

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If I pull the DRL fuse and disable them will I have any other problems created? If not, then that might be the way to go. Then, I could find a circuit that is "hot in run" and that would power the halos.

I would like to use the emergency brake method of turning off the DRL but that seems to turn off the auto headlight feature which I use???
I don't believe the auto headlights are disabled after you release parking brake. Easy to test before you wire. Remove fuse then try engaging and releasing parking brake in low light where auto headlights would be on.
My thought is they should go out with brake applied and come on when release brake. Try it in park and in gear. Just because they say it happens a certain way, doesn't mean it does. I personally have never tried it, or observed a problem.
We will all learn for sure how this really works.
 

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Actually, at least on my SSR, the parking brake method does disable the auto headlight feature until you have re-cycled the ignition switch off and on.
 

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After reading this Thread I will be leaving my lights the way they came from GM. Nuff said!!!
 

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Installing Halo Driving lite in my new Fasica, Housing has a socket for existing Driving/Fog lights which is no problem The halo has 2 wires Red and Black. I plan on finding empty fuse that is hot when ignition is on, want halo lights on all the time. Using fuse box under hood. Put fuse holder with wire and 20amp fuse. Question is do I need a relay and is there a 2 wire relay? And what would be the purpose of a relay? Thanks
I'm not relating to just how/or why any concern with the halo lights versus the DRL. Actually, I'm kinda sick of repeatedly seeing some ref. to the (DRL) which I believe is the lower beam (less voltage) aspect of the head light system that comes on during the day.

Correct???

So, how or why that is a concern relative to activating your angel lights, come back and clearify............meantime, this link shows what I just installed to activate my angel eye lights without any wiring between the engine compartment and the interior cab.

Strictly a $10 remote control setup and the relay comes pre-wired into the system.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_3?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=qdy%20remote%20wiring&sprefix=qdy,aps,214&crid=1N1E5OYKZE[/ame]
 

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I'm not relating to just how/or why any concern with the halo lights versus the DRL. Actually, I'm kinda sick of repeatedly seeing some ref. to the (DRL) which I believe is the lower beam (less voltage) aspect of the head light system that comes on during the day.

Correct???

So, how or why that is a concern relative to activating your angel lights, come back and clearify............meantime, this link shows what I just installed to activate my angel eye lights without any wiring between the engine compartment and the interior cab.

Strictly a $10 remote control setup and the relay comes pre-wired into the system.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_3?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=qdy remote wiring&sprefix=qdy,aps,214&crid=1N1E5OYKZE
I suspect that the idea is to deactivate the DRL and run the Halos instead. My mind says the way to do that is unplug the Diode in the roof storage compartment and the DRL are disabled.
 
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