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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
moscooter asked a question about Hurst shifters on another thread, and supplied a link to this information about an aftermarket Hurst shifter.

https://core-shifters.com/products/core-shifter-hurst-chrome-stick-knob-2005-06-chevy-ssr-truck-ls2-t56-6-speed

Does anyone have experience with this shifter. If so, please report on its performance compared to the stock shifter. Installation degree of difficulty?

I have since located two other threads discussing a Hurst shifter, so thought it best to get the information in one place.

On this link, post 13 has a detailed description by Topspin of the installation process.

http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/short-throw-shifter-17528/

I really like the looks of the SSR shifter ball, and would want to know if the stock SSR ball can be mounted on the Hurst linkage. It looks like most aftermarket shifter balls are threaded. Stock ball is on a plastic sleeve, held in place with a Torx setscrew.

This link is to another thread with Fanatics' experience with the Hurst shifter.

http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f35/new-hurst-shifter-121137/
 
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I have had the conversion for a couple of years. I really like it as it is not sloppy like the OE. To me there is no comparison.

The thread on the OE is different. I would suppose you could adapt it to work if you really wanted to. I really like the various Hurst shifters. I am current running a large white one, but I have black and T shift as well as a 50th anniversary Hurst one I really like.

Too bad we didn't think of it in Pendicton or you could have driven mine.

Dave
 

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I have had the conversion for a couple of years. I really like it as it is not sloppy like the OE. To me there is no comparison.

The thread on the OE is different. I would suppose you could adapt it to work if you really wanted to. I really like the various Hurst shifters. I am current running a large white one, but I have black and T shift as well as a 50th anniversary Hurst one I really like.

Too bad we didn't think of it in Pendicton or you could have driven mine.

Dave
Dave,

Is there enough room/access from the top side to swap out the shifter or to complete the swap ya gotta jack 'er up and finish it from the bottom side.:smile2:
 

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Do a search Hurst shifters. You will find information on this. I thought about do this about year ago. I think I read a post from Topspin doing this conversion.
 

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I installed a core shifter a couple of years ago. It came with very good instructions. I am no mechanic and I think it took me most of a day to do the install. I wanted to use my SSR shifter ball and found a way to do it. I am thinking I had to modify the top of the shifter and used an adaptor. The short throw shifter is very well made and quite an improvement over stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)

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It is all from the top. My mechanic did it. Removed console etc., but had it done in under an hour.

You would notice the much more precise shifting.

Dave
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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If I had to guess, I'd say that wasn't his first install. What'd they used to tell us in school? "Practice makes perfect".

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #11
Just ordered the Core Shifter/Hurst shift kit. The website says about 1 week to ship because kits are built to order.

I was surprised to receive a USPS tracking number on the same day. Bonus!!!!

When it arrives, I will experiment to see if it is possible to get the stock chrome knob to fit securely enough to be passable. If it works, I will send the stock knob out for rechroming. Factory chrome knob is no longer available from GM, and last pricing on it was insane - over $400 just for the knob.

Chris at Core Shifters says the stock knob won't work, but there has to be a way. I will update if it works.
 
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BAD BOW TIE
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Just an idea. Does the stock knob screw on or how is it attached? If it screws on and it is just different thread than the shifter the company that made my custom knob has little adapter fittings that screw into the ball and then change thread to the shifter size. They just ask you to provide both the thread sizes and depth etc. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just an idea. Does the stock knob screw on or how is it attached? If it screws on and it is just different thread than the shifter the company that made my custom knob has little adapter fittings that screw into the ball and then change thread to the shifter size. They just ask you to provide both the thread sizes and depth etc. Good luck.
The stock knob has a fairly large inside diameter, and a nylon sleeve that fits tightly on the lever shaft. It is locked in place by a torx head screw hiding at the lower front of the knob which bottoms out in a slot cut into the shaft. The nylon sleeve has a lip at the top that keeps the leather boot in place.

I'll have to wait till it arrives to see if I can adapt the knob to fit, with or without the nylon sleeve.
 

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I have had the conversion for a couple of years. I really like it as it is not sloppy like the OE. To me there is no comparison.

The thread on the OE is different. I would suppose you could adapt it to work if you really wanted to. I really like the various Hurst shifters. I am current running a large white one, but I have black and T shift as well as a 50th anniversary Hurst one I really like.

Too bad we didn't think of it in Pendicton or you could have driven mine.

