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2006 Chevrolet SSR
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 SSR with automatic, bone stock, with 27,000 miles.

The last several times I went to get it from storage (I live in Iowa), it had to be jump started. I guessed it could just be an old battery needing replaced, so I replaced it, but it would still need a jump if it sat for more than a day.

My Chevrolet dealer says there is a power draw coming from the "Folding Top Control Module," and they want to replace it. (Actually, they said they found someone to rebuild it.) This strikes me as strange (and expensive) since I'm not having any trouble getting the top to work with the vehicle is running.

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience tracking down an electric "leak" from this module?

Thanks!

- John
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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Welcome to the family. Where have you been hiding for 7 years? :) Please go to the New Members section and introduce yourself. Never be afraid to ask a question here as there is someone who knows the answer,but it may take time to find them.

The dealer is wrong. The top mechanism does not drain the battery when not in use. There are some items which do drain the battery but one day is not normal. 4 days to a week may be a problem. Many of us use a Battery Tender (not a charger) to maintain the battery and if there is AC power available it is a low cost ($50 or so) solution. Made by Deltran, they can be found at most Autoparts stores. A battery switch has been used by some but that involves resetting the window memory every time you go to use it so you must leave the windows down a 1/2" or so when you leave the switch off.

There is something else that is draining the battery if it is going dead in one or two days. Some of those in Iowa will get on here soon and maybe they can be helpful. I hate to say it but be careful of the dealers. Many of them never saw an SSR in their showroom or worked on one.
 

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Slingshot Rules!
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WELCOME, John . . . from Southern Arizona.

I agree with Dwight and Nick . . . Invest in a Battery Tender Plus and use it whenever your SSR is parked. More than just a "fix" but a good $50 investment as it will help the Battery last about twice as long.

Good Luck.


! :cool: ! (y) ! :cool: ! (y) ! :cool: !
 

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Any module could drain the battery if it is defective. I would remove the RDM fuse in the rear fuse box to see if the battery stays up, before even thinking about replacing it. If battery still goes dead tell them "Wrong, try again, this time for free!"
If they cant guarantee their diagnostics they need better techs. The SSR for this is not as difficult as newer cars with the right talent and equipment. Doesn't matter if they have seen one or not. Less than 20 modules and only up to 2 types of computer communications. No fiber optics or radar sensors.
The technology in SSRs is old and should be simple if they would take care of their technicians and treat them with the respect and sslaries they deserve instead of grunts and or grease monkeys.

I would also ask the dealer (any shop for that matter) If you paid for diagnostics and the diagnostics are incorrect what do they do?
My thought, no charge for any parts used for incorrect diagnostic and possibly some refund on labor for diagosis by trial and error.
 

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2006 Chevrolet SSR
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, all. Unfortunately a battery tender is not an option as the storage unit has no power source. I normally try to drive it every couple weeks for 30 minutes to prevent trouble, but I lapsed over the winter to a couple months. I guessed replacing the battery would solve the problem, but no joy.

The dealer had the vehicle almost all day Friday and Monday, and said they found when they disconnected the "Folding Top Control Module", the power draw ended.

I don't have a lot options as it's way over my capabilities to diagnose/repair, but I will definitely ask the question of who foots the bill if replacing the module doesn't fix it.
 

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Slingshot Rules!
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Just a WILD IDEA, John . . .

No personal experience, however, I have seen ads for Solar Powered Battery Tenders. Maybe someone will chime in.

Possible solution?


! :cool: ! (y) ! :cool: ! (y) ! :cool: !
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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Just a WILD IDEA, John . . .

No personal experience, however, I have seen ads for Solar Powered Battery Tenders. Maybe someone will chime in.

Possible solution?


! :cool: ! (y) ! :cool: ! (y) ! :cool: !
It is a possible idea if there is a light source. If you put it on a roof my bet is it will disappear.
 
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I would be very cautious with their advice about replacing or repairing. For one thing they are very hard to find used. Probably impossible to find a new one. And there have been places that claimed they could repair them but I haven't seen anyone with any real track record yet on rebuilding them. Wild Bills was listing a rebuilding service but then that got put on hold with the virus issues. I haven't heard of anyone yet using them so they are a little of an unknown so far.
 

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I would not allow them to send mine out to be rebuilt without a firm commitment this will fix it and toal cost.
I have heard of IPCs causi g a drain, but not sure if enough for overnight on a fully chsrged battery.
 

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Tech Support/Research
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I would not allow them to send mine out to be rebuilt without a firm commitment this will fix it and toal cost.
I have heard of IPCs causi g a drain, but not sure if enough for overnight on a fully chsrged battery.

From my experience the current drain from a defective instrument cluster will not kill a charged battery overnight, more likely a couple of days or more.

Autoprof has in the past posted his straightforward procedure for a fuse-by-fuse check for possible current drains. You might want to try that yourself on all fuses in the underhood electrical center (fuse box) and rear fuse panel as an independent check for possible sources of a current drain.

Note also that there are multiple input sources of 12 volt power supplied to the Roof/Door Module (RDM), so disconnecting the RDM might just mask a power drain elsewhere. You would get a more meaningful test by checking for a current draw from the RDM at the RDM fuse No. 28 in the rear fuse panel.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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More than likely it's the Door Latch Lock Module. When you close drivers door it is not shuting power off.

Common problem. Don't make them anymore but I have rebuilt Door Modules in stock. Exchange plus $50 bucks.

Look up DOOR LATCH/LOCK MODULE


When did you change Ignition switch last?? ACDelco D1426D

EVERYTHING goes thru ignition switch.

Dicktator
 

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2006 Chevrolet SSR
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks again for everyone's input. Sounds like several good theories but no consistent common thread. I gave the dealer the go-ahead to send in the module to be rebuilt today. I'll post back with results, probably will be at least a week from now.
 

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Also wish good luck, keep us posted

I am not sure who Clara is
BUT
GO CUBS 😃🥳
Hopefully some baseball this year.
Pic 1
Club 1914 when i visited my brother 2018.
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Winning ticket from world series. Alas i only bet they would win pennant 2016
Pic 3
Brother walking out to mound to throw out first pitch 2015.
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Discussion Starter #18

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Welcome, I believe Dicktator has it, had the same problem, discovered the ignition switch was not fully off and drained the battery pretty quick.
 

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I had the exact problem that you are experiencin, had my local mechanic do a electrical diagnostic test. Was told the radio was the draw. He pulled the radio fuse, PRESTO no more problem! Car starts ever time, 1 day, 5 days, 3 months.
 
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