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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know what type/size/voltage bulb to replace the solder-in fog light indicator bulb in the headlight switch...or a brighter replacement? Mine is out.
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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Does anyone know what type/size/voltage bulb to replace the solder-in fog light indicator bulb in the headlight switch...or a brighter replacement? Mine is out.
There is an indicator light for that somewhere? Who knew???
 
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Ex SoCal Nut
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... It is Soooo Hard to see when it's ON. I pretty much run with them ON, so before shifting, I turn them ON. It's easy to get the small light switch panel off. When mine burns out, I will take out the cover if replacing with the OEM incandescent bulb. If I replace with an LED, maybe just leave it in place. It is So Hard to See during the Day to tell if they're "on or off"... Too Bad my bulb has lasted 15yrs !!! I'd a changed it out sooner and had better answers for you....
 
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Discussion Starter #4
It is an amber colored 5mm LED bulb. Just not sure regarding voltage...
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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What bulb did he use?
I bought a bag of them..... They are Green and definitely show up in the daytime. I have not put them on my website, yet...... When I do, they will be $5...... delivered, with instructions. Simple Install.

Mike
 

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Yes, you must solder the new LED leads in place.

Removal/installation is simple.......
:crying:
Mike, I'm running into it being not so simple or easy. While not a great person with a soldering gun, I think I might can do it here if I could clear a couple of "snags".

I bought the new LED one like shown in Trucknrods post.

I now have the switch module out and apart on my bench. It appears to me that one would need to cut the existing leads from current bulb and also remove that little &*%^$ black plastic tower that the current bulb mounts upon.

It's hard to get at the plastic prongs protruding on underside of module to squeeze them toward each other so as to pop that tower out of the module.

Once that could happen (somehow), I note that the new LED bulb and its leads are only about 1" long total. While the current leads are closer to 1 1/4". This makes it appear to me as once the old one was out, mounting the new LED into the top of that plastic tower and then bending the leads down to exit thru the module base.......they would come up a little short to get soldered.

I'm not cutting the current bulb leads till I understand from someone that has done this that there is a way to extract the black plastic tower and that the lead (length) is overcome somehow.:confused
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Moscooter,
I snipped the origional bulb leads right behind the bulb, which left a little of the leads protruding from the black plastic tower. I “tinned” the ends of those leads and then pushed the leads of the new bulb through the holes in the plastic tower, making sure polarity of the bulb was correct. I positioned the bulb so it would be a little longer (further down the barrel), soldered them in place, and then snipped off the excess. Compare the two pics of the insides of the switch I posted and you’ll see the solder joints.
Hope this helps.
 

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:crying:
Mike, I'm running into it being not so simple or easy. While not a great person with a soldering gun, I think I might can do it here if I could clear a couple of "snags".

I bought the new LED one like shown in Trucknrods post.

I now have the switch module out and apart on my bench. It appears to me that one would need to cut the existing leads from current bulb and also remove that little &*%^$ black plastic tower that the current bulb mounts upon.

It's hard to get at the plastic prongs protruding on underside of module to squeeze them toward each other so as to pop that tower out of the module.

Once that could happen (somehow), I note that the new LED bulb and its leads are only about 1" long total. While the current leads are closer to 1 1/4". This makes it appear to me as once the old one was out, mounting the new LED into the top of that plastic tower and then bending the leads down to exit thru the module base.......they would come up a little short to get soldered.

I'm not cutting the current bulb leads till I understand from someone that has done this that there is a way to extract the black plastic tower and that the lead (length) is overcome somehow.:confused
You will need to clip the leads off where they turn 90 degrees up near the LED. This will leave long leads sticking out of the board with a small 90 degree section at the top. You will then solder the new LED leads to the bend of the long ones that are sticking up. This will be a solder joint at the 90 degree bend and the new LED will be in exactly the same position as the old one.

BE SURE THAT THE NEW LED IS ORIENTED IDENTICAL TO THE OLD ONE. THERE IS A CATHODE AND AN ANODE. IF IT IS INSTALLED BACKWARD, THE LED WILL NOT LIGHT. You can see the mechanical orientation of the cathode and anode through the plastic of the LED, if you use a magnifying glass.

Once you have installed the new LED, you should test the switch before re-installing the panel to be sure the LED lights up.

Mike
 

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Premium Member
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At our Orlando gang get together on Friday we changed the LED bulb in mine to green.
Black tower can be removed. Original gm led is same length as replacement. Seem to be a standard length.
GM used a small brass clamp to extend the length of the wires. It is fairly straightforward to solder extension on the led wires, but need to be very professional at soldering. Unfortunately I did not take a picture if this.
Way beyond my skills!
Glad to have a fellow fanatic that can do that.
Also changed my stepper motors and gauge cluster to green led.
 

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