Dave
How did ya get the various colored knobs. I've made my order and the thing says (black).
I've sent two separate emails trying to let them know I really would prefer the white knob.

So far, no response except for my order number and thus I'm expecting a black knob where I want it or not.:frown2:
 

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I also have the aftermarket "Core" Hurst shifter. It is a tight fit to get it installed from the top, but it can be done. I used a 13mm pivoting ratchet wrench and alot of patience. It really tightens up the shift sequence, not sloppy like the OEM shifter. It is not quite centered in the leather boot, slightly to the right of center.

I did have a problem with the tower boot recently, I discovered that the tranny was puking lots of fluid out the shifter tower. The boot on the top of the tower had split and the fluid was leaking out the top of the tower. I replaced it with an OEM boot, its a snug fit but works well. I completed the installation by running a wide nylon cable tie around the boot to hold it in place, it was a relatively easy fix. I would recommend taking a close look, possibly adding a cable tie before finishing up the installation.

As far as the knob attaching onto the Hurst shifter, I recall it is a 3/8-16 thread. The OEM shifter ball is a nylon slip fit with a set screw. I Suppose a guy could adapt it to the Hurst shifter but i prefer the blue pearl Hurst shifter I special ordered directly from Hurst. It came with an adapter to thread directly onto the shifter. I blue loc-tighted it onto the new shifter and it works great!

Check out my Garage photos for a pic of the shifter and knob. It turned out great, IMO.
 

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:frown2:TE=Magic Carpet Ride;3755705]I also have the aftermarket "Core" Hurst shifter. It is a tight fit to get it installed from the top, but it can be done. I used a 13mm pivoting ratchet wrench and alot of patience. It really tightens up the shift sequence, not sloppy like the OEM shifter. It is not quite centered in the leather boot, slightly to the right of center.

I did have a problem with the tower boot recently, I discovered that the tranny was puking lots of fluid out the shifter tower. The boot on the top of the tower had split and the fluid was leaking out the top of the tower. I replaced it with an OEM boot, its a snug fit but works well. I completed the installation by running a wide nylon cable tie around the boot to hold it in place, it was a relatively easy fix. I would recommend taking a close look, possibly adding a cable tie before finishing up the installation.

As far as the knob attaching onto the Hurst shifter, I recall it is a 3/8-16 thread. The OEM shifter ball is a nylon slip fit with a set screw. I Suppose a guy could adapt it to the Hurst shifter but i prefer the blue pearl Hurst shifter I special ordered directly from Hurst. It came with an adapter to thread directly onto the shifter. I blue loc-tighted it onto the new shifter and it works great!

Check out my Garage photos for a pic of the shifter and knob. It turned out great, IMO.[/QUOTE]

:frown2:

"I also have the aftermarket "Core" Hurst shifter. It is a tight fit to get it installed from the top, but it can be done. I used a 13mm pivoting ratchet wrench and alot of patience."

Gonna check Harbor Freight this afternoon. Been to Lowes, plus two Auto stores and also Tractor Supply. Really do NOT wanna spend over $80 to get a whole set of ratcheting and pivoting box end/open end wrenches,,,,,,,,,,,just to use the 13mm one about once.:crying:
 

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I have found that $30 for a cheap set of said wrenches from Harbor Freight was reasonable. Overall, much less total expenditure than if I farmed out the shift swap job to some shop.

Kinda think it will take me quite a bit longer than an hour..........(as quoted earlier). Frankly, I worked in a Chevy dealership some 50 plus years ago and I understand how some mechs........can beat the (flat rate)........but I have serious doubts the "it only took an hour or so" and would claim B.S. if there was really a way to recreate the scenario.
 

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I removed the console and reinstalled it, but I got billed an hour labor for the install.

Dave
:surprise:
I'm currently STUCK getting the total console out. I have followed the corehurst shifter instructions regarding removal as well as the SSR shop manual on that topic.

I have all out down to the outer console shell. I have removed the two screws (about shoulder high) at the back and pulled the back free of the "locator" pins, have also freed up the front of it from under the metal clips.

Everything feels "loose" and ready for the (slide the whole deal forward).........as they say in the instructions, BUT, while the passenger side seems ready to move, the drivers side toward the rear won't budge. It feels to me like there is maybe one more bolt/nut holding it in place, but damned if I can see where it is..........Don't wanna tug any harder than already have........

Any thoughts on what could be holding console frame in place?????????????????:frown2:
 
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